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When Congregation Beth El needed to find a larger North Berkeley home, it didn't need to look far: a beautiful 2.2-acre parcel only blocks away would be more than suitable to house its new synagogue. There is only one problem: Codornices Creek.
When Napoleon Bonaparte Byrne bought 827 acres in the Berkeley hills 140 years ago, he and his wife Mary picked a bucolic paradise beside Codornices Creek for their home. As Mary wrote in 1860, "The spot for the building has been selected and I honestly think that a prettier or more desirable one can not be found on this side of the continent." Today the same bit of land, stretching between Spruce and Oxford streets above Live Oak Park, is nearly as bucolic as it was before the Byrnes built their elaborate Italianate villa, which fell victim to a fire in 1984. The beauty of the 2.2-acre plot is part of the problem: It turns out that many people besides the site's owners, Congregation Beth El, have a vision for its future over the next 140 years and beyond.
The Reform Jewish congregation wants to move its synagogue and school complex onto the site from its current cramped location three blocks away. Their plans, which involve constructing a massive building and a parking lot that would stretch across the creek, are opposed by an ever-expanding group that includes the majority of the neighbors, the Berkeley Architectural Heritage Association, the Sierra Club, the California Department of Fish and Game, and a host of others. That the city has put the project on a fast track to approval--even going so far as to attempt to disable its own Landmarks Preservation Commission--has kept things moving forward even as more and more voices weigh in against the project.
Part of what's interesting about this battle is the integrity and passion of the participants; nobody's a bad guy, nobody's being greedy or craven. When you sit down and listen, many of the sparring parties' visions have important elements in common. How, then, has the situation become so impossibly mired in conflict?
At first glance, what is now called 1301 Oxford Street is a rather run-down bit of paradise. On Oxford Street, a wrought-iron gate and fence front a weedy lot. A big monkey-puzzle tree, a Chilean import popular on 19th-century estates, stands alone beside the ghost of the Byrne mansion, of which no trace remains. Across the lot near Spruce Street are two sheds, the building that formerly housed the Chinese Alliance Church, and an occupied caretaker's cottage. Codornices Creek is visible from Oxford Street, gurgling twentysome feet down a nearly vertical embankment covered in blackberry brambles and ivy; the whole area is roped off with orange plastic hazard fencing. Upstream, the creek disappears into a culvert across the upper two-thirds of the property. The northern boundary follows Berryman Path between Oxford and Spruce, and, walking along the path, you can spot remnants of the community gardens that were tended here until last March. Coast live oaks and bay trees shade the walk and lean over the creek banks.
But what you really see depends on who you are. Members of Congregation Beth El see a spacious, unoccupied lot complete with mature oak trees and a potentially attractive water feature. They envision their future religious home as a welcoming structure that fits comfortably into its surroundings and offers amenities that can't be experienced at the synagogue's current Arch Street location--such as outdoor courtyards, some on-site parking, and a way to drive through the property while dropping off and picking up kids from nursery school, religious school, and summer camp. Some neighbors, when they look at the property, see "a run-down, neglected, hazardous site," and consequently welcome Beth El's proposed transformation of the lot--while other neighbors see a quiet haven graced with browsing deer; and if Beth El moves in, they envision traffic congestion, parking problems, and increased noise in the neighborhood. Other neighbors worry that a vital link with Berkeley's history could be forever erased by the temple's development.
Nothing surprising so far. After all, neighbors are apt to object to any high-density development in a residential area, and many observers have seen the Beth El controversy in exactly that light: as another NIMBY issue unusual only in that it has motivated more dissent than usual. But the fact that the creek crosses the property brings a whole other dimension to the debate. The vision for Codornices Creek is equally powerful, and it is one held by immediate neighbors, residents of the larger East Bay region, and many Beth El members themselves: their petition demanding full restoration of the creek, including daylighting the culverted portion, now has over 2,300 signatures. Though the visions of a welcoming, beautiful religious home and a restored creek are by no means mutually exclusive, the sides have drawn apart as Beth El's plans became more definite. Neighbors who once considered the project feasible--with changes--are now utterly opposed. Beth El members who care deeply about the creek find themselves having to defend the decision to put a parking lot over the culverted portion. The process of compiling the just-completed Environmental Impact Report only deepened the controversy by bringing all its adversarial aspects into sharp focus.
The real estate story starts with Napoleon Bonaparte Byrne himself, born in Missouri in 1817 and so named because his uncle served as an officer in the French general's army. In the tumultuous years leading up to the Civil War, Byrne owned a plantation in the northernmost slave state, Missouri. His second wife, Mary Augusta Tanner (wife #1 died in childbirth), had an adventurous father; when he followed the Gold Rush to California in 1849 to look for investment opportunities, his enthusiastic letters home encouraged Mary to look westward as well. The ensuing years in Missouri brought malaria outbreaks and an economic slump, both of which made the Byrnes think seriously about pulling up stakes. In 1858, "Nap" Byrne made an exploratory business trip to California--the business being a shipment of cattle he had brought there from Missouri via Mississippi River barge to New Orleans, steamship to Panama, an overland cattle drive across the isthmus, and yet another voyage up to San Francisco. Astoundingly, California's boom economy made such a transaction profitable. Byrne found the Bay Area all he had dreamed it might be; on his return to Missouri, he and Mary planned their move.
It is at this point that the known details give us our first glimpse into Nap Byrne's character. Before the move, he freed all his slaves. He also offered employment to any slave who wanted passage to California, and return passage to Missouri or anywhere else should they not wish to remain. Two of the former slaves took him up on the offer and came along on the wagon trip, thus becoming the first African-American residents of the place that would eventually be named Berkeley. Peter Enlow was 32 years old--he later changed his last name to Wilson and moved to Oakland, where he began a plastering business. The freed slave called Hannah was only eight years old at the time of the westward migration. Having no last name, she became Hannah Byrne, and since she was older than the four Byrne children, her first job in California was to help care for them.
The parcel the Byrnes bought stretched from what is now Tilden Park down to the future El Cerrito. It had been part of the land that Spain had granted to Don Luis Peralta in 1820 and was claimed by the US just ten years before the Byrnes came by wagon up the main road through the Peralta Rancho--a road that later would be named Spruce Street. The intersection of Codornices Creek and this road made a practical as well as beautiful home site, with large oaks shading the salmon-filled creek and open grassland fanning out to the bay. Early on, Mary Byrne helped sew a burial shroud for a worker killed here by a grizzly.
The family lived in a small house farther down the hill until the mansion was completed in 1868, meanwhile adding three more children for a total of seven. With its tall, colonnaded porch supporting a second-floor balcony across the entire front of the house, its elaborate arched windows and doors, and the formal symmetry of its every aspect, the eighteen-room mansion immediately became one of Berkeley's grandest and most grandiose homes. Formal gardens highlighted by three circular stone-edged beds carried the house's symmetrical motif into the surrounding landscape.
As a popular destination for parties and picnics, the Byrne estate was a great success. As a working farm, it was another story. Some of the hundreds of trees the Byrnes planted did well--Live Oak Park still has specimens that were planted at that time in a rush of arboreal enthusiasm. But Nap Byrne found that the clay soil of the Berkeley hills was beyond difficult for growing annual crops. Though Mary Byrne could see that the encroaching town would soon make their land much more valuable, Nap had his heart set on farming. "There is no doubt that we are selling our land at the wrong time," Mary wrote in 1873 as the family moved to Venice Island in the Sacramento Delta. Less than a year later, she died suddenly; a few years after that, Venice Island disappeared under a flood. Napoleon Byrne's years as a farmer were over.
He had sold the mansion and most of his property to Henry Berryman and Felix Chappellet, business partners who were developing North Berkeley. The Berryman family moved into the mansion, and the two men set about designing an infrastructure that would attract residential buyers to the plots they subdivided. They built a railroad that went from Oakland through downtown Berkeley and up to the corner of Shattuck and Vine, a stop known as Berryman Station. They laid out streets, naming many of them after family members--Milvia was Chappellet's wife, and Henry Street was named in memory of a son killed in a train wreck. Berryman founded the Berkeley Water Company, piping water from a lake that is now the location of EBMUD's Berryman Reservoir. As streets were created around it, the mansion retained a parcel that went from Spruce Street on the east to Walnut on the west; Oxford stopped north of Codornices Creek and picked up again south of the property.
Napoleon Byrne had retained a small parcel just south of the mansion, and in 1880 he built a home there and moved back with his children to what was fast becoming a town. He became Berkeley's postmaster, and after a protracted fight with post office administrators he managed to hire his son Luke, confined to a chair by multiple sclerosis, to work the counter--making Luke Byrne the first disabled person ever to be hired by the postal service. In the 1890s Nap Byrne ran a stable and coalyard at University and Oxford, until his habitual generosity in giving away coal to the elderly widows among his customers drove him out of business. When the freed slave now known as Peter Wilson tried to offer his former owner the savings from his own successful plastering business, Byrne insisted they instead mount a search for any of Wilson's surviving family members back east who might benefit by the gift of Wilson's money. Byrne died in 1905, poor but appreciated.
The Byrne mansion passed through the hands of many owners over the first fifty years of the last century, settling further into benign neglect. The creek, meanwhile, was suffering its own indignities: In 1909, upstream from the property, the creek was put into an underground culvert so houses could be built more densely east of Spruce. Soon after, the completion of Oxford Street cut the parcel down to its current 2.2-acre size. Also during the 'teens, the city of Berkeley planned to turn Berryman Path into a roadway, linking Spruce and Oxford streets mid-block, but that project met fierce opposition from citizens who presented the city with a petition declaring that they liked having a footpath and did not need a street. This was the neighborhood of the Hillside Club, after all, of such visionaries as Bernard Maybeck and Charles Keeler and their popular ideas about how neighborhoods should be linked closely to nature. The city backed down.
By the 1940s, the property was in the hands of Alice Robinson, whose family controlled much of the real estate of the Hawaiian Islands. When Robinson offered to sell the parcel--and the house, by now boarded up--to the city of Berkeley for $35,000 in 1949, a lively fight ensued. Neighbors wanted the parcel to be the start of a park that would follow Codornices Creek from the hills to the bay, but they were overruled by a City Council that considered Live Oak Park sufficient nearby open space. Robinson instead transferred the property to the People's Church of Berkeley in 1950, in an impressively binding legal document that constrained any future owner of the parcel to use it only for religious purposes in keeping with the doctrines of the Christian and Missionary Alliance, the Robinson family's pet philanthropic interest. (The succession of small churches that owned the property up until it was sold to Congregation Beth El in 1997 have all been members of the alliance.)
It only got worse from there for the boarded-up mansion and the creek. By 1952 the owner of record was the Church of the Cedars, a small congregation that decided to build its sanctuary on the southeast corner of the lot. A church member who was a contractor offered to do the work for free, and permits were acquired from the city to demolish an old pumphouse and construct a 32-by-90-foot concrete building. What happened next remains in the murky realm of hearsay, but the results are plainly visible. Across the upper two-thirds of the lot, Codornices Creek had been filled in with cement rubble, a concrete culvert, and loose soil that may have contained the remnants of the pumphouse and other debris from the building site as well as several trees that had been cut down without the congregation's permission. Apparently, filling in the creek had been the builder's idea, for the church's pastor responded with angry words, and the contractor not only resigned his membership in the congregation, but also sent the church a bill for his services. The culverted portion of the creek is still exactly as he left it.
The mansion moldered unused for decades, casting an aura of elegant decay so romantic and melancholy that even in its compromised condition it became a favorite Berkeley landmark. When the city started officially identifying historic sites, the Napoleon Byrne house and grounds became Landmark #13 on the list in 1976. In 1979 the location was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Several neighborhood groups as well as the Berkeley Architectural Heritage Association labored through the late '70s and early '80s to preserve the mansion. By this time, ownership had passed to the East Bay Chinese Alliance Church, a small congregation without the funds to consider restoration. Pastor Victor Chan agreed to let BAHA take on the project; the church would continue its ownership and would use the restored building for its Sunday school. Garage sales, spooky Halloween parties, and other fund-raising events were held at the site. A planning grant from the National Trust for Historic Preservation, followed by a Community Development Block Grant, got a shoestring renovation project going under the supervision of local builder Michael Korman. By 1984 the foundation had been repaired, a coat of stucco removed from the original wood siding, and some unfortunate later additions--a dormer and several attached outbuildings--had been removed. The first fire was in December of that year--arson, according to the fire marshal--leaving the mansion damaged but not beyond repair. A month later a second arson fire damaged the structure further.
Though no one was charged with starting either fire, gossip leaned toward a particular man who had supposedly bragged about having been responsible for another recent arson. Nobody asked him about the Byrne fires because he was arrested soon after on an especially grisly murder charge. Meanwhile, the arrangement between the Chinese Missionary Alliance Church and the restorationists had already grown testy; the sight of the charred building moved Pastor Chan to declare an end to the restoration experiment. When he applied for a demolition permit from Berkeley's Landmarks Preservation Commission, though, he found that divorce, so to speak, was not so simple. The LPC denied the permit, since the building could still conceivably be saved, and many neighbors, though in shock, wanted to try to raise the huge sums that would be required.
Pastor Chan appealed for help to the national Christian and Missionary Alliance, which hired a consultant to petition the National Register of Historic Places to delist the building. LPC maintained its stance, saying the building remained a landmark. When family heir Bruce Robinson wrote to preservation-minded neighbors to restate the constraints on the deed--that no activity could take place at the Byrne house that was not in the service of God as defined by the Alliance--even the most devoted neighbors began to lose heart. The LPC's stop on demolition could by law only last for one year. After that, the church had the remains of the mansion demolished and hauled away to become landfill.
The last decade of the century started out quietly enough for the little plot of land that had been the focus of so many dreams and so much contention. In 1992 the LPC reaffirmed its continued landmark designation for the site, saying that even without the Byrne mansion, the creek, large trees, and pastoral setting were "a reminder of the early farm days in Berkeley." When the Chinese Alliance Church applied for a modest expansion from the city planning department that year, the congregation of a hundred families was required to provide 26 off-street parking spaces but was specifically prohibited from using the northern half of the property for any development, including parking.
Two years later, landscape architect and celebrated community gardens activist Karl Linn negotiated an arrangement with the church for community gardeners to use that neglected north side. A coalition of three local groups--Spiral Gardeners, Strong Roots, and a collection of neighbors--began improving the topsoil, growing organic vegetables, and restoring native plants to the creek banks and surrounding oak grove. Neighbors gathered informally under the oaks, schoolchildren participated in native plant projects, and the church didn't have to worry about the wild north side of its property being an eyesore.
In 1996 the Chinese Alliance Church approached Congregation Beth El to see if the temple was interested in purchasing the property. From the first, Beth El members felt the deal was meant to be--for years, their location on Arch Street had been bursting at the seams, straining to accommodate the many religious, educational, and social activities of 600 families in facilities built for 250. The Chinese Alliance Church had barely inhabited its two acres while Beth El served six times as many people on a lot one-quarter the size, with a thriving nursery school for sixty, after-school religion classes for older children, evening classes for adults, Friday-evening and Saturday-morning services, a popular summer camp, and various other religious and social gatherings. Its congregation was not only large but also, on the whole, quite affluent--members felt sure they would be able to raise funds for a major building project.
And not only were Beth El members well off--they were also well-informed, well-represented in the community in many capacities, and as well-connected as any group in Berkeley could be. Developer Patrick Kennedy was a member; State Assemblymember Dion Aroner's children attended Beth El's nursery school; Susan Wengraf, Berkeley planning commissioner and aide to City Councilmember Betty Olds, was an active congregant.
Before making the decision to buy the parcel, Beth El hired a traffic consultant who reported that since the new location was in basically the same neighborhood as its current facility, there would be no significant change in traffic volume. And since the new site was large enough to accommodate both parking and a drop-off lane, it would actually improve traffic. After all, at the Arch Street location, drop-offs and pickups are accomplished by cars stopped in the street, and the site itself has only three parking spaces.
Beth El decided it would help to hear directly from the prospective neighbors, so--also before deciding to buy the land--the temple invited residents of the blocks surrounding the property to several meetings where it would present its ideas and listen to neighbors' concerns. At first, traffic and parking did seem the dominant worry, but as more neighbors heard about the possible purchase, and more of them came to subsequent meetings, concerns about the creek took precedence. Neighbors began to gather on their own to talk about what was most important to them about the site, and came up with a list of "core values" that they presented to Beth El representatives.
At the top of the list was "Cooperation--buyers, neighbors, and other affected institutions and groups should set up ways to work together to avoid or resolve problems and help each other meet their goals." This was followed by, "A green corridor should extend along Codornices Creek from Live Oak Park east through the site. This corridor, in conjunction with Berryman Path, should encourage pedestrian and bicycle travel as well as biological links for native plants and wildlife. It should remain possible to someday open up the culverted portion of the creek."
Beth El followed through with the purchase in 1997, in the process managing somehow to lift the restrictions that Alice Robinson had embedded in the deed. Nearby residents continued to meet, formalizing their group as the Live Oak Codornices Creek Neighborhood Association (LOCCNA). The community gardeners were allowed to stay until their lease agreement ran out in March 2000. At Beth El, volunteer committees were organized to shepherd the project--one for design, one for fund-raising, one for permits. The design committee settled with great enthusiasm on the prestigious Los Angeles architectural firm of Moore, Ruble, and Yudell, who designed UC Berkeley's Haas Business School and many houses at Sea Ranch. On a recent tour of the site, permits committee member Martin Dodd emphasized that a main consideration was the architects' ability to create a building that would blend into the site and balance the various needs of the congregation and the neighborhood. He's proud that the design requires no zoning variances and takes up less of the project site than is legally allowed. "I like to think that we've tried very hard to listen to what neighbors have had to say," he says. "I think we've been very responsive."
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The Present
Temple Beth El
(at Arch and Vine)
copyright 2000
Andy Kjellgren

Temple Beth El
Rabbi Ferenc Ra
copyright 2000
Andy Kjellgren

Neighbors Alan Gould and
Diane Tokugawa in front of
proposed parking area
copyright 2000
Andy Kjellgren
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