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4th
Meet El Haj. He lives on the Lanque de Barbarie - a long spit of sand that lies just across the bridge from St. Louis. El Haj, a tall, thin Pular with a boyish face that belies his 35 years, works for the Hotel Mermoz as a guide. We met him on a cruise we took to the tip of the Langue (tongue) and back. We learned a lot on that trip.
But first, our reasons for visiting St. Louis: for the past 11 years the city of St. Louis has hosted an International Jazz Festival; Montreal (where we usually go) is out of the question this year; several Peace Corps friends from Senegal and Mauritania planned to attend, and the history of the town intrigued us.
Back when the French were running West Africa - up until 1958 - St. Louis was the capital of both Senegal and Mauritania. When the two countries gained their independence, the capitals were moved to Dakar and Nouakchott respectively. Immediately upon entering the town one can discern that Dame Fortune hasn't shone her face much since. The town has a delightfully seedy, rundown appearance. Imagine running into Charles Boyer in his declining years -- white linen suit of impeccable tailoring, yet wrinkled and frayed at the cuffs. Black socks. If you look closely, you can detect where he has used a magic marker on his ankles to disguise the holes. Likewise the town gives evidence of better times. Its French Colonial architecture takes us back to New Orleans: wrought iron filigree on the balconies, mortar walls of diverse colors with complementing shutters on each window, narrow streets filled with clubs, boutiques, restaurants offering Senegalese, Moroccan, Lebanese, Vietnamese and, yes, even French cuisine. Yet, few have lifted a trowel or paintbrush to a wall, no one has applied a shovelful of blacktop to fix a pothole, for many a year. We're not complaining. The lack of care gives everything an aura of faded elegance, a painterly patina. All this may change soon. UNESCO has classified the town as a "world heritage site", so a new "old" St Louis may soon appear.
The main town is on an island situated in the middle of the Senegal River. The River ends here and winds south and east, serving as the natural border between Senegal and Mauritania, and begins over in Mali. From the mainland you cross a 1/2 mile long steel bridge that was designed by Gustav Eiffel, of Tower fame.
We stopped at the Hotel De La Poste for a drink and to get our bearings. The hotel looks like Charles Boyer would hang there at the end of his slide into decrepitude. Turns out that Jean Mermoz, a famous aviator that first flew mail from France in the '30's, stayed at the Poste during the halcyon days.
We cross a bridge on the west side of the island in order to reach the Langue de B. peninsula. Here we run into the very busy fishing settlement of Guet N'Dar. We're accosted by the overpowering smell of dead fish. As we turn down the road to our hotel we pass countless "pirogues" - fishing boats - and drying racks filled with fish. The blacktop road is so pockmarked with potholes - large enough to accommodate a Vietnamese family of five - that everyone drives alongside the road.
We reach the Hotel Mermoz, and are pleasantly surprised. It is located on a wide, sandy beach which confronts the aquamarine Atlantic…nice waves!…a swimming pool… an open-air restaurant with a multi-colored Mauritanian tent roof. Flowering bushes dot the landscape that surrounds the stucco cottages. Our room is 1/2 of a bungalow. Unfortunately the Festival rates are the highest they charge during the whole year. We paid $50./night because we insisted on air conditioning. Without AC it's $40. What were we thinking?
Each night we attended two jazz concerts at the Quai Des Arts. It's a nice venue: the hall seats probably 800. In between the 9:00 and the 11:00 shows everyone mingles in the courtyard at the other side of which is an art gallery that exhibits a mixed bag of jazz-related objets d'art.
Two of the Festival sponsors were in evidence - Evian and Red Bull. Have you ever had a Red Bull? Neither had I. I visited their stand to ask questions of two cute young ladies. " I understand there's a lot of caffeine," says I. "Not so", replies CYL#1, "only two milligrams!" I proceed to buy a can. Before I partake, I examine the label for ingredients. It says nothing about caffeine; however it does mention "taurine". "What's this 'taurine'?, asks I. Both CYLs look at each other. One attempts to stammer out an ambiguous answer. They both look with pleading eyes to a man - obviously the Red Bull representative - who appears at my elbow. He proceeds to explain sotto voce, accompanying his explanation with what I can only describe as a series of gallic eyebrow flutters. The gist of it was that taurine is derived from bull testosterone - " the stuff that bulls make baby cows with". He ends his dissertation with a lascivious smile and the comment, "After you finish this can, your wife better watch out for you tonight".
I take the can over to where Anzie is sitting with some newfound German friends. I pass the can around while explaining what I had just learned. Several bawdy comments ensued. I stopped by the booth on my way back to the concert. CYL#1: "Did you tell your wife?"
Me: "Yes … and she's very afraid."
Many giggles from the CYLs and their manager.
Funny thing, though. The Red Bull really perked me up. The concert lasted until 1:30AM. I finally had to take a sleeping pill at 3:30.
As I passed the Red Bull stand the following evening, one of the CYL's asked me if I had a good night last night. I donned a look of dismay and replied," Yes I did. Unfortunately my wife isn't here with me this evening. She's still in bed, recovering". Gales of laughter.
But, I digress. Back to the concerts. Hey, we're not talking headliners here. There were several memorable performances. The first was by a lady from South Africa - Sibongile Khumalo <purchase a CD> Her voice elicited tears of joy and a standing ovation. She sang jazz, blues and incredible scat in her native language. Another was by the Shenandoah College Jazz Band of Winchester, VA. Theirs was the big band sound of Ellington, Kenton and even Mingus with some tight, creative arrangements. Such talent in players so young!
The highlight of our trip was our cruise with El Haj. He welcomed us aboard the hotel catamaran at 9:00 AM with a demitasse of espresso. The twin-keeled, motorized cat is probably about 24 ft., and is partially covered. We took off from the hydrobase, a rather large, concrete dock which was built to accommodate Jean Mermoz and other sea-plane aviators.
During our one-hour trip to the brilliant white sand tip of Langue de B., El Haj gave us a seminar on birds. Anzie and I count ourselves fortunate to have lived so near the Plum Island Bird Sanctuary. However, we have never seen such a collection as this! Cormorants three times the size we're used to seeing on the Merrimac - with a white breast. White pelicans that weighed in at 50 lbs. - huge flocks of them! In flight they looked like B52 bombers. Flamingos - we saw a flock of 16 - white with pink wings. What's more, this isn't even the season! We have to come back during the winter.
At the tip we witnessed the violent meeting of the Senegal and the Atlantic - four ft. waves and a tremendous undertow. We watched as a 35 ft. long motorized piroque came out of the river and blasted through the waves. The bow raised 15 feet at times. It's not a job for the faint of heart.
On our return trip up river, El Haj offered us a choice of beer, wine or cocktails. Anzie and I settled for gin and tonics. We stopped for lunch on a small peninsula covered with pines. We three couples arranged ourselves on cushions around a mat which covered the pine needles. El Haj then proceeded to exceed our expectations many-fold. Our first course was smoked swordfish, assorted crudités and french bread. These were washed down with pitchers of rosé. El Haj excused himself and returned minutes later with a huge and perfectly cooked ham and mushroom omelet. This was followed by an assortment of delicious cheeses and fruits. We all, even the French, decided it was the best Brie we had ever eaten.
We all had been so enthralled with the sights during the cruise that really hadn't interacted much. With El Haj, our perfect host as catalyst together with excellent food and wine, the conversation turned lively. We were three couples - one French here on a training contract with the Institute Pasteur, one Belgian on vacation and us - with diverse and interesting backgrounds.
El Haj can be best described as a liberal Muslim. He smokes and drinks. He is quick to rationalize his drinking. Pointing to his glass of wine, "This is grape juice". He is named after his father, who actually made the Haj, or pilgrimage to Mecca. Born and raised on the Langue, he has started his own NGO to clean up and preserve the environment. He has been successful in enlisting the help of the hotels and camps. Makes sense, since their livelihood depends upon the preservation of this fragile environment. He has begun a massive educational program for the citizenry of the peninsula. Judging from the vast amount of litter in evidence, his efforts didn't start any too soon. The organization also wants to open health centers in the villages on the Langue.
We spent some time exploring the peninsula and discovered hundreds of "crabes violons" - fiddler crabs - distinguished by one big claw. As we resume our cruise, El Haj offers a choice of aprés-diner cognac or calvados. He pours himself a snifter of calvados, points to it, and says, "Apple juice."
The next morning we take a walk along the beach. We have to step aside at one point to allow a herd of 25 longhorn cattle to pass. I have a fleeting thought about Stone Harbor, NJ, which doesn't allow dogs on the beach.
Further on we come upon a bunch of fisherman attempting to beach their pirogue. The boat is 35 ft. long and must weigh over a ton. It's a communal effort on the part of some 15 men to rock and pivot the boat up the beach, safe from the surf. The boat was full of fish and langoustine (lobsters without claws) ready for sale to the beachfront restaurants.
And, in conclusion may we say to all you friends who threaten to visit us, St Louis is a definite don't-miss must-see.
Á la prochaine,
Chuck and Anne
10th
Back in Dakar preparing the house for receipt of our belongings, supposed to arrive this week sometime. Hired Mr. Cisse, electrician, to make some changes in lighting. David, the tailor, custom made mosquito netting for our bed. These gentlemen are the ultimate in professionals. You call them, they're at the house in hours - not days. Their work is exceptional! David completed the job within 24 hours. He also helped us install it. The cost? I'm embarrassed to even discuss it. It is so reasonable. One of my favorite slogans, which I had printed on my business cards at Kennedy Flow Controls, was: "Cheap, Fast, Good -- Pick Two"
That was always the case in the U.S. Here you get all three!
I had the pleasure and honor to attend the Celebration of the 40th Anniversary of Peace Corps in Senegal, and the 42nd anniversary of Peace Corps. Makes me feel old. It was held at Ebbetts Field. This baseball field sits on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic. A lot of softball gets played here. The attendees included everyone from the Peace Corps - Dakar office, volunteers - current, brand new, and former; U.S. Ambassador William Roth (former Peace Corps volunteer), the third highest official from the Senegalese Govt., other U.S govt. agencies and NGO's; host families from Thies - the town in which the Peace Corps training center is located. It was a grand affair: several speeches, most with substantial meaning; a band played anthems of both countries; hors d'oeuvres and soft drinks were served afterward.
There were many highlights. Two Peace Corps volunteers (PCV's) who are finishing up their tours gave farewell speeches in native languages: Wolof and Pulaar. I had no idea what they said, but, judging from the reaction of the audience's laughter and applause, they said it well. Four brand new volunteers gave speeches in the languages of Senegal: Sereer, Mandinka, Wolof and Pulaar. I'm sure that, when their training began three months ago, these volunteers had never even heard of these languages. During the program some 30 new volunteers were sworn in and given their assignments. Talk about a diverse group: from recent college graduates in their early 20's to women in their 50's. The majority appeared to be women - probably in the range of 60%-40%.
** Read the Journal of a Current Peace Corps volunteer in Senegal **
I hear people who are associated with Peace Corps often speak of the frustrations that confront PCV's. They join the Corps intent upon making significant, macro changes to people's lives in their host country. At the end of their 2 1/2 years they may look back and wonder if the well they helped to dig, if the windbreak they helped plant, if the children to whom they taught English, were all worth it. Gary Engleberg, a Peace Corps Volunteer in the late 60's, never left Senegal. He spoke about the experience of a fellow volunteer, Meghan. After Meghan's tour was complete she returned to Ohio, married and had a child. Unfortunately Meghan died of cancer while still in her 30's. Her daughter was only 9 years old at the time.
When the daughter completed college, she decided to fulfill a dream. She wanted to visit that little village in Senegal that her mother had spoken of so often. When she arrived, the whole village turned out to meet her. She met one lady who produced a yellowed copy of an invitation to her mother's wedding. Another lady introduced her daughter, Meghan, named after her mother. She met other villagers who shared fond memories of things her mother said or did.
Meghan's daughter collected a few pebbles from the ground just before she left. When she arrived back home, she went to the cemetery. She placed the pebbles on her mother's grave.
I guess it's important to realize that the Peace Corps experience changes the lives of the volunteers, as well as those of the people they work with. From the story of Meghan we can also see that, from seemingly small actions, ripples are created that keep undulating through generations.
A la prochaine,
Chuck
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Hi everyone. Even though today is Monday - I'm home - it's a holiday. The fifth in 6 weeks - you gotta love this country! Today is, are you ready, Pentecost! Seems it's a big French Catholic holiday, but.....Well there are people everywhere speaking in foreign tongues, but they're Wolof, Sereer, Pulaar, French, etc. So while Chuck is out playing golf, I thought I'd take some time and write. He's our lyrical travel writer, I'll do the newsy day-by-day.
Several big new things for us. We had DSL installed Friday and tomorrow the Internet account will be set up. We probably could have done both on Friday, but I'd only set up the account on Thursday, and who would have ever guessed that the technicians would be here the next morning to set up the line and computer!! I had a couple of doctor's appointments so we missed the people.
I had a routine mammogram with a Senegalese doctor at his small clinic. He seemed very nice - did all the films and a sonogram himself - and he is recommended by our PC regional doctor - a woman. However the embassy doctor was not as positive. She is coming here from India and says the level of care is much inferior. Not because people aren't trained well, but because (I found this interesting) she said Senegal doesn't have a large enough middle class to support the costs of testing like mammography, CAT scans, bone scans etc. Yes, the machines exist at the major hospitals, but she questions their state of repair and maintenance. I brought my films from last year and will send both sets home for my breast surgeon to read.
My second appointment was with a dentist. While in Mauritania a part of a tooth chipped off, it didn't hurt but I knew it had to get repaired. I had heard that there are several excellent dentists here (and the embassy doctor agrees here), but I was still so pleasantly surprised. Dr. Khalil is originally from Lebanon but came here with his family when he was 4 years old. He has studied in both France and Nigeria. Such a nice man. His office was modern and bright with all the latest equipment. He repaired my tooth using the exact same procedure and equipment as Dr Tsao at home. And I know - it's the third such repair in a year!! Every time I travel, a tooth chips - it's a bitch being so old!
The rest of the weekend was great. On Friday night we went to a dinner party at the home of the regional HR director for PLAN International. A year ago April, I was here and facilitated the creation of a grass roots training manual with PLAN staff from 9 different West African countries. This week they did a review of the design and a re-write by staff who are pilot testing the manual. So the dinner had old friends from Ghana, Togo, Burkina Faso, Benin and Senegal. Ettie, the HR Director is from Liberia, so we were the only toubabs (whites). The food was great and we all danced a lot! Last year I had taught them the 7 Habits and all were very intrigued to meet Chuck, since they had heard so much about him through my training stories. They all agreed that not only is he a great guy, but that for a white man he really knows how to dance!
Saturday morning we braved Dakar traffic (only the third time Chuck had driven downtown) to buy some glass shelves for a china cabinet here at the house. I had put in a request a couple of weeks ago at the office - but things don't move terribly quickly there. Therefore, I've learned how to beat the system. Apply for the repair or purchase, get it approved, then go out and by the stuff ourselves (or hire someone for the work) and then get reimbursed. It is a little effort on our part, but it's 5 times faster! So, we found Senegal Mirroire in a crazy busy commercial section of Dakar and ordered and had cut and walked away with the shelves in about 1/2 hour. Much faster than American government bureaucracy - and more fun as an adventure also.
Then on the way home, we stopped to see an outdoor photo exhibit we had heard about. WOW! The government has built, probably with outside assistance money, a huge Olympic swimming complex. I think it was built for some Pan-African games. Anyway it covers probably 2 blocks and is surrounded by a high wall. On a large section of this wall, facing the street, is a public exhibit of about 50 blown-up photos (maybe 8' x 6'), all with accompanying text. The title of the show is, "The earth seen from the sky" "La terre vu du ciel". The photos are both beautiful and amazing, covering natural and man-made landscapes from around the world, all from the air - some very high, some maybe only a 100 feet high. The lagoons of Bora-Bora, a city in the Philippines partially covered by lava, the Nile Delta, herds of wild animals on the savanna in Kenya - man-made cliff dwellings from Mail, hundreds of brightly colored cases at a bottling plant in Germany, an amazing huge primitive (100 BC) stone outline of a running horse in a field of green in England, even a cool picture of the green mowing patterns of Yankee stadium with a player silhouetted. It is funded by the UNESCO and AIR France among others and the photographer is Yann Arthus-Bertrand. Our cook, Amadou was with us since we needed his guidance to get down to the glass place. At first he just wanted to stay in the car, but we insisted that he come look and he was absolutely enchanted by it! He told us yesterday, that he went back the next day (Sunday - his day off) to see them all again. We are going back some night (the show is on until the end of June), because we are told it is magical then. After dark, a spotlight lights each photo. I tell you, it beats any museum I've seen in a while!
** Available Books by Yann Arthus-Bertrand **
That night, Saturday, we went to another party. Thomas the Assistant PC Director (APCD) for small enterprise invited the whole staff to a party at his house. Thomas is about 35, was volunteer in Mali, and has been here 2 years already. His mother is French so his French is beautiful and he's a cool guy. In fact, that is who Chuck is playing golf with now, along with a consultant passing through town. We also went to St. Louis with Thomas - some of his volunteers had organized villagers to bring their crafts to sell at the festival market.
Chuck and I went over before the party at about 4:30 to watched the Senegal-Gambia soccer game. It was a really big deal here since it was a qualifier for the Africa Cup. Senegal won - 3 to 1 - and qualified. They definitely out classed Gambia with their teamwork and playing skills. However, it appears that the Gambians did not take their defeat lightly. Yesterday (Sunday), I received calls from both the PC and the embassy that riots had broken out in Gambia and that Senegalese there were being attacked, and that official Americans are forbidden to travel there (and Mauritania - see below) until things calm down. I haven't heard the news today. So I don't know if it's calm yet.
The party was fun, with great food and music and dancing again. I really enjoyed the chance to spend time with some of our Senegalese staff (drivers, administrators, the electrician and the mechanic) in an informal out of work environment. They are very warm and fun people.
Yesterday, we had a great adventure exploring. We got up early and drove out to a Benedictine monastery about an hour out of Dakar, It was lovely and peaceful. They sing the mass, shifting between Gregorian chant and African music accompanied by drums, the 21 string Kora and a Balafon - an African xylophone type instrument with gourds of different sizes under the striking keys to create the different tones. The church is small, but beautifully painted with stylized African murals in red, black and white depicting scenes from the bible (with a black Jesus, Mary etc.) I'm sorry we didn't have our camera - next time. After the service we bought fresh goat cheese made by the brothers.
** Purchase CDs of their music **
Then I said to Chuck, "why don't we go and have lunch down at the beach in Saly-Portugal", since the turn off was very near where we were and it was only about 30 miles away. In reality, it only took us about an hour to get there BUT the road was terrible. You had to dodge huge holes in the tarmac and goats and cows. This is one of the two main routes south and I thought it would be in better shape. They are re-paving parts of it - which meant we had to take long detours on dirt roads through the bush. It wouldn't have been bad at all in an SUV but we were in our new little Nissan (which is a 1990) which desperately needs shocks and new steering rods. Had we known the route was so rough, we wouldn't have attempted it until we'd done repairs. Needless to say, it was not a relaxing drive for Chuck. But our destination turned out to be gorgeous. Saly-Portugal and Mbour are a seaside village and town, respectively. There are lots of lovely hotels, all-inclusives that draw French and European tourists to Senegal. There are also lots of apartment and condo complexes being built. When the road is good and without a lot of traffic, it is only about 1 1/2 hours from Dakar and many people here are buying weekend and vacation places there.
We had lunch at one of the hotels at a beachside restaurant. I looked at the beautiful beach and ocean, Chuck looked at the bare-breasted French tourists! We had a great lunch of HUGE grilled shrimps called Gambas. Then we walked along the beach - the water was about 75 degrees!! The hotels have weekend specials of $50 person per night with three meals included. When my travel slows down, we'll definitely go down for a weekend. The trip home only took an amazing 1 1/4 hours. We were bushed when we got home, and since it was the cook's night off, we had a pizza delivered for dinner, which we ate outside in our garden among the flowers. Oh, we also had some great red wine that Chuck bought right near us at a - are you ready? - Hungarian Bed and Breakfast that sells wine. The wine was Hungarian and cost about $6. I think we are going to buy a case!
The one bad thing that happened over the weekend was an attempted coup in Nouakchott, Mauritania. Some Islamist army officers and troops are angry that the government appears to be leaning more and more towards the West (Mauritania has recognized Israel). I don't know if there were any casualties, and the government was not toppled. But there were tanks and shooting at the Presidential palace. We called our friends and all are safe.
Well, I hope this hasn't been too long or boring. We are obviously having a wonderful time. I can't wait until our sea freight is delivered this week and we get finally settled. We send our love to all of you, and as always hope you will come and visit this wonderful place.
Love - Anne
17th
I have in mind a new video game that should really sell. We'll call it " Dakar Taxi". The challenges that confront the player won't be out of somebody's fantasy. They'll be the real ones that I've seen here in Dakar -- like:
· The black and yellow taxis that decide to turn a narrow two-lane road into a three-lane. They either come right at you and expect you to pull off the road, or else they pull out to pass you and veer into you when the oncoming lane doesn't give way.
· One rule here is supposed to be " Priority to the Right". Any car coming off a road to your right is supposed to have right of way. It just doesn't work that way in reality. In the real world of Dakar, the rule seems to be " Priority to the Biggest Car" or else "Priority to the Driver with the Biggest Balls".
· The "Car Rapides", those jitney buses with seats for 25 plus ten guys hanging off the back end. They pull out from the side of the road without so much as a glance behind them.
· Horse-drawn carts. These carts consist of 4 X 6 ft. platforms mounted on rubber tires. You take your life in your hands when you try to pass one.
· The "vendeurs" - the peddlers who create a traffic hazard at every stoplight as they try to sell you everything from toothpicks to watches to a tail light for a 1986 Peugeot (I'm not kidding!)
· Potholes on the paved roads that could house a family of five.
· Boulders and crevasses on the unpaved roads, of which there are many.
· Sand. The other day I got stuck in the middle of an unpaved road. Luckily I was able to rock my way out of the soft sand.
· Live animals: goats, cows, donkeys. Don't trust that donkey who's placidly munching grass alongside the road. As soon as you come up even with him, he'll bolt right out in front of you.
· Dead animals. We came across two dead camels in Mauritania.
· Speed bumps ranging in size from " What was that?" to " Holey Moley, I think we left our rear axle back there!" A speed bump is known here as "gendarme couché", which translates: " sleeping policeman".
· Praying Muslims. Friday is the " Sabbath Day", if you will. Muslim men attend services at the mosque. If the mosque is full, the faithful will spill out onto the street. On our way home from Anne's office last Friday afternoon we came upon a huge traffic jam. Enough cars ahead of us began to turn around and head the other way so that we could see what the problem was. The street was filled with dozens of men kneeling on their prayer rugs. We were forced to either wait for the prayers to end or else back down the street and head in another direction. We chose the latter.
My problem is developing a scoring system. I could use some help here.
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Meet Fatou McPhee. Hers is an interesting story.
Fatou is married to Don McPhee, a Canadian, who is the Regional Director of Plan International, formerly known as Foster Parent Plan. A year ago last April Don hired Anzie to conduct leadership training in Dakar for Plan country directors from all over West Africa. Since we moved here, we have become fast friends.
Fatou is a Puhl - one of the major tribes. This fact does not define her, of course. She is a petite, attractive woman with a high, soft voice that belies her talents as a smart, successful businesswoman. Born in Algeria she spent her first ten years as a nomad, wandering the Sahara with her clan of herdsmen. " It was a wonderful life!" says she, emphatically. In her eleventh year her family decided the she should get an education. So they sent her to live with an aunt in the Ivory Coast. She loved learning and excelled at it. She has a photographic memory. She completed her baccalaureate (the all-important final high school exam in France and all of her former colonies) at age 16!
Fatou continued her education and obtained more than one advanced degree. She worked for the Government in the Ivory Coast, the World Bank and other international organizations, often as a consultant.
Then she met and fell in love with Pierre Bollinger, heir to the Bollinger champagne fortune. They moved to Paris and proceeded to have three children. Pierre never did give up his playboy life. After ten years they divorced.
Somehow, Pierre left Fatou with very little money. So she had to build her professional life all over again. She worked for a commercial bank and became a successful manager.
About nine years ago she met Don. They fell in love, married, and moved to China where Don worked for Plan International. Fatou entered the banking business there, and again became a successful manager.
They moved to Dakar about I -1/2 years ago. Fatou, obviously not one to sit at home watching the soaps and eating bon-bons, is back in business. She acquired a super market, which she is co-managing with her daughter. She has also started a consulting firm. Recently a new bank, which is headquartered in Benin with branches in other African countries and a total of 2000 employees, has asked her to assist them in developing a Dept. of Human Resources. I feel honored that she has asked me to assist her in this endeavor.
Oops, gotta go. The man from the local freight company who's supposedly handling the shipment of our household goods called. He wants to know why our stuff is slated to ship to Cameroon.
A la prochaine,
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