
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic Acid is derived from fruit sugar acids. It is a member of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family. Some of the more well known are citric acid from citrus fruit, lactic acid from milk, and tartaric acid from wine. In times past women have used a variety of AHA's to smooth and soften the skin. Cleopatra's legendary smooth and beautiful skin is thought to have been attributed to her penchant for milk baths. Camel milk perhaps?
Is Glycolic Acid safe?
Yes. It is a 100% non-toxic substance which does not enter the blood stream. It has F.D.A. approval in smaller concentrations for the general public. No prescription is needed as it is not considered a drug. Glycolic products can safely be used in the sun. There are no undesirable side-effects when used as directed.
How exactly does Glycolic Acid work?
Glycolic Acid dissolves a glue-like substance in the stratum corneum (the upper layer of the skin). This dissolving causes already dead skin cells to slough off the surface more quickly than usual. This increase in cell turnover, researchers have discovered, stimulates the skin to increase collagen production thus smoothing wrinkles as well as improving the overall strength and integrity of the tissue.
As skin ages the release of old skin cells slows down dramatically and the stratum corneum becomes thick because the "glue" binds too tightly. The skin can appear dry, scaly and exhibit so called age spots. With the release of these older dried cells, the skin begins to look and feel soft and silky. Pore size is reduced, and the overall color and health of the skin is improved due to the increased circulation.
In cases of acne, since the use of Glycolic Acid reduces hyper keratosis (buildup of dead cells), this acid penetrates the follicular orifice opening up and draining pustular acne. By keeping cell buildup to a minimum the acne condition begins to diminish. Acne scarring is also found to be reduced.
Hyperpigmentation ("age spots") are lightened by the accelerated release of pigmented surface cells. The addition of Hydroquinon, a safe anti-pigment agent accelerates the lightening of uneven skin tone. A sun block is essential to prevent re-pigmentation. Many age spots that appear on the face, hands, and arms are benign simple keratoses. Glycolic products are excellent in reducing some of these superficial lesions by breaking the thickened stratum corneum and thus preventing trouble before it begins.
What will happen if I stop using the Glycolic products?
Retin-A users once feared that the skin would instantly age when the drug was discontinued. This does not happen. If you discontinue using Glycolic products the skin will gradually revert to its original condition and normal aging will begin again.
Should I change the rest of my skin care program?
No, not really. You will probably want to use a more gentle cleanser. A Ph balanced liquid type is best. Bar soaps tends to be too harsh as well as overly drying. You will find your current products more effective as they are able to penetrate better with the elimination of compacted surface cells.
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Mary Ann Fasano | |