INDEX OF CHARTS FOR MEDIEVAL MIDDLE EASTERN COUNTED-THREAD EMBROIDERY




DOUBLE-RUNNING STITCH PATTERNS

PATTERN DARNING

CROSS STITCH PATTERNS




DOUBLE-RUNNING STITCH PATTERNS:

NOTE: Several techniques such as cutwork, openwork, pattern-darning, and various filling stitches are often included as part of these double-running stitch embroideries, and in most such pieces I have attempted to give some idea of the location and appearance of the supplemental embroidery, but due to the limitations in my charting software, it is only an approximation.

  1. link to chart Two narrow bands from a doll’s robe
    Tissus d’Égypte, p. 294-295.

  2. link to chart Narrow band with lozenge-derived patterns
    Thomas, Textiles from Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300, p. 46.

  3. link to chart Narrow band of lions
    Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 83.

  4. link to chart Double band with inscription and openwork
    Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 19.

  5. link to chart Red and blue striped band
    Otavsky and Salîm, Mittelalterliche Textilien I: Ägypten, Persien und Mesopotamien, Spanien und Nordafrika, p. 105, No. 66.

  6. link to chart Stacked bands of crosses in triangles
    Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.

  7. link to chart Zigzagging crosses
    Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 201, No. 472.

  8. link to chart Reversing crosses
    Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 20.

  9. link to chart Small bird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  10. link to chart Lebanese bird and branch pattern
    Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.

  11. link to chart Bird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  12. link to chart Border, possibly for the bird and branch pattern above
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  13. link to chart Bird and branch pattern
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 8.

  14. link to chart Bird and branch pattern with cats
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  15. link to chart Pseudo-Bird and branch pattern
    Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 86.

  16. link to chart Very wide diagonal band with bird and branch border
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 7.

  17. link to chart Garment fragment with stars in square
    Epstein, Concernynge the Excellency . . ., p. 80.

  18. link to chart Wide double band with pinwheels and diamonds
    Lamm, Some Mamlûk Embroideries, fig. 3.

  19. link to chart Trellis with border
    Tissus d’Égypte, No. 186, p. 289-291.

  20. link to chart Wide star and lozenge band with cut and drawn thread work
    Ioannou-Yannara, Greek Threadwork: Lace.

  21. link to chart Band with flowers in octagons
    Atil, Renaissance of Islam, #123.

  22. link to chart Circles set in a grid
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.414.

  23. link to chart Stripes of vines and leaves
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.419.

  24. link to chart Grid of lozenges
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.418.

  25. link to chart S-stripes with border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.417.

  26. link to chart Central zig-zag pattern from a lid cover
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.422.

  27. link to chart Alternating stars and inscription with drawnwork
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.427.a.

  28. link to chart Lozenge and diagonal band with drawnwork and pattern darning
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.436.

  29. link to chart Large octagons with pattern darning
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.430.

  30. link to chart Stars and border, with pattern darning
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.415.

  31. link to chart Band with star in square
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.431.

  32. link to chart Four narrow patterns from a sampler
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.493.

  33. link to chart Narrow band with drawnwork
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.435.

  34. link to chart Squares with filling
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.398.

  35. link to chart Check pattern
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.450.

  36. link to chart Band of stars with turquoise filling
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.468.

  37. link to chart Band with diagonals
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.423.

  38. link to chart Pseudo-inscription border
    The Royal Ontario Museum, Accession number ????.

  39. link to chart Stars in hexagons
    The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Accession number 48.1055.

  40. link to chart Rosettes in diamonds
    The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Accession number 48.1077a-b.

  41. link to chart Narrow scrolling band
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.516.



PATTERN DARNING:

Patterns from a sampler in Baker, Islamic Textiles, p. 75

Patterns from a sampler in Humphrey, Fitzwilliam Museum Handbooks: Samplers, p. 13

Patterns from a sampler in Rhodes, The Batsford Book of Canvas Work, p. 61





CROSS STITCH PATTERNS:

  1. link to chartTiraz inscription
    Kelsey Museum.
    Tiraz inscription
    Red silk on linen. Reported as cross stitch, but appears to be Greek stitch, with additional single stitches.
    Kelsey Museum, KM 26741, Egypt, Abbasid period (10th century)

  2. link to chartBlue and black bands
    Errera, Isabelle. Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, #359 (p. 155).
    Fragment with five bands of embroidery. Blue and black silk on linen. Cross stitch.
    Egypt (9th to 11th centuries?)

  3. link to chartTunic fragment
    Merlange, Germaine. Catalog of the Elsberg Collection of Egypto-Arabic Embroideries of the Mediaeval Period, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, Vol. 12, No. 1 (1928), #15 (p. 28).
    Red and green silk on linen. Cross stitch. Square outlines are in Greek stitch.
    Elsberg Collection. Egypt, late Fatimid or early Ayubid period (12th-13th century)

  4. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with diagonal pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
    Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  5. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with square pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
    Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  6. link to chartTunic bodice and sleeves
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-35 D (p. 67).
    Red and brown silk on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  7. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with rosette pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
    Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  8. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with cross pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
    Brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  9. link to chartCruciform rosette
    Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 A (p. 78-80)
    Embroidery in red on cotton. Appears to be Greek stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  10. link to chartFleur-de-lys band
    Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 E (p. 78-80)
    Embroidery in red and brown on cotton. Appears to be cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  11. link to chartSampler fragment.
    Ellis 35 (p.53)
    Blue, yellow and green silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    It is not apparent from the single repeat of the motif worked in green, but when spaced properly, this is a popular counterchange pattern.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.502, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century, radiocarbon date 1285±40)

  12. link to chartScarf or girdle.
    Ellis 36 (p.54)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch. The linen is not even close to an even-weave
    Same counterchanging foliate pattern as the sampler, worked in S-direction in one band, and Z in the other.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.152, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)

  13. link to chartFragment.
    Ellis 37 (p.55)
    Red and blue silk on linen. Greek stitch, with some cross stitch in the border.
    Third variation of the counterchanging foliate pattern above, alternating red and blue.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.340, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)

  14. link to chartSampler fragment.
    Hoskins 19 (p.224)
    Unknown, possibly black or brown, and red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)

  15. link to chartSampler fragment.
    Hoskins 20 (p.224-5)
    Red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)

  16. link to chart Zigzag band with fleurs-de-lys.
    Ellis 38 (p.56)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.156, Egypt, Mamluk period (14th century)

  17. link to chartLotus bud band
    Ellis 39 (p.57)
    Red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.153, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)

  18. link to chartEight-pointed star in octagon in square.
    Ellis 55 (p.82-3)
    Blue, red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch and spaced cross stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.357, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)

  19. link to chartFleur-de-lys band with border.
    Lamm, fig. 6 (p. 67)
    Red, blue and cream silk on linen. Main band in plait stitch, borders in cross stitch.
    This border uses a fourth variation of the immensely popular counterchanging foliate pattern.
    Egypt, Mamluk period (15th-early 16th century)






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