INDEX OF CHARTS FOR MEDIEVAL MIDDLE EASTERN COUNTED-THREAD EMBROIDERY




DOUBLE-RUNNING STITCH PATTERNS

PATTERN DARNING

CROSS STITCH PATTERNS




DOUBLE-RUNNING STITCH PATTERNS:

  1. link to chartTwo narrow bands from a doll’s robe
    Tissus d’Égypte, p. 294-295.

  2. link to chartNarrow band with lozenge-derived patterns
    Thomas, Textiles from Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300, p. 46.

  3. link to chartNarrow band of lions
    Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 83.

  4. link to chartDouble band with inscription and openwork
    Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 19.

  5. link to chartRed and blue striped band
    Otavsky and Salîm, Mittelalterliche Textilien I: Ägypten, Persien und Mesopotamien, Spanien und Nordafrika, p. 105, No. 66.

  6. link to chartStacked bands of crosses in triangles
    Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.

  7. link to chartZigzagging crosses
    Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 201, No. 472.

  8. link to chartReversing crosses
    Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 20.

  9. link to chartSmall bird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  10. link to chartLebanese bird and branch pattern
    Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.

  11. link to chartBird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  12. link to chartBorder, possibly for the bird and branch pattern above
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  13. link to chartBird and branch pattern
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 8.

  14. link to chartBird and branch pattern with cats
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.

  15. link to chartPseudo-Bird and branch pattern
    Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 86.

  16. link to chartVery wide diagonal band with bird and branch border
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 7.

  17. link to chartGarment fragment with stars in square
    Epstein, Concernynge the Excellency . . ., p. 80.

  18. link to chartWide double band with pinwheels and diamonds
    Lamm, Some Mamlûk Embroideries, fig. 3.

  19. link to chartTrellis with border
    Tissus d’Égypte, No. 186, p. 289-291.

  20. link to chartWide star and lozenge band with cut and drawn thread work
    Ioannou-Yannara, Greek Threadwork: Lace.

  21. link to chartBand with flowers in octagons
    Atil, Renaissance of Islam, #123.



PATTERN DARNING:

Patterns from a sampler in Baker, Islamic Textiles, p. 75

Patterns from a sampler in Humphrey, Fitzwilliam Museum Handbooks: Samplers, p. 13

Patterns from a sampler in Rhodes, The Batsford Book of Canvas Work, p. 61



CROSS STITCH PATTERNS:

  1. link to chartTiraz inscription
    Kelsey Museum.
    Tiraz inscription
    Red silk on linen. Reported as cross stitch, but appears to be Greek stitch, with additional single stitches.
    Kelsey Museum, KM 26741, Egypt, Abbasid period (10th century)

  2. link to chartBlue and black bands
    Errera, Isabelle. Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, #359 (p. 155).
    Fragment with five bands of embroidery. Blue and black silk on linen. Cross stitch.
    Egypt (9th to 11th centuries?)

  3. link to chartTunic fragment
    Merlange, Germaine. Catalog of the Elsberg Collection of Egypto-Arabic Embroideries of the Mediaeval Period, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, Vol. 12, No. 1 (1928), #15 (p. 28).
    Red and green silk on linen. Cross stitch. Square outlines are in Greek stitch.
    Elsberg Collection. Egypt, late Fatimid or early Ayubid period (12th-13th century)

  4. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with diagonal pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
    Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  5. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with square pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
    Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  6. link to chartTunic bodice and sleeves
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-35 D (p. 67).
    Red and brown silk on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  7. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with rosette pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
    Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  8. link to chartFragment from baby’s jacket with cross pattern
    Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
    Brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  9. link to chartCruciform rosette
    Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 A (p. 78-80)
    Embroidery in red on cotton. Appears to be Greek stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  10. link to chartFleur-de-lys band
    Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 E (p. 78-80)
    Embroidery in red and brown on cotton. Appears to be cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283

  11. link to chartSampler fragment.
    Ellis 35 (p.53)
    Blue, yellow and green silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    It is not apparent from the single repeat of the motif worked in green, but when spaced properly, this is a popular counterchange pattern.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.502, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century, radiocarbon date 1285±40)

  12. link to chartScarf or girdle.
    Ellis 36 (p.54)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch. The linen is not even close to an even-weave
    Same counterchanging foliate pattern as the sampler, worked in S-direction in one band, and Z in the other.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.152, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)

  13. link to chartFragment.
    Ellis 37 (p.55)
    Red and blue silk on linen. Greek stitch, with some cross stitch in the border.
    Third variation of the counterchanging foliate pattern above, alternating red and blue.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.340, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)

  14. link to chartSampler fragment.
    Hoskins 19 (p.224)
    Unknown, possibly black or brown, and red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)

  15. link to chartSampler fragment.
    Hoskins 20 (p.224-5)
    Red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)

  16. link to chart Zigzag band with fleurs-de-lys.
    Ellis 38 (p.56)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.156, Egypt, Mamluk period (14th century)

  17. link to chartLotus bud band
    Ellis 39 (p.57)
    Red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.153, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)

  18. link to chartEight-pointed star in octagon in square.
    Ellis 55 (p.82-3)
    Blue, red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch and spaced cross stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.357, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)

  19. link to chartFleur-de-lys band with border.
    Lamm, fig. 6 (p. 67)
    Red, blue and cream silk on linen. Main band in plait stitch, borders in cross stitch.
    This border uses a fourth variation of the immensely popular counterchanging foliate pattern.
    Egypt, Mamluk period (15th-early 16th century)






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