1. Two narrow bands from a doll’s robe
   Tissus d’Égypte, p. 294-295.
   
   
2. Narrow band with lozenge-derived patterns
   Thomas, Textiles from Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300, p. 46.
   
   
3. Narrow band of lions
   Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 83.
   
   
4. Double band with inscription and openwork
   Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 19.
   
   
5. Red and blue striped band
   Otavsky and Salîm, Mittelalterliche Textilien I: Ägypten, Persien und Mesopotamien, Spanien und Nordafrika, p. 105, No. 66.
   
   
6. Stacked bands of crosses in triangles
   Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.
   
   
7. Zigzagging crosses
   Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 201, No. 472.
   
   
8. Reversing crosses
   Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 20.
   
   
9. Small bird and branch pattern
   Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
   
   
10. Lebanese bird and branch pattern
    Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.
    
    
11. Bird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    
    
12. Border, possibly for the bird and branch pattern above
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    
    
13. Bird and branch pattern
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 8.
    
    
14. Bird and branch pattern with cats
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    
    
15. Pseudo-Bird and branch pattern
    Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 86.
    
    
16. Very wide diagonal band with bird and branch border
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 7.
    
    
17. Garment fragment with stars in square
    Epstein, Concernynge the Excellency . . ., p. 80.
    
    
18. Wide double band with pinwheels and diamonds
    Lamm, Some Mamlûk Embroideries, fig. 3.
    
    
19. Trellis with border
    Tissus d’Égypte, No. 186, p. 289-291.
    
    
20. Wide star and lozenge band with cut and drawn thread work
    Ioannou-Yannara, Greek Threadwork: Lace.
    
    
21. Band with flowers in octagons
    Atil, Renaissance of Islam, #123.
    
    

Patterns from a sampler in Baker, Islamic Textiles, p. 75

• Four Small Designs
• Large Diamond
  
  

Patterns from a sampler in Humphrey, Fitzwilliam Museum Handbooks: Samplers, p. 13

• Two Narrow Bands
• Wide Lattice
• Zigzag
• Reversing W's
• Greek Key
• Flower in Diamond
• Diamonds and Triangles
• Diamonds in Diamonds
• Small and Large S's
• Two Diagonal Bands
  
  

Patterns from a sampler in Rhodes, The Batsford Book of Canvas Work, p. 61

• Interlace
• Diamonds and S's
• Diamond Stripe
• Flower Variant A
• Flower Variant B
• Quatrefoils
• Diamond-point Zigzag
• Twists and Diamonds
• Hooked Diamonds
• Zigzagging Diamonds
  
  

1. Tiraz inscription
   Kelsey Museum.
   Tiraz inscription
   Red silk on linen. Reported as cross stitch, but appears to be Greek stitch, with additional single stitches.
   Kelsey Museum, KM 26741, Egypt, Abbasid period (10th century)
   
   
2. Blue and black bands
   Errera, Isabelle. Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, #359 (p. 155).
   Fragment with five bands of embroidery. Blue and black silk on linen. Cross stitch.
   Egypt (9th to 11th centuries?)
   
   
3. Tunic fragment
   Merlange, Germaine. Catalog of the Elsberg Collection of Egypto-Arabic Embroideries of the Mediaeval Period, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, Vol. 12, No. 1 (1928), #15 (p. 28).
   Red and green silk on linen. Cross stitch. Square outlines are in Greek stitch.
   Elsberg Collection. Egypt, late Fatimid or early Ayubid period (12th-13th century)
   
   
4. Fragment from baby’s jacket with diagonal pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
   Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
5. Fragment from baby’s jacket with square pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
   Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
6. Tunic bodice and sleeves
   Momies du Liban, Had. 90-35 D (p. 67).
   Red and brown silk on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
7. Fragment from baby’s jacket with rosette pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
   Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
8. Fragment from baby’s jacket with cross pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
   Brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
9. Cruciform rosette
   Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 A (p. 78-80)
   Embroidery in red on cotton. Appears to be Greek stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
10. Fleur-de-lys band
    Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 E (p. 78-80)
    Embroidery in red and brown on cotton. Appears to be cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
    
    
11. Sampler fragment.
    Ellis 35 (p.53)
    Blue, yellow and green silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    It is not apparent from the single repeat of the motif worked in green, but when spaced properly, this is a popular counterchange pattern.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.502, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century, radiocarbon date 1285±40)
    
    
12. Scarf or girdle.
    Ellis 36 (p.54)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch. The linen is not even close to an even-weave
    Same counterchanging foliate pattern as the sampler, worked in S-direction in one band, and Z in the other.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.152, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)
    
    
13. Fragment.
    Ellis 37 (p.55)
    Red and blue silk on linen. Greek stitch, with some cross stitch in the border.
    Third variation of the counterchanging foliate pattern above, alternating red and blue.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.340, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)
    
    
14. Sampler fragment.
    Hoskins 19 (p.224)
    Unknown, possibly black or brown, and red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)
    
    
15. Sampler fragment.
    Hoskins 20 (p.224-5)
    Red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)
    
    
16. Zigzag band with fleurs-de-lys.
    Ellis 38 (p.56)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.156, Egypt, Mamluk period (14th century)
    
    
17. Lotus bud band
    Ellis 39 (p.57)
    Red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.153, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)
    
    
18. Eight-pointed star in octagon in square.
    Ellis 55 (p.82-3)
    Blue, red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch and spaced cross stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.357, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)
    
    
19. Fleur-de-lys band with border.
    Lamm, fig. 6 (p. 67)
    Red, blue and cream silk on linen. Main band in plait stitch, borders in cross stitch.
    This border uses a fourth variation of the immensely popular counterchanging foliate pattern.
    Egypt, Mamluk period (15th-early 16th century)