Adjustable Length Rear Camber Control Arms
Warning: If you are not competent or do not feel comfortable doing any of these modifications or procedures, then please do not do so. I will not be held responsible for any damages caused by a result of your actions. Now on to the fun stuff!
These were replaced because the factory eccentric was frozen and I was about at the limit of camber adjustment at the time.
I purchased mine on ebay, but many manufacturers have them available. At almost half the cost, they were hard to beat! They have enough adjustment for me (I imagine for just about anybody!), but they are not as slick as Turner's arms. If I were doing it again, I think I'd go with those. It is a tough decision because we're talking about $100 for easier adjustment and a couple of pounds.
Here are a few comparison pictures of the arms I purchased and the factory arms.
2.) Remove the differential bolts to allow for removal of the bolt attached to the subframe. (I did it while I had the differential out to replace the output shaft seals.) You should be able to do this with the exhaust still installed, but I removed mine so I had a little more room to work. It's not all that hard really. Just 4 bolts at the cat side and 4 for the rear hangers.
3.) Support the rear suspension and remove the eccentric and the subframe side bolt. You will need to move the differential around a bit to get the subframe side bolt out.
4.) Then just drop the arm out and slip the new one in. You will want to adjust the new arm to about the same length as the factory arm. This will get it close enough to get you to an alignment shop.
5.) Reinstall the differential bolts and you are all ready to have the car aligned.
Comments: These arms do their job well enough. If this were a part I planned on changing or adjusting frequently, I would have been more concerned with the ease of adjustment. These arms make it difficult to adjust the subframe side of the arm because of the tight clearance around the exhaust. It's very difficult to loosen the jam nut near the subframe.
Ground Control and Turner remedy this quite nicely in both cases, but I did not know either arm was available at the time of purchase. Heck, I still can't find any info on the GC arms on their page. The turner arms use two sets of adjustment essentially. There is still an adjustable subframe end, but I would just use that to get things in the right ballpark. Then fine tune it with the adjuster at the trailing arm end of the bar. It's pretty slick really! The GC bars use a collar that is clamped around the threaded end of the rod. They use a similar design on the coilover perches I have seen. It's interesting, and they seem to be the only ones to do things this way.
For me it came down to cost and if they got the job done. These arms are hard to beat on those two criteria!
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