Warning: If you are not competent or do not feel comfortable doing any of these modifications or procedures, then please do not do so. I will not be held responsible for any damages caused by a result of your actions. Now on to the fun stuff!
A clutch stop limits how far the clutch can be depressed. Ever notice how there is a lot of dead movement after the clutch disengages? This will change that allowing for quicker and more precise shifting and clutch engagement and disengagement.
I created this by using a welder, so if you do not have access to one no point in continuing.
Now, you're going to want to weld the washer(s) to the head of the bolt. Make sure that you grind them down a bit to get rid of any galvanization. Once they're hooked together, fill in the holes on the top with a little more weld and grind it down smooth. Now clean it up good and try it out in the car.
Start off with it all the way screwed in, and then slowly bring it out until you get the desired amount of pedal movement. Then clean it up good with soap and water. Let it dry well and then cover the top with Plasti-Dip. Make sure you move slowly when dipping it or else you'll get poor coverage and bubbles.
Update [04.17.02]: Here is a promised picture of the Clutch Stop in place.
Update [09.21.03]: After installing the ltw flywheel, I needed a longer clutch stop. So, I headed to the store and purchased a longer bolt along with a washer that was smaller than the head of the bolt. Ground down the head a bit to fit and welded it in. My can of plasti-dip was hard as a rock, so I took a piece of rubber I had and secured it to the top of the clutch stop. I like it much better as far as feel because it has a nice soft stopping action with no noise. The plasti-dip cover stop made a slight noise when the pedal contacted it. It just doesn't look quite as slick as the plasti-dip covered stop. Maybe I'll try and find some black plasti-dip and cover the rubber and the washer. That would look nice.
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