Text Box: SACA, NW Newsletter
Steam Automobile Club of America, Northwest Chapter
Vol. 19 No. 4  Winter 2006


SACANW Chapter Officers: 

President: Eric Gleason 704 Case Street, The Dalles, Oregon, 97058 email: gleason@netcnct.net  Secretary/Treasurer/Editor:  Pat Farrell, 6647 Bridgewater Lane, Sedro Woolley, WA 98284 360-856-1294 e-mail rpfarrell@wavecable.com

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The NW Chapter of SACA newsletter is sent out the first week of each season of the year.  Cost of our hardcopy newsletter is $5 a year.  Cyberspace delivery is free to NW region SACA members.

Our mission is to perpetuate the use of the steam automobile and to share information pertaining to them.

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Events:

 

March 5-9, 2007

Third Down under International Steam Car Tour

          Enjoy touring in Australia’s autumn climate. The tour will be based at the lovely rural river Murray boarder town of Echuda, (meeting of the waters), north of Melbourne.  Contact Susan May at psmay@optusnet.com.au or by mail at 8 Roberts street, Esssendon Victoria 3040 Australia Telephone  61 3 93372268

 

June 17-22, 2007

Eastern Steam Car Tour

Wilmington, Delaware.  Sponsored by the Friends of Auburn Heights Preserve.  For more information, visit www.auburnheights.org  or call (302)239-2385

 

June 30 - Open House at Gordon Sullivan's, Custer, Washington. This is a NWSS event

The first steam event was such a success that a second is planned. More details will follow. Contact: Gordon Sullivan, telephone: 360-366-3171, email: sullivan@premier1.net

 

July or August, 2007  SACA/NW annual business meeting and Steam Clinic

Two day event o be held at Pat and Merrily Farrell’s Unique  Museum in Sedro-Woolley, WA.  As to not to conflict with other events, the date will be announced later.  Telephone 360-856-1294

 

August 10 through 12 - NWSS Annual Meet, Seattle, Washington.

To be held at the Center for Wooden Boats on the south end of Lake Union. Contact person is Dan Lyons, telephone: 206-546-2970, email: danlyons1@verizon.net

 

2008:

Invitational Steam Car Tour, Auburn, Grass Valley, CA.:

State Hwy 500 freeway and N.E. Thurston Way interchange.

Christopher Roberts reports:   I will be hosting an Invitational Steam Car Tour in the Auburn, Grass Valley area in
California in 2008. I don't have any dates as of yet, but I should have invitations going out in June/ July of 2007. I am going to try to put on a 4 day tour Thursday through Sunday. Another possibility is at Shingle Springs, Ca.
My Cell Phone # is 916-708-6356.   The shop number is 1-800-543-6566.  Christopher W. Roberts

 

 Message From: "Myles Twete" Say, I just updated the SACA/NW web pages...still more to do, but did improve the links and added most of the newsletters to the site, including the latest newsletter and photos. If you have any input, suggestions or additions, let me know, I'll add them----e.g. maybe you don't want your contact info right there at the top...?   I'll also try to get SACA and other sites to be sure their links to us work. Right now, I know the NWSS site links to ours fine. Check it out...:
http://home.comcast.net/~matwete/nwsaca/SACANW.html   -Myles

 

September 14-16th, 2005  Berrien Springs Steam Meet, Symposium and 9th Annual Great Lakes Steam Vehicle Time Trials, Berrien Springs. South Haven, Michigan.

By Myles Twete

This was a fun meet, workshop, time trials and symposium.  I had not been to a SACA annual meet before, but found I had no excuse this year…just had to go.

For me it was a whirlwind tour as I flew out from Portland, OR. on the red-eye Friday A.M. arriving in Chicago at 5am.

Rental car in hand, it was about a 3hr drive to Berrien Springs, where I arrived at the fairgrounds in time to catch the days’ symposium lectures at the fairgrounds.  Great information was shared.  Later, we toured Tom Kimmel’s shop and his steam collection, then finally, on to the time trials.

Richard Moore’s Locomobile nearly took 1st place in the time trials as Chuk’s dragster was effectively running on only 1 cylinder and only reached 17seconds in the 1/8th mile…just 3 secs faster than the Loco.  Several racers did the time trials including Chuk Williams driving both the 40HP dragster and his “T-model”, Tom Kimmel driving his Strath Steam powered steam dune buggy rail, Dick Moore and his 1899 Loco and Tony Grzyb and his steam bicycle.  It was a lot of fun.

 

Time trial winners were awarded trophies and cash prizes as well as sponsorships for steam vehicles which made it to the start line

 

Steamers for sale:

 

1899 Locomobile, museum quality, $40,000.  telephone 360-658-6581 email Mike.Donna@McGinnis.net Mike McGinnis 7512-76th Drive NE Marysville, WA

 

1900 Locomobile type 2, nice, Jim McCall, telephone 509-232-0309 email mcall@reiffmolding.com, 1905 S. Marcus Ct., Veradale, WA99037

 

1900 Locomobile Locosurrey. The body came from Carl Amsley. Its a Locomobile/Stanley carriage type, very nice. Unusual running gear but nicely done.  Some assembly required. He has the engine and boiler also some other parts. He also has the seat.  He is asking $20K but will take an offer. He is hard to get a hold of but you can leave a message at the following two # Bill Cooke 55 Prospect Street North Brookfield MA 015351,  508-867-7864 MA & VT 802-253-3092 bacooke@pshift.net

 

1909 Stanley model R, 4 passenger 20 hp.  Needs assembly. $127,500, Sue Davis, Kingfield Maine,.

 

1909 Stanley Model R, 4 passenger, Running condition, $175K, Jerry Farnsworth, Fayetteville, Ny

 

1910 Stanley model 61, 4 passenger touring, exceptionally original, $120K, Chris Figge, Westerville, Ohio

 

1914 Stanley Model 607, 4 passenger 10 hp touring, new restoration, $140K, Bill Roberts, Bainbridge, Island, WA

 

1922 Stanley 740B, Good restorable car in Texas,  Donald Hoke,  email donhoke@comcast.net 

 

1922 Stanley model 735 7 passenger sedan. Equipped with  26” 30 hp boiler.  Fully restored. $59,000.  Contact Herman Bayendorffer tel.: 772-595-3678 or 207-997-3625 (after June 1). email: hermanb@numberall.com

 

 

Stanley steamer 735 rolling chassis, good condition.  Engine runs on air, includes frame, engine, differential, good wheels, front end, pumps, and drives, etc, assembled, $12,500. Dave, 530-200-2576 CA

 

Auction results in Hemmings Motor News:  1907 Stanley model F #2 condition.  If you blinked, you missed the Stanley’s turn across the block.  When no one was willing to make an opening bid of $60,000, the car was declared no sale, and the auction went on.  This was evidently an older restoration, with some cracks beginning to show in the paint work and a good bit of patina to the leather upholstery.  The first question is to ask with a car like this whether it has been stationary for decades in a museum; if so, a good bit of work by an expert will be needed to restore it to running condition.

 

 

For Sale:  Steam Power Quarterly” and “Light Steam Power” back issues.  $5 each plus postage.    Contact editor Pat Farrell with your needs. 360-856-1294 or email rpfarrell@wavecable.com

 

Jim Keith writes:  If you like this water pump packing as much as I think you will, I suggest you order a similar material: DARCOID Co. Style #921 0.125” Telephone 616 931-5900 Hicksville, N.Y.  This is more heavily saturated with beeswax which will in it’s beginning use sometimes imbed itself on ball checks and or seats.  It is therefore suggested that you use another harder packing ring at each end of the packing space to wipe pistons and keep excess beeswax away from checks.  Maybe, too, you would be able to scrape the excess beeswax off that packing before installation?   Never over tighten this product.  Sometimes pumps will leak a little at the beginning of a run, but after a little run in time, packing may swell enough to limit same.  Remember a small amount of leaking is desired.  Best, Jim.



 

 Brake Lining  By Pat Farrell

 

            60% of the stopping power on a vehicle equipped with four wheel brakes comes from the front axle.  That leaves a car equipped with only two wheel brakes, having only 40% of the stopping power of a car with 4 wheel brakes.  If your brake lining is wet, worn out, oil soaked, or just out of adjustment, your braking ability just got worse.  There are a lot of jokes made about the old two wheel brakes not stopping, but when you need to stop, bad braking is no joke.

 

            There is a multitude of brake lining available for our old cars.  Each one has different properties than the other.  What is needed is an oil resistant lining with a high coefficient of friction using a low brake pedal pressure and giving us smoother controlled stops.           After having tried many different types of brake lining for our Stanley steamers, I have found one lining that has out shined all others in these requirements.  Many of the users have referred to it at the “Green Gripper”.  McMaster-Carr refers to it as their “Semi-metallic woven strips”.  This green lining can be riveted or bonded.  These Semi-metallic woven strips have brass wire woven into the material which adds strength and improves heat dissipation. It also has the highest coefficient of friction using the lowest pedal pressure required for any of their brake lining material offered.  This lining can be purchased through McMaster-Carr or through many other national hardware suppliers.  McMaster-Carr’s website is http://www.mcmaster.com/  and when there, type in “brake lining” for product search.

 

            For bonding the lining onto non-flexing brake shoes, an epoxy made by J-B Weld Company found at most auto suppliers costs about $10.00 for two kits that has enough epoxy to bond all the lining on one axle.  Personally, I have been using a commercial high temperature brake shoe bonding cement that costs much more than that.  Brake shoes that flex while in use, should have their lining riveted to the shoes.  While riveting your brake lining, never use a rivet any harder than brass to prevent brake drum damage,.

 

            In using your brakes, always apply them gently and well ahead of your impending stop.  Do not let them get over heated as the outside paint will quickly get burnt off of your brake drums, and lining damage can occur from too high of heat build up.  When possible, shift down, or in the case of the Stanley steamers, carefully use your reversing pedal to aid in your stopping.

 

“Unique Museum” Report

by Pat Farrell

            Our 5 Stanleys are bedded down for the winter with car covers carefully tucked in around them to keep them warm and dust free.  Since our Unique Museum is well insullated for even temperatures, freeze up isn’t much of a problem for the cars and the running steamers are still watered up, ready for a run at a moments notice. 

            Around our shop we are working on our 1911 Stanley model 85, 30 hp 7 passenger touring.  We are just putting the final touches to the rear axle and then the body will come into the shop for painting and having the axles fitted.   After that, we will be putting modern main bearings in it’s engine.

            The axles were built from scratch using available castings from Carl Amsley’s and Alan Kelso.  The axle shafts and gears came from a model 735 Stanley rear axle.

            We just received our new brass windshield frame from Speedway Motors in Lincoln, Nebraska.  When vintage windshields are selling for over $600 and still needing restoration, Speedway’s new brass windshield frame built to my larger specifications is a bargain at $460.

 

George Nutz writes:  Steam friends,
  Just to let you know that I just talked with Brent Campbell and he is home and recovering from his terrible accident.  The doctors consider him very fortunate that he did not require any surgery and will recover from a neck injury, broken foot and a few others within a few months.  He described the accident and it is a miracle that he escaped with his life.
  He was driving home on Interstate 95 in his 1928 Buick chopped hotrod when the left rear tire blew out(a big hotrod 30" tire) doing 70mph in the right lane when this tire blew and the car was thrust over into the left lane and then into the median---he was told the car flipped 4-5 times with him in it.  Luckily when the metal chopped roof was put on it was also braced and he also had three point seat belts in it, he was still on the car laying on its left side and they had to cut him out of it.  He has no memory of this nor his first number of days in the hospital, but his memory is very sharp and intact.  He feels so blessed that it wasn't one of his Stanleys---that is the wonderful way Brent looks upon such matters.
  So he is at home, his voice sounds quite weak and is in a physical therapy program for a few months.  He says to wish you all thanks for your concerns and that he will be at the historic Tom Marshall event in June 17th that will be the last time Tom will have it there as he has given the property over to a historical group or whatever.
  For those wanting to send him cars/he says no need to!/ his address is:
Brent G. Campbell
2465 Riverview Drive NE
Palm Bay FL 32905-2515
telephone # 321-728-1426
  I do not think he is up to a lot of calls at this time and I was very fortunate that he took the time to tell us the true story and wished it passed on to all of you.
Best to all, George Nutz

           

Stanley Museum has cancelled their June 2007 Stanley Steam Cars and Parts Consignment Auction that was going to be held in Kingfield, Maine.  It will be rescheduled for a later date in a year or so. With their new staff getting the feel of their new shoes, they are going to take a little more time before they launch an event.

 

 

Packing Installation Guide

 

The importance of packing glands correctly cannot be over-emphasized. Many packing failures are due to incorrect installation of the packing. The following steps have been devised to ensure effective installation of packings on pumps and valves.

Packing The Pump Correctly

  1. REMOVE ALL THE OLD PACKING FROM THE STUFFING BOX. Clean box and shaft thoroughly and examine shaft or sleeve for wear and scoring. Replace shaft or sleeve if wear is excessive.
  2. USE THE CORRECT CROSS-SECTION OF PACKING OR DIE-FORMED RINGS. To determine the correct packing size, measure the diameter of the shaft (inside the stuffing box area if possible) and then measure the diameter of the stuffing box (to give the OD of the ring). Subtract the ID measurement from the OD measurement and divide by two. The result is the required size.
  3. WHEN USING COIL OR SPIRAL PACKING, ALWAYS CUT THE PACKING INTO SEPERATE RINGS. Never wind a coil of packing into a stuffing box. Rings can be cut with butt (square), skive (or diagonal) joints, depending on the method used for cutting. The following illustration shows these methods of preparing bulk packing. The best way to cut packing rings is to cut them on a mandrel with them same diameter as the shaft in the stuffing box area. If there is no shaft wear, rings can be cut on the shaft outside the stuffing box.

Hold the packing tightly on the mandrel, but do not stretch excessively. Cut the ring and insert it into the stuffing box, making certain it fits the packing space properly. Each additional ring can be cut in the same manner, or the first ring can be used as a master from which the balance of the rings are cut.

If the butt cut rings are cut on a flat surface, be certain that the side of the rings, and not the OD or ID surface, is laid on the rings to be cut. This is necessary so that the end of the rings can be reproduced.

When cutting diagonal joints, use a miter board so that each successive ring can be cut at the correct angle.

It is necessary that the rings be cut to the correct size, otherwise, service life is reduced. This is where die cut rings are of great advantage, as they give you the exact size ring for the ID of the shaft and the OD of the stuffing box. There is no waste due to incorrectly cut rings.

  1. INSTALL ONE RING AT A TIME. Make sure it is clean and has not picked up any dirt in handling.

Seat rings firmly (except PTFE filament and graphite yarn packings, which should be snugged up very gently, then tightened gradually after the pump is on stream). Joints of successive rings should be staggered and kept at least 90 degrees apart. Each individual ring should be firmly seated with a tamping tool. When enough rings have been individually seated so that the nose of the gland will reach them, individual tamping should be supplemented by the gland.

  1. AFTER THE LAST RING IS INSTALLED, TAKE UP BOLTS FINGER TIGHT OR VERY SLIGHTLY SNUGGED UP. Do not jam the packing into place by excessive gland loading. Start pump, and take up bolts until leakage is decreased to a tolerable minimum. Make sure gland bolts are taken up evenly. STOPPING LEAKAGE ENTIRELY AT THIS POINT WILL CAUSE THE PACKING TO BURN UP.
  2. ALLOW PACKING TO LEAK FREELY STARTING UP A NEWLY PACKED PUMP. Excessive leakage during the first hour of operation will result in a better packing job over a longer period of time. Take up gradually on the gland as the packing seats, until leakage is reduced to a tolerable level, preferably 8-10 drops per minute per inch of shaft diameter.

*** NEVER TRY TO STOP A LEAKAGE ENTIRELY ***

  1. WHEN SPECIFIED BY THE PUMP MANUFACTURER, PROVIDE MEANS OF LUBRICATING THE PACKING THROUGH THE LANTERN RING BY SUPPLYING WATER, OIL, GREASE OR LIQUID HANDLED IN THE PUMP. Fittings for this purpose are standard on many pumps. Flush pressure should be minimum 1 bar above stuffing box pressure.

  1. IF THE STUFFING BOX HAS A LANTERN RING (SEE ILLUSTRATION ABOVE), make sure that the lantern ring, as installed is slightly behind the fluid inlet so that it will move under the inlet as follower pressure is applied.
  2. REPLACE PACKING WHEN LEAKAGE CANNOT BE CONTROLLED BY FURTHER TAKE-UP ON THE FOLLOWER GLAND. DO NOT ADD MORE PACKING RINGS.
  3. ON BOTH CENTRIFUGAL AND RECIPROCATING PUMPS, ABOUT 70% OF THE WEAR IS ON THE OUTER TWO PACKINGS NEARSEST THE GLAND. However, each additional ring does throttle some fluid pressure. On most pumps, there must be enough rings so if one fails, another does the sealing, and the pump need not be shut down.

The mechanical pressure curve above shows eight packing rings. THe first five rings do the majority of the sealing. The bottom three rings do little sealing, but are needed to fill the available space. The advantage of using fewer rings is less rod wear. Also, the stuffing box design is simpler and takes less material. But wear isn't the only problem. With high temperatures, high pressures, corrosive chemicals, or abrasive particles in the fluid, more rings may be the only solution for some services. In such cases, the bottom ring contacting the fluid may have the most wear from these severe service conditions.

Packing Valves Correctly

As with pump packing, the first step in getting the most out of a valve packing is correct installation. Here is the correct way to pack valves.

  1. CAREFULLY PERFORM ALL OPERATIONS AS LISTED UNDER PUMP PACKING STEPS 1 TO 5. Rings used on valves and expansion joints are cut with a skive joint (illustrated below). If preparing butt or skive cut (45 degree) rings, be sure that the first ring is cut carefully, and then tested on the stem.

  1. BRING THE FOLLOWER DOWN TO THE POINT WHERE HEAVY RESISTANCE TO WRENCHING IS FELT. During this time, turn the valve stem back and forth to determine ease of turning. Do not torque down to the point where the stem won't turn.
  2. STROKE THE VALVE SEVERAL TIMES AFTER THE VALVE HAS BEEN IN SERVICE A DAY OR SO, EVEN IF NO LEAKAGE EXISTS, THE FOLLOWER SHOULD BE TIGHTENED SLIGHTY. Obviously if leakage occurs, the follower must be tightened.

Information provided courtesy of the Fluid Sealing Association www.fluidsealing.com