Missouri River
Montana

Take a canoe trip in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark . . . where you will see many vistas little changed in over 200 years!

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Upper Missouri River "At a Glance"

Scenery Spectacular badlands, rock formations, "big sky"!
Best time May-September
Wilderness Very remote part of a sparsely populated state
Water Flow Good early in the season, gradually subsiding
Water Quality Good
Campsites Abundant primitive camping along the river
Hazards Wind, widely variable weather, some fast water
Logistics Few access points; shuttles & rentals available
Trip Length Up to 149 miles
Recommendation One of the top canoeing destinations in the US

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Rugged hills along the Missouri River at sunset (photo by Virginia Shannon)

General Description & Characteristics -- No more than a parent will admit that one child is the favorite, I would never admit to having a favorite river. If I did, however, this might be it.  Within a couple of hundred miles of its source, America's longest river is already big and wide, and the swift current of late spring and summer make it a joy for floaters. The land is rugged, with some spectacular rock formations and hillsides with the beginnings of the pine forests of the higher country. There are a few fast spots that can be rocky with lots of waves, but no difficult rapids.  This land has substantially the same appearance as when it was explored by the Lewis and Clark expedition two centuries ago.

Location & Canoeable Mileage -- The 149 mile segment from Fort Benton, MT to highway 191 (James Kipp State Park) is officially designated as the Upper Missouri Wild & Scenic River. This makes a perfect week long canoe trip. If you go in late June or thereabouts, you will have daylight until after 10 PM, allowing ample time each day for hiking to the many ridges and overlooks. This is a popular river, and traffic is increasing in recognition of the  Lewis & Clark bicentennial, but it is not crowded compared to the popular float streams of the eastern U.S., except the shorter sections on major holiday week ends. You can go in the early autumn and avoid most of the crowds, but the water flow will be much lower and you might want to take a few more days for the trip. There are a couple of intermediate access points that allow a somewhat shorter trip, but don't fail to see the "White Cliffs" region (see below).

Interesting Features -- While this entire run is scenic, the most spectacular section is toward the middle part. It is known as the "White Cliffs" region because of the unusually colored sandstone formations.

There are abandoned settlers log cabins in many locales. Some of these were occupied until the mid-twentieth century.  You can visit most of these (some may be fenced off), but please do not disturb the structures or any artifacts you may see.

Take along a copy of the journal of Lewis & Clark (see link below) -- you can read their descriptions of the same scenery you will see. Their campsites are marked on the excellent maps that are available from the BLM. Some of these camp sites are noted with markers along the river.

The land along the river is in mixed ownership with some being BLM (federal) land, some state land, and some private. The federal land has been designated at the Upper Missouri Breaks National Monument.  There is much ranch land, and cattle are grazed throughout. Some might be offended at some of the signs of the cattle industry here, but hopefully you can find campsites that have not been too recently grazed.

Watch along the ridges (or even right down by the river) for small herds of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep.

The weather in this region can be quite variable in the summer.   You may have 100 degree heat, or the weather may turn cold and rainy.  Be prepared!

Camping -- Excellent campsites abound on the river, with gravel landings leading up to small cottonwood groves. The landings may be muddy at certain water levels, making access to the campsites more difficult. There are a few designated camp sites, but they have no particular amenities.

Additional Information --

Canoeing Information
Canoe Rental/Shuttle Service Missouri River Canoe Company is an excellent provider of shuttle service and canoe rentals and also offers lodging near the river
River Flow Data
  • River flow information from USGS gauge at Fort Benton.
  • If you have difficulty obtaining information from this link, CLICK HERE and follow directions to your area of interest.
Parks on/near the River Upper Missouri Breaks National Monument
Towns/Other Locales on/near the River Fort Benton
Books
More Pictures

Canoe camping photo Gallery

Environmental Issues/Organizations American Rivers is the primary river conservation group in the US. Their web site has information about the campaign to restore and protect the natural qualities of the Missouri River.
Acknowledgments/Contributors  
Miscellaneous "In the Wake of Discovery  (a 2004 recreation of the Lewis and Clark exploration: http://www.lewisandclark-2004.com/

Northwest Locator Map

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