Activated Crossing Gates
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| While
happy with the first attempt at the activation of Crossing Gate
Signals, I wanted to make some minor changes to insure a
smoother SLOW movement of the gates. The original gates from NJ International, had a center mounted wire to move the gates up and down. Adjusting the cable activators to get a slow smooth movement was most difficult because of a center mounted pivot point on the gates. NJ has recently released a new version of the crossing gates, part numbers 1165 (black stripe gates) and 1164 (red stripe gates) for HO. These Signals not only offer lights in both directions but have an externally mounted gate wire, located further from the center pivot point. I will attempt to chronicle the steps to build up the Activated Crossing Gates as I install a pair on Grand Valley addition to the layout. Activated Crossing Gate Video - small version (just gates) Activated Crossing Gate Video - large version (sound and train) (computer video cam would only produce 15 frames a second) |
First let's look at the basic parts list:
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Circuitron DT-1 or DT-2 Crossing Gate Detector * Circuitron FL-2 Alternating Flasher Circuitron Remote Signal Activator part # 800-8100 Circuitron Extra Cable and Activator part # 800-8101 Circuitron Tortoise Switch Machine Circuitron External Relay ER-2 or DIY version of relay ** NJ International Crossing Gate Signal Set (determined by your gauge) 12 volt DC power Supply Screw drivers, Pencil Type Solder Iron and Electrical solder, wire, wire cutters, assorted screws etc. * any detection circuit will do - photo/light sensor or Infrared DT-2 is deluxe detector, offering logic type detection. ** can substitute a Do-it-yourself version of a relay shown below Note: While the circuits above will work with AC Power Supply; the board is powering a DC only Relay. Therefore you MUST use a 12 DC power Supply. (plans to build your own will follow!) |
Here are photos of the parts
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NJ International Crossing Gate Signals
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Parts to build DIY External Relay
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Radio Shack Part Numbers
Grid-Style PC Board part # 276-150
PC Relay 12VDC Coil-DPDT part # 275-249
Silicon Diode IN4001 part # 276-1101
Relay to detection circuit hookup diagrams
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| (1st: original Circuitron Diagram - 2nd: diagram to DIY relay - 3rd: hookup to the ER-2) |
| This is
everything you need to get started on your own! However, I will be updating this section with pictures and dialog as I finish each stage of the project if you need the step by step setup. The
first phase is building the DIY external relay, as the
Circuitron ER-2 is often hard to acquire. - Finished |
Build your own external relay
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| Not much to add
here. First Cut the PC Board exactly in half as shown.
The whole board is not needed; two relays can be built from one board. I have marked in blue the holes that should be used for the relay pins. The relay should "straddle" the center of the board, on the opposite side of the copper clad portion. Be careful "seating" the relay, as the pins need to be aligned with the holes. You will find it a very snug fit. The pin outs of the relay are shown looking at the relay from the bottom; these are the actual pin locations. The main drawing shows the LOGICAL wiring from the TOP of the relay; This drawing DID not follow the Radio Shack relay pin outs so I added colors to match the actual pin out locations. Be careful here to follow my color coded connection points. Solder the pins and wires carefully, inspecting closely as you go to insure solder does not "run" over into the other lands that may cause a short. This is the relay setup I am currently using for my Activated Crossing Gate Signals. (remember I accept no responsibility for any damages; use this project at your own risk.) |
Detector, flasher and relay mounted on wired
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| Detector, flasher
and relay are connected and wired. Four photo sensors are
wired. I found drilling from the under side of the
bench work, after carefully measuring from the side and end,
with a 3/8 ' drill the easiest method of installing the
photocells. Since the terrain is Styrofoam I just have to
drill thru the plywood base. Using a straightened coat
hanger that is sharpened end and with a small hook bent at the
other end, I push the coat hanger up through to the
surface. With careful measuring you will be in the right
spot every time. When I have pushed the coat hanger up
through to the surface, between the rails, I then go to the
surface and confirm the location is correct. Withdraw the
coat hanger completely; then from the surface. Now push the sharpened DOWN through the terrain, locating the hole in the base. Use the hook to pull the wires for the photocells down and through the terrain and out the bottom. The circuits were wired per Circuitron's Instructions. |
Gate Modifications and Setup
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Here you can see I have added a short length of 1/8" OD brass tubing to the base using a spot of super glue. The gate pivot wire was removed and replaced with a longer piece of music wire, as the original wire is too short for my layout depth. Power leads have been lengthened. I use a small plastic base for this type of signal. The plate has a groove cut for the external mounted gate pivot wire and the center hole has an offset area for the wires coming out of the base of the signal to pass through the plastic base. I super glue this plate to the bottom of the Signal Gate. |
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(updated October 1, 2006)
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