Ed's Antique Radio Restorations
Restoration Process
Following are the basic procedures I follow when restoring an old radio.
Deadly electrical shock is a constant danger when working on old radios. Therefore, it should not be attempted without proper equipment and an understanding of basic principles of safety. I use the following equipment:
Simpson Model 260 volt-ohmmeter
Radio Shack digital multimeter
40 watt soldering iron
RCA isolation transformer
Voltac variable AC transformer
Triplett Model 2413 tube tester
EICO 635 tube tester
Heathkit IG-102 RF signal generator
Heathkit C-3 condensor checker
EICO 145 signal tracer
Electrical Restoration
Disassemble radio by removing knobs, then removing chassis from cabinet
Clean chassis with a soft brush, then low pressure air. I use WD-40 or alcohol to remove any gunk on chassis
Remove tubes, clean with soft cloth, identify, test, then set aside
Using a schematic if available, identify and replace each electrolytic capacitor and wax covered paper capacitor with a modern capacitor
Using an ohmmeter, test each resistor and replace any out-of-tolerance resistors
Replace power cord
Clean the tuning capacitor with contact cleaner, which also provides lubrication
Replace the tubes
Bench test radio using an isolation transformer and variable power supply to slowly bring radio up to full power
Clock Restoration
I like clock radios. I have yet to find an electric clock that won't work after cleaning. Like the Energizer bunny, those old Telechron movements seem to just keep on going. Here's what I do:
Remove clock from radio and inspect.
Use brushes and low pressure air to gently remove dirt, dust and gunk from the movement
If the clock isn't working or is noisy, I disassemble clock and bench test rotor and field
Clean clock gears by soaking movement in alcohol, gently blow clean
Lubricate clock
Gently clean the clock face with a brush and clean the glass clock cover with water and Dawn
reassemble clock and bench test clock using an isolation transformer
I install a quick disconnect plug between clock and radio chassis to facilitate removal of the clock and chassis for future cleaning or service.
Cabinet Restoration
For plastic cabinets, I remove the plastic dial cover and any other attachments, then wash the cabinet in warm water using dishwashing soap, such as Dawn. I use a toothbrush to get grime out of crevices and corners. If there are labels on the cabinet, I cover those with plastic to prevent water damage. When the cabinet is dry, I polish it with Brasso, and then buff on a protective coat of carnauba automotive wax.
For wood cabinets, I first repair the cabinet if needed with carpenter's wood glue and clamps. I replace any missing veneer with strips of new matching veneer. Then I use Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher, which removes the old finish, but not the original stain. I then apply a very light coat of matching Minwax stain over the old stain to even out the color. I then apply four or five coats of spray lacquer, then apply lacquer toners to further even out the color. I finish up with another six or so coats of lacquer, so that the final finish is about twelve coats. I wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper between each three or four coats.

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