Blackwork Sampler

Samplers are a way for an embroiderer to practice and record patterns for future reference. According to Van Valin, most 17th century band samplers were about 6 inches wide. and 22-24 inches long. I had to rely on the 17th century dimensions, since the only 16th century sampler I know is Jane Bostocke's, dated 1598 and the patterns on the Bostocke sampler do not take up a full width of the cloth.

 

 

The first and second row designs are taken from Hans Holbein's painting of the Meyer Madonna (1526). Anna Meyer, the patron's daughter, has these two patterns embroidered in bands around her sleeve.

 

The third row design comes from Holbein's Portrait of Jane Seymour (1537). It is found of the cuff of her smock. The pattern represents Christian symbols, such as the steps to Paradise, Christ's cross and those of the thieves, the crown of thorns, and the rose of Sharon.

 

The fourth row is a design from Jane Bostocke's sampler (1598).

 

The fifth row is from Johan Schonsperger's Ein New Modelbuch (1526).

 

The sixth row is from the shirt cuffs in Portrait of a Gentleman by Jan Gossaert (c. 1530) at the Clark Art Institute.

 

I will continue adding patterns as I find them.

Bibliography

Carroll-Mann, Robin. [Brighid ni Chiarain of Tethba, pseud.]. "Some 16th Century Border Patterns for Blackwork Embroidery". Tournaments Illuminated #92, Fall 1989, pages 34-35.

King, Donald & Santina Levy. The Victoria & Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Embroidery in Britain from 1200 to 1750. London: V&A Publications, 1993.

Langdon, Helen. Holbein. London: Phaidon Press Limited, 1993.

Salazar, Kim Brody [Ianthe d'Averoigne, pseud.]. The New Carolingian Modelbook: Counted Embroidery Patterns from Before 1600. Outlaw Press, 1995.

Van Valin, Marsha. "English Band Sampler: A Personal Pattern Record". PieceWork, September/October 1993, pages 49-51.

copyright 2003 Abigail Weiner