Title
Indiana Jones
Manufacturer
Williams
Year
1993
Operational Status
Working/Unshopped
Price
$2000
Indiana Jones was my third pin purchase. It was bought off a local pin dealer, Randy Paris, for a good price.

A little work and time and this pin cleaned up nice.

Hard to really tell from the picture, but this pin was filthy. It had several broke and warped plastics as well as broken plastic posts and rubbers. The cabinet art was faded and there was a little damage to the cabinet.
FILTHY!!!
The head and playfield were then removed from the cabinet (as well as all screws, bolts, rails, and buttons) and original cabinet decals were removed with a industrial-strength heat gun and a putty knife. Total time to remove all decals was approx. 1.5 hours.
After the art was removed, the cabinet was sanded with an orbital sander with 60 grit sandpaper to remove any remaining glue. The cabinet was repaired with Heavy Duty Elmers Wood Filler and again sanded.

The cab was then painted with 2 coats of black, semi-gloss spraypaint.

While the cab was drying the bolts, head brackets and coin door were cleaned and painted to make them look like new.

Prior to applying the decals I wiped the cabinet with a cloth/hand to remove any dirt or debris (Ensure you do this as any raised texture on the cabinet will be noticable once the decals are applied).

Reproduced decals from Marco Specialties were then applied to the cabinet.

Techniques vary and after searching the newsgroups for opions and benefits and rawbacks, I decided I would give the windex method a try.

The windex method involves sparying the cabinet with windex and then applying the decal (just like applying tint to a window). The reason for the windex is that it allows time to move and adjust the decal into position.

I used the windex method on the coin door decal first and it went on and I was able to adjust it to where I wanted it. The only drawback to this is the drying time takes too long (approx. 3 days). However, trying to apply the coin door decal dry might have been dificult with the gap the removed coin door leaves.

The rest of the cabinet decals were applied with the dry method which is just too easy if done right.

For applying the decals via the dry method I placed the decal at one end of the cabinet and lined it up. Then I ensured that the decal was lined up at the other end while my helper (wife) held the decal in place at the initial end. Once I was pleased and checked 3 times that this was where I wanted the decal, my wife and I switched locations (with someones hand holding the decal in place at all times). I then lifted the decal at the starting point and peeled the backing paper approx. 2 inches and folded it back. Then while holding the decal in the air, I began to apply the decal where the decal and backing paper meet until it down thus creating an anchor point. I then switched with my wife and held the other end of the decal in the air while slowly pulling the backing paper away from the anchor point. While I was peeling, my wife went back and forth with a soft, clean cloth pushing the decal on the cabinet.

After the decal were applied to a side, I trimmed the decals approx 1/8" from the sides to give a uniformed look. I used a brand new box cutter and a 24" straight edge to make the cuts straight and precise.

Once all the decals were done, I began to reassemble the cabinet. The holes for the gun, flipper and coin-up buttons were cut out using an exacto knife. The holes for the bolts and screws were made by simply pushing the bolts or screws through the decal into their holes.

Fresh paint and new decals... NICE
Reassembled and waiting for playfield
The playfield was then stripped, cleaned and waxed. All new plastic and metal posts, bulbs, balls and rubbers were added.

An entire set of plastics was purchased off eBay for an astonishing $100. These were not billed as NOS, but could easily pass for it. Plastic protectors by Orbit Pinball were purchased and installed to complement and protect the plastics.

The flippers were rebuilt and new flipper bats were added.

German biplane repainted.

Playfield added and machine put in place in gameroom.

Notice the lane dividers on the mini-playfield and just below the INDY letters do not light as well as the pop bumpers. There is a burnt GI connecter at J121 that I suspect is the culprit.
Issues still to work out...

- Burnt GI connector on driver board - done! Thanks Ed (beaver)

- Pop bumpers not responsive enough

- German Messerchmidt needs to be replaced/repainted