A great article Eagle1 - highly recommended for all to read. I enjoyed your careful examination of the areas of concern in handling. There is an equation of driver plus equipment plus environment that must be dealt with in order to understand how to cope with the possible results of maneuvering the coupe at the edge of handling. Mostly the key is to relax, concentrate and smoothly give input to the car after having setup the vehicle (some call this 'tuning' others call it 'dial-in') and understand what the road surface and the weather is going to allow you to do. As another owner of the Tein Flex/EDFC combo I find that it has served the coupe wonderfully. Yes, you will notice additional stiffness. But to me, it's worth it for the grins and the handling I get. I have arrived at the following settings (my EDFC is set to the 32-step increments instead of the 16-step you are using): 1. Street - 28 front / 32 rear (14/16 on the default) 2. Twisties (Good Road) - 12 front / 18 rear ( 6/9 on the default) 3. AutoX/Track - 5 front / 10 rear (2.5/5 on the default) Depending on the surface I sometimes back down (soften or increase the rating of front and rear) on AutoX courses. If the surface is such that I might 'skate' or 'hop' with a too-stiff setting, this is recommended. On RoadAmerica I was able to keep the setting at 5/10 - in fact I was going to try to push it even more before my brakes fried. I guess a hard ride doesn't bother me as much - probably comes from driving my last car (an Acura Legend) for its' last 15K or so with cracked struts - it drove like a '48 Willys Jeep - a very beat-up Jeep! The "twistie" setting can be almost as fun - I can take interstate cloverleafs at speeds I never would have dreamed of before - often I come off the highway and barely tap the brakes and keep the same speed as on the road - up to 60 mph or more. And not a hint of a slide or a wiggle coming from the coupe. By the way, I do NOT do this when traffic is around - you will TERRIFY a driver of another car doing this. I also do not do it when I see the road surface is less than pristine (as cloverleafs often are in Chicago – beat up from salt and too many semis.) I can only cite once at RA were I lost the tail of the coupe for a bit, but a some throttle management (keeping it steady or slightly increasing it) kept the car in shape. I do have to place the caveat that I kept VDC on - so I was cheating. But hey, it was my first adventure on a high-speed track with an essentially new car (in terms of mods) - and RoadAmerica does NOT forgive mistakes! I will save the VDC-off turns for Gingerman later this month - where the course has plenty of run-off space and walls do not come into play. At most I am cleaning 'kitty litter' (fine pebbles in the run-off areas that slow you down) out of the coupe for a while! Like you write Eagle1 - practice where it's safe. RoadAmerica was NOT a safe place to practice. Gingerman WILL be a safer place to practice. In AutoX - well that's another matter. I still do not do enough "enter slow, exit fast" - I tend to overcook entries and find the coupe wallowing, not out of control, but definitely not able to maneuver nimbly. And once I really pushed the speed through some staggered gates and found myself snap over steering – which I managed to half ways rescue - but not before I went off course. Only the bushings - bigger, stiffer polyurethane ones replaced the stock bushings. I feel a lot less 'unevenness' from the coupe on hard cornering or speed transitions. And area that some don't pay enough attention to is ride height and rake - and not height for looks, but lowering height for a lower center of gravity. With a slightly higher rake in the rear than stock, and about 1 inch lowered status, the coupe does not 'buck' as much on hard acceleration - the engine's power is translated more into going forward and not as much into a 'rock and roll' motion as the rear wheels dig hard with the throttle increased. Also, the increased rake in the rear gives the tail a little more freedom. With corner weighting applied (my tuner adjusting each of the four 'corners' of the car so that they are equalized in weight) the coupe becomes a neutral-to-slightly-tail-happy car. The advantage is the marked absence of most of that aggravating understeer that plagued the coupe in hard turns. The disadvantage is that the tail will let loss at the edge, but in a fairly predictable manner. Only once did I snap it out – over-correcting when I pushed the coupe through a very bad line on the above-mentioned staggered gates. Still, I warn anyone doing modifications that as the car increases in ability - so must the driver. Nissan has done a super job of producing a fun car to drive that is still friendly to the average driver - understeer is easy to correct - you back off the throttle. But oversteer takes some discipline and touch - and a good butt dyno. Your advice on practicing on taking the coupe to the edge in a safe environment (or as safe as possible) should be followed by everyone. The AutoX course is so good for this - if you 'lose' the coupe, the most you will do 99.9% of the time is to DNF (disqualify yourself) or hit a cone. If you lose the coupe on a high-speed cloverleaf - you will do a lot more than that. I remember a great story told by the Scot driving legend Jimmy Clark about his adventure at the Indy 500 when he was driving Andy Granatelli's STP-sponsored Lotus. Clark managed an unbelievable feat – completely spinning the racecar at high speed at the legendarily unforgiving track, controlling it and then continuing to drive on without hitting the wall. He did this twice. A monumental piece of driving skill that showed that Jim Clark knew exactly how to handle a high-performance car at (and over) the edge and do it perfectly - twice. His quote was the best. When people were praising him and asking just how he managed to do something that even the great drivers found hard to do he just pointed at the sponsor's logo - STP - and said: "Spinning Takes Practice" A joke - yes, but a joke with more than a little bit of truth in it. - Riff