New Jersey Division Meet Clinic Handout

NOMENCLATURE:

Drawing from: Gottfried, Herbert and Jans Jennings. American Vernacular Design 1870-1940. Ames, University of Iowa Press, 1988.

Windows that are integrally cast with building walls are usually way out of scale and should be reworked to provide a more prototypical appearance. Windows that are cast separate from the kit are sometimes better than those cast integral to the wall but are usually out of scale also.

However, to precisely replicate window sash (mullions and muntins) in HO scale is difficult, as the scale size of sash light dividers is typically _" to _", which in HO equates to .006" and .009" respectively. Consideration should be given to replacing out of scale windows with finer scale materials, such as the windows manufactured by Grandt Line. The variety that Grandt Line has available (both size and style) is excellent and includes appropriate windows for wood as well as masonry buildings. Windows for use on wood buildings have the frame exposed beyond the window opening while the windows used on masonry buildings have the frame within the window opening. However, model windows made for wood buildings can be used for masonry buildings if they are installed backwards and upside down. When installing windows make sure the top sash is always outside of the bottom sash.

A variety of good windows are also available from Micro Engineering Co., Pike Stuff and Sequoia. SS Ltd. also makes a fair line of white metal cast windows. Additional windows are also available from Alexander, Campbell and Dyna-Model Products but are not as well made and require sanding to make them thinner. I have also seen etched brass windows, which are nice but kind of pricey. I don't remember who makes them.

I have found that cutting up the Grandt Line Roundhouse 60" x 120" Window (300-5010 * with 6/pkg.) to be very useful in upgrading the windows in some kits such as the City Classics 1930s Crafton Avenue Service Station and the DPM module 'rectangular' windows.

Many industrial plants use translucent corrugated fiberglass material as windows. I have replicated this by using Brawa clear plastic corrugated material (186-2856) spray painted with a mixture of Tamiya clear green (865-81025) and clear blue (865-81023).
I spray paint window frames and sash while they are still attached to the casting sprue as it makes handling easier. Once painted I separate each window and glue each individual window frame to a sheet of my clear window material. Once the glue is dry I cut around the outside of each window frame and insert into the building.

Most of us model a season other than dead winter, i.e., spring, summer or fall. Therefore, it stands to reason that some windows would be opened. Cutting away the lower parts of the sash (bottom rail and lower stiles) and replacing the bottom rail with an appropriately sized piece of Evergreen strip material can easily make open windows. This should be done before painting. Remember to also install the top piece of the open sash (painted the sash color) in the appropriate position after the 'glass' has been installed.

Window (and door) screens can be fabricated using Evergreen strip material (scale 1" x 2" - 269-8102 works well) and Master Creations (silk screen) window screening (464-1100). Paint the frames before gluing on the screening material, leave the silk screen material its natural gray color or darken it using an artist's marker, such as a Cool Grey #3. DO NOT PAINT THE SILK SCREEN MATERIAL.

If modeling a later period, add window air conditioning units. I like Alloy Forms window units (119-2007, 7/pkg.)

For residential and some commercial buildings don't forget shades, blinds and curtains.

If an industrial building window is facing any direction but north consider blanking out some of the panes so as to minimize the shining of sun onto interior work places.

Some window openings also have louvered vents (Pike Stuff 541-1009, 3/pkg) and fans (Alexander 120-701) installed. The windows with the City Classic factory kits include louvered vents, which can also be used in other windows.

Consider having a figure standing next to a window looking out, someone leaning out of an open window or a figure looking out from behind a screen door.

For additional information on windows see MLM articles by John Nehrich in Dec. 84 and Jan 85 and by Jeff English in Mar 85.

Doors are not as big a problem as windows. If they have a window and are integral to the wall they can be carefully cut out and sanded to an appropriate thickness, or if a separate casting just sanded down so they do not appear to be so thick. If they have no window, obviously the thickness is not discernable, and therefore, not a problem. Again the after market of doors are also available from the window manufacturers listed above.

The area I am modeling, Northwestern Pennsylvania, has many, many brick buildings. I have always enjoyed constructing buildings but always hated to do the work involved in representing the mortaring. I tried many different methods and never found one that was quick and easy. Until I discovered Floquil Driftwood Stain. Now I look forward to a mortaring project. My technique is as follows:

1. Spray paint the brick surfaces with 'plastic-kote' Automotive Sanding Primer, color T-234, Red Oxide Primer. This paint along with the colors black and gray is available at Pep Boys. It is important that this paint dry thoroughly, until you can no longer smell it when placed close to the nose. It is also important to use this lacquer base paint for the initial coat as we will be putting a petroleum distillate paint over this base coat.

 

2. Next, apply a fairly liberal coating of well mixed, full strength Floquil Driftwood Stain on to the painted brick surface.

 

3. Wait for a minute or two, then wipe clean with a cotton cloth (old T-shirt). The initial wiping should be easy passes with not much pressure. In subsequent passes more pressure can be applied. This is just like staining wood. You want to get the stain off the brick surface but leave it in the mortar grooves. If the mortaring is not intense enough for you apply a second coat.

 

4. You can use a small piece of wood or finger nail and cloth to get the stain off the brick surfaces in the corners. You can also rub the wall with your finger to reduce the amount of stain that remains on the brick surface.

Unfortunately I understand that Floquil is no longer making Driftwood Stain. However, with this in mind I have experimented with two other Floquil products (Not Polly Scale) - Grime and Foundation. I have found that both work equally as well as the stain. However, the Foundation color is more yellow-tan than the Grime or stain color, which is a light gray.

Every building except the newest should have some weathering applied to it. I like using alcohol and India ink washes of varying intensities. I apply it right over the windows and everything, unless of course it is a residential building with some who lives there that 'does windows.'

There was a recent article in the modeling press about using artist's markers to color bricks. I tried this using a Charkpak Burnt Sienna P75 (168) marker on top of the method previously described and came up with what I consider mixed results. Artist's markers are available in a plethora of colors at NJ Art Supply in Cherry Hill.

If the back of a brick facade will be exposed above a roofline the back of the wall should show brick detail as well. This can be accomplished by gluing Holgate and Reynolds brick sheet to the back of the wall prior to painting. I have found that in order to bond the H&R material to most building kits Plastruct Bondene styrene cement must be used, Tenax will not work in this case.


* Numbers in (parenthesis) are Walthers stock numbers.

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