Installing Peachtree Windows

Introduction

I recently ordered a set of aluminum-clad wood slider windows made by Peachtree (Model 700) from my local Lowes. At the time of ordering, I was told that some installers found them difficult to work with. Nevertheless, they seemed like good construction for a reasonable price, so I went ahead with the purchase.

Upon delivery, I was somewhat puzzled by the product I received and was not helped by the Peachtree instruction booklet. In particular, I ordered the factory-installed aluminum brickmold, but it was not obvious how to remove it in order to install the window using the nailing fin. When I called Lowes back, I was told "We are trained to sell them, not to install them. You'll just have to figure it out."

I next called Peachtree. After waiting on hold for 33 minutes, the service representative said "You're the third caller this week with this problem -- did you get the windows through Lowes? It appears that the Minnesota assembly plant now rivets the brickmold to the window for shipping. You will have to drill out these rivets, but I'm not sure how you will secure the brickmold after window installation." Naturally, there is no installation information on the Peachtree WWW site :(

With that "advice", I forged ahead and now have 10 new windows installed. Since others apparently have had the same issue, I thought I'd document my steps.

Remove the packaging (shrink-wrap, cardboard sides, instructions, and eventually the wood blocks on the bottom). I also removed the plastic strap across the middle, though I could imagine that it was intended to be a useful handle for some installations. Removing the (many) staples securing all this plastic is one of the most time consuming steps in unpacking the window -- it just didn't seem right leaving them all in the wood.
Indeed, drill out the 3 (each) rivets on the top and sides. Also remove the inner 2 (of 6) screws in the bottom of the sill. Some windows also had a middle screw that needed to be removed.
It still was necessary to pry a bit agressively to unstick the bottom aluminum lip to remove the brickmold.
To make the installation a one-person job, I removed the sashes and (optional) screen, leaving just the window frame to install. I realize this is a bit risky, but the 54"x54" window frame still seemed pretty stiff and I double-checked for level and square during the installation.
Install the window using the nailing fin. Although the instructions say to caulk just the top and sides, I couldn't see a reason not to use caulk the sill (and this is a way bugs have entered our house in the past). I used a silicon-based "Big Stretch" from our local Sutherlands lumber store. I installed 1-2 nails in the corner (as per the instructions).
Reinsert the sashes and test for proper operation.
Install all remaining nails in the nailing fin.
I used a dollup of "Big Stretch" to cover each of the rivet holes.
Slide the brickmold back over the frame. Carefully seat the bottom channel into the lip of the window frame. I used a hammer and wood block [conveniently supplied as shipping material!] to fully seat this channel.
This leaves the top of the brickmold slightly loose. In my case, I had some wood trim that was straightforward to overlap with the top flange of the brickmold to secure it. Using some explicit fasteners also would work.

This made for a reasonably quick job for this DIYer -- about an hour and a half per window, including removal of the old window. I should also say that $500 for custom sized double-pane metal-clad wood windows seemed pretty reasonable and the quality appears to be adequate. My only design complaint is that there are no milled groves for a finger hold on the sash. I just push on the sash.

I hope this information helps someone else!