Above is the TD-111 as it was when I acquired it.
p.s. yeah, I know that the
Start is engaged. So what?
the original tonearm mounting hole was modded to accept an
SME mount. this leaves a crappy cutout situation that might have to
entirely cutout. A new belt was put in and the idler well and
underside of the platter were cleaned. The bottom looks a little hacked
First to get the paint off
Trial run with the RB250
Away works well enough and without all the fumes. First coat got
most of the paint off except for what adhered to the edges. Another
application is needed. The table adheres to the plinth stronger than my
will to pry it loose. Last thing I want if to screw it up by twisting
and pulling before I have even begun, so it stays stuck. Tough to apply
the goop but I used cutout cereal boxes into the slot between the table
and plinth and removed it after the goop was on. That kept the goop
away from the table; scraping it off was smooth as pie with a paint
scraper at a 45 degree angle. The paint just peels away, no foolin'. It
easy to keep away from mucking up the table by just scraping at an
angle away from it. Below you can see the outcome so far still wet from
the Peel Away.
SME cutout shown above still has the
Ortofon cutout still present. To find the mounting point I used a rig
made of a thread spindle + knitting needle + thread + button.
I set the rig on the NAD and moved the string across
'till it centered in the mounting hole. To mount the arm securely two
washers + 4mm spacer will be used. With the setting saved
on the rig I moved it onto the Thorens then moved the
washer 'till the thread was centered.
very rough looking but plays like a champ. Dead on at 60mhz after 10
minutes. Impact, presence, rock solid decay and sustain. I can't see
going back to a belt after hearing piano on this table. There are no
neurotic piano notes - this carries across to strings. The sound is
plain solid. Without going into play by play I will say that all
the attributes that I have heard touted for these idler tables turn out
to be true.
From some discovery and some help from inmates it looks like I
have a list of things to address. I cleaned the main bearing and
housing and removed more of the paint, and put an oil finish on the
plinth. Glued the armboard down. Damped some open areas under the
plinth with generic Blu Tac. The works
and arm go on next.
|So on goes the works and the arm and is aligned with the "mosin" alignment rig.
|The mount is made with two alloy 7/8" cut washers, top one painted
black, bottom one not. They provide a solid mount correcting for the
SME cutout and the chipped away armboard underside.
generous inmates sent me dustbugs. One is the original
and one that has a grounding lead. I will use BOTH! The original
just needs to go back onto the base which has been glued on. The one
with the ground eliminates static nicely.
|This arms is a 1960-70's circa Piezo/Syntec/Sparta/Mosin tonearm. It shows a resemblance to the AT-1005. Mr.Win
Tinnon added the creature comfort called the cuing arm and arm rest. I
will add an anti-skate a bit later.
|The plinth came up OK. Not great but OK. I will need to get around to getting a new plinth but maybe NEXT year.
|New grommet time. After having a look at them again I guess it's obvious. And how did that belt get oily. Damn!
|These are the new ones which I got from Advanced Anti vibration Components
for about $5 a piece. These cut noise by 90%. It's incredible. Whisper
quiet. I had to bend down with my ear to the open works to hear
anything. Now there is an added delicacy to the sonic wham.
Model number V10Z61MA2
is what I got .
Motor cleaning next ....
using this resource:
I sorted out the motor cleaning but wound up using a NOS motor.
I need to go back and redo the work I did on the first motor, dirty job, but the thing is up and running using an Ebony DL-103.
DL-102 is on the way.
A little plinth work is up next. I think I will just truss up what is there with layers onto the inside panels.