What I offer is hand milled needle shims. These kits have been sold to some of the well known tuners within the V-Max community who's standards in calibrating their carburators have put my kit to the test. All that are using the kit enjoy surpassing tune-ability delivering horse power gains as well as increased MPG/KPL with just a simple adjustment of the needle position. This kit will make all the difference when the restricted whole clip position is too rich or too lean.

All my experience with test and tune over the years have resulted in the logical development of this kit by taking precision beyond the limited jet kit. I can honestly say that my kit picks up where the jet kit manufacturers left off.

  • MPG/KPL: Increased fuel economy at steady cruise where the majority of riding takes place and the needles control the air/fuel mixture for optimal fuel economy...

  • TUNE: Improves tune-ability by allowing the smoothest transition between circuit overlap for smooth acceleration. My shims will give you the means to fine tune needle position and fuel mixture for best performance. Each circuit overlap as the throttle is applied. These overlap regions tend to complicate tuning, but this overlap is necessary to insure a seamless throttle response as one circuit tapers off and the next circuit begins to take over.

  • HP: When dyno tuning, the engine is lugged from off idle to top end in 4th gear. Going from lean to rich or vise versa will upset the air/fuel mix within the circuit transitions (overlap) robbing the engine of power and a smooth pull.

  • QUALITY: My shims are precise within .0005". These are NOT washers by the old school tech from radio shack or a hobby shop.

    The kit fits all Dyno jet stage 1 & stage 7 needles as well as Factory pro needles

    The kit comes with 2 sets of 4 shims. One set of 1/2 clip shims & one set of 3/4 shims.

    Where to place the shim on the needle?

    It's simple, it goes between the spacer and e-clip as shown in illustration.

    Any questions about your set up or, if your ready to order

    e-mail me at onlyone12@comcast.net

    Subject line "shim kit"

    Include information as in year of your bike, exhaust, jet kit, altitude your ride in and present state of tune or symtoms.

    Cost of the kit is $40 with FREE shipping within the USA

    PayPal or Money Order. Email for details



    Quick tip I use to keep carbs clean.

    Use the Pauls pea shooter method next time you start the bike. First find your self a simple syringe from a pet supply, pharmacy, even auto parts store. This will be needed to draw and squirt sea foam as explained in this tip. Remove filters or airbox, turn your pilot screws out 2 full turns. Choke on and start the bike, squirt sea foam in the choke vent at the top of carb, this will be the hole above the choke valve at the top of the carb. Do this while its running, no reving but keep it around 1500rpm.. now, once bike is warmed up turn choke off, squirt sea foam in the Pilot air jet #1.. this is the removeable jet at the top of the carburetor. Give it slight revs to allow the engines vacuum to draw the sea foam down the air circuit to clear it up.. if you should get sea foam into the carb throat dont worry about it, you will have some smoke out the exhaust is all but it wont hurt anything. Once done set the pilot screws back in 2 whole turn where you had them. You dont want to use compressed air to clear circuits. Compressed air can complicate things by forcing dirt into the circuit clogging things worse and once the enrichment ciruit is plugged you will have problems.

    This is a pretty simple task but here are a couple pics if your in doubt.

    Pilot screws may have brass factory plugs
    To remove, use a small drill bit, wrap with tape to set depth ¼", drill hole in center.
    Screw a sheet metal screw into hole tight and wiggle plug out.
    Use a rag to shield against brass fragments falling into
    cylinder around plug area.
    If pilot screws are binding (usually the right bank carbs will bind), STOP!
    You do NOT want to strip these screws.
    Get a can of PB-Blaster and a screw driver that fits tight in the screw slot with no play.
    Remove another screw from one of the left bank carbs to size up a screw driver if needed.
    Use BP-Blaster and forced air to loosen the screw, work screw back and forth.
    Do not be in a hurry because these screw slots will strip out easy.
    Use the PB-B when you feel resistance, take your time and know when to stop. Once the screw is loose, remove it, add some anit sieze to the threads and replace it back by reverse threading it till it seats,
    once you feel a click proceed to screwing it in.


    NOTE: Any modifications to your motorcycle while the factory warranty is still active may void that warranty.
    I accept no liability for any modification any individual might make to theirs or any other Motorcycle as a result of any information used from this site.
    Using shims and the tips found on these sites is not a guaranteed fix if you have other issues.
    Such issues can be:

  • Leak in manifolds & carburetor boots
  • Carbs out of synch
  • Floats out of specs
  • Dirty air filters
  • Worn out needle jets
  • Personal mechanical ability

    Good luck and ride safe. Check back for more tips later in May.

    Again, any questions about your set up or, if your ready to order shims, e-mail me at onlyone12@comcast.net

    Subject line "shim kit"

    Include information as in year of your bike, exhaust, jet kit, altitude your ride in and present state of tune or symtoms.