Skeletal Hands
Skeletal hands for Halloween props made from Crayola Model Magic and coat hangers.
Here's the parts list:
Coat hangers - 3 to 5, depending on the length of the forearm
Craft wire - any solid single strand wire will do
Marker pen
Lineman's pliers - any pliers will do, so long as you can cut and bend the wire
Two-part epoxy - because it's strong and sets fast
Acrylic craft paint - black and white
Soft paint brush and small mixing dish
Paper towels
Scissors
Modeling tools - nothing fancy, just something to etch some jagged lines
Crayola Model Magic - white
Coat hangers - 3 to 5, depending on the length of the forearm
Craft wire - any solid single strand wire will do
Marker pen
Lineman's pliers - any pliers will do, so long as you can cut and bend the wire
Two-part epoxy - because it's strong and sets fast
Acrylic craft paint - black and white
Soft paint brush and small mixing dish
Paper towels
Scissors
Modeling tools - nothing fancy, just something to etch some jagged lines
Crayola Model Magic - white
If you need a longer hand with a long forearm bone, clip out the long part of the
hanger. One wire per finger.
If all you need is a hand and wrist, you can use the short parts of the hanger. Again, one wire per finger.
If all you need is a hand and wrist, you can use the short parts of the hanger. Again, one wire per finger.
Cut about a 6 inch length of the craft wire and have it standing by.
Mix up some epoxy and roll the end of each wire in the glue. Fully coat the last inch or two of the wire.
Mix up some epoxy and roll the end of each wire in the glue. Fully coat the last inch or two of the wire.
Bundle the wires together. Don't worry if the epoxy starts to
drip off. Starting just outside of the epoxy, start winding the
craft wire tightly around the wires.
Wrap the wire as tight as you can all the way down to the end of the wires. When you get to the end, clip off the excess wire. Use the mixing stick to smooth down the end of the wire and smoosh it into the epoxy.
Then use the mixing stick to smear/coat with left-over epoxy to make sure the craft wire is completely coated.
That unglued bit of wire wrap toward the top? Leave it, clip it, or glue it down...up to you.
Wrap the wire as tight as you can all the way down to the end of the wires. When you get to the end, clip off the excess wire. Use the mixing stick to smooth down the end of the wire and smoosh it into the epoxy.
Then use the mixing stick to smear/coat with left-over epoxy to make sure the craft wire is completely coated.
That unglued bit of wire wrap toward the top? Leave it, clip it, or glue it down...up to you.
When it's all said and done, it should look something like this. If the epoxy hasn't
thickened enough yet, you may have to twirl it around a bit to keep too much
from dripping off.
This particular picture is from a "short hand", no long forearm bone. I forgot to take a picture of the one I was working on and had to dig around for picture of a finished end.
This particular picture is from a "short hand", no long forearm bone. I forgot to take a picture of the one I was working on and had to dig around for picture of a finished end.
Tease out the wires into the shape of a spread hand.
If making a long forearm, a second small wire wrap and some epoxy at the wrist will
keep the wires tight and easier to deal with.
Use the marker pen to mark out the first knuckle bend of the fingers. By laying the
wire frame over your hand and flexing your fingers, you can get a good idea where
each joint should be in relation to the others.
These first knuckle joints mark the outside edge of the bony palm area.
These first knuckle joints mark the outside edge of the bony palm area.
Use the pliers to give each wire a small bend at each mark.
Now is a good time to adjust the spacing between the fingers. If the hand is going to be gripping something, you may want the fingers closer together. If the hand is reaching out, then the pattern shown here will work well.
All you need to work out now is the spacing between the fingers.
Don't trim the wires to length just yet. Wait until after the palm bones are formed to make sure the proportions are right.
Now is a good time to adjust the spacing between the fingers. If the hand is going to be gripping something, you may want the fingers closer together. If the hand is reaching out, then the pattern shown here will work well.
All you need to work out now is the spacing between the fingers.
Don't trim the wires to length just yet. Wait until after the palm bones are formed to make sure the proportions are right.
A quick note about storing open Model Magic. Use an air tight container!
To protect the Model Magic after opening, it needs to be protected from air. The original mylar pouch is good for wrapping the foam, but once open it will never be air tight again.
I've tried heavy aluminum foil...I've tried various resealable plastic bags...and I've tried aluminum foil and plastic bags together. They just don't cut it. Your stuff will dry out and become usuable. Sometimes in just days.
To protect the Model Magic after opening, it needs to be protected from air. The original mylar pouch is good for wrapping the foam, but once open it will never be air tight again.
I've tried heavy aluminum foil...I've tried various resealable plastic bags...and I've tried aluminum foil and plastic bags together. They just don't cut it. Your stuff will dry out and become usuable. Sometimes in just days.
Cut a chunk of the foam roughly the size of the palm area.
Push the wires down into the foam. Work the foam up between the wires and pinch it firmly together as it comes around each wire.
As the foam comes around each wire and is pinched together, it will form a visible seam. Smoosh, pinch, tug, and work the foam with your fingers to make the seams disappear.
Push the wires down into the foam. Work the foam up between the wires and pinch it firmly together as it comes around each wire.
As the foam comes around each wire and is pinched together, it will form a visible seam. Smoosh, pinch, tug, and work the foam with your fingers to make the seams disappear.
Shape the foam so that the wrist and finger wires are centered in the foam.
Make sure that each of the first knuckle joints is barely exposed.
Make sure that each of the first knuckle joints is barely exposed.
Use a modeling tool to begin shaping out the palm bones. Start with the bones
closest to the fingers...one per finger.
You can see the tip of the tool I used at the bottom of the picture. It's a popsicle stick with the end cut off. A flat file was used to carve some V's into the end. Push the tool into the foam and give it a bit of a wiggle to make a good deep impression.
Make these lines deep, at least a couple of millimeters. The foam will rebound a bit as it rests and dries.
You can see the tip of the tool I used at the bottom of the picture. It's a popsicle stick with the end cut off. A flat file was used to carve some V's into the end. Push the tool into the foam and give it a bit of a wiggle to make a good deep impression.
Make these lines deep, at least a couple of millimeters. The foam will rebound a bit as it rests and dries.
When satisfied with the first five bones, etch out bones for the rest of the palm.
For once in life, sloppiness counts. Make the lines ragged and irregular by changing the angle of the tool each time you press it into the foam.
The foam is pretty soft at this stage and it will deform and wrinkle up as you work the lines into it. That's okay. Wrinkles, dents, and such aren't defects, they're details.
The hook of a coat hanger is an excellent tool for making the lines around the edge of the palm. Set the hook into a line, and roll it around the edge to the back side. Do the same thing between the fingers.
For once in life, sloppiness counts. Make the lines ragged and irregular by changing the angle of the tool each time you press it into the foam.
The foam is pretty soft at this stage and it will deform and wrinkle up as you work the lines into it. That's okay. Wrinkles, dents, and such aren't defects, they're details.
The hook of a coat hanger is an excellent tool for making the lines around the edge of the palm. Set the hook into a line, and roll it around the edge to the back side. Do the same thing between the fingers.
Flip the hand over and do the lines on the back.
Start at the ends of the lines you formed around the edge of the palm using the hanger hook. This will ensure the back pattern lines up nicely with the front.
When the lines on the back are finished, flip the hand back over and touch up any damage to the front side that may have happened while working the back side.
Let the foam dry for at least a day. The package claims a 24 hour dry time. In 24 hours the foam will be dry enough to continue, but around here it usually takes a couple of days or more for it to truly dry out. Mileage may vary.
Start at the ends of the lines you formed around the edge of the palm using the hanger hook. This will ensure the back pattern lines up nicely with the front.
When the lines on the back are finished, flip the hand back over and touch up any damage to the front side that may have happened while working the back side.
Let the foam dry for at least a day. The package claims a 24 hour dry time. In 24 hours the foam will be dry enough to continue, but around here it usually takes a couple of days or more for it to truly dry out. Mileage may vary.
Trim each of the finger wires to length. Middle finger longest, the others slightly
shorter as you work your way toward the thumb and little finger.
Map out the remaining finger joints, starting from the tip. Make the first mark about one inch from the tip. It seems short, but the fingertip will extend beyond the end of the wire. You only need enough wire here for the foam to grab.
The second mark should be just short of halfway between the edge of the palm and the fingertip joint. You want the middle bone to be slightly shorter than the one closest to the palm.
The fingers each get two joints, the thumb only gets one. I've tried two joints in the thumb, but it just didn't look right.
Map out the remaining finger joints, starting from the tip. Make the first mark about one inch from the tip. It seems short, but the fingertip will extend beyond the end of the wire. You only need enough wire here for the foam to grab.
The second mark should be just short of halfway between the edge of the palm and the fingertip joint. You want the middle bone to be slightly shorter than the one closest to the palm.
The fingers each get two joints, the thumb only gets one. I've tried two joints in the thumb, but it just didn't look right.
Use the pliers to put a slight bend in the wire at each mark. Try not to apply too
much pressure to the foam on the palm as it may deform if not completely dry.
While your own hand may not be the same size as the one you're making, you can still use it as a model. Hold your hand in the pose you want to achieve and tweak the wires until you're happy with their position.
While your own hand may not be the same size as the one you're making, you can still use it as a model. Hold your hand in the pose you want to achieve and tweak the wires until you're happy with their position.
.
Here, all the wires have been bent and tweaked into the final positions.
This is your last best chance to get the finger positions right. You can make adjustments after the foam goes on the fingers. But not without risk of damage.
The fingertips are the most easily damaged. Since the wire does not go all the way to the end, the foam tips easily break off. Luckily, they are also easy to replace or glue back on.
Here, all the wires have been bent and tweaked into the final positions.
This is your last best chance to get the finger positions right. You can make adjustments after the foam goes on the fingers. But not without risk of damage.
The fingertips are the most easily damaged. Since the wire does not go all the way to the end, the foam tips easily break off. Luckily, they are also easy to replace or glue back on.
Each finger bone starts out as a cylindrical slug of foam about a half to
three-quarters of an inch in diameter. It should be about half as long as the finger
bone it will eventually become.
Push the wire down into the foam and firmly pinch together to seal the seam.
Grab the next knuckle joint with the fingers of one hand.
Smoosh the foam up around your fingers to form the second knuckle, thinning the middle portion of the bone as you do so.
Sometimes when thinning out the middle portion of the bone, the wire will wallow out the hole around itself in the foam. This is usually not a problem, as long as it's not flopping around on the wire like a mayonnaise jar on a pencil.
Smoosh the foam up around your fingers to form the second knuckle, thinning the middle portion of the bone as you do so.
Sometimes when thinning out the middle portion of the bone, the wire will wallow out the hole around itself in the foam. This is usually not a problem, as long as it's not flopping around on the wire like a mayonnaise jar on a pencil.
Here is the first completed finger bone. Try to keep the wire running more or less
down the middle of the foam.
If you look close, you can see a tiny bit of the seam in the foam visible on the edge of the knuckle. That's what I call a naturally occuring detail, as opposed to a lack of initiative to smooth it out..
If you look close, you can see a tiny bit of the seam in the foam visible on the edge of the knuckle. That's what I call a naturally occuring detail, as opposed to a lack of initiative to smooth it out..
Form the second finger bone just like the first one. But this time, you'll have to hold
the knuckle of the first bone in place as you form the next knuckle against it.
Don't worry too much about sealing each knuckle to the other. You want these joints to open up a bit as the foam dries and shrinks.
Don't worry too much about sealing each knuckle to the other. You want these joints to open up a bit as the foam dries and shrinks.
To form the fingertip, start with foam slug about the same size as the one used on the
middle bone.
Preshape the foam like a cone and stick it on the end of the wire.
Form the knuckle in the same manner as the first knuckle of the middle bone.
Preshape the foam like a cone and stick it on the end of the wire.
Form the knuckle in the same manner as the first knuckle of the middle bone.
Finish the fingertip by shaping the foam to look like the head of a mean-blooded
goose. Excess foam is simply worked to the end of the finger and pinched off.
The wire only runs about half, or less, the length of the fingertip, so it may tend to droop until the foam dries.
The wire only runs about half, or less, the length of the fingertip, so it may tend to droop until the foam dries.
A piece of PVC pipe and a clamp make an excellent holding fixture for drying.
If fingertip droop is a problem, the angle of the pipe can be adjusted to combat it.
If fingertip droop is a problem, the angle of the pipe can be adjusted to combat it.
Let the fingers dry before moving on to finish the wrist and forearm.
In this picture, you can see how the joints open up and seperate as they dry. This is a good thing.
If the joints separate too much, gently push the bone down the wire. You may have to give it a tiny twist while pushing if the foam has adhered to the wire inside.
In this picture, you can see how the joints open up and seperate as they dry. This is a good thing.
If the joints separate too much, gently push the bone down the wire. You may have to give it a tiny twist while pushing if the foam has adhered to the wire inside.
Start forming the wrist and forearm bones by wrapping foam around the wires and
pinching the seam shut.
Don't totally erase the seam this time. Use it to mark out the crease between the two forearm bones.
Don't totally erase the seam this time. Use it to mark out the crease between the two forearm bones.
Push the foam up around the bottom of the palm and into the rough shape of the
some wrist bones. Use the modeling tool to detail out the bones.
The coat hanger hook is excellent for forming the deep crease between the two forearm bones.
The coat hanger hook is excellent for forming the deep crease between the two forearm bones.
Painting is a simple two step process. First a base coat to seal the foam, then a dark
wash to bring out the details. Acrylic water-based craft paints are excellent for this.
The base coat does not need to white. Yellow also works pretty good. But it does need to be light, as the wash will darken the final product.
Make sure to paint between the spaces in the knuckle joints.
The base coat does not need to white. Yellow also works pretty good. But it does need to be light, as the wash will darken the final product.
Make sure to paint between the spaces in the knuckle joints.
A wash is paint that has been heavily watered down. A good basic wash is 10 parts
water to 1 part paint. That's the formula used in this project.
The idea behind a this wash is to have the color run down into the cracks and other details. Then use a paper towel to remove/wipe/dab the wash from the raised surfaces, but leaving it in the deeper parts.
Use a wide, soft bristle brush to quickly smear the wash over the surface. Completely cover the area. Then quickly take a paper towel and dab away the wash from all the rasied and flat surfaces. Take a look around to see if the wash splashed or ran to a part of the hand you didn't intend. It has a nasty habit of that.
The wash will stain the base coat to some degree. How much it stains depends on how thin you made the wash and how long you leave it on before wiping. Thinner washes darken the base coat less. The longer you let it set before wiping, the darker the staining.
It is probably better to dab the wash away. Wiping has a tendency to leave streaks and occasionally removes the undercoat, leaving bright spots (bare foam).
Work in small limited areas. Depending on how long you want the wash to sit before you get a chance to wipe it off.
This is a messy process, plan accordingly. The wash is so thin that it will be flinging, dripping, and running all over the place faster than you can control it.
The idea behind a this wash is to have the color run down into the cracks and other details. Then use a paper towel to remove/wipe/dab the wash from the raised surfaces, but leaving it in the deeper parts.
Use a wide, soft bristle brush to quickly smear the wash over the surface. Completely cover the area. Then quickly take a paper towel and dab away the wash from all the rasied and flat surfaces. Take a look around to see if the wash splashed or ran to a part of the hand you didn't intend. It has a nasty habit of that.
The wash will stain the base coat to some degree. How much it stains depends on how thin you made the wash and how long you leave it on before wiping. Thinner washes darken the base coat less. The longer you let it set before wiping, the darker the staining.
It is probably better to dab the wash away. Wiping has a tendency to leave streaks and occasionally removes the undercoat, leaving bright spots (bare foam).
Work in small limited areas. Depending on how long you want the wash to sit before you get a chance to wipe it off.
This is a messy process, plan accordingly. The wash is so thin that it will be flinging, dripping, and running all over the place faster than you can control it.
If you leave a bit of the wires sticking out the bottom, you can use a small clamp to hang the hand
while the forearm bones dry.
Let the foam completely dry before painting. It may take a couple or three days to dry out. The foam should be stiff, not smooshy like a stale marshmallow.
Let the foam completely dry before painting. It may take a couple or three days to dry out. The foam should be stiff, not smooshy like a stale marshmallow.
Some sort of fixer/sealer coat is needed to protect the paint from rubs and scuffs.
This is my favorite fixer. While it's good against handling damage and everyday humidity, I doubt it'll hold up very well in rain or other similar wet situations. For that you'll probably want a clear flat outdoor acrylic spray paint.
This is my favorite fixer. While it's good against handling damage and everyday humidity, I doubt it'll hold up very well in rain or other similar wet situations. For that you'll probably want a clear flat outdoor acrylic spray paint.
Short hands, those with short forearms, are good for grafting onto things. The two hands below are short hands grafted onto
pieces of driftwood. Just enough of the wire bundle is left sticking out of the foam to be glued into a hole drilled in the base
object. These props generally end up as graveyard or room dressing. They're also a good use for that "third" hand you were
forced to make because you made a pair of left hands.
If the hand is coming out of something, like the picture in the middle. Form the wrist bones before attaching the hand, but leave them slightly longer than they need to be. Insert the hand while the foam is still soft and conform it to the base object. After it drys in place overnight, permanently affix the hand by putting epoxy into the drilled hole.
If coming off the end of an object, like in the far right picture. Form the wrist bones after you attach the hand to the base object. This will allow you to feather and blend the wrist/forearm bones seamlessly to the base.
If the hand is coming out of something, like the picture in the middle. Form the wrist bones before attaching the hand, but leave them slightly longer than they need to be. Insert the hand while the foam is still soft and conform it to the base object. After it drys in place overnight, permanently affix the hand by putting epoxy into the drilled hole.
If coming off the end of an object, like in the far right picture. Form the wrist bones after you attach the hand to the base object. This will allow you to feather and blend the wrist/forearm bones seamlessly to the base.
If making a pair of hands, don't forget to make a right and a left hand. The wire
frames are made exactly the same, just flip one over so the thumb is on the other
side. More than once I've found myself making two of the same hand.
Look at the palms in these two hands. The one on the right is more anatomically correct. The one on the left is just going with what looked good at the time.
Does it matter? Probably not. In the dim light of the graveyard, who's gonna call you out for not having the correct number and placement of the bones?
Well, there is that rude, smart alec kid with the flashlight. But he's not getting any candy anyway...so hooey.
Look at the palms in these two hands. The one on the right is more anatomically correct. The one on the left is just going with what looked good at the time.
Does it matter? Probably not. In the dim light of the graveyard, who's gonna call you out for not having the correct number and placement of the bones?
Well, there is that rude, smart alec kid with the flashlight. But he's not getting any candy anyway...so hooey.
Long hands, those with long forearm bones, are good for coming out of tubes and such, like the haunted tree limb in the
picture on the right. What?!? You don't have a haunted tree? Check out Uncle Binley's Monster Mud Tree Pillars over at
HauntProject's Monster Mud page. You'll want one.
Pinch the foam between your fingers and push it against the palm to form a knuckle.
It's usually better to start with the middle finger and work your way out. This way you're not trying to work over and around a finger you just finished, possibly damaging it as you work on the new finger.
It's usually better to start with the middle finger and work your way out. This way you're not trying to work over and around a finger you just finished, possibly damaging it as you work on the new finger.