Australian
Shepherd
(Aussie)
Topics in order: Temperament Breed History Colors
Australian Shepherd or Border Collie (picture section)
Sub topics: How can I tell if I'm buying an Aussie or a Border Collie?
Herding Ability - Aussie or Border Collie?
TEMPERAMENT
The Australian Shepherd is an intelligent, medium-sized dog with
strong herding and guardian instincts. He is a delightful, loyal
companion and a great family dog. He loves to be included in the
daily routine, and enjoys riding in the vehicle just to be with
his family. As a farm dog, he diligently carries out his
responsibilities, be it bringing in the stock or finding a
stray. Easy to train, easy to housebreak, and eager to please.
Aussie are often used to work cattle or horses. The fact the dog
excels as a cattle dog makes them ideal for our diverse farm and
ranch operations. Although an aggressive, authoritative worker,
viciousness toward people or animals is intolerable. Aussie work
well with sheep but you have to be ready to tell them to "Back
off." The Aussie works more by nipping or barking, than the
Border Collie who is calmer, more refined.
Aussie have been used in Search and Rescue, Drug Detection, and
Hearing and Handicap work. In the northern areas they have also
been used as sled dogs. The Australian Shepherd is a highly
versatile dog. Though the original purpose as a working dog, is
still maintained across America on ranches and
farms.
The Aussie is a very active dog that needs a great deal of
exercise on a daily basis to prevent him from become bored or
frustrated and developing destructive habits. Because of their
high energy level, combined with high intelligence, Aussie need
to be given a "job" to perform, be it shepherding the children,
protecting the house, herding livestock or competing in dog
events.
One of the most frequent reasons Aussie are turned over to Rescue
Groups, is because their owners didn't realize how much energy
the breed has, and weren't willing to channel that energy through
training. We don't recommend them as an apartment dog. Aussie are
also quite demanding of their owners' time and attention and want
to be constantly with them. Following them from room to room in
the house, and going along in the car or truck on errands. They
can be highly territorial and protective of their masters'
possessions, which can cause serious difficulties unless
controlled with proper training.
COLORS
The only recognized colors are blue merle, red merle, solid black, and solid red. Blue merle and blacks have black noses and eye rims while red merle and reds have liver (brown) noses and eye rims. All colors may be with or without white and/or copper trim on the face, chest, front and rear legs. The outer coat is of moderate length, with a texture that is straight to wavy and weather resistant. The undercoat is soft and dense, and the amount varies with climate. Tails are naturally bobbed or docked. Ears are moderately sized, and break forward and over, or the side as rose ears. Males weigh about 50 to 65 pounds, measuring from 20 to 23 inches. Females weigh about 40 to 55 pounds, measuring from 18 to 21 inches.
The Australian Shepherd is an incredibly diverse breed in its variety of color patterns and combinations. This is probably one of the most attractive and unique features of our breed. Especially in the merle colors, no two dogs look just alike! Because of this diversity, many people do not understand what each color is and why they occur the way they do. Hopefully I can will help answer some of these questions.
ASCA Breed Standard as it
refers to color:
"COLOR: All colors are strong, clear and rich. The
recognized colors are blue merle, red (liver) merle, solid black, and solid red
(liver) all with or without white markings and/or tan (copper) points with no
order of preference. The blue merle and black have black pigmentation on nose,
lips and eye-rims. Reds and red merles have liver pigmentation on nose, lips and
eye rims. Butterfly nose should not be faulted under one year of age. On all
colors the areas surrounding the ears and eyes are dominated by color other than
white. The hairline of a white collar does not exceed the point at the withers.
There are four different recognized basic body colors: Blue merle, black, red merle and red. Each of these colors may then also have trim color of white and/or tan (copper). The amount of white or tan (copper) trim can vary greatly by each individual and is controlled by the action of separate genes than those that control the basic body color.
Blue Merle: A dog with a grey base coat with black
spotting or merling.
The merling can appear anywhere from distinct, clean-edged spots to jagged,
swirling patches. The amount of merling varies greatly from individual to
individual and may be anywhere from a dog that is almost solid grey with a very
few small black spots to a dog that is almost entirely black with small lacings
of grey. Some individuals are very evenly marked, while others may have small
spots on one side of the body with the other almost entirely covered by a single
large spot. Some even have a checkerboard look with a line drawn at the middling
from head to tail and alternating spots of merle or solid on opposite sides. No
particular pattern is preferred over the other, allowing for the wonderful
diversity of our breed.
The grey base coat color can vary from a very pale,
light grey to a very dark grey, so dark that the black spots are not as well
defined and noticeable. Occasionally the grey base color will darken with age
causing a very dark base coat color as an older adult. Occasionally a blue merle
will have some merle spots that are an off-black color or even have a brown
cast. These spots are usually referred to as diluted spots. They are generally
not preferred by breeders, especially if the diluted spots detract from the
overall appearance of the dog, but some people enjoy the varied pattern that
they create. A blue merle with no trim color is generally referred to as a self
merle.
Blue merles can also have white and/or tan (copper)
trim. The blue merle has black eye rims, nose and lips. The nose and lips may
show some pink mottling, especially if there is a white blaze. Pink spots on the
nose is called a "butterfly nose" and is faulted after one year of age. Many
times pups are born with pink noses and within a day, tiny black spots begin
forming and each day grow in size until the nose completely colors in. On some
individuals, it may take up to two years for the nose to completely fill, while
on others the pink never completely fills. If an individual has a solid pink
nose, it is called a "dudley nose" and is considered a disqualification. A nose
with this coloration is usually very sensitive to the sun and sunburns easily,
leading to the possibility of cancer.
Ticking (small spots of color) can occur in the white
trim of a blue merle. The ticking can be grey, black or tan (copper) in color.
It is not to be confused with merling and it is caused by a separate gene. A dog
with ticking will be born with clear white trim and the ticking spots will
appear and increase in size and numbers with age. Generally by 6 months most of
the ticking has appeared.
Black: A dog that is
solid black with no evidence of merling.
A black can have white and/or copper trim. If a black
has only white trim, it is a black bicolor (meaning two colors). If a black has
only tan trim, it is a black and tan. If a black has white and tan (copper)
trim, it is a black tricolor (meaning three colors). Ticking can occur in the
white trim of a black and would be black or tan (copper). It is not to be
confused with merling. One thing to keep in mind is that in rare instances, the
ticking can continue to increase with age (usually until about 6 months) until
the trim white appears grey. This is not merling and is caused by a separate
gene. The black dog also has black eye rims, nose and lips. The same information
on butterfly nose and dudley nose applies to the black as well.
Occasionally a black will have a lighter undercoat
that may appear evenly throughout the whole coat or be confined to patches,
especially on the sides or back of the neck, from the withers to behind the
shoulder, down the spine or around the tail and feathering of the back legs.
Sometimes this undercoat can be a grey or tan (copper) color. This also should
not to be confused with merling.
Red merle: A dog that
has a cream colored base coat with liver or red-colored spotting or merling.
The base coat can be anywhere from a very light pale
off-white cream color to a dark buff. Occasionally the red merle color can also
darken with age with the base coat becoming darker and the merling less
discernible. The same patterns of color appear in the red merle as do in the
blue merle, but that is where the similarity ends. The red merle has no black on
it whatsoever. The merling spots on the red merles can be found in shades
ranging from an orange-like color, to mahogany red like that found on an Irish
Setter (reference here to the Irish Setter is given only to compare a shade of
red and not the color pattern actually found in that breed), to the dark liver,
almost brown-red as found on a German Shorthair. Diluted spots also occur in
reds, but it is not as noticeable because it is a lighter shade of red and
doesn't take on the brassy tones of the diluted spots on the blues. (Note: Keep
in mind that the breed standard calls for all colors to be "strong, clear and
rich.")
Ticking can also occur in the white trim of a red merle. The ticking can be
cream/buff, liver/red or tan (copper). It is not to be confused with merling.
The same information on butterfly nose and dudley nose applies to the red merle
as well.
Red: A dog that is solid
liver or red with no evidence of merling.
A red can have white and/or copper trim. If a red has
only white trim, it is a red bicolor. If it has only tan (copper) trim, it is a
red and tan. If a red has white and tan (copper) trim, it is a red tricolor.
Ticking also occurs in the white trim of the reds and it would be liver/red or
tan (copper). It is not to be confused with merling. Just as with the black, the
ticking can in rare instances increase to the point of looking like merling, but
it is not. A red also has no black on it whatsoever. The red can also be found
in a wide range of colors from the lighter, more orange shade, to the mahogany
red, to the dark liver red as indicated for the red merles. The red dog also has
liver or red eye rims, nose and lips, and the same information on butterfly nose
and dudley nose, applies to the red as well.
The red can also occasionally have a lighter, sometimes cream or tan (copper) colored undercoat that may appear evenly throughout the whole coat or be confined to patches as that described for the black, but also should not to be confused with merling.
Eye Color: The eyes of the Australian Shepherd are perhaps one of his most commented on features because of the variety of colors. Blue merles and red merles may have anywhere from light brown (amber) eyes to dark brown eyes. They also may have blue eyes, marbled or flecked blue/brown eyes, one blue and one brown eye, or any combination with no preference of color. Blacks and red also may have anywhere from light brown (amber) eyes to dark brown. Some do have blue eyes or one blue and one brown, but generally the eyes are solid colored, not marbled, with no preference of color.
Trim color: There are
two acceptable trim colors on the Australian Shepherd. All recognized colors can
be found with or without trim colors with no preference. The trim color called
tan (copper) points can be found on the muzzle, "shepherd spots" above the eyes,
patches on either side of the chest and all four feet and legs. It can also be
found on some individuals around the rectum and on the insides of the ears. The
amount of tan trim varies from individual to individual, and may depend on how
much white the individual also has. The tan trim can vary in color from a
lighter tan to a very deep, rich "copper" color.
The second trim color is white. The
amount of white also varies from individual. In order to describe trim white,
this description is of a fully-trimmed individual. All individuals can, of
course, have less white. An Aussie can have a white blaze that extends from the
chin, around the nose and muzzle, continuing up between the eyes and can extend
over the top of the backskull, meeting a collar on the back of the neck. The
collar can be a full ring around the neck, extending from the base of the skull
and ears to the withers. From the side it can extend along the line of the jaw
and run from the point of the withers in sort of a diagonal to the point of the
shoulder. Looking at the dog from the front, the collar can extend from the
chin, down the throat, chest and belly. When viewed from the side, the belly
white should not extend from the underside of the belly on to the dog's sides.
The front legs can be fully white, usually up to the elbow but can extend up the
front side of the leg to meet the collar. The rear legs can have white to the
point of the hock joint and form a thin line along the stifle, but it should not
extend into the body color. A white body splash would be white in any other
areas of the body than described here. (Note: The Australian Shepherd is a
herding breed. In all colors, structure and sound movement should be the most
important concern. A structurally sound, superior individual that is solid black
should be more desirable than a beautifully marked black individual with a
blaze, collar and stockings. This example would apply to all colors.)
BREED
HISTORY
While there are many theories as to the origin of the Australian
Shepherd, the breed as we know it today developed exclusively in
the United States. The Australian Shepherd was given its name
because of their association with the Basque sheepherders who
came to the United States from Australia in the 1800's. Sheep
were imported from France, Spain, England, New Zealand and
Australia. In the western United States the Basque shepherd and
his little blue dogs came to represent sheepherding as much as
the Scotsman and his Collie in Britain.
In Australia their are dogs similar to the Aussie called German
Collies. Other breeds have been observed in the above countries
exhibiting some of our Aussie characteristics. Although their
exact origin is unknown, there is no doubt the breed was
developed in the western United States. Their inherent
versatility and trainability made them useful on American farms
and ranches. The American stock men continued the development of
the breed, maintaining the versatility, keen intelligence, strong
herding instinct and eye catching appearance. Docking the tail (cutting it off,
usually performed at 3 days old) has a purpose. The tail was docked on order to
keep wolves from grabbing the Aussie from behind. Then being strung out, when a
second wolf would get a hold of the nose.
Australian Shepherds have been registered by various registries
since the early 1950's. The
first official Meeting to Organize the Australian Shepherd Club of America known
as ASCA was June 9,1957. For a time ASCA used the registration numbers to
register the dogs from National Stockdog Registry or NSD a Division
of the International English Shepherd Registry Inc.
In 1990, the United States Australian
Shepherd Association was established as the parent club of the
Australian Shepherd representing the breed to the American Kennel
Club. On September 1, 1991, the AKC recognized the Australian
Shepherd breed and on January 1, 1993, accepted them into the
Herding Group.
The Australian Shepherd is normally develops a strong attachment to the person and family he is with. Some Aussies are friendly with other people but many are not interested in having anything to do with other people. We have Aussies that there are people they like, and people they don't like. We have no control over it.
The ASCA Breed Standard states, “reserved with strangers but does not exhibit shyness“. The Breed Standard also says, “primarily a working dog of strong herding and guardian instincts.”
Many Aussies develop a territorial attitude over their people and property and are protective. These traits can be varied by environment. Dogs without very much exposure to people are more likely to become devoted to only one person or family and are more likely to become territorial. A naturally reserved dog taken to obedience classes and out often among people will become much friendlier than he would be in another more isolated environment.
Reserved is not to be confused with timid. A reserved dog is not afraid, he simply prefers not to associate with strangers. A timid or shy dog is afraid. The environment is very important to develop the type of personality you want. A reserved dog may never be overly friendly with strangers, but he will tolerate them. A naturally friendly dog will not become a real guard dog, but some friendly dogs will be surprisingly protective if a real threat to their family exists.
It is generally accepted that the working instinct is a refined version of the hunting instinct that exists in wolves. The instinct to circle livestock, grip, use eye and intensity all can be seen in the stalking of game by wild canines.
The dog retains much of the pack instinct which should be used in his training and development. The pack operates with a definite pecking order. The pack leader has absolute control. If you watch a wolf mother on film, punishment to the young or submissive pack members comes harshly and quickly. Just as quickly, it is over. Remember this in your training. To live with your dog and to train him, you must be the pack leader. Dogs see you as a member of the pack, it is what they know. The same as a horse sees you as a member of the herd. A dog that is considered a “hard dog” is one that was born with the natural ability to be a pack leader. A “soft dog” did not inherit those qualities.
The pack leader is in charge always, so it is very important that you take that role. You want to be the one who runs the show at home and when working together. With horses, you take the ground from the horse. Move to its spot and make it move elsewhere. With a dog, during discipline look the dog in the eye. And, you be the last one to look away. Even if this means you turn their head. Watch how a mother disciplines a pup. You have to do the same. As with all animals, you have to be the dominate one, the pack, herd, or flock leader. Of course common sense must enter into the scene. I'm not going to go challenge a 2,500 lb bull, because I want his hay, or his shade.
Australian Shepherd or Border Collie
The Aussie, like all livestock working breeds, has traits and instincts that are unique to the breed. Working breeds are generally categorized as “strong eyed” and “loose eyed”. Loose eyed dogs work pretty much in an upright position fairly close to the stock.
Strong eyed dogs often work in a crouch or “stalking position” with an intense “stare” on the stock. This is the Border Collies classic approach.
They often work farther out away from the stock.
The Aussie is generally considered a loose eyed breed. This does not mean that there are not Aussies that use some eye to control stock or that they will never drop their head into a moderate “stalking position” when approaching stock. If you watch the different breeds work livestock you will see there are definite moves and traits that are typical of one breed or the other. Generally the looser eyed dogs are more effective on cattle and the strong eyed dogs are most effective on sheep, even within a given breed. But no absolute statements can be made!
Twin Oaks II Turbo Booster (Australian Shepherd)
An Australian Shepherd puppy chosen to be a working stock dog requires much of the same care and development as any other puppy. All puppies should have proper diet, preventive medical care, parasite control, a dry clean place to live and interaction with humans.
How can I tell if I'm buying an Aussie or a Border Collie?
Aussies may appear to be Border Collies without tails to those unfamiliar with each breed. Generally, Border Collies are lighter and smaller in stature than Australian Shepherds. The most common Border Collie color is Black Bi. Border collies can be many more color combinations than Australian Shepherds. Temperament-wise, the Border collie is more flighty, a workaholic, and far more energetic. It has a different working style than the Australian Shepherd. It has been said that a good rancher has both breeds, "the Border Collie works better from distances, and the Aussie supplies the punch."
So, how do you tell the Aussie and which is the Border Collie? The lack of a tail is not an indication. There are Australian Shepherds that have not had their tails docked. The European Standard is NOT to dock tails nor crop ears on some breeds. Which one seems to be a more massive dog? In other words, which looks like it has more substance? The Aussie is usually the correct answer. If you look at the heads, Border Collies tend to have the pointed ears, and you will see a type difference.
Make sure you are buying an Aussie. We know of breeders that sell Border Collies as Australian Shepherds. We have had owners show up with their "Australian Shepherd", only to find out from us that it is a Border Collie. A good breeder will have DNA results on both parents. If your going to pay for a purebred dog, make sure that it is purebred. Some breeders with multiple litters will trade pups from one to the other. For instance take a pup from unregistered parents and place it in a litter of registered parents. Then, register the entire litter. DNA will stop this. Ask for these results on any registered dog we sell.
Herding Ability
There are some distinctions to both good stockdog breeds, no matter what color his coat is. Here are just a few points.
The Border Collie was developed in the Highlands of Scotland to work sheep which were often very wild and were small-bodied and very fast on their feet. A man or dog approaching from a very long distance was cause enough for them to get nervous. This country was high hills and was not fenced. The shepherds needed a dog that was very fast, and could run way around out of sight of the sheep and sneak up behind them and then bring them to the shepherd often controlling the sheep's movements from a long ways off by staring at them the way a predator like a wolf would. The Border Collie would bring the sheep to the shepherd and help the shepherd catch one if it needed medical attention or whatever.
The Aussie was developed by ranchers in the western U.S. to do a number of different things including working sheep, but also horses, cattle, goats, hogs, ducks, geese, you name it. When the Australian Shepherd did work sheep it was not like the Highlands it was large flocks numbering in the thousands which called for a dog that was upright and moving at a good pace and sometimes barking to get these huge flocks of sheep moving. The Border Collies predatory stare at 500 sheep's rear ends is not going to have any effect. Likewise when range cattle must be moved and they don't want to move, staring at them just isn't the answer. Moving cattle through pens, alleyways and chutes calls for more than that stare Border Collie's are famous for, it calls for a bite on the heels.
Twin Oaks II Kayak (Australian Shepherd)
Today we find Border Collie trialing becoming so popular, some dogs never do any
real work. The breed is starting to run into some problems with weak dogs. 3-Sheep Trial
dogs look very pretty working at a trial, very limited
as to what they can do. Take them to a ranch, and they limited to what they can
do. There are certainly ranch-bred Border Collie's which are as gritty
as an Australian Shepherd but you will not usually see them at a trial. Our
Border Collie Bandit is such a dog, as was his partner Rope.
Both the Australian Shepherd and the Border Collie are becoming more popular with people who don't work the dogs on livestock and use them for other purposes. Some believe will cause the breeds to either split (that's why we have 70 lb Aussies ) or the breeds to be ruined as working dogs.
Australian Shepherd
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