Cattle

This page isn't going to tell you a whole lot about raising beef cattle. I am more into raising cattle for roping and looking at. What's that mean? I like to chase cattle, I like to rope cattle, and if I didn't do either of those? Well, that's where the looking at comes in. Don't get me wrong. I raise and sell cattle, I am not in it for the beef.

These young Brahman bulls are Pharlane's Little Rock & Clay

Breeds that I like are:

Brahman,  Which was developed in the Southwest from several strains of Indian cattle imported between 1854 and 1926, and from imports from Brazil.

Brahman are easily recognized by the large hump over the neck and shoulders, and the large droopy ears. The most common colors are solid gray or solid red. The Brahman breed originated from Bos indicus cattle originally brought from India. Through centuries of exposure to inadequate food supplies, insect pests, parasites, diseases and the weather extremes of tropical India, the native cattle developed some remarkable adaptations for survival. Brahman have loose saggy skin with sweat glands and the ability to sweat freely through the pores of the skin, which contributes materially to their heat tolerance. They can walk long distances to water and these cattle thrive where other types of cattle, at best, merely survive.
These are the "sacred cattle of India," and many of the Hindu faith will not eat meat from them, will not permit them to be slaughtered, and will not sell them. India has more cows than any other country. They are nearly all Brahman, the most popular breed in the world.
Brahman are actually very friendly. And with their back higher then most people are tall, often are called "Gentle Giants".

Hereford,  Produced by crossing red, white-faced Dutch cattle with small black English cattle.

Braford is a crossbreed Brahman and Hereford.

Texas Longhorn,  This breed descended from wild cattle left by Spanish settlers in the American southwest.

  Handling and Behavior

  Cattle are intelligent and curious, able to figure things out and not just relying on instinct. They have good memories and a certain amount of adaptability. This makes them very trainable. If handled consistently, they learn what to expect from you, and what you expect from them. The more you learn about cattle and their behavior, the better you can care for them.
  Some cattle are smarter that others. Some are more mellow and less easily alarmed; others more nervous and wild. A nervous or wild individual can be tolerated if it's smart enough to be trainable. Learning your not a threat, and if the proper routine is followed it will not be hurt.

As a Pet

  Don't let an animal lose respect for you. Don't spoil a favorite cow or an orphan calf that becomes a pet. NEVER make a pet of a young bull. Cattle think of you as one of the herd, so you must be the dominate one. The bovine nature is to be bossy and pushy. Don't let the animal become aggressive, lacking in fear or respect. If you start getting shoved or bunted with its head, discipline with a swat or twist an ear. You want the animals trust, but don't let it lose respect for your dominance.

Understand pecking order

  Pecking order is an important fact of like for herd animals. You have to think as the animal your trying to handle will. The first thing to understand is that your being seen as, and thought of as a member of that animals herd. The most aggressive member is "top dog"; getting first choice of feed, water, even where to stand, sit or lay. Other herd members fight to determine who is next in the pecking order. Most serious fights are among the lower-ranking animals trying to move up to a better social position. Top animals rarely defend their title because they have respect. They have mind control over others. What you NEED to be is that "Top Dog". Also keep in mind what  the pecking order for a certain herd may be. You can avoid conflicts by spreading out feed so lower ranking individuals can find space to eat. Don't locate salt and water in a fence corner. Feed the "second in command" (remember your first) before lower-ranking animals if possible.

  Moving Cattle

  When you round up cattle, move them from pasture to pasture, through corrals, chutes, into working pens. If you move them with the least stress and effort, it will be not only easier on you but the cattle. If handled properly they will develop a response pattern that will make future moves easier. Use patience, consistency, and understanding. Try to minimize excitement, agitation and use of electric prods. Working cattle quietly and sensibly is preferred to too much yelling, chasing, and dogging (sending in the dogs). All this can get them very excited. causing cows to crash into, through and over fences, gates, other cattle, you, your horse, well you get the picture. 

  When to get the Dogs

Sometimes it's better to leave the dogs home, or at least in the truck. Dogs can be counterproductive, upsetting or distracting to the cattle. A good dog or two is useful in a large pasture, but can cause real problems in a corral situation. The exception being if the dog is exceptionally well trained. Dogs tend to worry the cattle, putting them on the fight. Sometimes the cattle spend more time, and expend more energy chasing a dog than making for the corral. And when that one cow that wants to fool around. Finally, starts getting it for the corral. You had better hope its watching you at the gate, and not looking back at the dog on its heals. Man, that really hurts when a cow runs you over. (big time hurt, lots of pain)

The Basics

Avoid yelling or running, don't try to move them from the rear, approach from behind the shoulder. Move them at a slow walk. Concentrate on the leaders, where they go, the others follow. Get the herd moving before trying to take them in a certain direction. Approach at an angle to start them. Once the leaders are moving, stay with them, just behind the leaders' shoulder. The herd will stay together if you work quietly; stragglers usually follow.

Moving Cattle over Distances

If driving cattle a long ways, drift them at their own speed in a long string rather than in a big, tight bunch. It's their nature to follow a leader single-file; this causes the least amount of stress and avoids the problem of a big bunch milling around in a trail or roadway with no leaders.
 

  Buying and Selling

Starting out right: Get the Best

  If your going to buy a weaned calf, it's probably best to buy two. Two calves will keep each other company; be easier to handle; be more relaxed; gain weight better; graze more, and worry less. Get one  that is bright and alert with a good frame and lots of muscle, not thin and scrawny.

  You can buy from an auction, and we have, but know what your doing. Get there early and look at the types of cattle going through. Get an idea of the prices for the age and size you want. If your not sure of yourself, take along someone who is.

  Avoid buying a calf with a runny nose, cough, runny eyes, droopy ears, or dull attitude. If you bring home a sick calf, the extra stress of being handled, hauled, and separated from herd mates may make him sicker, with risk of losing him. Buy a calm animal, why get something wild and snorty unless your into animals that explode on you. Good for riding, bad for working. Get a steer over a bull. And get a calf already weaned, it's so much easier. You might want to do the bottle feeding thing, and that's fun for a couple of days but it gets old quick. You want low stress, not a frantic calf pacing, bawling, not eating, and just trying to get back to mama. This just invites illness especially if it's cold, windy, or dry and dusty.

  Buying from a farmer lets you deal directly with the person who raised them. You are able to take more time to look at the cattle and ask questions. Find out about shots, what they've had and when. Check out the farm, what does the farmers herd look like and the type of cattle he raises. Are they wild or gentle.

  It's usually best to start with heifers (a young female that hasn't had a calf) or young cows. Sometimes you can get a good buy on older cows, if their not too old and still sound, and are bred to good bulls. If you can get several more calves from them, they will more than pay for themselves. Older cows are proven: they will calve more easily, and will mother their calves.

    Quick Tips and Notes
 

Extra Cold   --  Extra Hay  A good winter coat is great, but they need feed to generate heat. Otherwise more of the animals energy is spent trying to keep warm and the weight drops. Next thing you know you've got a sick critter on your hands. Forage (hay) creates more body heat than grain.

Don't  graze exceptionally wet and muddy pastures, move them to a new pasture or a corral and off pasture on a small outfit, before you overgraze a pasture. Keep the good forage growing year after year. Give the field a rest.

Roping  --  Big Horns, Big Loop

 Note: I really like working cattle. I use Arabian Horses for moving and roping. All cattle we rope wear horn wraps. This is a sturdy cloth that goes around the horns and prevents rope burn. As I stated on an earlier page, I would just ride and do horse shows. But this is what it's all about, Horses and Cattle, Cattle and Horses. The horse pacing in the chute, the quick jump into the chase, the swing of the rope, and hopefully the catch. The smell of horse and cattle. The feel of a horse under you working a stray. A great horse and partner, friends around the fire at night. Curley said it best (City Slickers) "There's nothing like bringing in the herd."

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