Oregon Wine Trip

06/18/09 - 06/27/09

Continental Airlines - Budget Rental Van

Clay & Pat Stahl, Michele Heaton, Dick Demchak, Ed Bohrer

Oregon

Washington

Thursday, 06/18 Drive to Newark

We are staying overnight adjacent to the Newark airport in a hotel that provides parking, to make the morning trip as easy as possible, and we left mid-day to avoid the rush hour traffic. It was a straight-forward drive to Newark on RT1 and the New Jersey Turnpike in intermittent heavy rain with a lunch stop in New Brunswick. Although the hotel is adjacent to the airport, the only access is from Southbound RT1, so it required a circle past the airport on the Turnpike to get on RT1 South. We had planned to go to a nice restaurant in town, but with the heavy rain and tricky hotel access, we just had dinner in the spartan hotel dining room.

Friday, 06/19 Flight & Portland

After leaving our car keys at the hotel desk, we boarded a van with two others for the short ride to the airport. Check in was a breeze and our single bag weighed 44.3 lbs, well under the 50 lb $15 limit, whose charge we had paid for on-line when we printed the boarding passes the day before. Even with Clay getting a good wanding down, we were at our gate a half hour total from when we left the hotel. Since we had to leave the hotel too early for the included breakfast, we had breakfast in the terminal. The plane left on time and was in the air a half hour after taxiing and waiting for the runway. The ride was somewhat bumpy for most of the flight. We had a couple of wines with the included mundane snack, and again received kudos for our wine glasses. We always pack the small glasses never knowing what security will do, but no problem up to this time.

We Left Newark On Time		Circular Irrigation System Farm Field

In Portland, we decided to take a taxi to the hotel, even though it was a little expensive. After two interstates amid heavy midday traffic, the driver pulled along side our hotel. As he retrieved our suitcase from the trunk, a porter from the hotel immediately took our bag in, and another wanted to take Pat's hand luggage, until she noticed that he was from the wrong hotel! The first porter promptly retrieved it and gave it to a porter from our hotel.

It is a Kimpton Hotel, the appropriately named Vintage Plaza, centrally located, and we were checked in with no problem. We inquired about free Internet access and yes, if you are a Kimpton Member! However if you are staying at the hotel, you can easily become a member by submitting an on-line form which will probably generate some spam sooner or later. Actually, it was exactly 2 weeks before the spam arrived! We were also informed that there is a wine tasting every evening at 5PM in the lobby!

It is still early afternoon and we set out looking to have a light lunch and headed for a place on the Portland map in the middle of the block that was labeled "brewery." Walking around most of the block, we finally found Henry's 12th Street Tavern. It is state-of-the-art bar with large screen TVs, a frozen drink rail on the bar, and 100(!) beers on tap. While having a cup of soup,

A Brewery Until 1999, Now a State Of the Art Tavern With 100 Beers On Tap!   Listed On the U.S. Register of Historic Places

and watching the rain-plagued U.S. Open, it started to rain really heavy, so we waited that out with another. We wanted to get a few snacks for the room and asked if there was a nearby grocery store and also how is wine sold in Oregon. We are in luck, because just across the street was the upscale Whole Food Market, with an excellent selection of wines.

Back at the hotel, we were just in time for the complementary wine tasting. There were 4 wines, an Oregon Pinot Gris, an Oregon Pinot Noir, a Washington Merlot, an Australian something-or-other, and a hotel kitchen-produced pitcher of Sangria. We were talking with another couple and Dick showed up just in time to have a couple of the amply poured glasses!

The Hotel was Chosen By Michele for Location and Price, But With a Wine Tasting Each Evening as the Name Implies, It Was the Perfect Place

After Dick found his pre-shipped luggage and checked in, we set out for dinner. The porter hailed a cab and we told the driver we wanted to go to the Rogue Ales Public House that we had previously noted on our map was only a dozen blocks away, but he never heard of it! We didn't have the address or map with us, but with more than a little effort, the porter earned his tip finding an address, and the driver deposited us there after a short ride. We put our name in for a table and went to the bar, ordered a drink, and promptly decided that the bar table wasn't that bad and we would save time and have our meal there.

Brewery is in Ashland, Southwest of Here.   There Are British-Style Public Houses in Many Northwest Cities.   We Were At One in San Francisco

It was a busy day, and our body times are three hours later, so we just got a cab back to the hotel, and turned in fairly early.

Saturday, 06/20 Portland

We met Dick for breakfast in the hotel restaurant and perused the dinner menu and wine list, both looking very nice, both very Italian, and both very expensive! Back in our room, we watched the golf waiting for Dick to discuss the day's brewery tour agenda. There are more than 25 craft breweries earning Portland the nickname, "Munich on the Willamette." Michele arrived late last night, but isn't interested in the breweries and she telephoned us that she was heading out for breakfast and craft market stops, and would meet us for the 5PM wine tasting in the hotel lobby.

Dick arrived to discuss our self scheduled brewpub tour. He was in touch with a man that does organized(?) brewery tours, but since he couldn't come up with a schedule, we would have to take a taxi across town to meet the tour start, and Dick got the idea that he may be a willing participant in the imbibing, we decided to forgo that in favor of doing it on our own. After walking a few blocks from our hotel to our first scheduled brewpub arriving about 10 minutes before the 11 o'clock time we thought they opened. However it didn't open until 4PM, although we swore that it was supposed to open at 11. Of course we were wrong and thought that maybe setting out on our own wasn't the way to go. However, we were wrong on both counts, as a later perusal on the Internet verified that it opens at 4PM, but we did great after that first misstep.

Gourmet Foods and Many Oregon Wines	We Walked the Upscale Pearl District	Shang Dynasty Replica, a Goodwill Gift From China

We set out for the next brewpub, passing through the delightful Pearl District, an area of former warehouses, light industry, and now noted for its restaurants, art galleries, upscale businesses and residences.

The Deschutes Brewery Started in Bend, Oregon in 1998 With This Location Opening in 2008.   Notice the Paparazzi Reflected on the right!

We found the next brewpub and it was open, still walking (Portland has the highest density of brewpubs in the US). Deschutes had a good variety, was sparsely populated and as it still being morning, we sat at the bar, Clay had an India Pale Ale and Dick and Pat a Honey Weiss while we watched some more golf on TV.

The Portland Streetcar, and As the Sign Says Free In Fareless(!) Square, the Dashed Line On the Map

We mentioned to the server that we were going to the next brew pub and she suggested that we take the Portland Streetcar. We asked her if they take cash, and she said that she thinks it is free, and it was for the section of the city that we were in. When we got on there was only one seat free, and two people immediately stood up, one for Dick, and one for Clay. We commented "That would never happen in Philadelphia!"

Appropriate Streetcar Stop	The Beer List With IBUs & ABVs	The Brewery's Birth, Not George Orwell's Novel

With another friendly passenger suggesting a place to get off the streetcar, saving us a block or so, we found the Bridgeport Brewery just in time for lunch. Clay & Pat were happy to see moules and frites on the menu with Clay again drinking an India Pale Ale while Pat had wine. Also again the U.S. Open golf was on TV and we had a leisurely lunch.

The Old Lompoc Brewery Dates to 1996, The New Old Brewery Opened in 2000		Auto Rear Window: "My Heart Is In Oregon"

Now we are experts on the Portland Streetcar and retraced our steps and rode for a few more stops to the Old New (It reinvented itself!) Lompoc Brewery. This was the farthest point from our hotel and still involved a half dozen or so block walk. This was more like an English pub with a small bar and booths tucked in among the tables. Back at the streetcar stop, Clay noticed that route map at the shelter seemed to have us outside the area where the streetcar is free, but no one said anything and no one else seemed to have a ticket or pass!

A City of Books	Sell/Enjoy the Book!	The Largest Used and New Bookstore in the World, Occupying an Entire City Block

A few blocks from our hotel is Powell's, Book Store, the largest used and new bookstore in the world. It occupies an entire city block, and has 9 color coded rooms with 3,500 different sections, including many out-of-print titles. The City's Rare Book Room has autographed first editions and other collectibles. Powell's also purchases over 3000 used books a day from the public and also special collections, libraries, and other bookstore inventories. About 3000 people a day buy something and another 3000 just browse or drink World Cup coffee. Pat and Dick both bought a book, but it is overwhelming and a tourist attraction in itself!

Wine Tasting Again In The Hotel Lobby, This Time With Michele.   Elderhostel Ladies on the Right Were There Last Evening Also

We again attended the wine tasting and noticed that Michele was not there yet, but from a cell phone call, we were assured that she was nearby and arrived soon after. The wines were somewhat similar to yesterday's with the same assistant manager doing the again ample pouring. Michele showed the jewelry she purchased at the craft markets and told us about meeting a couple for breakfast and getting some lifts around town.

Admire, Don't Drink!   Pets OK!	Hanging Baskets All Over	Unusual Sculpture	Dinner Restaurant Close By

We had no firm plans for dinner but a listing in the Portland Visitor Map and Guide from the front desk had the Red Star only a few blocks from the hotel and featured a "Celebration of American Cuisine." Dick had fish, and the other three a small fillet. With an Oregon Pinot Gris and a Washington Cabernet, everyone pronounced the meal first class.

Irish Bar Also Not Too Far From Our Hotel.   With Irish Music Yet!   It Was Packed, But We Got In Before the Cover Charge!

Pat had noticed in the same brochure that Kells Irish Restaurant and Pub was only few blocks away. The listing stated that it was the #1 Irish bar in the nation, but more importantly featured Irish Music nightly! We got our wrists stamped in the way in(?) and got a couple of drinks, while standing near the bar. We were a little early, but while nursing our drinks we did hear some Irish music. Seated at the bar adjacent was a young couple on vacation from Washington, and we had a nice talk. Heading out, we saw the reason for the hand stamping, as the stamper was now collecting a cover charge -- we must have arrived just under the wire.

Sunday, 06/21 Portland

Pat went to mass about a dozen blocks away, and we had a light breakfast in the hotel. Our driver was a little late for the Gorge Winery tour. It was a nice ride out and was about an hour and a half to the first stop across the Hood River Bridge (over the Columbia!) into Washington.

It Was About an Hour and a Half Ride Along Interstate 85 With Steep Cliffs on Both Sides, and Washington Across the Columbia River

All three Washington wineries are small operations, with most of the grapes purchased, some even from (gasp!) Oregon. The first was Cor, opened in 2003, a year before the Gorge was designated an AVA. It had a very small tasting room, a small plot of vines for us tourists, but a friendly server, probably the owner. She noticed during the tasting, that our driver was hovering over the hood of the car and there seemed to be something leaking. Oh well, if we are stuck, at least we are at a winery!

Our 1st: No Pinot Noir Here, Just Pinot Gris/Gewurtztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Merlot, & Cabernet Sauvignon

After the tasting, the driver said that he thinks the thermostat is faulty, and we will ride with heater on and the windows open! Not too far away still in Washington, we found Syncline, with a tasting bar in the corner of the winery building, still a small operation. Syncline is not a family name, the area is a syncline, i.e. a geological downward-curving fold in the earth's crust!

Our 2nd	Modern Winery Building...	...With the Tasting Room in a Corner	Pat Swings While The Driver Frets

We mentioned to the other two fellow tasters at Syncline that we had a picnic lunch to use at the third winery, Memaloose/McCormick. They said that Domaine Pouillon was much nicer. Not! We took them at their word, but when we arrived at Domaine Pouillon, there was a picnic table outside the tasting room, but without the wonderful view we were promised. So we beat a quick exit and went to the scheduled Memaloose/McCormick winery at Mistral Ranch. Memaloose is a native American word meaning "Dead", "Corpse", or "Death!" McCormick is the family name, and Mistral is a cool, violent, and dry wind.

The Next Winery.   Not!	Mt. Hood on the Way to The Next Winery	Appropriate Chew Toy for a "Wine Yard" Dog

Our 3rd	Similar to the Others, Small With Few Visitors	Memaloose Winery, McCormick Vineyards, Both At Mistral Ranch!

We tried to picnic on the top of the hill with a great view overlooking the Columbia River, but it was just too windy, i.e. "Mistral Ranch", so we hunkered down with the winery as a shield. The box lunches provided by the driver were fine.

Again, a Tasting Room in a Winery Corner	We Wanted to Picnic With a View, But Settled For a Calmer Place Shielded By the Winery

Probably The Owner Again	This Place Had Some Grapes	A "Birdie" House	Boccie?   Somebody's Italian!

We headed back across the Columbia River to Oregon and went South toward Mt. Hood, but we were too low to see the mountain. The Pheasant Valley Winery tasting room was a little more state-of-the art with quite a few more visitors also. And Clay got a free tasting because it is Father's Day -- a $6 present!

Our 4th	Good Sized Tasting Bar & More Tasters	Dick & Michele Bellying Up	And Through a Side Door, The Winery

A Pheasant, What Else?	Some Grapes Near The Tasting Room	Free Taste!	Unusual "Puffy" Tree

Basically, it was a wine tour of the Columbia Gorge AVA, but it would have been a shame to miss one of the best non-wine attractions in the Gorge, so we had the driver stop at Multnomah Falls on the way back. It can be seen from the road, but there is a viewing platform at the base, and a bridge halfway up. Even getting to the bridge is no piece of cake, taking about 15 minutes on a pretty good grade. It is also possible to hike to the top, but we didn't have time for that, and of course it is only for young hikers. The ride back was nice until we hit the Portland traffic. Geez, it is Sunday for Pete's sake, but we arrived in time to grab a couple of glasses at the hotel wine tasting. Ed Bohrer arrived at the hotel, completing our group for the Willamette winery tour. We took 2 taxis to Peruvian, upscale, and expensive Andina in the Pearl District. Clay, Pat, and Dick had an assortment of tapas, while Michele and Ed ordered dinners.

Great Restaurant Found by Michele		Dick's Object d'Art Truffle Dessert

Dick and Michele took a taxi back, while Clay, Pat and Ed walked. Ed peeled off at Powell's City of Books on the way back. Michele later called us in our room surprised that we were back, as she couldn't get Ed on the phone.

Monday, 06/22 to Friday 06/26 Willamette Valley

Saturday, 06/27 Flight & Drive Home

We had borrowed a hand scale from Michele and our bag seemed to be close to the 50 pounds, so we took some stuff out and put it in our carry-ons. We have a 1:30 flight, but took an early shuttle to the airport and while in line weighed the bag at a public scale and it was only 44.7 lbs! However, the counter person directed us to another place where they took the bag and nobody else weighed it -- must be their trained eyes. Clay got hell from security because he went through with his belt on. The agent took the belt to have it X-rayed(!), and said that he should have sent it through the X-ray machine with the shoes and other stuff! We never heard that before.

We had lunch at the Rogue Public House and were asked to show our IDs! We laughed, but the server was serious -- company policy! We both ordered the Kobe Burger that Rogue is famous for, but Pat declined when the server said that it will be well done. Pat got a soup and 2 glasses of the most expensive Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio we ever saw.

Rogue Brewery in the Airport, 1 Well Done Kobe Burger, 1 Soup, 2 Great Rogue Drafts, and Probably the Most Expensive Wine On the Trip!

Airplane carry-ons have always exceeded the limitation for size, but now with airlines charging for checked overweight and extra luggage, people have taken it to new heights. We still have most of ours fit under the seat in front, but many others take up much more than their share of room in the overheads.

The plane took off on time, and the flight went great but we had probably the worst snack ever on an airplane, a chicken sandwich with a terrible barbecue sauce. The airline book listed 2 sparkling wines, a white, and a red. Clay asked if a sparkling wine was available, and the attendant said maybe!? She then went to First Class and came back with a split of J.P. Chenet Brut, but she apologized because it was room temperature. She then poked holes in a plastic cup, filled it with ice, and poured the wine over the ice into my glass. It cooled it off OK, but of course diluted it and removed all of the bubbles! Anyway, the thought was there!

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Created: 07/09/09 Changed: 11/22/09

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