Trip Report – Sawyer Pond – March 13 & 14, 2004 =================================================================== Summary ------- Where: Lily Pond to Sawyer Pond via Upper Nanamacomuck and Sawyer River Trail & Sawyer Pond to Bear Notch Road via Sawyer Pond Trail and Rob Brook Road Who: Dave M, Bob M, Jim A, Karl H Temp: Highs in the 40s, lows in the teens Trail Conditions: Dust of new snow on manky refrozen, iced up and foot trampled snow, bare ground and everything in between Trip Report ----------- It is a sign of our age and time of life. We coordinated on the using e-mail, not phones, and we picked the first weekend we all had available months, not weeks, in advance. And so it came to pass that we were all basically committed to a ski trip despite a horribly lean snow year and early melting. Well, we could have bailed and spent the weekend at Crag, which is always a safe back up plan. Thankfully, Bob carried the lion’s share of the planning burden and coordinated stoves, food and ski gear. Good thing, too, since this was to be Jim’s first ski trip and access to extra skis and boots was going to be key. Bork and I cruised up from Boston leaving around 5:30 and met Bob and Jim at Dunkin’ Donuts in Concord at 7:00. After a round of hellos between old friends and more food, we drove up to the McDonalds in Lincoln to play a game of boot swap. Jim ended up in Bob’s Snowfields. Bob ended up in my Snowfields. And luckily, I ended taking my slightly heavier Futuras. After shuffling around extra socks, footbeds and orthodics, we got workable fits for everybody. We took a careful drive up over Kangamangus Pass on slick, snow covered roads under a grey windy sky that was still spitting snow and eventually got to Lily Pond where we dropped our packs and skis in the woods. We then drove together down to Bear Notch Road to spot Bork’s Jetta. We finally got back to the Lily Pond trail head by 10:00. The same snow that had delayed up slightly due to the slick driving conditions had also coated the refrozen base of snow with a thin coating of fresh. Bork, who was skiing on his waxless skis waited patiently as Jim, Bob and I futzed with our wax (about -5c, Extra Blue, worked great). The first drop down the Upper Nanamacomuck Trail is attention grabbing when skied with light gear as it is. Add a full overnight pack and grabby refrozen snow and the first mile was downright sporting. Bork, in his plastic boots and wide Alpinas made short work of it, as always. Jim looked like a pro and handled the trail well. He only had one biff – a spectacular full speed face plant at the end of a really tricky steep section. He got down the hard part, carried speed on the flat and *bam*. Consider him baptized. Bob and I pulled up the rear, as always. I could have never made it down without the aid of stiffer Futura boots as I had chosen to bring my double cambered Kazama Mountain Highs (210cm) on this trip. Their stiff tail and narrow profile made it impossible to get any sort of skidded snowplow working in the grabby snow conditions. The skis basically wanted to rail and go straaaaaiiiiiight, with me hanging on for the ride. The Upper Nanamocomuck descends in a series of drops more or less following the outlet stream from Lily Pond, first on the south side and then on the north side. There is a wooden bridge across the Swift River that was an indication of things to come. It had no snow on it at all. On the north side of the Swift, the trail follows what must be an old railroad grade for a while before skirting up to the left over a hill and back down to the right to rejoin the rail bed. All we could gather is that there was a significant washout that the trail had been rerouted around. The snow condition through this section was mostly a rough snowshoe/ski trench, which provided ok touring in a rough and rumbly sort of way. Snowshoe and foot traffic started in earnest when we picked up the intersection of the Sawyer River Trail. And this gave way to snowmobile tracks in another short distance when we left the Nanamocomuck and turned north on Sawyer River Trail. Snowmobile treads are a mixed blessing. On the plus side, there is no trail to break out. On the down side, there is no way to set tracks. So while we had a nice flat trail to work with, we had to fight to keep the skis tracking straight. Here, the skinny and otherwise rebellious Mountain Highs had a slight but noticeable advantage over the wider and flatter skis. We skied along the western bank of Meadow Brook and decided to stop for lunch in the open beaver pond area that forms the headwaters of the brook. The marshy pond was still frozen over allowing us to to get out in the open to get great views of Mount Carrigan to the north. By this time, the sky had cleared and sun was dazzling. After a lazy lunch, Bork caught up on his sleep while Bob, Jim and I changed over to red wax. I should have taken the opportunity to swap boots with Bob but, instead, waited to get down the trail another 1/2 a mile or so before broaching the subject with him. My Futuras were digging into a bone above the arch of my left foot, a problem that had resurfaced since the acquisition of my new orthodics. I had had this same problem when we skied Bolton earlier in the winter and thought I had corrected for it. But it came back with a vengeance and I knew that if I continued to ski on it like this, I would be hobbled tomorrow. Bob graciously agreed to swap boots with me, giving me back my oh-so-soft-and-cushy Snowfields. Actually, this was Bob’s first time in a stiffer boot and he claimed to be thrilled with the swap after just a few strides. Being able to point his toes and having the skis go in that direction was a new thing for him and he liked it a lot! The straight flat rail bed ended at a cross roads where the tempting Hancock Notch Trail enters from the west and a logging road/skidoo trail goes east. Having been this way before, we took the logging road up to the top of a small hill where we were treated to great view of Carrigan and the cliffs of the Captain to the north-west. After Bob and Bork took some pictures, we proceed a bit further up and then reaped the rewards of the climb with a long fast sweeping downhill run down the logging road to gate at the end of the Sawyer River Road. Yeh, that’ll burn off your wax. On thing that really stood out to me on the downhill was how important ankle-ation was to control the edging of the narrow skis with my super-soft Snowfields. This was possible because of how narrow my skis were. I found that holding my ankles stiff I could keep the edge angle more or less constant while bombing down the refrozen ski-doo track. What felt odd was not using my knees to control the edges. Interesting. After collecting ourselves at the bottom of the downhill by the bridge that crosses the Sawyer River at the beginning of the Sawyer Pond Trail, we re-waxed with copious amounts of Special Red for the upcoming climb. Having done this section of trail before, Bob and I just carried our skis for the first 1/2 mile. Jim soon saw the wisdom of this approach but Bork, amazingly kept his skis on. Personally, I think instep crampons wouldn’t have been inappropriate. At various points along the remaining climb, Jim, Bob and I were either on foot or on skis. Bork just skied up the whole trail. There were a few bare spots and rocks and roots to be negotiated and what snow that was present was pretty beaten up from the heavy foot traffic that this portion of trail gets. We made it to the pond by 3:00. The pond was, as it always is, just stunning. The cliffs of Owl Cliff and Mt. Tremont to the east and north-east where bathed in the late afternoon light above the white expanse of the pond. To our delight (and surprise) the shelter wasn’t hammered as it sometimes is in the winter. We dropped and emptied our packs and after getting settled into the shelter we had nothing to do except ski and explore. So we did. On the north end of the pond, there is a small island. It’s sort of the finishing touch on this high mountain pond setting. The ice on the pond was in ok shape with bare spots only near feeder streams, so we took a careful but fun tour around the perimeter of the pond, skiing around the small pretty island. Freed from the weight of heavy packs, it was fun to open it up a bit on snow covered ice in the warm afternoon snow. Back at the shelter, we got supper going. Jim, bearer of the stove, did the cooking. We had rice and beans, complete with 3 varieties of Tabasco sauce. We also heated and treated water and settled in to our bags as dusk gathered around the shelter and the last light of the day shone on Owl Cliff. After dinner, we checked out the stars from the pond. It was a a crystal clear night and there were so many stars in the sky that it was hard to identify common constellations like the Big Dipper and Orion. We hung the Megamid across the opening of the shelter and turned in around 7:30. One of the things I’ve come to love about winter camping is the chance to sleep for 12 hours. I also love a warm sleeping bag. It wasn’t that awful cold at night. I checked my wax thermometer throughout the night and the coldest it got was about -8C. Still, I was chilled through out the night. Best I can figure is that I had gotten a bit dehydrated and lost too much fluid. I blame Bork for this. Along with waking up frequently with the cold and the need to water the nearby foliage, we also had another thing to occupy our attention throughout the night. The pond ice was shifting. It made weird muffled booms and pops as it cracked. Some were short and sharp. Others were long and drawn out and seemed to move across the pond. Morning in Sawyer Pond shelter on a sunny morning is pretty special. The sun comes up over Owl Cliff and instantly fills the shelter with sun light. It’s like somebody turning up the thermostat. While we were a bit cold night, we could lounge around during breakfast out of bags and listening to the pond crack and groan. So, we lingered long after the we were done eating. We heated water for the day, chatted as only friends of 20 years can and generally just watched as the warmth of the spring sun warmed up this high frozen mountain pond. Speaking of the warm sun, it was clear that waxing was going to be a bit of a challenge. The thermometer showed it be a cool -3C in the shade and a warm +5C in the sun. I waxed up with a solid layer of Universal Klister covered by Special Violet. The first bit of skiing was back across the pond in the warm sun. Plenty of grip. Next, the Sawyer Pond climbs south out of the basis at a steady incline in the deep shade of the woods. The skis gripped tenaciously in the shade. At slow speeds they dragged a bit but soon the trail level off as we crossed the broad height of land under the shadow of Green’s Cliff and on the level trail, we could double pole with abandon. Here the skis were outright fast, so the wax over klister really did its job. Bork seemed to be getting hooked on speed too. Somewhere along the line he and Bob switched skis, so not he was riding on Bob’s waxed XCD Supremes. He refused to give them back for the rest of the day because of the speed increase compared to his waxless skis. Fast skis are fun skis (unless you’re stuck futzing with wax that doesn’t work). Soon it didn’t matter what wax we had on. We ran out of snow as we dropped off the height of land, descending to the south. Off came the skis and we hoofed it for about a 1/2 mile till the trail intersected the unnamed ski-doo trail that ran east to the Rob Brook road. We dropped our packs and had our lunch. While we were eating, I noticed a multi-colored flag woven out of surveyor tape. Odd, I thought. The ski-doo trail climbed slightly and then began what was supposed to be *the* downhill run of the trip. The run starts with a bang with a quick s-turn. And there was big fat bald spot in the middle of it. Jim and Bork nailed it, making great turns and threading the needle of snow on the side of the trail around the bald spot. I followed like a dog on linoleum with my narrower skis and super-soft boots. And when we rounded the final bend, we ran out of snow, again. Off came the skis. We passed another couple of the odd surveyor tape flags and somebody spotted 2 large red tarps pitched in the woods north of the trail. Maybe an orienteering competition? A bit over 1/2 of the way down, we got snow again but it was really chewed up by ski-doo traffic and parts of it were simply frozen over. Like yesterday’s downhill, the secret with the narrow skis seemed to be to edge with my ankles, not my knees. I just prayed that the narrow skis wouldn’t catch an outside edge as I rumbled along the ground up and refrozen surface. Along the way, I spotted yet another surveyor tape flag – this one with a zip-lock baggie hanging on it containing a note. I pulled up to a stop and read the note. It contained simple instructions, something along the lines of: Shelly, Monday. Put out fire. Spread and bury ashes. Spread out any extra firewood. Now I had no idea what was going on. Were the tarps somebody’s quasi-permanent camp and were notes and flags a trail to lead friends into the camp? We got our answers at the bottom of the downhill run. The ski-doo trail bottoms out at a real backcountry crossroad. Several ski-doo trails, 2 hiking trails and a forest service road all converge in the same general area. At the intersection, there was a guy and a girl sitting on a sled trailer. She was warming her feet on his stomach, or so it seemed. There was a ski-doo under a tarp, a forest of old Karhu XCD all mounted with Rottefella pins in the snow along with a mixture of other xc skis. In the woods, there were several tents and few xc skiers milling about. Turns out that they were counselors from the Holderness School, based in Plymouth. They had the Junior Class out on a 10-day trip and the students were on their 3-day solo experience. Pretty cool. Well... more about that later. Jim and I layered on some red klister, since our wax had been burned off from the downhill run on the refrozen snow, and we strode off down the Rob Brook Road to catch up with Bob and Bork. Bork had just thrown on some more of Bob’s Extra Red (glop) and Bob wasn’t letting go of Bork’s wider waxless skis and they had left down the road several minutes ago. Along the Rob Brook Road, we passed several more tape flags which we had learned marked the location of the different camps being used by the students on their solo camps. We even got to meet one of the campers. We ran into a young woman who had just received her instructions from the zip-loc bag near her flag. Me: “Hey there. You one of the campers from the school?” Her: [dejectedly] “Yah” Me: [trying to be upbeat] “So, having fun?” Her: [flatly] “It sucks.” Me: “Oh? Not having fun, huh?” Her: “I like being with the group. It’s fun when I can be my friends. But being along totally sucks.” Me: “So, is this trip mandatory?” Her: “They *say* it isn’t, but it really is.” Me: “A bit of arm twisting?” Her: “Total arm twisting.” Actually, I could see her point. They had the kids camping in the hardwoods. I mean, nice hardwoods are pretty and all but just sitting under a tarp in the woods without being able to any vistas, or a pond, or even a brook would get pretty old pretty fast. The rest of the trip was made up of decent striding on beat up snow along the forest service road. First we climbed steadily, but quickly, and then the road rolled up and down for a few miles. The telemark turn is fun. So is the parallel turn. Powder is fun. And so is good striding. The is a hypnotic quality to the rhythm that can put me into a trance of sorts, at least when wax and skis and snow are cooperating with each other. And they where this afternoon. And things worked even better by time we had skied half-way back to the car and got close enough to the road to have common use tracks. I was once again reminded that narrower skis have their advantages. I could not have skied in those tracks with anything wider than 70mm at the tip. The Rob Brook Road finishes with one last downhill. I switched skis with Jim to see how the slightly wider and flatter Synchros handled the downhill run with the floppy boots compared to skinny Mountain Highs. The difference was really noticeable as I bounced along the rutted re-frozen snow. We all gathered at the trail head and began to change boot for sneakers and pack the skis and gear onto and into Bork’s car. Then, a mountain biker came rolling up on us, spinning along through the snow in a super low gear. He had ridden in along Rob Brook Road this morning and gone all the way to Rte 302 via the Sawyer River Road, a 20 something mile round trip. He has really wide tires and said he was only running about 15 pounds of pressure in them, sort of like a dune buggy on sand. Pretty impressive. He also said that you need to glue one bead of the tire of the rim. He said when you run the tires with low pressure, you can literally spin the tire on the rim and rip out your valve stem. On the drive back to Bob’s car, we stopped at one of the overlooks to see where we had skied on the second day. We could see the flanks of Mt. Tremont and Owl Cliff which allowed us to determine where the pond was, even if we couldn’t see it. We could also see the front side of Birch Hill and Green’s Cliff, which allowed us to figure where the Sawyer Pond trail ran over the broad height of land behind Birch Hill. After moving gear around at Bob’s car up at Lily Pond, we eased it into Lincoln to get warm drinks at the bagel shop. The bad news: the trip was over and the time with old friends had drawn to a close. The good news: we had gotten out of the wood soon enough that I would be able to tuck my children in at night. I’m a lucky man. Copyright 2004 by David Mann