Version 0.8
Copyright © 2007-2008 by Zack Smith,
All rights reserved.
There are tons of things that you can make
for yourself easily and quickly. On this page
I am trying to call your attention to this fact,
to shake you out of the sleep that advertisers
have induced.
I believe that most people have become enslaved to
manufacturers and to their agenda. People have been
emasculated by the capitalist and the retailer --
made to think everything must be bought and
that buying will solve problems. Most people
can't repair or modify
what they own, let alone build something useful.
All that most people can do, it seems, it prepare
food. But that is just ritualized consumption.
It's the slave adoring her chains.
Most people have been stripped of that potent can-do
energy that generations possessed before mass
marketing was invented. Before mass psychological
manipulation by PR firms became commonplace,
people were resourceful.
This page is a list of things that you can
make for yourself that I know of
to help you in reviving what we might call
"your inner McGyver" to
become more self-actualized and more independent.
The List
A wallet


I made my current wallet by simple experimentation.
The wallet I currently use is the second one I've
made, I've used it for 6 years,
and because I used thick leather it will
surely last another 6 years or more. My first wallet I used
for 2 years before I decided it was too small
but it would have lasted much longer.
Materials
- Thick leather, maybe $5 to $10 worth, for the exterior.
- A strip of pig's leather for the interior pocket.
- Leather hole puncher $7.
- An exacto knife to cut the leather, a pencil and rule to
make lines.
- Bee's wax.
- Thick thread.
- Olive oil, canola oil or a similar nontoxic oil to coat the exterior.
I think all in all I've spent $20 on this wallet.
Compare that to the $30 I was spending on crapola
wallets at places like Macy's that never seemed
to last more than 6 or 9 months each.
Procedure
-
You first have to decide how large
your wallet will be, then cut the two main pieces
to that size.
-
Next, if you will want external credit-card-sized
pouches like I've put on mine, cut those
to that size plus some room to accommodate
the holes and the inflexibility of the leather.
-
Now use the hold puncher to
go around the edges wherever there will be
thread. I spaced holes about 1/4 inch apart.
-
Cut the inner pig-skin to a diagonal shape
or however else you want it.
-
Use the waxed thread to assemble the wallet.
-
Apply oil to the outside surface to preserve the outer leather.
I used either canola or olive oil, and have only
had to re-oil the surface once in 6 years, again using an edible oil.
Crepes
Crepes are a basic healthy food invented in
the Brittany region of France that provide
needed carbs, protein and fats and which
are a useful container for other foods.
They're made with flour, eggs and milk
and preparation takes maybe 15 minutes.
Check out my explanation of how to make
crepes
here.
Work table



Recently I had some extra wood from
a project and I decided to convert it into
a work table, rather than go out and
buy some hulking particle-board junker
of a table. Using real pine wood (and
no plywood) I built
a simple but very useful table
that is 3 feet by 6 feet and is an ideal
28 inches high.
Materials
- Three long boards, each 6 feet by 1 foot by 3/4 inch.
- Four 2x4 legs that are each about 28 inches long
and were cut for me at Home Depot for a pittance.
- Two 2x4's for connecting the long boards, each is
3 feet long. I call these the lateral 2x4's.
- One piece of 2x4 that connects the long boards at the middle,
it's about 2 feet long.
- One 6 foot long rear stabilizing board that is
5 1/2 inches high and 3/4 inches thick.
- One 6 foot long front stabilizing board that is
2 1/2 inches high and 3/4 inches thick.
- Innumerable wood screws.
Some must be long enough to penetrate
one of the 3/4 inch pieces plus a 2x4,
others must be able to penetrate two 2x4's,
and some need only penetrate two 3/4 inch pieces.
Procedure
I build this table in situ, namely
in my bedroom. Without my removing the legs
it will be too large to get through the table out.
Removing the legs however is easy.
First connect the long boards to the
lateral 2x4's by placing the 2x4's down and
putting the long board on top of them,
then getting the angles to be perfect (90 degrees).
You can put the lateral 2x4's at the extreme ends,
or not, as you prefer. I did not.
Second, put the 2 foot long 2x4 in the middle
and connect that to the long boards.
At this point the surface of the table is built
and stable.
Third, prepare to connect all four legs.
Connect the legs to the lateral 2x4s first
to ensure the angles are perfect 90 degrees.
Then turn over the table onto the legs,
preferably against a wall, and drill in
screws from the top of the table into the legs.
Each leg is now stabilized by 2 screws.
Fourth, put the rear and front
stabilizing boards on, screwing them
into the legs, the top of the table
and the lateral 2x4s.
The table should now be done and
fairly strong.
Use thicker wood and thick screws
to make it stronger.
Additionally you have add lower
stabilizing pieces to really make it
strong.
Clothing hanging system
Lacking a closet, I decided to create a wooden
structure to hang clothing. It rests against
a wall and works just fine.
It started out being very simple but as
time passed I saw more and more improvements
that I could make.
Early version



Final version

Materials for Early version
Given 3 pieces of 6 foot long, 1.5 inch wide, 3/4 inch thick
wood, I made this simple, effective
structure that rests against a wall
to hang your clothing from hangers.
Each piece of wood is about $1.20 new.
I used 24 screws, all 1.5 inches long.
I estimate the total cost
for the final version including wood and screws was $15.
Procedure
As you can see from the Early version photos,
it began as just a few pieces of wood;
its stability relied actually on the wall itself.
Later I decided to add more stabilizing pieces
because the wood I used was fairly thin,
and I found that I was hanging more and more
stuff on it.
For the final stabilizing pieces that I
situated at 45-degree angles, I did use a
mitre box to get the angles just right.
Early on I didn't bother.
A key point is that you must make the joints strong by
using two screws for each. Also,
if you don't have a T-square (I didn't have one),
just use a standard piece of paper.
Weightlifting bench
With only a few pieces of wood and some
deck screws, you can make a basic
bench for using free weights.


Materials
I had some extra wood lying around, actually
some of it I had bought out of the Extras bin
at a hardware store for cheap.
I also needed a weight bench, so rather than spending
a large amount of money I decided to make one myself.
You'll need:
- Two 5.5" by 1.5" boards ("6x2"),
about 36 to 40 inches long depending on your size.
Measure from your top-of-head to buttocks
to get the needed length.
-
Seven 2x4 segments, 11" each.
-
Around 32 drywall screws, 3" length.
I bought a 1 pound box for $5.
Total cost should be something like $15.
Procedure
-
Cut all wood pieces to the proper lengths.
-
Stabilize the two pieces constituting the
top of the bench by attaching
the central cross-beam (see photos).
-
I believe I actually attached the legs
next. I was very careful to make sure they
were perpendicular with the bench top.
After each pair, I put in the stabilizing end cross beam.
-
Reinforce everything with more screws.
Sit-up bench
Sit-ups are ideally done on an incline bench
so that the abs work a little.
Rather than spend a bunch of money
on a metal-based bench, I simply made my own.


Materials
Seeking to make a stable bench,
I opted for using 2x8 planks, which are actually
7.25" wide by 1.5" thick.
I bought an 8-footer and got it cut into
two 4' pieces at the store for free.
- Two 2x8 by 4 feet pieces.
- Two 2x4 segments, each 14.5 inches wide.
- Two 2x4 segments used to raise one end.
I used two 7.5 inch segments but it's a matter of preference.
- Eighteen 3" drywall screws.
Total cost could be up to $18.
Procedure
- Lay the 2x8's flat and screw on the stabilizing
center piece, then the piece at the end.
- Attach the two legs, being sure to add
extra screws for strength.
Candles

One of the simplest things you can make is a candle.
Materials
- Bee's wax, 1 pound, costs $4 to $8.
- Wicking, which is simply cotton string, $2 at a craft store.
- A cheapo $1 frying pan from the $1 store.
- Optionally, glass containers to hold candles, specifically
ones with vertical sides.
Procedure
Put the pound of bee's wax in the cheapo frying pan.
This pan will only be used for melting wax and as a large candle.
Put the pan on your stove and switch it to the lowest setting --
usually "Warm" for electrics or just a trickle of flame for gas based.
Wait an hour or two for the wax to melt.
This will result in the wonderful scent
of bee's wax filling your kitchen.
When it's all melted, you can either pour the
hot wax into glass containers or you can do as I do,
use the cheapo frying pan itself as the candle container.
To make wicks, first cut pieces of wicking as long as you need
for your container.
While the wax is still a liquid,
add a couple coatings of beeswax
to them just dipping them in and letting them dry.
Whichever container you use,
put it in the fridge for 5 to 10 minutes,
until there is a thin hard layer on top of the wax.
After that time, poke the wicks through
that thin layer
and let the candle(s) sit in the fridge until solid.
Book holder/stand
After seeing people in cafes with metal bookstands
conveniently not straining their backs
while reading, I decided to make my own stand
for home use. I could have made a portable one
but chose not to, for now.



Materials
- Two 18" long pieces of 1.5" x 3/4" wood
to serve as the wide beams.
- Two 9" long pieces of same, to serve as
the vertical members.
- Two 5.5" pieces of same, to serve as feet.
Cut them at 45 degrees where they will connect
to the stand.
- One 3" piece of same, to serve as that
small middle prong that holds the spine of the book.
- Fourteen 1.5" wood screws.
Procedure
- Using a T-square or piece of paper to get
a 90 degree angle, connect the bottom horizontal
piece to the two vertical pieces (not feet).
Also connect the central "prong".
-
Then, connect the top horizontal piece
on the other side of the verticals.
-
Now cut the 45 degree angle of the feet
using a mitre box.
-
Attach each foot with 2 screws for strength.
In theory you can also use some wood glue
but I avoid it since it's toxic.
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