D.C.C. Tricks and Tips

Let me start by saying that I do not profess to be any type of Electrical Engineer! But I do love D.C.C. The opportunities it presents though are awesome! It adds yet another dimension in our already great and facinating hobby. And while most systems are easy to install and operate, it does require a certain amount of knowledge to properly install, customize and maintain the system, and 'de-bug' any problems that creep in.
I've been using the Digitrax system for years now, and as my layout grew, so did my system...and my problems! And as others around me converted to D.C.C., they began to rely on me to help them install their systems and work out their problems.
What I present here are some of the problems that I have encountered that at the time appeared to be unique and presented a challenge to me and my friends to resolve. Knowing that many may come across the same problems, I decided to share my findings with you here. In doing so, I must acknowledge my friends on the Digitrax Yahoo Group that came to my aid on more than one occasion, particularly Mr. Don Crano, who without hesitation always came to my aid when needed. Thanks Don!
I should add that in no way am I attempting to provide an all inclusive 'how to' on DCC within the scope of this page, but rather my own observations and findings. There is a wealth of information on the internet that is certainly more extensive that I could ever hope to provide, so rather than 're-invent the wheel here' I have provided links to some of my favorite DCC pages on my
Web Site Links page.You can either scan down this page or click on the topic you are interested in.
Ok, I might get blasted for this, but this is MY web page so I can offer MY opinion! I get frustrated when I meet people who are interested in going with DCC, but feel compelled to do some research first and learn all there is to learn about DCC before making the big plunge. I say 'NONSENSE'! I prescribe to the 'KISS' theory... 'Keep It Simple Stupid'.
Let's start off with the facts...DCC is great! It allows to run trains anywhere, anyway you want without the hassle of block wiring. It allows for more prototypical operations. It allows you to customize your locomotives with lighting and sound like never before. It makes detection, signaling and automation easier than before. So what's left to research?
I have found that most people who need to do 'research' are the simple at heart. Like me, they know enough about electronics and computers to be dangerous. So they feel compelled to learn as much as they can. They read books and talk to the 'experts' and quickly become overwhelmed with all there is to know about DCC. Shortly thereafter, they put off making the change because there is still too much to learn. This is truly ashame.
DCC can be truly as simple as it is advertised; connect two wires to the track and your up and runnning. Yes, you can make it as complicated as you want, but why? If you want to add all those features that DCC can offer, do so over time and learn as you go. Take it all in small steps. Become familiar with the basics, then over time, add to the system. That is the best way for a novice to learn DCC. Start off by buying the system of your choice. Install a decoder in one locomotive, then program it, run it and play with it. Then install more decoders.
Ok, so you have questions. Let's see if we can answer some of them in a 'simple' way and get you started.
Which system is best for me? A popular question and there are no right answers! It's really a personal choice. But here are some recommendations. First, see what everyone else around you is using. Selecting a system that is popular in your circle of friends will make trouble shooting easier down the road since they are already familiar with that system. Try to operate on layouts with different systems so you can try the various systems out. What kind of throttles would you like and what does that system offer? You will find that most of the systems out there offer all the same basic features. It is mostly a matter of design preferences and throttle choices.
How do I install DCC into an existing layout? Again, this can be as complicated or as simple as you want to make it. Generally speaking, adding DCC can be as simple as replacing an existing DC throttle with your new DCC system. Yes, the old block controls can remain in place for the time being, and if at some point in time you decide to remove those block controls, you can.
What about 'DCC friendly turnouts'? UGH, one of my favorite topics! Chances are, you don't need to make any changes. Period! Put simply, a 'DCC Friendly Turnout' is a non-power routing turnout. However, since most of the turnouts on the market are power routing, the next question is 'how do I make my turnouts DCC Friendly?' Well, let's start that answer with this; the basic rules of DCC are the same as with DC. With any power routing turnout, whether your operating DC or DCC, you want to ensure you do not 'back feed' block power into a power routing turnout. To prevent this, you need to cut gaps in the rails on both routes of the turnout. The gaps you cut into the track should be as close to the frog as possible. The idea here is to minimize the occurance of an engine crossing the gap, creating a short. Why? With DCC, when a short occurs, it shuts down the whole system, and in turn, the whole layout. This of course will be frustrating, so you want to minimize this occurance. Non-power routing turnouts would elminate this from happening, but then of course you stand the chance of a locomotive going through a closed turnout, derailing and causing a short anyway!
I will note here that DCC is much more sensitive to faults in wiring than standard DC. You may have situations with double slips or crossing where wheels may cause shorts when they cross over the crossings. This may not have been noticed under standard DC throttles, but the DCC system, being much more sensitive, will quickly respond to these shorts and shut down accordingly. Each of these occurances will have to be dealt with on a case by case basis, closely examining the crossing to determine where the wheel is making it's contact that causes the short, and either widing the gap or carefully grinding down some rail to eliminate this problem.
What about wire sizes and buss lines? This really applies to larger layouts. If you have a smaller switching layout, or a 4x8 layout, there is no issue. However, the larger the layout, and in turn, the more trains that are operated, the more this becomes a concern. Remember that one booster handles all the trains on the layout. The current draw, combined with the length of the run of your wiring can cause a voltage drop and in turn, a noticable reduction in performance. I'm not going to get into a long discussion here over wire sizes other than to suggest that your 'buss' wires should be a larger size, say 12 or 14 gauge wire, and your feeder wires can be a smaller size such as 22 gauge. If you feel compelled to research this further, than go to the various manufacturers web sites for their suggestions for their systems.
"I'm not sure I can install decoders." Nonsense! Today, there are such a variety of decoders available, many of which are 'plug and play' decoders designed for specific locomotives that require little more than removing the body shell, removing a circuit board and replacing it with the decoder which fits right in. If you have older locomotives that are not 'DCC Ready', then there is a wealth of information on the internet on how to install decoders in various loco's. Essentially, you are attaching two wires to track power and two wires to the motor. But if you still feel intimidated and don't feel comfortable installing decoders, ask a friend, or if all else fails, most local hobby shops have someone available to install decoders for a small fee.
Now, jump in and have fun! If you get stuck, ask a friend for help or better yet, go to 'Yahoo Groups'. There are a variety of chat groups for every type of DCC device on the market today. The people in these groups are more than willing to help, offer advice and get you through the problems you might face.
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One day, while operating on a friend's layout, we were trying to break in a new engine. We put the layout in continuous run mode, addressed the locomotive and let it go. Everything ran fine for a few minutes, but then all of a sudden it just stopped. The rest of the layout was running fine, but his engine just stopped. We checked the controller and it read '00' for the speed. We turned to knob on the controller and off she went! Ok, so we put the controller down and everything was fine again, until a few minutes later when it just stopped again. Same thing. 'What in the world?' I was convinced it was his engine. He had just installed a Soundtraxx decoder in the engine and told him to get it replaced. It was the only thing it could be. Everything else on the layout was working fine.
A few weeks later, during an operating session, the same thing happened to another engine we had running. This one we had run before with no problems, so now we began to realize that maybe it wasn't his decoder. Someone suggested it was our wiring and that the signal was being interfered with causing the decoder to receive mixed messages and in turn stop. While this sounded plausible, why wasn't it happening with other engines on the layout. Not convinced that this was the problem, I continued investigating.
Thank god for the Yahoo Digitrax Group and Don Crano. I posted a message explaining our problem and he came up with the answer right away!
Each of these engines (or more accurately, addresses) had previously been addressed by another throttle but never released, so the system saw two throttles operating the same engine. When the system does not receive a command from a throttle after a specified period of time, it will 'page' the throttles to check and make sure it is doing the right thing. In our case, the original throttle was set at speed '00', so when the system paged that throttle and saw '00', it stopped the engine. When we throttled the engine back up, it ran normally until it paged that address and throttle again.
I was always under the impression that when the system allows you to 'steal' an engine, you did just that - steal it from the other throttle. But in fact the system is only allowing you to control that locomotive, but it still considers the first throttle as a controller for that address as well. So, you don't actually steal it, you are only adding another throttle's ability to control that engine. So now what? What if you don't know which throttle originally controlled that engine? In our case, we have anywhere from 10 to 17 operators operating on this layout on any given session, and some of them bring their own throttle, which means that address could have been assigned by a throttle that is no longer on the layout! How do we get rid of all this?
We found out from the fine folks at Digitrax that on a larger layout like this one, they recommend ocasionally clearing the memory of all info. This is easily done by throwing Option Switches 36, 37, 38 or 39, depending on what you are trying to achieve (Refer to your Digitrax Manual for specific information on what these Op switches do and how to control them. Also check the information on 'Purging Addresses'.). Now, after each session, we 'cleanse' the system by throwing Option Switch 36 which removes all loco addresses and consists from the system. This has eliminated the problem that we had.
While there are other methods you could employ to reduce the chance of this occuring, in a larger layout or club situation where there are many people of varying levels of expertise operating the system, it is recommended that you clear the memory from time to time as you do not know what information has been 'accidentally' entered into the command station. Even on your home layout, if you find you have to 'steal' an engine for some unknown reason, someone forget to release it previously. It might be time to clear the memory of your command station to prevent problems down the road.
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This story actually comes from a friends layout on which I am a regular operator. His layout is a large home layout which we converted to DCC from a multi-cab DC system some time ago. We installed three DB150 Boosters, sub-divided into 7 sub-districts. Due to the complexity of his trackwork, we ended up installing 9 of the MRC Auto-Reverse modules in various areas of his layout. All worked fine... except one! It drove us nuts for weeks.
Here is the scenerio; the section of track which contained this particular auto-reverse module was essentially a standard reverse section, allowing trains to turn back onto the track onto which they just came from. Nothing complicated there. We only use this track occasionally, but more often for open houses as this makes up part of his continuous run option. One day while running, we noticed that at one end of the reverse section, the locomotive would short while exiting the section. Initially, we hadn't noticed this before. We tested the area and found that it only occured when running through the loop in one direction. In the other direction, no problems were found. We changed out the reverser thinking that was the culprit, but the problem persisted. We traced the wiring thinking we had messed something up, but everything was in order. We were told to check the gaps at both ends of the reverse section, but all four gaps were clear with no current flowing between them. We were baffled!
Finally, one day we were determined to find the problem. We tested with meters, tried different engines, moved wires, but continued to have the same problem. Finally, my friend Bruce suggested moving the gaps at the one end up from the end of the section to make the reversing section smaller. I couldn't see what difference that would make, but at this point I was open to any suggestions. While considering this option, the thought occured to me that at this end of the section, when the engine crosses the gaps, it goes directly into a turnout. That section of track is powered through three sets of turnouts, all of which were dependant on the power fed by the points of the turnouts. These particular turnouts at the time were not fed by the contacts on the machine. I wasn't sure if this might be creating the problem but as a test, using alligator clips, we jumped the power past the points directly to the short section of track on the diverging route of the turnout entering the reverse section. We ran an engine through and no short! We ended up cutting new gaps, dropping new feeders on the new block which essentially extended the diverging route on this turnout that was causing the problem and shortening the reversing section. The problem disappeared!
Conclusion is that by relying on three sets of point fed power, there was enough resistance on the diverging route that when the engine crossed the gap, it failed to trip the reversing module. Once we fed power directly to this section, we elminated the resistance and the problem disappeared. So if in your travels, you come across a reverser that isn't reversing, make sure you have full power fed to both the reversing section and the blocks it leads to.
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If you've read the articles above, you've already discovered how utilizing the Ops Switches can be convenient and save you some heart ache! But read on anyway. Over time, and through discussions with friends and fellow modelers, I've discovered what you can do to customize your system to best meet your needs and expectations. I don't intend to discuss every Op Switch here as there is a complete listing in your Digitrax Manual for your system. Read through your manual and experiment. That is probably the best way to determine which configuration best suits your needs.
Your Digitrax system comes with the ability to change certain settings on the booster. Just like on a control panel from a DC layout, these changes require that you throw a switch, and that's what an 'Op Switch' really is; an electronic switch. These switches are pre-set at the factory for certain default settings, which Digitrax has determined to be 'normal' for most applications. Changing these settings simply requires that you plug your throttle directly into your booster and move the toggle switch on the front of your booster to the "OP" setting. Push the 'MODE' button on your throttle until your in the 'SW' mode. Then use the throttle knobs to dial up the number of the Op Switch you want to change. The left side of the display will read 'OpXX' where XX is the number of the Op Switch. The right side of the display will display either 't' for thrown and 'c' for closed. To change the setting of that Op Switch, press the 'L/t' button to change the switch to 't' (thrown), or press the 'R/c' button to change the switch to 'c' (closed).
PLEASE, BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, refer to the owners manual for your system for specific instructions before you make any changes. These instructions will vary slightly from system to system depending on what Op Switches are on your system and what throttle you are using. I use the Chief System with the DCS100 Command Station Booster. Some systems come with certain Op Switches pre-set to the 'c' position. Other Op Switches should not be changed at all as this will have an adverse affect on operations. And no, I don't know what these 'adverse affects' are, and frankly I don't want to find out! Most of the suggestions I make below are based on the DCS100 Command Station Booster.
Here are my recommended settings, and why;
These are just a few recommendations and you may choose other settings for your system the best meets your needs. The message here is to experiment and see what best meets your needs and wants.
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