Trip Report, Alsea Bay Surf

Paul Stivers, 12-26-07

Dave Graham decided to join me, despite the snow on the coastal range. As Dave put it, “Just one more adventure.” It was a good day. Here’s a trip report.

DATE (s): 12-26-07 LEADER(S): N (unofficial trip)

PARTICIPANTS: Dave Graham, Paul Stivers

BODY OF WATER: Alsea Bay

FIRST AID KIT: Y WAS IT USED? N FLARES N? TOWLINE Y VHF Y

WIND DIRECTION: NW WIND STRENGTH: variable 0 – 20 knots.

SWELL DIRECTION: SW SIZE: 3 ft PERIOD: ?

ROUTE/DESTINATION: Near the bridge

DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL TIMES, DISTANCE: 1100 – 1415

FOOD AND LIQUID: Y

HIGHLIGHTS, DESCRIPTION NARRATIVE, SKILLS TAUGHT OR LEARNED:

Swell on the coast was 18 ft.

High tide was 9 ft @ 1330. The flood exchange was 5.5 ft; the ebb exchange was 10 ft.

At 1100 and 7 ft tide, energy from the coastal surf started to pass through the mouth of the bay, producing a 2 ft secondary swell in the bay, from the SW. Breaking waves started to appear at the shallows on the West side of the bridge. However the wind and rain had picked up at the same time, wind to 20 knots from the NW, producing 1.5 ft wind waves running perpendicular to the 2 ft break. The wind waves interfered with the break and prevented it from forming up well enough to provide a good ride. The wind and current also made it difficult to keep a safe distance from the bridge. Conditions simply weren’t suitable for surfing. By 1145 we decided to change plans and settle for some touring around the bay.

We no sooner were a quarter mile East of the bridge when the wind and rain stopped. We looked back and saw waves starting to break on the East side of the bridge. We spent a good 1.5 hrs riding waves in that area. The wave height was approx 2 ft at 1200 (8 ft tide) and building to 3 ft by 1300 (9 ft tide.) The waves were rolling over shallows, rather than into shore, so would steepen and form a lip and often keep that form without collapsing. We were therefore able to catch some very long rides, up to 100 yards. We would paddle up to the bridge and just wait a couple minutes for the next set. There was the occasional roll back up, but all rolls were successful, and that’s part of the fun.

By 1300 the wind and rain picked back up. The 3 ft surf remained in tact, but we were ready for lunch. We paddled to the point about a half-mile East of the bridge, near the boat dock. There are benches in a dugout in the sand dune there that provides great cover. Just as we got the boats on shore and walked over to the lunch spot, however, the wind and rain stopped, and the sun came out. So we moved to an open picnic table up on the point. Sun, just in time for lunch!

We were back on the water by about 1345 for a little more surf before the ebb current got too strong. One caution at Alsea Bay is that at high tide the water will tend to float wood off the shore. Wood debris was starting to collect on an eddy line on the East side of the bridge, so we moved to the West side of the bridge. We caught a few more good rides. Then the wind and rain started to pick back up again. We could see thick black streaks in the sky in front of the mouth. Dave took one more ride, and then we headed for the take out, and were off the water by 1415. By this time the tide was up to the stairs at the sea wall at the put in. Some small logs were starting to float. Not a serious problem, but it would have been a little safer to launch at the boat dock.

Summary of observations:

Observations on surf were consistent with those made on the Dec 9 trip. At about 7 ft tide, energy from the coastal break starts to pass through the mouth, causing secondary swell in the bay, and breaking waves on the shallows on the west side of the bridge. At 8+ ft tide, energy from the coastal break appears to reflect off the cliffs (and possibly off the sea wall) on the south side of the mouth, sending secondary swell straight up the bay, putting breaking waves on a large area of shallows on both sides of the bridge. 7 ft coastal swell on Dec 9 produced 1 and 2 ft surf in the bay. 18 ft coastal swell on Dec 26 produced 2 and 3 ft surf in the bay. Once sufficient coastal swell and sufficient tide level are present, the biggest variable for quality of surf in the bay is the wind. Above 15 knots, and wind chop may start to break up the otherwise well formed surf.

If planning to launch or land below 3 ft tide or above 7.5 ft tide, the boat dock may be a better choice than the sea wall. Below 3 ft, and there’s a risk of being land locked at the sea wall. Above 7.5 ft, and there’s the risk of floating wood, and the water is right up to the concrete steps. (The boat dock is located at the end of Broadway St., off Alsea Hwy. There is no fee, just a donation box.)

Factor Computation Method (Maximum Points Score) – actual score.

1-Water Temperature 1 point for each degree below 72F (40) – 20

2-Wind Speed 1 point per mph of wind speed (50+) – 23

3-Wave Height 2 points per vertical wave foot (40+) – 6

4-Swim Distance to Safety 1 point per 100 meters (20) – 3

5-Breaking Waves 30 points if waves are breaking (30) – 30

6-Rock Garden 20 points if paddling in rocks (20) – 0

7-Sea Cave 20 points if entering sea caves (20) – 0

8-Night 20 points if it is night (20) – 0

9-Fog Up to 20 points if fog is dense (20) – 0

10-Miscellaneous 10 points or more for other danger (10) – 4 floating wood

TOTAL POINTS = 86

Divide total points by 20 to obtain CLASS LEVEL = 4.3

Note: The breaking waves were localized and could be avoided. In that case, the trip would be rated 2.8, mostly for wind and water temperature.