"A New Hope" - Original Graflex (6 Grips)
       
   
   
       

We first glimpse the lightsaber destined to become Luke's Jedi training weapon as Obi-Wan Kenobi retrieves it from an old trunk. This first version of this lightsaber, which we see on screen in "A New Hope",  is essentially a side-mounted flash unit from an old press photographer's camera manufactured by the Folmer Graflex company sometime between 1938 and 1942. Added to this Graflex 3-cell flash handle are six rubber strips cut from an automobile wind shield wiper blade, a D-ring assembly attached to the bottom for hanging the lightsaber from a belt, and the magnifying bubbles from a seven digit LED calculator secured in the clamp which was used to attach the flash to the camera and hold the unit together.

On July 18, 2002, I received an original Graflex flash which I won on e-Bay. I bought it because I already had "The Empire Strikes Back" version made using a replica Graflex, and I wanted an "A New Hope" version as well. During the course of filming, multiple versions of the prop were used and in post production publicity shots, the props were tinkered with further with the result of the prop having a slightly different appearance depending on the reference photos used.

The primary difference is the positioning of the clamp assembly on the handle. Some photos show it on the right side of the flash, and others on the left. (The clamp was designed to be positioned on the right or left side of the handle depending on which side a photographer wanted to mount it on the camera.) For my version, I've decided to go with how it appeared in Obi-Wan Kenobi's hands as he first presented it to Luke so I'm positioning it on the left. Also, there is speculation which puts the exact positioning anywhere from 12:00 to 3:00 when looking at the flash bulb socket end with the red test button at 12:00. I've decided on an approximate 2:00 position. The reason being if the clamp's set screw is engaged (see the photos below), then a higher rotation toward the test button is not possible. It is likely, however, that the original set screw was lost from the handle used in filming, so the prop people could have had the clamp rotated further, but since I am going to use the set screw, I am going to keep the rotation at the maximum which is mechanically possible.

Below are detailed photographs of the flash as it was when it arrived and the steps I took to restore and convert it. Click on any photo for a larger view.

July 20, 2002: Inventory, Assessment and Cleaning:

 

 

The Graflex 3-cell flash handle as it arrived including reflector and sync cords.

 
         
 

An unexpected surprise was that the unit was still in working order as can be seen by the functioning focus-assist light for low light levels (many refer to this as the 'glass eye' presumably due to its resemblance to a photo sensor). The light was also used to target a subject and help adjust the rotation of the unit for the optimal flash angle.

   
         
 

 

A close up of the manufacturer's stamp on the bottom of the flash.

 
         
 

The main components of the flash include the reflector, the top half, the clamp, and the bottom half.

   
         
 

 

A close-up view of the top of the flash with a sync cord connected to one of the front sync plugs. The other end of this type of cord would have connected to the camera to synchronize the flash with the shutter. A cord with two female ends, would have connected multiple flash units together.

 
         
 

The two vertical slots above the lens are a plug. "A standard household plug can be inserted into the vertical openings in front of the battery case to permit the use of standard photoflood reflectors or ordinary home lighting equipment to hold additional flash lamps."

   
         
 

 

A close-up of the lens removed from the handle.

 
         
 

Here the spring that's attached to the lens assembly is visible. The tension from the spring is what holds in place the small light bulb inside the handle. The bulb and lens assembly could also be removed to accommodate attaching a Graflex Electroswitch which was another device used for synchronization in some circumstances.

   
         
 

 

One of the front sync plugs (notice the heavy tarnish). If you enlarge this photo, you will see the hexagonal bases of the socket prongs. These are parallel plugs and were used to connect and synchronize other Graflex flash units for studio lighting effects. Also, when the camera shutter was slaved to the flash unit, these plugs would connect to the solenoid release mounted next to the lens.

 
         
 

The back of the flash with the red  button, and socket grips visible. The square hole toward the top is where a tab from the reflector is inserted when in place. The red button is not actually a test button as many believe. It is the 'main switch' and was used to trigger the shutter when the camera was slaved to the flash using a solenoid release connected to one of the front sync plugs.

   
         
 

 

Here we see the purpose of the 'beer can tab' as some like to refer to it. This tear shaped piece of metal holds the main switch assembly when its removed and keeps it from getting lost.  Underneath is a series plug that was used to synchronize the flash when the shutter was released. This plug is the same size as the front plugs. If you enlarge this photo, you will see that these two prongs have square bases.

 
         
 

I always wondered about the purpose the this oval- shaped detail between the sync socket and main switch on this side of the flash... It is actually a switch. When slid up, it activates the focus-assist light on the front.

   
         
 

 

The top of the flash showing the detail of the socket grip and release assembly. The post in the center is mounted on an internal spring and can be depressed until it is flush with the bottom of the bulb socket.

 
         
 

Looking up inside the top of the flash handle.

   
         
 

 

Looking down inside the bottom of the flash, the battery spring is visible.

 
         
 

The body clamp. This holds the top and bottom halves of the flash together as well as attaches the unit to the side of the camera. Its difficult to see from this photo, but the letters are engraved and painted black.

   
         
 

 

The clamp seen from the top. Here is the main problem with my flash - one of the side bars is missing. These side bars create the tension that holds everything together when the clamp lever is flipped down. Without both side bars, the unit will not stay together properly. My solution is to buy a replica of the clamp assembly made by Larbel in Hong Kong. I will use the original clamp, but with the replica side bar. The replica is currently on order from Roman's Empire.

 
         
 

The individual components of the clamp assembly. Notice the tiny set screw and retainer. This allows the rotation of the flash to be adjusted and then locks it in place and also prevents the clamp from falling off when the bottom half is removed to change the batteries. Also missing is a small rectangular spacer which is positioned between the missing side bar and lever. Fortunately, this will be included in the replica assembly.

   
         
 

 

Another view of the clamp components. Note the detail on the back side of the side bar. Also, most of the plating has peeled off of the lever. Therefore, when the new clamp assembly arrives, I will use the replica lever as well for display purposes.

 
         
 

All the parts together waiting to be cleaned.

   
         
 

 

Based on a recommendation posted on one of the prop collectors' bulletin boards to which I subscribe, I ordered a tube of Hagerty 100 All Metal Polish. This stuff  is incredible and did an excellent job restoring the flash handle.

 
         
 

Here is a before and after photo showing what a great job the Hagerty Polish did. I used an old sock for applying and removing the polish over the larger areas, and Q-Tips with wooden stems for all the small nooks and crannies. I like the wooden stems, because they give better control and allow you to apply more pressure.

   
         
 

 

Another before and after photo. For cleaning the bulb and sync cord sockets as well as the glass lens, I used a little Glass Plus sprayed right onto a Q-Tip.

 

 

Go to Part II: The Replacement Clamp