This is a write up done by David Dressler who was kind enough send me a copy and to allow me to share it. My upgrade used the 9140, (shown at magnetek2.htm ) and this one is for the 9160, so you can see that either one works very well. In my upgrade, I chose to completely remove and discard the original chassis, and this one involved gutting the original converter chassis making for a "cleaner" install. - Rick

Converting the MagneTek 6325 Series Charger/Converter to the

Inteli-Power PD9160V and Charge Wizard PD9105V

The MagneTek 6300 Series Charger/Converters seem to have been very popular among camper manufacturers because of their very affordable price. As is often the case, ‘quality’ is often directly proportional to cost. The MagneTek 6300 Series offered low output power, unfiltered supplies, and single voltage set points. As a result, the end user often ended up with “ill-effects” associated with onboard electronics; the inability to charge batteries in a reasonable amount of time; nor could the battery ever achieve a full-charge without the possibility of over heating the battery (a tradeoff made with the single voltage set point).

In my case, I was upgrading from a MagneTek 6325 Charger/Converter. This charger boasts a rating of 25-amps of continuous power, but only a small fraction of this (5-6 amps) was ever available to charging the battery. This meant that I was faced with a 120-hour charge time (via generator or shore power) to take the battery from a fully discharged state to a fully charged state. By updating to the Inteli-Power PD9160V (60-amp and all available to the battery if necessary) with optional Charge Wizard PD9105V by Progressive Dynamics, I now could fully charge the battery in as little as 3-hours time! The optional Charge Wizard (a microprocessor controlled module) converts the Inteli-Power converter into an intelligent battery charger with different charging curves based on the condition of the battery. This offers accelerated charging times without the potential of harming the battery. Additionally, the Charge Wizard offers a Battery Desulfation mode, which routinely increased battery voltage for brief time intervals to mix up the battery electrolyte thus prevents battery stratification and the resulting problems of battery sulfation.

For the conversion, it was desired to retain the old MagneTek breakout section (breaker and fuse panel) while just swapping out the Converter/Charger section. I found that the new Inteli-Power chargers which are fully supported by the Charge Wizard had the following physical dimensions:

Model PD-9130, 30 Amp dimensions: 4.5'' x 7'' x 7.25'' 4.0 lbs.

Model PD-9140, 40 Amp dimensions: 4.5'' x 10'' x 7.25'' 5.4 lbs.

Model PD-9145, 45 Amp dimensions: 4.5'' x 10'' x 7.25'' 5.4 lbs.

Model PD-9155, 55 Amp dimensions: 4.5'' x 10'' x 7.25'' 5.4 lbs.

Model PD-9160, 60 Amp dimensions: 3.6'' x 8'' x 9.00'' 5.8 lbs.

Model PD-9180, 80 Amp dimensions: 3.6'' x 11'' x 9.00'' 7.5 lbs.

I chose to go with the 60-amp version, which would physically fit, into my old charger location. The following procedure outlines the process that I took when upgrading my MagneTek 6325 Charger/Converter to the Intel-Power PD9160V with Charge Wizard PD9105V.

It is highly recommended that the installer take the extra time to study his/her own wiring layout, as there are no guarantees that the original installation was done correctly. Correct any deficiencies now so that you can enjoy a safe and reliable adventure when on the road!

IMPORTANT!

Remove all power sources from the camper!

Disconnect any AC hookups, batteries, and even solar panels prior to removing any access covers!

The first view shows the cover of the MagneTek breakout box (fuse panel) with the front cover removed. Additionally, the four screws holding the lower charger/convert assembly have been removed (shown by the four arrows).

The next view shows the new Inteli-Power 60-amp unit, which will replace the MagneTek unit. The Intel-power will be installed lying on its side (label down) with the heat sink and fan up against the breakout box panel venting.

The next view shows the 5 wires that need to be cut prior to the removal of the charger/converter section. Leave yourself as much of the wire remaining as to aid in the reinstallation of the new charger/converter. Also, in my case it was a good opportunity to mop the icky floor while in there!

This view shows the old MagneTek charger/converter section removed from the breakout box. It was my decision to retain the original chassis and mount the new converter inside it. This also retains the original mounting holes, which are used to fasten the access panel into place.

For the most part, the original assemblies are removed from the chassis by drilling out the aluminum rivets. Others are fastened with screws. Carefully remove the original “junk” and discard in the nearest garbage can! I was able to perform the entire process within 5-minutes only cutting my finger once.

The power chord needs to be “hacked” so that it can be spliced into the original AC wires. Note that the original converter AC wires which were cut were the “HOT” (black) and the NEUTRAL (white) wires only—no Earth wire was removed. It should be emphasized once again that it is the installer’s responsibility to make sure that the Earth wire is installed properly from the main hookups. In my case, it was properly connected behind the breaker panel thus grounding the entire chassis. We will want to install the Earth (green) wire within the power chord of the new converter/charger as well.

Prior to the wiring of the AC and DC lines, it is probably a good idea to think about how to install the Charge Wizard. My one complaint is that the Charge Wizard is hardwired with the controller on one end and a rather large plug on the other end. I had to enlarge one of the cooling vents in the chassis to accommodate the routing of this module.

Carefully feed the DC wires (white, red, blue) through the access hole and connect to the terminals in the Intel-Power unit: Red = ‘+’, Blue = ‘+’, and White = ‘-‘. Next splice in the AC wires (black to black and white to white). Make sure to provide an “Earth” connection for the charger, which maintains proper continuity to the “Main” Earth.

Tuck the wires out of the air passages and secure them into place.

Return the access cover and fully test the new charger/converter unit! It is important to verify that the unit switches through its various modes of operation and performs per the manufacturers instructions. Also, it is the responsibility of the installer to assure that proper cooling is achieved. I cannot claim to provide a “fool proof” method for everyone’s particular installation, but I think that the unit’s own cooling fan operation can provide you with some helpful insight. When the unit is under a heavy load, the cooling fan will routinely cycle on/off to prevent over temperature. I achieved a “heavy” load by discharging the battery and switching on several overhead lights (I even switch the refrigerator to DC mode for a while). If the fan stays on for any lengthy time period or is on when the “loading” is somewhat “light”, this is a clear indication that the unit is not receiving the proper ventilation. Good luck and happy trails.

David Dressler