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United KingdomWe've spent a lot of time in the United Kingdom, 7 trips in 10 years. Even when we travel to Italy or France, we find we like to end the trip in England -- it just feels more like home. So far this contains primarily information about England although we've begun to add information on Scotland and Wales. This is a very personal view, full of our opinions -- you may not agree with all of them. We'll list only the places we've really liked. Dave & Rita Curbow This will always be a work in progress. Table Of Contents
London AccommodationsOur favorite area for hotels/flats is the area around the Gloucester Road tube stop. WHY? It's on the Victoria tube line as well as the Circle and District lines. These three lines get you to a large portion of the standard tourist destinations -- 5 stops to Westminster, 5 to Piccadilly Circus, 6 to the theatre district, etc. Directly across the street from the tube stop exit are several 24 hour mini-marts. There's a couple of great supermarket nearby -- Waitrose next door and Sainsbury's, 3 blocks away. More about them in the Food section. Our favorite hotel, Kensington Plaza Hotel, is one block away from the tube stop, on Cromwell Road. 0171-584-8100 Cromwell Road is very busy and can be quite noisy, so ask for a room at the back, or one of the rooms that have double glazing. The single rooms tend to be very small, but have great showers and OK beds. If you're looking for a single room, room 314 is nice, and because it is at the back of the hotel, it's quiet. A couple of years ago they charged 60 pounds for a single during peak season, 70 pounds for a double. If you're going to be in London for a week or more, We recommend getting a flat. We've been very pleased with E&E Apartments. They manage lots of flats, mostly in the Victoria/Pimlico area. This is primarily a residential area so its quieter than the Gloucester Road area. Send them email and tell them what you're looking for -- ee.apartments@virgin.net. In previous years ('93 and '95) we've stayed at The Edward Lear Hotel (Seymour near Edgeware Road, 1 block from Marble Arch). We've also stayed at the Embassy House Hotel (31/33 Queens's Gate). We were very pleased with it then, but since we haven't stayed there in 10 years we don't know whether to recommend it. This is also in Gloucester Road tube area, although several blocks away. We've mentioned "great showers" because many of the older hotels have really poor ones -- very little water pressure and sometimes they've shoved a showerstall into a corner of the bedroom! Over the years most hotels we've stayed in have upgraded their showers -- so this may no longer be a concern. Still, it's always a good idea ask to see the room before you sign anything. The locals do. FoodWe like good food, and the food in Britain is much better than 10 years ago. There are now a lot of nice restaurants. However, usually we'd rather spend precious time seeing and doing rather than eating long meals. Especially for lunch we often to pick up food and then picnic in a park. Our favorite places are Waitrose and Sainsbury's supermarket and Marks and Spencer department stores. These also seem popular with the locals -- always a good sign. Waitrose is a large, up-market supermarket chain that carries a lot of organic food. They seem to be only in England. There's one next door to the Gloucester Road tube station. They have a nice deli, lots of premade sandwiches, soups, salads, small desserts, etc. Their fresh produce seems better than other places we've shopped. If you are staying in a flat that has a oven, We recommend looking at their frozen foods -- much of it is good. We can also recommend Sainsbury's, a similiar supermarket. There's one located 3 blocks away from the Gloucester Road tube station. This one is much larger than the nearby Waitrose so there's more selection available. They also now have Sainsbury Local located in or near major train stations such as Victoria and Paddington. There's a huge and wonderful Sainsbury's a couple of blocks from Victoria Station on Wilton Road. Recently, Tesco grocery stores have become more popular that Sainsbury's -- mostly because they are cheaper. In my experience their food wasn't as good. Marks and Spencer (known to the locals as Marks and Sparks) is a mid-market department store (somewhere between Sears and Saks 5th Avenue). There are locations throughout England. They have a "food hall" that sells lots of sandwiches, salads, etc. This is very popular with the locals for lunch. They are also building many smaller food stores -- often right next door to Sainsbury Local. There are so many tourists in Britain that you can always find a premade sandwich nearby. I've noticed that some really interesting combinations in premade sandwiches. And, because there are a lot of vegetarians in Britain, there's a lot of vegetarian sandwiches. By the way, the bread is often spread with fresh butter before the other ingredients are added. This helps keep the bread from getting soggy, esp. for premade sandwiches, and actually is quite good. If you want a custom built sandwich ask for "fresh cut" -- and don't expect to get a lot of meat on it! I've sometimes gone to a supermarket/food hall and bought a sandwich and then gone to the deli counter and bought 100grams of turkey or some cheese. Makes a good alternative if you're craving U.S.-style sandwiches. RestaurantsWe have a few favorite restaurants, organized below by city. London -- Pret a Manger, locations everywhere tourist gather (e.g., basement of the National Gallery, Tower of London) Something between sandwich shop and restaurant, this chain has good food. Dave can especially recommend the chocolate cake for dessert! They close at 5pm. Winchester -- Hunter's Restaurant, 5 Jewry St.
Tel: 01962 860006 Glasgow -- Don Leonne. This Italian restaurant is a couple of miles outside of the center of town, but the food is worth a taxi ride. The location isn't much to look at, but the food was the best we had in Glasgow. It's also a favorite of the restaurant critic in the local paper. 280 Colston Road, Bishop Briggs. Tel: 0141-762-3132. (Last visited Sept. 1997.) Lincoln -- Le Papillon. In St. Paul's Lane, off Bailgate (near the cathedral). Excellent California-style food. (Last visited in 1995) York -- The Grapevine (part of the Town House Hotel) Holgate Road, about .5 mile from the station. We stayed in the Town House Hotel a number of years ago and discovered this excellent restaurant. Very small, seats about 20. PubsA few years ago it seemed that all the food was fried, and the veggies overcooked. That's changed a bit, so we occasionally eat in pubs. However, if you find cigarette smoke doesn't enhance your dining experience, take care to ask for non-smoking, or better yet sit outside. This is becoming less of a problem as fewer Brits seem to be smoking. Starbucks -- They have decent premade sandwiches. Actually, they are premade pannini -- sandwiches that are toasted on a Italian paninni grill while you wait. I was pleasantly surprised by the Chicken Pesto with Sun Dried Tomatoes. As in the US, Starbucks seems to be on nearly every corner in cities. Unexpected PlacesMuseums often have decent, if expensive, restaurants. The National Gallery (Trafalgar Square) has a good, cheap restaurant in the basement -- Pret a Manger. Many cathedrals also have restaurants -- usually simple and cheap, but only open for lunch! The restaurant in the crypt of St. Martin's In The Fields (Trafalgar Square) is close the tourist sites, and OK. Previously I've recommended St. James Church Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly -- an old church designed by Wren a few blocks St. James Palace.But this year I've noticed they've changed their food and it LOOKED like prepackaged sandwiches and coffee. I didn't eat there. Things To DoTheatreWe love theatre in London! A list of all the current plays can be found at Official London Theatre's website. For reviews you can believe, look in TIME OUT. I prefer to go to the theatre itself and buy your ticket for the next day. The old theatres are small enough that almost any seat is fine. If you want, the "stalls" (orchestra to Americans) are usually not very expensive, but don't sit in the first 8 rows or you'll have a sore neck tomorrow! The first balcony is cheaper and often just as good. The Upper Balcony can be really nose-bleed, but you can nearly always get a seat. Even if a show you really want to see is sold out, turn up anyway at the box office and wait. Often single seats become available 15 minutes before the show, and at a discount! Spend your time instead doing something rather than wasting it standing at the Half Price ticket booth to save a few pounds. You often have to stand in line for more than an hour during the summer.During the fall I've gotten thru in as little as 10 minutes. We always go to at least one performance at the National Theatre complex. The Olivier Theatre is where the large, mainstream productions are produced. The Lyttelton theatre is a bit smaller and more experimental. Both theatres are large enough that it makes sense to buy a "stalls" ticket. Every production I've seen here has been excellent. The Olivier seems to do a lot of revivals -- e.g., Guys and Dolls, A Little Night Music, A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum, etc.. The The Cottesloe theatre is smaler and does more experimental productions. You can always "queue up" and wait for "returns" -- you might get great seats for a good price. Just get to the box office an hour or so before the show and ask. We also try to find British farce (e.g. "No Sex Please, We're British!" or "Noises Off") at one of the smaller West End theatres. We usually skip the big name events, e.g. Phantom, Cats, Buddy Holly, Sunset Boulevard, Miss Saigon, etc. Check days of performances carefully as many productions are in "repertory" -- that is, on for a few days then another play is performed. This is especially true of the Globe Theatre -- where I recently saw Much Ado About Nothing. It was a wonderful experience! GardensThe UK has many fine gardens -- magnificent green spaces with trees and flowers. There are amazing gardens associated with many of the great country houses, e.g. Chatsworth. There are gardens in the public parks, e.g. Holland Park and Regents Park. There are private gardens in the center of squares of houses -- these are the only ones that are off limits to tourists. Think of these gardens as a common front yard for all the houses circling them. Some of our favorite gardens in London: Kew Gardens -- Begun in 1759 by the mother of
George III (the one in power during the U.S. Revolutionary
War) It has several huge glass greenhouses of interesting
and rare plants. Be careful -- a few are poisonous, so read
the labels before touching! Dave was about to touch a
hanging yellow flower in one of the green houses when he
looked at the sign -- touching the flower might have been
fatal! Take the District Line to the Kew Gardens tube stop.
Walk 4 or 5 blocks to the gate. There is a cafe inside Kew, but we like to pick up a sandwich from one of several shops clustered around the tube stop and eat while sitting on a bench under the trees. We recently discovered a very pleasant, informal restaurant for lunch -- the Kew Greenhouse. As you're walking from the station towards Kew Gardens it is located on the right side of the street, the last business before the street becomes residential. Hampton Court -- A Royal Palace from the days of Henry VIII. The house is very interesting, but with a wonderful garden, esp. during the spring. There is a famous maze made of tall hedge -- very easy to get lost inside it. There are lots of rhododendrons. You have to take a bus to get here so it isn't overrun with tourists. (More Info) ConcertsRoyal Albert Hall -- cheap classical concerts with good symphony orchestras. Other acts as well. Pick up a copy of TIME OUT at a bookseller. BTW: This term applies to book stores (often found in train stations) as well as small stands in the Underground as well as on the street. St. Martin's In The Field -- really in Trafalgar Square, but that used to be "out in the fields!" They have many chamber orchestra, etc. recitals. Drop by and pick up a flyer, also see TIME OUT. (More Info) (The restaurant in the basement is vegetarian, and not bad, but we prefer the National Gallery restaurant -- see below.) MuseumsThis section lists London area museums we recommend visiting and those we suggest skipping. You sould also check out this web site which lists most of the museums in the UK. Must See:National Gallery -- Trafalgar Square. Thousands of paintings since 1200 or so until '20s. Spend a day. "Pret a Manger" restaurant/cafe in the basement, very good. National Portrait Gallery -- around the corner from the National, old painting of Elizabeth I, Henry VIII, Charles I, etc. There was a major remodel recently and more visitors than in past years.
British Museum -- specializes in ancient stuff, e.g. Egypt, Babylon, China. Always mobbed with tourists! (More Info)
Below are four examples of what you'll find at this museum. First, is one of the most moving pieces -- the "Royal Lion Hunt". It was carved for the walls of a palace in Assyria. The next two pieces are from the Ancient Egypt gallery, and the final photo is from the "Elgin Marbles". Sometime in the 1800's Lord Elgin had them removed from the Parthenon (a temple in Athens) and shipped to Britain. The Greek government has asked several times for them to be returned.
The Tate Britain -- I visited this in 2002 and really liked it. It's the "pre-modern" stuff. I can highly recommend this museum, unlike the Tate Modern. Buckingham Palace -- The palace isn't normally open for tours (except Aug. thru Sept.), but the Queens Gallery and "Royal Mews" are. The Queen owns an amazing collection of art, and some of it is shown (in rotation) at the Queen's Gallery. At the Royal Mews you get to see amazing coaches, including the golden state coach. Nothing between you and it, but a rope and 4 feet of air!
Tower of London -- Overrun by tourists, but really is worth a day's visit. Go early and start with a guided tour with one of the Yoeman Warders (ex. military men in fancy dress costume). Be sure to tip them a couple of pounds at the end and then visit the rest of the fortress, starting with the Crown Jewels. (More Info) You May Like:Bethnal Green Museum of Childhood -- toys from long ago. If you like dolls, doll houses, trains, etc. go see this. We had a great time! (More Info) Sir John Soan's Museum -- if you like architecture, then you should go spend 2 hours here. Sir John designed the Bank Of England, and other masterpieces. His home is a museum with all kinds of architectural bric-a-brac (plaster cornices, molding, etc.) + an Egyptian coffin that the British Museum didn't want to pay THAT MUCH for. Amazing object. (More Info) Victoria & Albert Museum -- The largest museum of decorative arts in the world. Its 146 galleries reflect centuries of achievement in such fields as ceramics, sculpture, furniture, jewellery, metalwork,textiles and dress, from Britain, Europe and Asia. We really like their glass and silver collections. (More Info) British Library -- Like the Library of Congress, if they started by collecting illuminated manuscripts. (Amazing stuff!) Also things like original "Lucy In the Sky With Diamonds"-stuff from Beatles, the prayer book of Jane Seymour (or perhaps it was another of Henry's wives) with her notes just before being executed! Many exhibits are open to look at under glass. We always visited the "original" library next door to the British Museum. They've recently opened a new one -- the location may have changed. (More Info) Kew Bridge Steam Museum -- If you know what a Watt or Newcombe steam engine is, you'll want to visit this museum. It is truly amazing to watch them RUN their largest steam engine -- 90 inch diameter, 36 ton plunger, running at 4 strokes per minute. (More Info)
Royal Naval Academy (in Greenwich). It is a pain to get to, but the dining hall and the chapel are beautiful. (More Info) You can also hike up the hill to see the Royal Observatory -- where "Greenwish Mean Time" is measured from -- it's a big hill at the top of a large park. I've enjoyed the park, but never made it to the top. Visit these only after you've done everything else.
We advise friends to skip the following museums: The Tate Modern -- stuff since the '20s. Even though we like this period, we didn't like the Tate Modern. It opened in May 2000 to great fanfare. We managed to get in one afternoon a couple of weeks after it opened and we really didn't like the exhibits. It was subsidized with a lot of funds from the British National Lottery -- and we think they wasted their money! The only thing good we can say is it's in a nice location -- at the end of the new Millenium Bridge, a pedestrian-only bridge across the Thames to Saint Paul's. Science Museum -- aside from recently built model of a portion of Babbage's Engine, not much else here. Seemed designed as a destination school kids. Natural History Museum -- dinosaurs, another school fieldtrip destination. Museum of Design -- much hyped industrial design museum containing stuff we see everyday in Silicon Valley. And, it's a pain to get to!
Other Places To VisitWe also like to take guided walking tours around London.There's lots of different tours -- locations associated with Jack the Ripper or Dickens, Pubs, Theatre Land, Inns of Court (Legal London), etc. We've always been happy with Original London Walks although there are other companies. Outside LondonWe like British trains. They're fast, efficient, and reasonably cheap -- at least compared to driving. However, since our last visit there have been several major wrecks and scandals about the companies running the newly "privatized" system. I'd suggest allowing extra time, and confirming that the train you want hasn't been canceled. (Schedule Info). If you're interested in historic trains, there's a lot to see in England -- after all this is the country where the hobby of "trainspotting" originated. (See National Railway Museum above.) However trains can't get you into the countryside, and if that's where you want to go (to see ruins, country houses, etc.) you'll need a car. Driving in the countryside isn't difficult. If you rent (and pay!) while in the U.S., it is usually much cheaper than renting there. Hertz is everywhere. Avis too. We recommend ordering an automatic transmission, even if you drive a stick in the U.S. as it is just one less thing to think about as you master driving on the "wrong side of the road". Actually, it isn't difficult. But, get someone at the rental agency to explain road signs, and protocol for roundabouts. Be prepared for sticker shock over the price of "petrol" (gasoline). Actually, the price isn't bad because most cars are very fuel efficient, and besides you're on vacation! So what if it costs you an extra $10 dollars to drive to some place you couldn't get to otherwise. We really like driving in the countryside outside Glasgow Scotland and York England. From Glasgow, leave the city via freeway going west then drive north along the lochs (sorry we don't have more details, can't find my Scotland map as I'm writing this note). The scenery is fabulous! The Yorkshire Dales (made famous by James Herriot and the "All Creatures Great and Small" series on PBS) are worth one or perhaps two days. Try driving from York on the A19 to Thrisk, then take the A61 to Ripon, then the A6180 to Middleham. Continue North to the the B6270 (west) and then take the A684 for a while -- you decide the best way back to York. CathedralsA couple of notes. Cathedrals are churches, and people come there to worship. I imagine it is really annoying to have a tourist camera clicking and flashing 5 feet from where you're sitting trying to pray. So, be quiet! Better yet, visit on weekdays! If you go at 9am you'll be there after any early morning service and before all the other tourists get there! Also, the docents won't be burned out yet and will have time to answer your questions. Wear comfortable shoes -- stone floors and stairs can be very tiring. Actually, many churches ask you NOT to take pictures. They sell small booklets which have better pictures than you'll take, and for less money than having your film processed. Spend your time looking and talking rather than taking pictures and you'll have a better time! All of the churches are constantly being repaired -- holes in the roof, dry rot, rising damp, etc. So, donate a few pounds to help them keep the buildings going. This is a good place to dump all the heavy British money that's collected in your pockets! You may find it interesting to read this short description of medieval architectural styles. I'll talk mostly about cathedrals, but this info also applies to other buildings such as castles.
Winchester So, if you like architecture, this is the cathedral to visit. It has examples of many the forms of English cathedral architecture. It started as a "Norman" building and then parts were converted to Gothic architecture.There are few Early English windows, but most of the cathedral was remodeled in the Perpendicular style. The photo below shows a corner of the transept where this can be seen. We recommend you plan to spend all day here. Take the
docent led tour through the main church, then another one up
300 or so spiral stone steps onto the roof, see the bell
chamber, etc. we think this is the best docent led tour to
see architecture! The 60 minute train trip from London costs about 10 pounds and avoids parking problems! It is only a short walk from the station to the cathedral. (More Info)
The windows in the picture above were converted to Perpendicular -- see the fancy stonework in the top of the windows? Also, you can see a painted wooden roof -- most later cathedrals had stone work and plaster ceilings. Rochester Canterbury Durham It is primarily Norman design, that is it hasn't been changed a lot since it was built in 1093. Notice the simple rounded arches above the columns in the picture below. Durham is also interesting because the columns were built with different patterns in the stone work -- in the picture below you can see a herringbone design. The ceiling in a Norman cathedral wasn't as tall, or as fancy as in later cathedrals. Some of the original columns have been replaced with Gothic versions, you can see they seem to be a cluster of smaller columns -- a more graceful look. Also, the "rose window" at the front of the cathedral was added later, during the Decorated period. My family visited the cathedral and town recently because my paternal grandmother's family is from here. (More Info)
Gloucester Cathedral
Westminster Abbey You have to visit and see the tombs of Kings and Queens, and other famous people. I encourage visiting early on a weekday morning. Avoid stepping on the tomb of the Unknown Warrior or Winston Churchill, both just inside the front door. (More Info) BTW: Also in London is Southwark Cathedral, described as the earliest Gothic work in London, and the finest after Westminster Abbey. I haven't had a chance to visit it yet. It's in the neighborhood of the Globe Theatre and the Modern Tate Museum.
York The photo below shows the York Mister looming over the nearby houses. This photo was probably taken from the medieval wall that surrounds the city of York. The wall is a bit over a mile long, and a great way to see the city center. (More Info)
Country HousesThink BIG houses of Dukes, Earls, etc. intended to impress. They do. Here's our 4 favorites in England: Chatsworth
Coneysthorpe, York, YO6 7DA Tel: (01653) 648444 30 minutes drive from the city of York. If you saw "Brideshead Revisited" some years ago on PBS or A&E, this is "Brideshead House". Worth allocating a day to visit. (More Info) Harwood House -- 40 miles away from Castle Howard.
Doe Lea, Chesterfield, Derbyshire 6 mile NW of Mansfield on A617 turn South at Glapwell Open 1300 to 1700 W, Th, S, and Sun This house isn't visited as much as the two above, but Dave like it a lot. It belonged to "Bess of Harwick" who was second in power only to Queen Elizabeth I. It hasn't been renovated as much as other country houses, and you get a feeling for what it would have been to live during that period -- if you had as much money as Bess. RuinsWe like ruins, castles, abbeys, whatever. There are lots in Britain and here's some of our favorites. To see these you really need a car. Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal, Ripon, York HG4
3DY Rievaulx Abbey (EH), Rievaulx, York, YO6 5LB Middleham Castle a Norman castle @ Middleham
Scotland & WalesOne day we'll do a complete write up on other places we've enjoyed. For now, here's some random notes. GlasgowHotels: We foolishly took the advice of the Scotish Tourism Board in London and booked a room at hotel on Sauchiehall Street. It was located on a steep hill above a fried chicken fast food restaurant, the smell and noise from the traffic and drunks leaving nearby pubs kept us awake all night. We left the next day. There are several museums in Glasgow that we really enjoyed. In fact, in some ways the museums are better than those in London and Paris -- they have really interesting pieces, and they don't have great hords of tourists. When we find the notes I'll write them up here. Be sure you rent a car and drive north along the lochs -- the countryside is wonderful! WalesBetws-Y-Coed -- A wonderful place in north Wales to hike. We stayed at the Glan Aber Hotel in 1990. At that time they had added a new wing that felt like a Holiday Inn, en suite baths, sterile. In retrospect we should have stayed in the older part, which looked much more interesting -- even though the toilet was down the hall. Tel: 06902 325700
Finally, an image of how sheep are moved in Yorkshire. The English Border Collie at the back of the sheep, near the stone wall is doing all the work.
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