Methods I Use
First check over the plane and look for cracks and other damage and make sure it's worth the effort to save. The two most common places for cracks is the corners of the mouth and they run backwards and this is real common on low angle block planes.. The most common is cracked cheeks and they often happen at the humps.. The either run from the mouth up the side of along the sides where the frog seat meets the sides
the plane and put all the parts in a shoe box, I like to use the plastic types you can buy at a dollar stores, most times the body will not fit but all the other parts will.. If you have some stuck screws use some penetration oil and let it sit for awhile and I'll use a pair of vise-grips on a screwdriver shaft and most times that will do it.. Don't use pliers on the brass adjuster most times just a rag on oil will do the trick if you take you time..
Rusted Screws? Aero Koil is the best rust buster its from KanoLabs.Com
Let this stuff sit for a few days and spray it a few times a day.. Dont strip the head, get a screwdrive that fits well..
That I use is a 1/4"ratchet with a screwdriver tip or vise grips in a screwdriver shaft..
A old Yankee right angle ratchet works but is really to much to use it all the time as the Yankee will fail in time.. Some times a cheap $1.00 right angle screwdrive they sell at the counter of a auto store I use some times..
PS and heat the plane in oven to 160º - 200º or a small torch.. On the Yoke Plate for the frog adjuster screw I hit back and forth side to side a few times and this looses it up most of the time..
Cleaning Method One
Check out my page on Electrolysis
I don't use this method unless the plane has heavy rust and I want to make sure it don't come back as it does some time just wire wheeling it away..
Cleaning Method Two
This is my many method for removing rust.. I use it for all the mall screws and lateral levers and I also try to get as much of the dept adjuster stuff as I can holding the yoke forward and back while I buff the opposite end..
I using a Harbor Freight buffer with a 8" stainless steel fine wire wheel (.010 -.014 wire size ) This is the first tool I would say to buy... Attention! Always is eye protection with wire wheels, a piece and break off and stick in your eye very easy..
I use Tal-Strip Paint Remover I get from Advanced auto.. This stuff works much better that the stuff pictured I bought at H-D I also use Lacqure Thinner to clean up the stripper.. I also use just lacqure thinner if I am out of stripper as it is not cheap... This is a take your time operation and let the stuff do the work for you.. I may add some type of stripper 2-4 times before I am happy with scrapping what is left off with a screwdrive...
Magic Polishing Wheel
For polishing the the machined metal parts I use a 3M de burring wheel called some times called a magic wheel.. You can find them at MSC,in case the web page changes search for DeBurring Wheel , I use a A/O Fine Grit with a 7 Hardness althought eBay is a great place to fine these at bargain prices...
I use a fine grit but Medium also works OK and can be bought to fit most any grinder or buffer. I use this to polish all the screw heads and lever caps, lateral levers and sole and cheeks after sanding.. I also may belt sand a lever cap and body if it is pitted first before polishing with the de burring wheel..
HF Sand Blaster about $19.99
I like to sand blast most all the parts as it removes the rust where most every other method can't reach.. I use play sand from a hardware store and use a kitchen strainer to catch the less than 1% of sand that doesn't pass through.. If I don't I'll get a clog I'll have to clean every load or two..
I like to tape up the screws and lateral levers as you can see in the images.. I also run a piece of tape over the frog base.. All the other surfaces I like to use the wire wheel to remove the over spray.. I do tape up both sides of a Bedrock frog seat and I use a pocket knife and a flat head screw driver to scrape off the paint on the frog seats on the body.. I like this method better than tape and the scraping removes and rust and leaves a nice clean surface..
Here is a before image
Apart and Ready to Clean
Before shot with plane apart..
Here is a re-finished plane.. I don't call the restored because they are not, I would only clan then to call the restored..
Parts Ready To Assemble
All Cleaned and ready japan or assemble..
Notice the nice mirror reflection on the sole..