WD-40 Is What I Use.
I have not been doing a lot of woodworking so my planes are at risk and it is working fine for the last 4-5 years. I have not been doing a lot of hand planing and wood finishing to know
the affects of the WD-40 and finishing, but I wipe my planes down and
always take more than one shaving of wood with the plane to make sure there is now WD-40 left on a finished wood surface to react with the finish I use on the finished project..
I did read on the Web about some woodworkers that warm their planes in the oven and apply
paste wax so it melts in to the pores of the plane,
sound like a good idea to me but wiping the plane when finished with it here in Georgia withiy's very high humidity is the method that works for me.. In the Summer my Table Saw can rust in a few hours with my sweaty hands on it..
I use Top Coat on my table saw and hand saw blades and I guess will work well on planes and other hand
tools but it does leave a white film and think WD-40 never has let me down but you can not let it mix with finished wood surfaces.. That is why I do not use it on my table saw..
I also use Motor Oil on tools in long term storage tools like my collection of hand saws and this works very well..
I started using camellia oil and had several plane stored in front of a AC duct
and had the planes rust several times and each time I buffed the rust off I
applied it heaver each time..
This was over the coarse of maybe a few weeks the rust would start.. I don't
have to much faith in camellia oil any more.. I would use it on wood based
planes on their irons but no longer on metal planes..
I also use 3-In-One High-Performance Penetrate on pitted rust areas I have
lapped smooth, I try to get a puddle to sit on the area and seep in to the
I have finished a few planes and had lightly pitted areas come back during
delivery after using wax.. I now use the 3-In-One even after Electrolysis as
that doesn't seen to stop the rust action either.. so far the 3-In-One as
I now use Kano Labs AERO KROIL since it is the best penetrate on the market today..
Some Folks use Paste wax, like Johnson's or Renaissance Wax, as it helps make the plane slip over wood making hand planing easier they say..
As I said before melting Past Wax on warmed metal planes also works well, Garrett Hack recommends Boiled Linseed Oil and Paraffin Wax (Candle Wax) melted together for Wooden Planes and with the above method of warming plane in oven should work very well.. Garrett says the using just BLO in humid climate will cause the plane to mold..
Camellia Oil, Penetrol, Boeshield, Top Coat
All of these work well, I like Top Coat or CRC Table Guard for my hand saws as it leaves a white powdery film. I have read the Penetrol works well well seeps into the pores of the wood and can be found at Paint Store as it is a Paint additive.
Many wood plane users like Camellia Oil.. Used both for preventing corrosion and for easing chisels and knives through wood. Use a light wipe on all your steel tools to keep them clean & shiny.. This oil has no effect of wood or finishes from what I know..
You could also use Japanese Tool Oiler (Aburatsubo Tool Oiler)
Japanese craftsmen traditionally kept a small bamboo pot stuffed with cotton wadding within easy reach on their tatami mat work surface. Liberally laced with camellia oil, the wadding served as an automatic oiler for chisels plunged into the pot; a small bit of wadding seized between the fingers sufficed for a quick lubricating wipe on saw blades.