Wood Plane Makers
I have just bought a new ECE Wooden Jack Plane, Model No. 103 S at eBay.. I thought I would see how Wooden Planes do compared to Iron Planes
The first thing I noticed is that the Cap Iron is 3X as thick as a Iron Plane. I have a few Clifton Planes and they to have Cap Irons that are extra heavy duty.. What I have thought with this information is that it is probably a good idea to add after market Cap Irons and or extra thick after market Irons to my old Stanley planes..
After doing some studying of sites on the Internet I have learned that the ECE Jack Plane has the Blade Bedded at 45 degrees and the smoother has the Blade Bedded at 50.. I am still waiting the arrival of a ECE Smoother
This Model No. 703P has the Non-Adjustable Mouth, but it was another eBay purchase.. 15 Years Old in Like New Condition with a little rust. I can hardly wait to get this beauty and see if they are everything I read they are.
I am friendly with Steve Knight, I make brass thunbscrews for his plow planes..
Everyone only has good things to say about this planes..
I believe he has the most affordable woody's to be bough..
Here are a few I seen him make as a special order usig the coustmers wood
And if you take a good look at the Iron and the size of the Wooden Wedge you notice how thick they are again. I the near future I will do some tests on adding thicker Iron Caps (Chip Breaker) and Irons to Stanley Planes and see if I can figure out how to gauge how much better they work and if it is worth the extra expense..
Adjusting Wooden Planes
Now this is where I felt a little intimidated..
Knight Tool Works has a nice Video on How to Adjust Wooden Planes Blades
You do need Real Player to view it..
Bob Smalser posted on Woodnet.Net /Forums this How to
Dunno why it
would be more difficult than on a Stanley...except for the important
frog adjustment, the blade adjustments on metal planes are too
coarse and pure eyewash, IMO...they all need to be tapped into
perfection when set with a brass hammer just like a woodie.
On your new wood plane...turn upside down in your off hand and rap it on the back end to loosen blade and wedge.
Remove and make sure the mortise is clean of chips....then reassemble.
Fit blade dead even with the sole with no exposure...hold it there while you push wedge in with firm hand pressure or a very light mallet tap.
Holding plane upside down in off hand again and sighting down the sole:
Use a small brass hammer, taping the top of the blade to set the blade beneath the mouth just a tad...also tap to get the edge perfectly parallel with the mouth.
Try it out. Repeat as necessary on a test piece of edge grain about as wide as the blade...shaving should be equal in width as the board and uniform thickness throughout.
All the older references say to tap the front end of the plane to drive the wedge and iron deeper. Try it once you have the basics down, it's more difficult that way but easier on the plane.
The only difference between this procedure and a Stanley is you begin with a Stanley blade set closer to your final set because you can only tap within the mechanism's slop and lash or you will damage it.
The only advantage of a Norris or other 50-degree, thick-bladed heavy smoother is superiority in face planing hard, figured wood. I don't use planes for that...I have a thickness planer and scrapers. I use planes to make shapes I can't do on machines well...oars, stems and breast hooks for example.
Links to Wooden Plane Makers
How to Make Wooden Planes
Jim Kingshott's Panel Plane
Why Make Planes From Beech
Classic Plane Making
Norris planes by Darryl Hutchinson
Holtey Classic Planes
Ovolo Plane Making
Make Your Own Wooden Plane
Step by step shoulder/rabbet plane making
Infill Plane Makers on the Web
Scott's Plane Making
Shepherd Tool Works
St. James Bay Tool Co.
E.C. Emmerich Tools
Knight Tool Works