Plastic Grubs & Smallmouths

Sometimes the smallest, cheapest weapon in your arsenal is also the deadliest. That's how it is with plastic grubs.

Choosing the grub and leadhead is a balancing act many anglers simply can't figure out. Smallmouth anglers should focus on three grub sizes: 3, 4, and 5 inch. As a rule of thumb, the 4 inch grub is the standard, although at times you can catch as many or more smallies on smaller and larger grubs. Because 4 to 5 inch baits mimic a wide variety of forage, they'll trigger strikes from bass of all sizes under most conditions. Fish smaller grubs in cold water or when the bite is off; switch to larger sizes when water clarity is reduced, when the bass are really on a tear, or you're fishing areas where trophy bass are likely.

GRUB STYLES: There are numerous styles of grubs you can stick on a jig. Curly-tails: works in many situations and is by far the most popular. As its name implies, the bait has a curly, flexible tail that ripples through the water both on the retrieve and on the drop. Spear-tails: common among saltwater anglers, they have flat tails that produce less vibration, but their high speed fluttering action triggers active fish, particularly smallies schooling on baitfish. Shad-tails: the tail is flattened, so the grub body wriggles on the retrieve. Because they fall fast, shad tails are good choices in heavy current. Spider: combines a curly design with a collar comprised of soft plastic legs. A good choice when bass are spitting the jig, because the legs add a lifelike feel that often causes fish to hang on longer than other body styles.

LEADHEAD WEIGHTS: The weight of the leadhead is another key factor. These three basic head weights will cover most smallmouth scenarios: 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 ounce. When targeting bass in six to 15 feet of water, which is probably 75% of the time, use a 1/4 oz. head. In this depth range, a 1/4 oz. head works best with 4 and 5 inch grubs. If your fishing a 3 inch grub use an 1/8 oz. head. When smallies are close to the bottom in current, or on reservoir structure deeper than 20 feet, use a 3/8 oz. head.

LEADHEAD SHAPES: Few anglers bother to consider the shape of the leadhead, yet it can be critical to success. The three major designs for smallmouth sized leadheads are ball, toe and dart. Round heads are the cheapest and the most popular. They're perfect for nearly any presentation that's not bottom or cover intensive, but round heads are prone to getting stuck between rocks. Toe shaped heads are contoured, sort of like your big toe. It's considerably more snag resistant, making it preferable for fishing around chunk rock and stumps. The dart head's pointed nose and streamlined design allows it to fall faster, an advantage in deep water and current.

WEEDGUARDS: Weedguards are another overlooked option. Some smallmouth anglers argue that they aren't necessary since smallies aren't nearly as cover oriented as largemouths. A weedguard may cost you a fish every now and then by interfering with the hookset, or by alerting an especially wary fish that the grub it's just picked up isn't real, but its advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

COLOR SELECTION: What color should you use? Grubs, like most bass lures, are available in a zillion colors, but you only need a few to consistantly catch big smallmouths. Smoke-A highly realistic baitfish imitating color, best on sunny days in clear water. This is a good choice for late spring and fall. Chartreuse-Totally unrealistic, but extremely visible. Bass are highly attracted to this color. Fish it wherever visibility is limited, on cloudy or rainy days, around deep structure and in stained water. Pumpkin-This color mimics a crawfish and is ideal for cold, stained water. It works especially well in early spring. Mixing and matching any of the above colors can help you fine tune your presentation, as can the addition of reflective of colored flakes to the translucent base color. Flakes can either increase the visibility of your grubs or make them appear more realistic. On a sunny day, silver flake makes a smoke grub look like a flashing baitfish. When it's overcast, reflective colors lose their impact and you're better off with a flat colored flake like black or red.

GRUB TACKLE: The Rod-Most grub experts favor spinning tackle. The all around favorite is a 6' to 6'2" graphite rod with a medium to medium-heavy action. The biggest mistake most anglers make is fishing grubs on light or ultralight rods. A grub is a single hook lure, and it takes a powerful hookset to sink the barb into the tough jaws of a trophy smallie. It's better to fish grubs on a rod that's a little too stiff than one that's too whippy. The Line-Light line is a must for grubbin'. Most professional guides use 6 to 8 pound monofilament, and recommend premium, abrasion resistant line with a little stretch for shock absorption. Line that doesn't stretch can break during a big smallmouth's initial run.

GRUB RETRIEVES: There are four basic retrieves for fishing the grub. The Swim-A horizontal retrieve for smallies on spawning flats, long points, gravel bars and other structure that slowly tapers into deep water. This retrieve is ideal for the springtime. Start with the boat in about 8' of water. This may put you a long way from the bank, but smallies are seldom shallow. Make a long cast and let the grub sink to the bottom with the rodtip steady at 2 o'clock. When the jig lands, reel quickly to shoot the grub off the bottom, then slow down so the bait swims just off it all the way to the boat. If you feel the lure bottom out, speed up your retrieve. Don't pop the rodtip. Keep it at 2 o'clock; the twisting grub tail is the only action required. Most strikes occur as the grub swims past an isolated stump or rock. When you feel a hit, drop the rodtip to 3 o'clock and set the hook. The Dart-A fast moving retrieve, deadly when smallmouths are actively chasing baitfish on flats or points, or schooling in open water. Cast the grub beyond visible baitfish or breaking fish, let the lure sink a foot or two, then pop the rodtip sharply so the grub darts erratically. Let the lure drop a bit, then dart it again, varying the number and intensity of the rod pops. You can substitute a spear-tail grub for a curly-tail if you wish. This retrieve will take smallmouths as well as hybrids and stripers. The Drop-A fall and winter retrieve, ideal when smallies are on vertical or sloping structures such as submerged humps, steep points, chunk rock channel banks and bluffs. Position the boat so you're facing the structure, then cast to it. Engage the reel when the lure hits the water and, with the rod held between 1 and 2 o'clock, let the lure sink on a tight line, pendulum style. When it hits the first stage of the slope, pop the rodtip slightly so it hops over the edge, then return it to 2 o'clock as the bait continues to fall. Repeat until the grub is under the boat. Watch the line; if it twitches, jumps or hops, set the hook (a bass has inhaled the grub). Ledge Crawl-A variation of The Drop, best used when bass are located along a channel dropoff or ledge in 12 to 30 feet of water. With the boat hovering above the deep side of the ledge, cast past it into shallow water and let the lure fall with your rodtip at 10 o'clock. When it touches bottom, lower the rodtip within two to three inches of the surface, slowly turn the reel handle a few rotations, then pause a few seconds. Continue the cadence until the jig drops off the ledge. Bass may hit during the crawl or on the drop.

Soft plastic grubs may not be the flashiest smallmouth baits around, but they are among the deadliest. Their applications are virtually limitless.