A Guide To Plastic Worms

When And Where To Use Various Worm Styles

Plastic worms come in several different styles, and this difference confuses many anglers. No 
doubt, virtually any worm can be used in any worm-fishing situation with some chance of success. 
However, all worm styles have specific conditions for which they're best suited. Anglers who 
can match worms to conditions will be more efficient with these baits. Following are guidelines 
for when/where to use different worm styles.

• Straight-tail — The straight-tail worm is what its name implies. The tail may be truly straight 
or with a small, flattened paddle on the end. A straight-tail worm works better with a vertical 
presentation than with a horizontal. It is designed for spot-fishing in deeper water with a slow 
jigging retrieve. When the bait is hopped off bottom, the entire body of the worm reacts with a 
wavy, snakelike motion. A straight-tail worm is a good choice for object-oriented bass in a 
non-aggressive mood.

• Paddle-tail — The paddle-tail is a straight, full-bodied worm with an exaggerated paddle-like 
tail on the end. The paddle produces maximum vibration at very slow speeds, which makes this 
style a consistent producer of big fish. Paddle-tails work better in the vertical plane: i.e., 
deeper water, individual objects or narrow fish-holding zones (edges of drop-offs). Also, three 
specialty situations when the paddle-tail worm works well is flipping, night fishing and 
twitching weightless through cover.

• Curled-tail — Also called the "hook-tail," this is a good general-purpose worm that has a 
straight body and a short, single curl at the end of the tail. As the worm is pulled through the 
water, the curled tail has a built-in swimming action. This worm is good for both deep, vertical 
presentations and shallow, horizontal presentations.

• Ribbon-tail — This design features a thin, single- or double-curl tail which moves through the 
water with a pronounced rippling action. This "swimming-tail" worm is designed for shallow, fast, 
horizontal presentations and bass that are actively feeding. Many experts use this worm to fish 
aquatic vegetation, either with or without sinkers.

• Sickle-tail — The sickle-tail is another swimming-tail worm, though the tail is thicker and the 
worm body bulkier than on the ribbon-tail. These features cause the sickle-tail to sink slower and 
with more vibration than the ribbon-tail. For this reason, it is well-suited for slower retrieves, 
often on bottom for non-feeding bass. Also, because of their throbbing vibration, sickle-tail 
worms are good for flipping and/or fishing over or through vegetation.

• Action-tail — The action-tail worm is molded with an auger-like twist in the body. As this worm 
is retrieved, the auger activates a wobbling tail action. This worm can be used in the same 
circumstances as the ribbon-tail — shallow, fast presentations when searching for actively feeding 
fish.

• Finesse worm — The finesse worm is a small, thin, straight worm noted for its lack of action. 
Finesse-fishing experts use it primarily in deep, clear water, but it will also work well around 
shallow structure. Owing to its small size, the finesse worm must be fished on light tackle. It has 
the subtlest action and appeal of all plastic worms.

• Pre-rigged worms — Many worms come pre-rigged and ready to use in specialty situations. Examples are the propeller-rigged, a top producer when swum beside boat docks, grass edges and other horizontal structure; Do-Nothing Worms, for Carolina rigging; and a small jighead/worm combination for taking non-aggressive bass in deep, clear water.

Sizes And Colors

After selecting the right style worm, an angler must decide on size and color. If bass are feeding, 
they may not be choosy about size and color. But if they are picky, these factors may mean the 
difference between success and failure.
When discussing worms, "size" means two things: Length and thickness. Of these, length is the more 
important decision to be made.
The big bass/big bait rule holds true. Long worms (7-inch and longer) are better when anglers feel 
odds are high for catching bigger bass. In some noted big fish lakes, 10-inch worms are standard. 
Also, long worms are better in stained water and at night, since they're easier to see, and they 
give off more vibration. And last, long worms are the choice for fishing weightless over vegetation 
or thick cover. Again, they produce more vibration, which aids the fish in homing in on the worm 
and incites strikes.
Conversely, short worms (6-inch and shorter) are better on smaller bass (when an angler is more 
interested in numbers than size). They are also a favorite when Texas-rigged and worked through dense vegetation or brush. (Short worms penetrate cover better than long ones.) Plus, short worms are a good choice for clear water/high visibility situations. In ultra-clear water, when bass are suspended and lethargic, small 4- and 5-inch finesse worms are the wise choice. Worm thickness affects action and the size and type hook that may be used to rig the worm. Guidelines 
for selection are similar to those for length. Thick worms are better for big bass and low-visibility 
situations. Thin worms are better for smaller bass and clear water. Usually, however, anglers don't 
have to worry about thickness. This choice is made for them by worm manufacturers. Most long worms are molded with fairly thick bodies. Short worms are thinner.
Color in plastic worms is a world unto itself. Many worm-fishing experts believe bass pay no attention to color. When they're biting, they'll inhale whatever hue swims by. However, other anglers swear that using a worm just the slightest shade off will result in rejection by the fish.
Research on this subject has been inconclusive. What is unquestioned, though, is that confidence plays a major role in color, style, technique or whatever. If an angler firmly believes a certain-color worm will catch more fish, it probably will, for him. With this in mind, here are guidelines many pros 
follow when it comes to selecting worm colors.
In low-visibility conditions (nighttime or muddy water), dark-colored, opaque worms are best — black, grape. In high-visibility conditions (bright sky, clear water), light-colored, translucent worms are the choice — pumpkinseed, pearl, salt-and-pepper. And between these extremes, in dingy or slightly stained water, such in-between colors as blue, red shad, motor oil and tequila are good picks.
Many worms are two-colored. In some worms, the two colors run parallel down the body. In others, the head of the worm is one color and the tail is another. Again, research into two-tone worms is 
inconclusive, but fishermen who use them feel they double their chances of presenting a color the bass like.
Also, many worms feature metalflake or other glitter specks molded into the body. Since these are 
visibility enhancers, glitter worms are best-suited for dingy or muddy water. In clear water, some 
anglers hold, the extra flash attracts attention from farther away.

Plastic Worm Presentation

Selecting the right worm is the first step. The next one, perhaps more critical, is using it with the 
right presentation. Because plastic worms are so versatile, anglers have developed numerous retrieve methods for them. Here are short descriptions of 10 of the most effective worm-fishing methods currently used by bassers around the country.

• Bottom bumping — This is the standby retrieve for the vast majority of worm-fishing situations. 
Another name would be "lift-and-drop," which is an accurate description of this method. After casting 
the worm, wait until it sinks to the bottom (the line goes limp). Then point the rod tip at 10 o'clock, 
reel in slack, lift the rod tip sharply to 12 o'clock and hold it until the worm sinks back down and the 
line goes limp again. Repeat this lift/drop until the worm clears the area where bass should be.

• Swimming — Again, the name is an accurate description of this retrieve. Instead of allowing the worm to sink to bottom, swim it at some intermediate depth, either in a straight pull or with a series of twitches. You may use either of two rigs. The first is a paddle-tail or swimming-tail worm rigged Texas-style. Add the least amount of weight you have to to make the worm castable. The second rig is a 6-inch straight-tail worm threaded onto the hook so it has a crook between the eye and bend of the exposed hook. This crook causes the worm to spiral during the retrieve. (A leader/swivel above the worm prevents line twist.) Fish either of these rigs parallel to boat docks and logs, along 
grasslines and over mossbeds. The Texas-rig swimming worm will pull through heavy cover, but the spiraling rig is not weedless, so use discretion where you cast it.

• Flipping — Flipping is weedless; it's designed to fish the heaviest cover where bass might hide. This technique calls for a long, stout rod and heavy line (20- to 30-pound test). The worm is rigged Texas-style with the slip sinker pegged flush against the hook's eye. Position your boat close to the target cover (brush, grass, stumps, logs, docks, etc.). Then strip enough line off the reel so the worm dangles near the reel with extra line held in the other hand. Now, engage the reel and gently swing the worm into the target spot, releasing the extra line through the rod guides. When done correctly, the worm's entry into the water is quiet and subtle. Lower the worm down into the cover, then jig it up and down two or three times. If there is no strike, lift it out for the next flip-cast to another spot. If you detect a bite, set the hook immediately and try to move the fish from the cover in the initial lift. The secret to flipping is keeping the fish from turning its head and burrowing back into the cover.

• Pitching — Pitching is similar to flipping, except casting distances are longer. Use the same tackle and worm rig. To make a pitch-cast, point the rod toward the target while holding the worm, on a taut line, in the other hand. Then, using the rod tip as a fulcrum, swing the worm pendulum-style toward the target and allow it to pull line off the reel. This motion should be smooth and controlled, like a golf swing. Using this technique, expert pitchers can hit teacup-size targets 15 or more yards away.
After the pitch-cast, wait for the worm to settle to bottom, jig it two or three times, then wind it in for 
the next cast. The advantage this method has over flipping is that you can fish a piece of cover from a greater distance, thereby lessening the chance of spooking tight-holding bass.

• Doodling — This vertical "finesse" technique is custom-tailored to deep, clear reservoirs and bass that are either holding near bottom or suspended at some intermediate depth. It utilizes a light spinning or casting outfit, 6-pound line and a 4- or 5-inch, thin "doodle worm." The worm is rigged Texas-style, and it is preceded by a 3/16-ounce sliding sinker and a glass bead between the sinker and worm. There are two ways to "doodle." In deep water, lower the worm to the bottom and engage the reel. Then jiggle the worm with short, continuous jigging hops (4 to 6 inches) while trolling back and forth over the target zone. In shallow water, the technique is virtually the same, except the jiggling starts as soon as the bait enters the water, and it is kept up while the worm sinks to the bottom.

• Shaking — Shaking is a "finesse" method that is a cross between doodling and the standard lift/drop retrieve for plastic worms. It entails a small doodle worm rigged Texas-style with a 3/16-ounce slip sinker. Cast this rig and allow it to sink to bottom. Next, instead of simply lifting the worm off bottom, lift and shake it at the same time with a series of short rod tip pulses. The effect is a jerky swimming action as the worm rises from, then falls back to bottom. Shaking is also a good way to catch bass suspended along rock walls or bridge pilings. It is best adapted to deep, clear reservoirs, though it's also effective for fishing around shallow brushpiles, boat houses and the like.

• Dart-fishing — A third "finesse" method, dart-fishing utilizes the same light tackle and small worms as doodling and shaking. The primary difference is that in dart-fishing, the worm is rigged behind a small (3/8-, 3/16-ounce) jighead which has the eye sticking out the top of the head. This "weight-forward" rig yields a swimming/gliding action as the worm is retrieved. Either pull this rig with little action (do-nothing method) or shake it as explained above. Experts at finesse fishing will try doodling, shaking and dart-fishing on any given day to determine which presentation the bass like best.

• Speed-worming — Speed-worming is similar to fishing a buzzbait over aquatic vegetation, except a worm is substituted for the buzzer. This method requires a long, medium-action rod and a 7-inch Texas-rig worm with no sinker. To speed-worm, cast across hydrilla, lily pads, milfoil, water hyacinths or whatever, then reel the worm back across the cover as fast as you can. When the worm runs over holes in the cover, pause it momentarily, then resume the fast-swimming retrieve.
Normally you'll see the wake or swirl of an attacking bass before it hits. Then, delay setting the hook just long enough to make sure the bass has the bait and is swimming away with it.

• Wacky-worming — "Wacky" is an appropriate description for this specialized worm-fishing method. Take a 6-inch straight-tail worm, and add casting weight by pushing a small roofing nail (head sheared off) into the head of the worm. Then impale the worm on a 1/0 hook by running the point through the middle of the worm, leaving the point and barb exposed. Rigged properly, the two ends of the worm dangle loosely below the hook. This rig is used mainly in spring to catch bass spawning in vegetation but it can be effective at other times as well. Cast it close to beds, then either retrieve it just under the surface or let it fall to bottom, then hop it back slowly.

• Dead-worming — In clear water or when angler pressure is heavy, bass may dart away if a worm plops in from above. But given time, they will return to their original location, examine the worm and, many times, suck it in. Waiting for this to happen takes mountains of patience on the angler's part, but sometimes this "dead-worming" earns bites when no other technique will. To dead-worm (or dead-stick), cast a Texas-rig worm next to a grassy patch, stump, dock or whatever, then wait for 
the worm to settle to the bottom. After it hits, let it rest at least 10 seconds (20 is better!). Then move the worm very gently, and wait a few more seconds. Then shift the worm once more. If there's no bite, reel it in and try another spot.