Before looking through the entire Online Guide to find an answer to your questions you should first check out the questions and answers on this page ... it may save you a lot of time.

My toy has a serial number on the stitchplate but there are no other markings on the toy, where should I start looking. F.W. Muller's toys prior to WWII have a serial number on the stitchplate so I'd look there first.  If there are patent dates on the stitchplate I'd look at Baby, Soezy, Household Pet.

I have a chain-driven toy, any idea what it is? There are relatively few chain-driven toys so I suggest you check out those made by Hoge, Smith & Egge, Bing. Also look at the Bayerische,  and the Muller.

Any suggestions about cleaning our toys? (be sure to check out the Cleaning and Restoration Page) Personally I'd be very careful using any cleaner.  Some household cleaners are solvent based and in many cases will remove dirt, TOPCOAT, DECALS and PAINT.     WARNING:   Always test whatever cleaner you're going to use on an inconspicuous area of the toy. DO NOT USE Mr. Clean Lestoil -- Simple Green 409 Tuff Stuff Murphys Oil Soap etc, etc. Some of the above are no better than poring acid on your toys. Unfortunately some of them work on some of our toys with no trouble, however that same cleaner might be disastrous on the next toy you use it on. For example some folks use Tuff Stuff successfully on some toys, however I know from personal experience that 2 light applications on most Muller toys will cut through top coat, decals and paint.   409 will remove the decals from Featherweights with no trouble. Lestoil is like using sulfuric acid - total disaster. Here are some things to consider: 1. If your toy has loose or flaking paint - leave it alone. Any attempt at cleaning will just make matters worse. Flaking paint can sometimes be stabilized by removing all nickel parts and then spraying your toy with a satin or semi-gloss clear topcoat.  This has the effect of encasing the flaking paint and reducing some of the scaling.  Remember however that putting a new topcoat on your toy is a no-no from a valuation standpoint. Some collectors claim that top coating is OK, however I believe that is sheer nonsense. Clear top coating is the same as repainting your toy.  If you do it, and then subsequently sell your toy, I think you are obligated to tell prospective buyers ... and when you tell them it's been top coated it will effect value. Some unscrupulous sellers on eBay and elsewhere do this regularly (often using hairspray). It's very easy to spot (I know since I've got several in my collection). 2. If you still want to use some of the cleaners I mention above ( DON'T use them) ... then test an area of the toy (usually under the base) with several applications, using a white cloth.  Does the cloth show some of the paint color?  If so you are removing paint - don't use that cleaner.  Also remember that the undersides of our toys often do not have a topcoat so you really won't be able to tell if the topcoat will be affected.  When in doubt ...don't do it. 3. For cleaning purposes I often use a mild dishwashing soap in hot water, with a very soft toothbrush to remove dirt in crevices, etc (don't rub too hard and DON'T soak your toy). Dry it off by patting lightly with a cotton rag.  Then I clean by using light (non-detergent) sewing machine oil, rubbed gently over the toy and wiped lightly with a dry cotton rag --- this removes a good bit of dirt and often reduces the yellowing created by the top coat. As far as cleaning, polishing and buffing the nickel plated surfaces (bright work) I'll refer you to a great site on the net by a company that sells all the supplies you'll need.  When you get to their site go to the "Quick Menu" and then go to the "buff and polish booklet" -- it's Free and quite helpful. The company is called Caswell Plating -- here is the URL for their site http://www.caswellplating.com/ For those of you have found products that have consistently worked on all toys, please let us know so we can try them out

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