I didn't really need a new table, but after making a coffee table,
I was hooked on woodworking. I was so broke, I could barely afford the
wood. I was so broke I coveted a $10 el-cheapo block plane from the local
K-Mart, and couldn't afford to buy it. I was so broke I couldn't buy bar
clamps, so the first thing I had to do was make some home-made bar clamps
so I could glue up the top. Those bar clamps worked great, they not only
allowed great clamping pressure (useful because I wasn't able to cut the
boards perfectly straight on my little el-cheapo bench top saw), but they
also clamped the top flat at the same time they clamped the boards side
to side. They were a little awkward, but served their purpose well. The
tools used were the table saw, an el-cheapo belt sander, a little plastic
router, an el-cheapo jig saw, and a file. The router was a Christmas gift
from a girl friend who had no more money than I, so it was an extravagant
gift at the time, and my finest woodworking tool for a long time. You can
do amazing things with an inexpensive router with enough creative thought.
I still use it for light duty edge routing.
The table is primarily red oak, with two strips of cherry down the top
and down the back edges of the legs. The wood is all 5/4 (inches thick),
and was chosen for interesting grain and has lots of color variation. Even
now, 15 years later, I like to sit eating my breakfast and look at the
patterns and colors. It was stained using a mix of one part Minwax Golden
Oak, one part Minwax Special Walnut, and one part Watco Natural Danish
Oil. The dyes in this mix gave a nice golden brown that pulled out the
colors rather than overriding them, and the pigments in the walnut settled
in the pores drawing out the patterns.. The top coat is Varithane polyurethane
of some sort. This table is where I learned about super high grit wet/dry
sand paper and automotive polish. I was having a hard time getting that
perfect smooth finish and began experimenting. If you can polish car paint
(actually lacquer) with the stuff, it seemed like you ought to be able
to polish varnish. Years later I found out that I had reinvented the wheel!
Here
is a shot of the top. The strips of wood a thinner than I would use now,
although not thinner than seen in most commercial furniture. I jointed
the boards on my little 8 inch bench top saw with a hollow ground steel
blade which made an ok edge, but it was impossible to get a truly straight
edge over five feet of board. So, relied on the strength of the clamps
to pull the boards together, which required that the boards not be too
stiff. This is risky in the long run since this causes a lot of stress
in the top which can lead to cracks and other problems years later, but
it has held up fine for 15 years and the change in climate from Colorado
to Massachusetts, and was my only choice at the time. Two boards were glued
at a time, added to the outside edge, until the top was full size. The
jig saw would not cut an accurate line in such thick hardwood (at least
not with me behind the wheel) so I cut near the line and rounded over the
edge with the router. Then using a coarse file, I shaped the now thinner
edge into a smoother oval, and rerouted the edge. A few iterations and
it was a nice smooth oval.