Introduction
I'm mostly messing around with On30 right now, but I may try my hand at
O and HO in the future. I eventually want to totally scratchbuild a
locomotive, but
I'm sneaking up on it it.
BVM Dunkirk, No name lines!

I can't DCC this chassis very
easily. I probably will drop
it on another mechanism some day or clean it up and put it on E-Bay!
Still a very nice kit, it won Second Place in the Favorite Train
category at
O Scale
West 2005.
BVM Boxcab, Yosemite Short
Line
Another Boulder Valley models
resin kit on a newer
chassis that I can add DCC to. The YSL uses DCC so its a road
requirement. I think DCC did help us complete a layout in 18 months so
this is a good thing. I'm not playing with sound yet though! The roof
is 0.005 styrene with hand embossed rivets using a blue cutting mat and
a dull punch. This replaced the faux wood strips that the kit comes
with. I think a metal roof looks better with this critter, otherwise
known as the 'rolling outhouse'. Eccentric headlight by yours truly.
Backwoods Miniatures 2-6-2
Tank Engine
A nice etch bash kit
that drops on top of a HO
Bachmann 0-6-0. Destined for the South Pacific with guest appearances
on the YSL.
Construction Books
"Minature Locomotive
Construction" by John Aherne * (curio value)
John Aherne's book was OK for its time, it deals with
British prototypes. It is weak on suspension and framing, I'd pick up
the newer English books first. They distill 30+ years of thought in
motors, gearing, suspension and even soldering!
"The Complete Metalsmith" by Tim McCreight **** (a
useful inexpensive book)
"Practical
Casting, a Studio Reference" by Tim McCreight
Filled with
lots of information on manipulating small metal bits! Including low
tech photo-etching, soldering, bending, the works. Also I second Boone
Morrison's suggestion to take a class in
jewelry making. I was lucky, when I was living in Long Beach they
actually had a separate casting class. I was introduced to several
low-tech methods of casting.
"Building the Shay" by Kozo Hiraoka****(Live steam)
***(everyone else)
Kozo Hiraoka in his book, Building the Shay
describes a workable method of fabricating spoked wheels. He makes up
rib stock on his mill, machines a tread assembly and a center and
silver solders the mess together. Now for HOn3, you'd only have to
make one as a master, then take it to a jeweler and have him cast up
a bunch in sterling silver. Great electrical conductivity too!
Haven't tried it yet, but if I do I'll post some photos.
He also has a lot of other miscellaneous how to including
various
fabrication techniques suitable for the larger scales.
"The 4 mm Engine Scratchbuilders Guide" by Guy
Williams ****
Mr. Williams has written an outstanding book
about scratchbuilding locomotives. He begins by describing his
beginning efforts and how the model locomotive has improved. He then
explains the considerations to take into account when designing a
locomotive. Mr. Williams feels that rigid frames work fine for larger
locomotives and recommends suspensions only for the smaller ones.
He covers the basic tools, one of which is a small lathe and a method
of drilling precise holes using a older Unimat or a newer small drill
press. He covers the design and construction of the basic chassis and
getting it running. About half of the book covers the upper bodywork
including detailing methods and mass producing details. For example,
he has a description of machining domes. He uses a flycutter and
makes several light passes to machine off the bottom first. Then he
mounts the result via a tapped hole on a simple arbor. He then
finishes up with several scratchbuilding examples that should prove
useful to anyone. One of the few bugaboos is that there are no table
of contents. Since there is an index, this isn't that important.
112 pages, very well illustrated on glossy paper.
Wild Swan
Publications, available in America from: International Hobbies (530)
268-8715
"Etched Loco Construction" by Iain Rice ***
This
is a more specific book about building etched locomotive kits. There
seems to be a large number of British prototypes available in this
for along with a few American ones from such people as Brick Price
and Chivers. Mr. Rice also manufactures his own kits, he can be
safely counted as an expert in this field. The book includes a short
history of etched kits and their evolution and some of the current
professional techniques for producing them. The book also covers
tools and materials, most of them are easily available and I suspect
most hobbyists already have most of them on hand. In addition,
preparing and forming the etched parts is covered in its own chapter
along with some simple and easily constructed tools. A nice meaty
chapter explains how to solder and assemble the basic unit and
another chapter covers detailing in a fair amount of depth. The last
chapter is a chapter on finishing, it's not very meaty, but as Mr.
Rice points out, it's a subject worthy of its book. There's still
enough information here to do a good job with. 80 pages, very well
illustrated on glossy paper.
Wild Swan Publications, available in
America from: International Hobbies (530) 268-8715
"Flexichas" by Mike Sharman ***
Mr. Sharman
covers in great detail his methods for building fully compensated
locomotive chassis. He starts out with a brief review of the
principles then starts with bushes, sideframes and pickups. He
describes a simple axle jig used for alignment and then launches into
an explanation of the several suspension types such as pony trucks.
He then covers some methods for gearing your locomotive and winds up
with an appendix of wheel arrangements that cover all of the popular
wheel configurations.
The Flexichas book has a very good description of the Sharman
hornblocks. Anybody with even the cheesiest lathe can make them. Since
I normally model in O, my frames will probably be a bit over .020 since
except for very old American iron, this is too thin!
Some of this material is covered in Mr.
Williams's book as well as Mr. Rice's books. 36 pages, well
illustrated.
The Oakwood Press, available in America from:
International Hobbies (530) 268-8715
"Locomotive Chassis Construction in 4 mm scale" by
Iain Rice ****
Mr. Rice feels that a small machine shop
shouldn't be a prerequisite for building model locomotives. With the
sources of supply our English compatriots have access to, this may be
correct. The book's title says it all, a book on chassis
construction. It's fairly easy, even for American prototypes, to
obtain great gobs of goodies to show off to your friends. The problem
comes when it's time to push the stuff around the track. The book
starts with a brief history of chassis and comments on current
practices. He then runs through several methods used to assess a new
chassis kit. the most critical is that the rods, wheels frames all
have proper spacing. He then covers some methods of correction and
refinement for stock chassis. Mr. Rice then covers in great detail
pony trucks and the like followed by chassis compensation. He's a big
fan of the compensated chassis ala "Flexchas" and has come
up with several methods of applying this to manufactured chassis. He
then covers wheels, running gear and motors and winds it up with a
section on transmissions and tuning up your new chassis. If your
thinking of building any kind of locomotive kit, I highly recommend
this book. One of the few bugaboos that I have with this series is
that there are no table of contents or cross indexes in the books.
Don't let it stop you from getting any of these books. 160 pages,
very well illustrated on glossy paper.
Wild Swan Publications,
available in America from: International Hobbies (530) 268-8715
"Whitemetal Locos: A Kitbuilders Guide" by Iain Rice
***
There seem to be more American white metal kits than
etched kits, the MDC kits come immediately to mind. Mr. Rice follows
a similar pattern in this book to his Etched Loco Construction, he
covers the history and manufacture of white metal kits. Next he
covers the tools, including the special solders followed by a very
detailed chapter on preparing the castings including some cute tricks
like thinning the edges on a casting to make it look less bulky. He
then covers assembly techniques after which comes a section on basic
detailing. He then talks about "Gilding the Lily", an
excellent chapter on superdetailing followed by two chapters on
finishing. 64 pages, very well illustrated on glossy paper.
Wild
Swan Publications, available in America from: International Hobbies
(530) 268-8715
"How To Build Model Railroads and
Equipment" by Barton K. Davis
New York: Crown, Published 1956. Hard Card Covers
Good article on scratchbuilding an SP steam locomotive. Also has some
other good articles on rolling stock.
Magazine Articles
In general, if your interested in US locomotive construction,
they
can't be beat. There is a very old book by
Mel Thornburgh published in the fifties that I've never seen. There are
two fairly recent series in Model
Railroader.
The first was Gordon Odegard's series in 1981-2, the other was Steven
Anderson's recent series starting in Oct.
1997. I recommend getting hold of these because they are a good
starting point plus these are fairly cheap to obtain. They also cover
some recent American sources of
supply.
I
also have a several of Mel Thornburgh's series as well as others from
the 40's and 50's. For American
locomotives we don't currently have a Guy Williams or Iain Rice, so for
the most part we are stuck with the older works. The best Thornburgh
series is the one on the Wabash Mogul, he repeats all of his techniques
from earlier works and for narrow gaugers, moguls are a very common
wheel arrangement.
Reference Books
American locomotives, 1871-1881;
a collection of
locomotive drawings and plans with descriptions, specifications and
details, originally published in 1883 under the title Recent
locomotives, by Railroad Gazette Publishing
Recent
locomotives, by Railroad Gazette Publishing
Google Books
History
of the Baldwin Locomotive Works from 1831 to 1897 By Baldwin-Lima-Hamilton Corporation
Compound
Locomotives By Arthur Tannatt Woods,
David Leonard Barnes
The Early Motive Power of
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad By
Joseph Snowden Bell
The
Steam Engine: a Treatise on Steam Engines and Boilers By Daniel Kinnear Clark
Modern
American Locomotive Engines: Their Design, Construction and Management.
A Practical Work... By Emory Edwards
Catechism of the
Locomotive By Matthias Nace Forney
Locomotive
Breakdowns, Emergencies and Their Remedies By George Little Fowler
Encyclopedia of
Engineering: A Treatise on Boilers, Steam Engines, the Locomotive,
Electricity By International School of
Engineering
Modern
Locomotive Valves and Valve Gears By
Charles Leo McShane
The Railway
Locomotive: What it is and why it is what it is By Vaughan Pendred (Mostly English)
The
Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear By
William Wallace Wood, Probably more than you want to know.
Internet Resources
Improved
compensation for a 4-4-0
János
ERÖ model locomotives - absolutely fantastic
Lovely models, text is in Dutch
Rene Gourley
locomotive
Scratchbuilding link for 1/32nd brass
locomotives
Tom Mix -
Scratchbuilding drivers
Yet another
great site for pictures, text in Swedish
Internet Groups
Brass Loco
Builders - great group!
Brass Back shop - looks interesting
May not be that active
Tools
Guy Williams's and Iain Rice's chassis techniques are pretty
simple. Mr. Rice doesn't think a lathe should be required and Mr.
Williams quite often uses his as a drill press. They have the advantage
that the axle centers will be spot on even if you are not adding
compensation and building a rigid chassis. Odegard's chassis was sprung
while Thornburgh's and Anderson's is a rigid design. I want to try a
compensated chassis to see if they run that much better. People say
they do, but I always like to try things for myself.
Cool items the old-timers didn't have/use.
- Low temp solder. In the States, TIX is available, melts at
145C/275F.
- Cheap styrene shapes. You don't have to use metal for everything
and
it works better than wood for very thin flat sections.
- Wonderful adhesives, epoxy, ACC, loctite, etc.
- Good motors and gears. Even N scale can run slow now!
Bits and pieces
Frames
American style bar frames are roughly 3-4" thick in my period
of
interest (1890s), so 3/32" would be scale in 1/48. As the years go by,
the frames get thicker, 5-6". Getting
nickel silver in the thicker sizes is a pain! I may try tool steel
which Gordon Odegard recommends in his series and it is certainly flat
and strong. In this series, he recommends 1/8th", probably more than I
really need unless I build a really modern locomotive. I wouldn't
bother with cold rolled or hot rolled steel for frames, there's little
cost saving and they will not be as flat or stable after you machine
them. I've worked with cold rolled in the past, if you remove the
skin from one side and not the other, things get real ugly. One the
other hand notchs seem to be OK.
Hot rolled doesn't have the uniform thickness that cold rolled
has in these smaller sizes, I would have to flycut it to thickness to
get something decent. Real cheap though and available everywhere in the
US. I'm not going to normalize my frames for sure!
Drivers
The only problem that most of the
old-timers didn't have is drivers. Or maybe they had a big problem and
ignored it! For American locomotives, especially
in scales other than HO, you probably have to make or commission some
one to make them for you. Most of the articles start out, blah....buy
the drivers....blah, blah! I'm mucking about with an MDC kit, I've
chopped the body up a bit, next I'm going to build a new chassis. Gives
you drivers, motor, gears and a good start.
Springing or
Equalization
Tenders
