This is my first attempt at a how-to. Please let me know its usefulness, and anywhere I could improve. I have a digital camera, so I can always take more pictures.



Things you will need:
   

• #1 and #2 Phillips Screwdriver
• Cordless Drill w/driver bit and small drill bit
• Ratchet w/10 mm and 3/16 sockets
• Small Standard Screwdriver (precision)
• Needlenose Pliers
• #2 Pencil
• Ruler
• Double sided tape or glue
  
• Hole Saw or Jigsaw
• 2 Self-drilling screws, ~1" long
  
• Selection of Round and Flat Files
• Direct-Wire SmartCord from Escort.
• Passport Radar Detector
  

  

    First Step: Remove all pieces of the dash and pillar necessary to run wiring invisibly.


           

    Remove the pillar cover by pulling it towards the interior of the car from the top of the pillar cover. Ensure that three metal trim clips came off with the trim. If not, use a pair of needlenose pliers to prise them out of their holes in the pillar and replace them onto the trim with the foam as pictured above.

           
   
    Remove the visors (three screws each.) In the first picture, the second screw is difficult to see, it is opposite the one that is visible. To remove the second screw, the visor must be tilted out of the way.


           

    Remove the rearview mirror. Gently pry down on one side of the platic cover with a screwdriver. It will pop off, revealing three screws, which hold the mirror in place. Ensure that you unplug the maplight lead from the back of the mirror if it is a Spyder.

         


    !! These may not need to be removed !! Using a 3/16 socket, remove 2 bolts from each convertible latch point, and slide the points off.

   Now, the upper trim can be removed in the same manner as the pillar trim. Again, take care to replace the trim clips onto the trim.

 

    Next, removal of the five dash pieces in the way: trim surrounding the radio, trim surrounding the clock pod, the clock pod, trim surrounding the gauge pod and the fuse box cover.

    To remove the trim surrounding the radio requires removal of two screws at the bottom of the trim piece with the heads facing down. Once these are removed, lift the trim up and away from the dash. When the piece is clear, reach inside and unplugh the hazard button. Next grasp the trim surrounding the clock pod and pull it firmly away from the dash. With some effort, it will give way and come free of the dash with a popping noise as the two clips that hold it in pop loose. Remove the two screws from the side of the clock pod and disconnect the plug at its rear. This should leave the dash looking like the second picture above.

    To remove the trim surrounding the gauge cluster, first remove the four screws from the trim panel below the steering wheel which has the hood release mechanism attached to it. Pull this piece loose and let it hang down. Now, grasp the gauge trim and pull away from the dash and up slightly. Once it is loose, reach in and disconnect the dimmer switch.

    To remove the fuse box cover, open the driver's side door and pull the cover by its handle. It will come right off.



Second Step: Cut hole in trim piece for remote module.

    For this step I chose to mount the module in the empty space below the hazard button. In the previous step, The particular pieces of the dash removed reflect that choice. The module can of course be mounted anywhere, but I think the spot I chose is particularly handy.



    First, using a ruler, split the distance between the A/C vent holes evenly and draw a line down the center with a pencil. Mark the bottom point of the opening with a cross mark (I came up ~1/2".) Disassemble the module body by removing the screw, opening the module, and gently removing the circuitry. Put the two pieces of the module body back together, adn use this to make a paper template of the bottom of the module. Using double sided tape or glue, place the template in position, and trace around it with the pencil. Drill a hole out of the cutout area to allow for insertion of the hole saw or jig saw. Using the hole saw or jig saw, roughly cut out the inside of the desired area, leaving room for filework to ensure precise fitment. Then, use files on the remainder, checking work often by attempting to insert the module body.



Third Step: Run and connect wiring.

               

    The two wires leading from back of the module run together to the back of the gauge pod. Thread them between the two A/C vents and then under the small bit of trim between the clock pod area and the gauge pod area. From here, the wiring splits.

Run the SmartCord under the dash near the door into the fuse box area. Then run it behind the wire for the map lights and into the large hole atop the pillar. Feed it back out, continuing along the map light wiring, and finally dangle it out with the map light plug.






    Feed the red/black wire down behind the gauge pod and into the area below the dash, just above the pedals. Feed the wires over the steering column (pic. 1) and the brake light switch (pic. 2) In the pictures, there is another cord running in the same place. That is wiring from another modification, and won't be there.


 

    At this point, a powered line must be tapped for the positive wire to connect to. I chose the yellow wire as above for a nice effect. The yellow line there controls the power windows, which are on a delay circuit. Tapping this line will cause the detector to stay on for thirty seconds after the car is off or a door is opened.
    To tap the line, slip the included tap around the line and crimp it onto the line with a pair of pliers. Then, slip the spade onto the tap, ensuring the protective cover is fully in place.

    Now, unbolt the grounding bolt, and thread the ground wire onto it. It will be necessary to bore out the ground wire end a little. Use a small drill bit for this, or get a larger end and recrimp the ground wire. Once the ground wire is attached, rebolt the whole thing back into the metal plate.