Solutions

J/32 owners should check a fuel hose on their Yanmar 3GM30F engines to ensure that it is the proper part. The fuel hose is the short U-shaped loop near the oil dipstick between the fuel lift pump and the fuel filter. If the fuel hose is a rubber hose covered in a SS braid with pressed on clamps (NOT hose clamps) at the banjo bolt fittings, then it is the correct part. If it is a hose fastened with standard hose clamps, then read on as you have an incorrect part with a potential for a diesel fuel leak.

My J/32 with a Yanmar 3GM30F YEU (E-prefixed serial number) engine, as it was delivered to me in 2002, had a plain rubber fuel hose that was fastened with hose clamps. The fuel filter side was actually double-clamped with a 2nd SS hose clamp put on by the commissioning marina. My presumption is that it leaked at that time, hence the 2nd hose clamp.

Note: It is my assumption that the hose and hose clamps were installed at the factory as 1.) The hose clamps matched the other Yanmar hose clamps on the engine and 2.) The hose and hose clamps were completely painted.

The setup worked OK for 3 seasons (2002-2004) but on the last day of the 2004 season, a small leak developed where the hose was clamped onto the banjo bolt fitting at the fuel filter. During the recent 2005 season spring commissioning, I attempted, unsuccessfully, numerous times to replace the hose and re-clamp it with hose clamps. Each time it would leak at the fuel filter banjo bolt fitting once some pressure was introduced with the fuel lift pump.

My initial presumption was that what was originally installed was correct. However, things weren't making sense. 1.) The banjo bolt fittings where the hose was being attached were not barbed nor did they have a rib. 2.) The parts catalog showed a complete hose assembly which included the hose and banjo bolt fittings, and 3.) I had a brochure photo of the engine which clearly showed a different setup.

So I dropped an email to the folks at Marine Diesel Direct describing the problem and my conclusions. Simply put, the answer was: hose clamps are no good and should not be there. Further part 128370-59081 with proper fuel type banjo bolt fittings is the answer.

Once I obtained the correct parts (fuel hose assembly with some new copper gaskets), I had everything installed within 15 minutes.

I'm finally getting around to posting photos of the hot water heater fixes I've done on Stringendo. All the plastic fittings have been replaced by bronze/brass (except the cold water inlet fitting). I used a combination of 3/4" elbows, reducers to 1/2" pipe thread, and then 1/2" - 5/8" hose barb for the engine hoses and 1/2" - 1/2" hose barb for the hot water outlet hose. I previously had a problem with the hot water outlet elbow popping off (see note below 5/26/04), and a discussion with Atlantic Marine provided the suggestion that the typical gray plastic fittings are not adequately rated for temperature. No problems any more, no leaks at all. Here is a photo of the plumbing before the upgrade, and another of the finished job.

Note that instead of teflon tape, I used a rub-on stick pipe joint compound, as recommended for high-temperature fittings.

All J/32 owners should inspect the sealed compartment below the anchor locker for water intrusion. Another owner has contacted me with the same problem that I had. That is, water leaking into the compartment via the starboard side anchor locker drain.

Unfortunately, the compartment can be filled with water without knowing it -- until water starts seeping through the bulkhead. Mine was filled for 6 months while the other owner had it filled for two years! Note also that the backside of the bulkhead is bare, UNCOATED plywood.

Install a drain as I have done or install a small deck plate.

I thought I would pass along a tip about AC condensate. We have a Cruisair AC (shore power only) unit on Hull #29 Floridays. There is a de-humidifying program on the Cruisair, which makes it come on several times a day with a fan/AC cycle that dries the air. Unfortunately, the condensate was just allowed to run into the bilge under the engine, with the result being that I had to mop out my bilges a couple times a week, and the keel bolts were always wet or under water, even if the bilge pump eventually came on. A friend told me about a device from Mermaid Marine called a "condensator" which attaches to your raw AC cooling water exhaust, creates a venturi effect, and siphons the water from your AC pan. It cost $139 and was easy to install. I bought mine off the web at http://www.firstmatescabin.com/page10.htm Dry bilges now, except for rainwater down the mast!

I noticed your recent entry in the J/32 owners site re: your water heater. I have been having the exact same problem- the relief valve burps just as the water pump builds up pressure to its shutoff set point. I too suspected that the relief valve was old and tired, so I replaced it- $20 at an independent San Diego chandlery. But if anything it now burps worse. So, the root problem is not the water heater relief valve, but it is very likely the water pump pressure switch. The water pump pressure builds up to the 75 psi relief valve setting before it shuts off. The pressure switch should shut off at 35 psi. My J has a Flojet water pump and I just ordered a new switch from WM at $21. I expect that will finally solve the problem. The Flojet part number for the switch is 020900-104.

I've been having some minor but consistent problems with my hot water heater. At least once per season I've found the temp-pressure relief valve popping open, and I've been assuming it's caused by temperature, not pressure. However on a recent trip the hot water hose coupler (a gray plastic elbow with pipe thread on one side and hose barb on the other) popped off while motoring. The threads were partially stripped out of the fitting, but I was able to seal it well enough with teflon tape to make it through the trip with only minor dripping. After coming home I wrote Atlantic Marine and learned that they suspected temperature, and that the plastic fitting may not have been rated for the 190+ temperature that may have been developed by the engine cooling water. I will try to find a Marelon fitting, which should be rated for higher temps.

I also have tried to find a spare 75psi PT valve, but have not been able to locate a source other than Atlantic Marine ($26.25 each!). Pretty pricey considering that the exact same valve in a 150psi rating is available at home stores for $8 or so.

The J/32 has a sealed compartment (crash bulkhead?) at the base of the bow that is below the anchor locker and forward of the V-Berth bulkhead. Since it is sealed, it prohibits inspection (and drainage of water).

Unfortunately, on my hull (#80) it filled with water (approx 10-20 gallons) due to a leak at the anchor locker drain. I discovered it when a small amount of water started oozing through the bulkhead into the storage area below the V-Berth.

My problems were to 1.) drain the compartment and 2.) fix the leak. I drained the compartment by drilling a small hole near the bottom of the bulkhead. After fixing the leak, I still wanted some access to the compartment.

My solution was to install a drain plug at the base of the bulkhead. I installed a SeaFit plastic transom drain tube and plug (West SKU 307506, $3.99) as low as possible in the V-Berth bulkhead.

To prevent pooling of water in the area below the drain hole I filled the bottom of the compartment with West System epoxy until it was level with the drain hole. Since the surface where the transom drain plug was installed was not flat, it was bedded, during installation, with 3M 4200 Marine Adhesive Sealant.

As seen in the photograph, I keep the plug out, but nearby in case of an emergency. This way I can check to see if any water has accumulated in the bow compartment.

I didn't like the sharp hairpin turn that was made by the propane hose as it joined the tank fitting. So I replaced the straight coupling with a 1/4" 90 degree NPT elbow (WATTS #A-727) purchased at my local home improvement warehouse for about $2. As you can see in the after photograph, the angle is much better.

For us boaters in the northern latitudes, one of the rituals in the Fall is the winterization of the boat as it is put to bed for the winter. One of the tasks is to drain the water system and fill all of the fresh water plumbing hoses with pink RV antifreeze. To avoid putting 6 gallons of antifreeze into the HW tank, we drain it. However, trying to remove the cold, hard, plastic tubing from a barbed fitting is virtually impossible.

To simplify the process I installed a set of nylon hose connector fittings on the cold and hot water supply lines at the tank. Total cost under $20. By putting opposite connectors on each line I can join the cold water input line to the hot water output line. This enables me to winterize the hot water lines while bypassing the HW tank. It can also be used in an emergency situation should the HW tank fail.

To open the backflow preventer in order to drain the tank, I insert a long nylon cable tie up the hose. They are small in diameter and flexible enough to follow the bends.

I attach 2 photos of Voador’s nav. area, and the arrangements with which I am very happy:

Notes re Nav. 1 (photo here): Removable seat, which disassembles and stows in nav table locker (batteries are under port settee): Vertical stainless bar, useful for handhold in seaway, and attachment point for lee cloths: Thin backrest cushions velcroed onto laminate create more berth width: Roll up Velcro attached curtains : NB the easy access to the head.

Notes re Nav 2 (photo here): Aircraft type folding door to head, clips open and closed, does not obstruct nav table and provides privacy when necessary: Velcro curtain rolled down.

Meanwhile, we completed last week a 1900 mile, 5 week singlehanded cruise to some Atlantic Islands (Porto Santo, Madeira, Ilhas Selvagens and Desertas, and La Gomera in the Canaries). Voador behaved beautifully, was fast on the down and upwind legs.

Some further additions/modifications are planned (radar, fridge, 3^rd battery and larger alternator) with the Azores as the 2004 objective. I would like to hear from people who have fitted radars; which is the best way?

Numerous articles have been written about replacing the standard single 1/Both/2/Off battery switch with a better setup.

A recent SailNet article: http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/prt_article.cfm?artID=jeffre0011

I'll summarize a few of my key reasons:
1. Isolation of the engine starting battery and "house" battery.
2. Elimination of the voltage drop when starting the engine. This saves the electronics from shutting down.
3. No need to remember to switch from "house" battery to "engine" battery before starting the engine.
4. No need to remember to parallel (i.e., switch to "Both") the batteries when charging under engine.
5. No need to remember to un-parallel the batteries after shutting down the engine (back to "house")

Reason numbers 3-5 above are enough of a nuisance and number 5 above is the most common error and cause for a dead engine starting battery.

On "Liberty" (Hull #80) I have the 3rd Battery Option. The three batteries makes an ideal setup. One battery is dedicated to the engine for starting, while the other two run the "house", electronics, and Auto Pilot. However, the procedure can also be done even if you have only two batteries.

The original Guest 1/Both/2/Off battery switch was replaced with two Guest "Cruiser Series" Model 2102 On/Off Switches. The Guest "Cruiser Series" switches were chosen as they matched the original switch installed at the factory as well as the hole in the bulkhead. One switch is dedicated to the engine while the other switch controls the house.

A West Marine Battery Combiner 50 is used to combine the batteries during charging.

A Blue Sea Model 9005 - 2 position, OFF-ON with removable key Mini Switch was added to parallel the batteries when needed. This model is able to be panel mounted using a 7/8" hole through the bulkhead.

See the wiring diagram for the details.

Photos:
"Before"
"Components" {L->R} Blue Sea Mini On/Off w/Removable Key, (2) Guest On/Off, {top} West Marine Combiner
"Holes for Switches"
"After"
"Backside" before the protective covers have been replaced.

All these photos and the location of the batteries in newer J/32 production can be found here.

I wanted to pass along some encouraging results with tuning our ST4000 autopilot.

Like other J/32 owners with ST4000 autopilots, I was very frustrated with its performance. I finally called Raymarine's technical service line -- 1-800-539-5539. A representative answered promptly. I expressed my frustration with poor course keeping and asked if a rudder position transducer would provide significant improvement. He answered quickly that I would not get $400 worth of improvement (the transducer is only essential for hydraulic steering units); then continued to suggest that I try what they call "The Catalina Cocktail". Evidently Raymarine has received lots of complaints about the ST4000 and spent considerable time testing & tuning a unit on a Catalina 34.

The suggested settings are:
    Rudder Gain    2
    Response        2
    AutoTrim          2
    Drive Type       2

He recommended that I set these values using the Dealer Setup procedure. Then make sure that the compass deviation has been corrected.   He strongly encouraged using this group of parameters and
testing on the water before making any other changes. The Turn Rate limit could be used for fine tuning if necessary.

We made these changes and were quite surprised and pleased with the improvement. The first test sail was in light, but gusty winds. The autopilot worked well both on the wind and deep-reaching. It responded correctly to gusts.

Our second test sail was in stronger winds. When nearly rail down with significant weather helm, the unit lacked the power to handle the situation though it made a good attempt. After we reefed the main and reduced the weather helm, the autopilot performed acceptably.

The autopilot is now working well enough that we will not have to hand steer all the time when cruising. It may not be a star performer, but it has at last become a useful tool.

I've scanned in some photos of the Sigmar 100 heater installation aboard Sirius. In order to position the charlie noble at a reasonably convenient point on the coach roof, I needed to use a pair of 45-degree
bends in the flue so that it exits the coach roof closer to the center line. This required that I move the table away from the wall so that the flue could pass behind it. Hence, I designed and built a storage unit somewhat similar to the magazine rack that Tony Blanchard built for his boat. Our unit holds items primarily used while dining -- glasses, wine glasses, a couple of bottles, etc.

One of the attached photos shows a heat shield that I installed around the flue where it passes close to the coach roof. This works very well. The multi-speed fan atop the storage unit is used primarily to
circulate cabin air and extract a bit more of the heat that is going up the flue. The heater is closer to the wall of the storage unit than is desirable. (Sigmar recommends at least 6 inches of horizontal spacing.) Hence, I placed additional stainless steel heat shields on the side of the storage unit.

The primary problem we've had with this heater was back-drafting when using it under sail. Our heater seems to be particularly prone to back drafting problems when burning at a low flame (i.e. when only a bit of heat is desired). The solution that has worked well for us (but with limited sea time so far) is the use of a draft assist fan. The Sigmar heater comes standard with a tail piece that contains a damper valve.
This is used to reduce the draft when running the heater at a low flame. Otherwise, the flame will tend to burn down in the pot instead of above it. This will cause a big increase in soot up the flue and carbon deposits in the burner pot. Sigmar also sells a multiple speed draft assist tail piece for use in installations where back drafting is a problem.

Normally, one uses one or the other of these tail pieces. However, we found it much more convenient to adapt the draft assist fan unit onto the bottom of the damper value tail piece. This way we always have the ability to reduce draft with the damper valve for low burn rates, but can turn on the draft assist fan to force combustion air past the damper valve when needed to prevent back drafting.

Dick had reported that he was unable to adjust his factory-installed refrigerator to avoid freezing everything. Here's his report:

TPI sent me to the Sea Frost people who sent me to their web site http://www.seafrost.com/tstatcalib.htm where it tells you about the second thermostat adjustment under the cover of the primary adjuster.

Newer J/32s are being built with the batteries on the starboard side instead of the original location under the nav table. This may be intended to reduce or eliminate the port list that has been noticed on some boats. Here is some detail on the new location.

The dual group 27 batteries are located in the aftmost pigeon hole behind the starboard settee cushion. Thus losing one pigeon hole for storage. There is a small shelf so that the batteries can sit on it. The opening is covered by a removable panel.

The optional 3rd battery is located under the galley sink behind the foot pump.

All wiring runs behind the galley and stove into the starboard quarter berth/locker to the main power switch which is located on the bulkhead wall just left of the engine cover latch.

Note that I plan on installing a dual On/Off + Combine switch setup to isolate the batteries. The charging will be done via a West Marine Battery Combiner. My plan is to do this in April before launch. I'll be taking photos for the "Solutions" section.

Attached are the photos of the PORTshades and the Universal SKYscreen.

The Universal SKYscreen is a combination shade and screen. I got size 60X which matches the opening of the Lewmar forward hatch.

The PORTshades for the long port lights were custom ordered. The smaller port lights were stock. The US distributor can find a dealer in your area: http://www.maritimetrading.net/

2/24/03: Over the last week a thread has been running on the Sailnet J/32 email list. Here is a summary:

MaxProps are great, smooth and far superior to the Martec folding prop especially backing down. They are very expensive, however.

16-inch three-blade MaxProps have been installed with 24 and 22 degree pitch settings.

Flex-O-Fold feathering props are also popular and some owners think they are great. 2-blade versions have been noted to vibrate but a counterbalancing collar has improved this.

Some controversy still exists about the "right RPM" at cruising speed, hull speed, and/or full throttle. Yanmar specs say max HP is reached at 3600 RPM but J/Boat manual says "normal" cruising should be at 2600 - 2800 RPM. Most people find that hull speed can be reached near 3000 RPM and this seems to be the middle ground. It has been reported that Yanmar does not recommend running for any length of time at the maximum 3600 RPM.

(I know I could be stepping into deep yogurt here, please let me know how deep - Don)

On 2/24/03 Randy Whitney wrote: Last winter I designed and had installed the attached nav seat in my J32, Alleycat. Wayfarer Marine in Camden ME. did the fabrication and design "tweaks". It looks "original" and functions very well. There is a removable pin to anchor it in the position you see. The head door swings free at all times. On both tacks, work at the nav station is easy; not to mention talking with the helms person. At anchor, this was the most sought after seat! I showed pictures to Al Johnstone at the mid-winter rendezvous last march, but so far it's not optional equipment from "J"! Share with other "32" owners. I'll be interested on their comments.

(Here is a link to photos of this great enhancement. I'll publish any comments you may have)

On 8/23/01 Norm Ramsey wrote: For those considering an upgrade to a Max-Prop. We upgraded Imaginair to a 3 bladed Max-Prop this year and I can't say enough good things about it. Of the 3 props we've had on our boat (Martec folding 2 blade, 3 blade fixed and now the max-prop) it is by far the smoothest under power-virtually no vibration at any rpm, and no more drag than the Martec-which is minimal as you know. It was well worth the expense. Go for it! By the way, great efficiency in reverse as well.

It may, however, take a bit to get the prop properly tuned (pitch) to the boat. I believe each boat is a bit different in that regard.

On 8/7/01 Jonathan Udell wrote: We have been J-Boat dealers since 1986 and are the dealer that sold Shane & Joanna Creamer their hull #24, Shearwater. A few notes:

The teak faced main bulkhead (aft face only) is a home run and I strongly advise it to anyone who wants to warm up the boat. Just make sure that if you order the pull out starboard double that the slider channel is then done in brown rather than white so it blends in with the bulkhead better.

Note that Shane is not a fan of the Autohelm 4000 wheelpilot. No small wonder. It is a marginal unit for this boat regardless of the spec's. We have done three 32's with belowdeck Simrad/Robertson AP11 systems using linear hydraulic rams. (#27, and #68, and we consulted for an owner in New England who bought his yacht up there, unsure of his hull #) Fantastic equipment. Not cheap, but you get your money's worth.

On 5/30/01 Anthony Blanchard wrote: I've added a PYI P.S.S. shaft seal to my boat to replace the stuffing box. It works great with absolutely no drips. The 1" shaft and 2 1/4" stern tube combination isn't in the West Marine catalog but it is available.

In a previous email I told you I also installed a Shurflow washdown pump. The pump is located in the upper v-berth vanity cabinet with the output hose running to a faucet in the anchor locker. I have a digital picture of this if you're interested. For the seawater intake, I tee'd into the v-berth sink drain. I have to make sure the sink stopper is in place for proper suction, but it works fine.

I installed the v-berth sink, new thru hull ($436) and plumbing just to have an input for the washdown pump. The only faucet I found that fits the v-berth sink is available from TPI for $148, yikes!!

On 5/30/01 Anthony Blanchard wrote: I finally got around to photographing my galley table magazine rack and the
book case sliding doors on my boat. Check 'em out...
Tony

A very nice project, and one that I have had in mind for a couple of years. Thanks! Click here for photo

On 5/30/01 Anthony Blanchard wrote: Inspired by the sliding doors in a friend's J-40, I purchased a 1/4 sheet of 1/4" teak plywood and a 1/2 x 6 x 3ft teak board from Defender. The (4) finished doors measure 15 1/2" x 11 1/4". I used a dark stain to hide the edge laminations. The (4) "door slides" were ripped to measure 1/2 x 1 1/4 x 29 3/4 then the 9/32 wide x 5/16 deep grooves were dadoed (see photos) leaving about 1/8" between the grooves. Leave the slides long and trim them at assembly. The top slide is attached directly to the underside of the bookshelf and the bottom slide has to be shimmed up 1/8 to 1/4" from the settee shelf since the setee shelf is not flat. Before trimming the bottom slide, check the squareness of the vertical end piece of the stock bookshelf to the top shelf (not the setee shelf). If not square, relocate the angle bracket on the setee shelf until square and then trim the bottom slide ( I messed up here). Doing this, the doors will butt up nicely to the vertical end piece. Currently on mine, the gap and shims of the bottom slides are sort of hidden by the setee molding but I will eventually be covering the gaps with 3/8" quarter round teak on the inside and outside to prevent things from rolling into the gap and lost. The handles were made from teak scraps. I varnished the parts with Interlux 60 satin finish which seems to make the teak more reddish as it ages, thus (sort of) matching the stock teak.

Since my wife thinks they look too much like "boxes", I may eventually be adding more teak trim to dress them up but, right now, I think they look fine.

On 2/12/01 Dennis McMann wrote: Cleaning out my old J32 files. Thought this might be useful.

On 2/9/01 Don Knull wrote: I installed tank gauges for the two water tanks and the holding tank. I used a three-tank "Gaugetronics" unit sold by West Marine. It is also available from the manufacturer in other styles and sizes, but they all work on the same principle. Foil strips are first attached to the plastic tanks (will not work on metal tanks!) and then small electronic sensor modules are connected to the strips and to wiring that is lead back to the control panel. Add 12V and with a push of a button you get a level reading that shows 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 - Full etc. I have read that this is the most reliable and leakproof system available (no holes in the tank) and the installation was really very easy.

I placed the control panel on the fiberglass panel right above the flip door to the garbage can. I didn't really want to cut a 2" X 9" hole in the fiberglass, so instead I made a teak bezel that is about 1/2" thick and fitted to the control panel dimensions. This is surface mounted and the wires fit through a small hole into the space above the garbage can. The wiring is routed under the sole. I had to pull the water tanks out to put the sensors on, but this is not too hard by removing the wood strips that support the seats. The holding tank can be done without removing it.

On 5/10/00 Don Knull wrote: I have been bothered by wires slapping inside the mast while at anchor. I assumed it was caused by the wiring from the KVH wind instruments that were installed at the dealer soon after I took delivery on Stringendo. I put up with it until last month when I had the boat hauled for bottom paint and maintenance (first time out of the water in over two years). We pulled the mast and took a look. It turns out the noise was not from the wind instruments, but rather from the 12v wiring for the mid-mast steaming light. Inside the mast there is a conduit that goes the full length, and the masthead wiring was properly captured inside this conduit. However there is no mid-mast entry into this conduit, so the steaming light wire was just hanging open. The dealer in Anacortes added a second conduit halfway up and enclosed the wires inside it. No more noise!

The conduit is held inside by a rather interesting method: the mast extrusion includes (on the outside) the mainsail track and (on the inside) two small open grooves all the way up (one on each side of the outer mainsail track). The conduit is first fitted with periodic rivets that are secured in holes in the conduit, but with their heads raised from the surface of the conduit by about 1/4 inch. The conduit is then slid up from the bottom of the mast, with these rivet heads sliding in the small open grooves. Therefore it is easy to route two conduits inside the mast, one to the top and the other just halfway. Slick! I have some photos that might help visualize this.

On 5/10/00 Don Knull wrote: Another issue that has been raised with the J/32 is the fact that the shallow bilge areas between the engine compartment and the deep bilge will not empty completely because the limber holes are not completely down tight to the bottom of the bilge. My yard improved this on Stringendo by drilling the limber holes out to 2-inches in diameter, using a hole saw, and with the bottom of the holes very deep in the bilge. They then sealed the cut hole and epoxied in tubing to finish out the hole. This seems to help, although not completely eliminating the problem. However, I believe that there is no real risk of problems from this standing water. It is not under pressure like the outside water under the hull, and therefore is very unlikely to cause blisters or water intrusion into the fiberglass. The only issue I foresaw was potential odors from stagnant water, and it's not hard to keep it clean anyway.

On 1/24/00 Tony Blanchard wrote: My latest project was to replace the rusty Yanmar engine stop cable with a Morse cable. It was twice as expensive as the Yanmar cable but since it's stainless steel, it should be maintenance free. I replaced the entire cable assy with a 15' Morse utility cable # 18872-180 (p/n from West Marine catalog- may not be correct) with the Tee handle. It is a little too long but it will work by extending some of the excess towards the transom. Where the cable attaches to the engine will require some imagination - my Yanmar guy gave me an adapter (for a Volvo engine) that threads onto the end of the outer jacket that then can be jam nutted onto the Yanmar. Perhaps a couple of stainless 3/8 nuts threaded directly onto the jacket could be used to attach the cable onto the engine.

On 1/25/00 John Bloom wrote: The Yanmar maintenance schedule suggests that the head bolts be re-torqued and the valves adjusted after approximately (see service manual) the first 80 hours of operation. I called the Mack Boring service department to get their view, and they also strongly recommended doing so. Their rationale was that the head gasket tends to compress over time, during the initial life cycle of the engine, and the potential for related problems exists. I have never performed this service on any of the 4 other sailboats equipped with Yanmar engines that I have owned, nor experienced any problems. It should be noted however, that I never kept any of those boats longer than 5 years. Do you or any other owners have any thoughts on this?

On 1/5/00 Don Knull wrote: I have noticed some buildup of white powdery material inside my hot water heater (an Atlantic Marine 6-gallon unit installed at the factory). I noticed this when I replaced the pressure/temperature relief valve after it started leaking. I was advised that the powdery residue was one indication of the failure of the magnesium anode that protects the water heater tank from galvanic corrosion. The other indication is a sulfur smell from the hot water. I have also noticed this.

I ordered a replacement anode from Atlantic Marine ($20) and now have it. However, when I tried to install it I discovered that it is mounted right in the top of the tank and there isn't room above the tank to get the new one in. I suppose I must pull the whole tank out to change this, but if anyone has a better idea I'd like to hear it. I've put photos here of the new part if you are interested.

On 11/24/99 Dick McCurdie wrote: I learned today from North Island Boats' Yanmar mechanic that my exhaust system has way too much back pressure. It exceeds the limits imposed by Yanmar by a lot and will shorten the life of the rings and other internal parts. It's because the exhaust exits through the hull underwater. He says to cure the problem the exhaust should exit through the transom. Or a quick fix is to T off the exhaust hose and run another hose through the transom. I'm going to have that done now while Winsome is still in the yard, and maybe next year have the exhaust routed directly out the back. Craig, the mechanic, was very persuasive. He told me about a Hunter model he knew of where several hundred boats had been built to incorrect Yanmar specs and that serious problems started arising just about when and as expected. Nobody was aware of the problem until too late. One obvious symptom of too much back pressure is a slow starting engine and black soot coating the transom. I had both. I thought the engine started OK, but he said it should start even faster. I did have the soot problem but thought it was from being over propped. That will do it too, so I had the Max Prop tweaked back a notch. Between these two operations, the soot problem should be fixed. I'll let you know. By the way, the Yanmar manual says somewhere that you should get at least 3600 rpms at full power under way to be propped right. The dealer told me 3400 was correct, but this was not up to date. That was correct for earlier models. You might like to talk to Craig too and let him check your boat out. He also found that the freshwater cooling expansion tank was installed too high and repositioned it.

I forwarded this information to J/Boats, and on 1/14/00 Alan Johnstone wrote:

Just a quick note to let you know that Yanmar tested the J/32 in Annapolis this week and approved the J/32 engine system engineering, layout, exhaust run and backpressure. The backpressure test showed no measurable backpressure at idle, .5 pounds at 2000rpm, 1 pound at 3200rpm and 1.5 pounds at full throttle. These readings are all well within Yanmar recommended maximum.

As for Dick McCurdie's boat, we are looking at other potential causes the problem. For example, it may be a bad muffler.....though it's still too early to tell without further testing. We are in direct communication with the mechanic and owner in order to solve the problem. TPI has fielded a few calls from concerned J32 owners who now think they may have a backpressure problem after reading Dick's letter on your web site. In speaking with the mechanic who diagnosed the problem, he mentioned that Dick's engine was difficult to start. My advice therefore is that if there is difficulty starting the engine: 1) Check the Yanmar manual and follow normal troubleshooting procedures, 2) If the problem persists after normal systems checks, fuel bleeding etc.. he/she should have the motor checked by a qualified Yanmar mechanic, 3) Mechanic should decide if backpressure testing is necessary and/or a contributing factor to the problem.

TPI is confident that the exhaust system as installed and spec'd on the J/32 is sound and Yanmar has signed off on it. The case with Dick's boat is being handled as an isolated case. Please let me know if you have any additional questions on the subject.

I also passed along the comment that many of us have noticed pooling water that cannot run into the bilge because it is trapped behind the stringers below the level of the limber holes. On 11/30/99 Alan Johnstone wrote:

It is very difficult to install limber holes as close to the hull as we'd like to see on the J/32 due to the infused grid and so a small drainage problem can occur where bilge water does not completely drain forward to the sump, as is documented by some owners. We are working on some new ideas here with TPI engineers and production staff. In addition, the J/32 with full cruising gear and crew aboard can accentuate the problem with stern down trim. The best solution at this point is to fill up the problem areas with epoxy to the level of the limber holes when the boat is out of the water and in very stern down trim. It seems the two bilge areas immediately aft of the keel are the heart of the problem.

On 6/7/99 Tony Blanchard wrote: I wonder if any of the other J-32 owners have had this problem and perhaps have a solution:

On my boat there is a vented loop between the heat exchanger seawater output and the mixing elbow of the exhaust system. This vented loop is located above the engine. Whenever the vented loop drips due to a salt crystal forming between the poppet and it's seat, sea water drips on the hot engine. I now have considerable amount of rust on my 2 year old engine. Yes, I have replaced the vented loop only to have that one eventually foul too. I have been considering adding longer hoses and relocating the vented loop on the aft wall of the engine compartment so the if it leaks, it drips on the stuffing box. Any suggestions?

On 6/29/99 Tony Blanchard followed up with this: I believe I solved my problem by removing the check valve on top of the vented loop, attaching a 3/8 hose (4ft long or so) onto the vented loop , drilling a 7/8 hole in the forward upper starboard side of the engine compartment and routing the hose thru the 7/8 hole, over the lazaret access door and continue along the bulkhead up into the forward winch island area (high as possible). I then installed the checkvalve on the upper end of the hose. Now if the checkvalve wants to leak, it only leaks on your junk stored in the lazaret rather than the engine. Since the end of the hose is now so high, perhaps water cannot get up that high to leak out the checkvalve!
I don't think standing water in the new hose when heeling to starboard will be a problem since the exhaust thruhull is out of the water on that tack. When on port tack and the exhaust thruhull is underwater, any suction created will open the checkvalve and pull the standing water back into the exhaust system. The hose probably should be drained for winterization if there are low areas when the boat is level.
I used 3/8 fuel hose since I wanted a hose designed for engine use and coolant hose was only available as small as 1/2 ID. I found a nylon adapter at the hardware store with a 3/8 hose barb on one end and a 3/8 male pipe thread on the other. The adapter currently on the checkvalve will have to be removed.
I have approx (1) hour of engine time on the engine since this fix with no surprises.

On 2/10/00 Don Knull followed up with this: I installed the same modification described by Tony and it is easy and effective. I still need to clean the rust and repaint the engine, but the problem of water dripping is gone. I talked to a Yanmar distributor at the Seattle Boat Show and he said this is a common installation/design problem.

On 5/20/99 Bob Mac Donald wrote: Small tip to keep anchor line dry: Clean the ends of the deck bolts in the forward anchor line locker. Get 2 (two) 1/4 inc. "eye" nuts. Put these nuts on port &starboard bolts. Take a line and knot it on port side. Make up your anchor line and thread the line through the anchor line .Tie off on starboard side. This keeps the line out of the water in bottom of locker.

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