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A grabbag of a few favorite recipes, and some other food- and cooking-related items.
Some are original recipes; most are my version or adaptation of ones from other sources. None are hard to prepare, but all are flavorful, time-tested and have become favorites. Fruit Tart - Apple |
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Mole Coloradito Shepherd Potatoes Stuffed Poblanos Leeks with Ginger and Shrimp Curried Cauliflower Mustard-breaded Chicken Cutlets Mushroom Sausage Stew Hearty Vegetable Soup Potato pancakes aka Latkes or Kartoffelpuffer Baking Fruit Tart Pinwheel Cookies Hazelnut Crescents Hazelnut Balls Marmalade Drop Cookies Spitzbuben (Sandwich Cookies) Filled Yeast Doughnuts Breakfast Crepes Grilling - A Summertime Thing Exceptional Gin and Tonic Other (not really recipes) Stewed Red Plums (or Rhubarb) Mashed Potatoes Scrambled Eggs Heirloom Tomatoes Matzoh with Melted Cheese and Salsa Ethnic German Food |
Mole ColoraditoEver since tasting mole poblano in the late 1960s, I've enjoyed it and used it as a personal evaluation of "Mexican" restaurants. I've been partial to the version served at Casa Mexico in Cambridge for decades (unfortunately they closed a few years ago). The Mexican chocolate which goes into this mole, off-putting to some, is perfect with the chiles and other ingredients.
Over the last few years, I've gathered the courage, and had the time, to try making some moles myself. With many ingredients and many steps, it's quite a production which will take a good half day to prepare. With that much effort, it's a good idea to make a sizable amount to use in future meals. Mole freezes well.
Recipe for Mole Coloradito.
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Shepherd PotatoesPublished in the NYTimes Food Section some years ago, this has become a real favorite. Cooking small potatoes with serrano chiles, lime juice and cilantro gives them a great flavor and some tingle. My daughter Ruth developed a variant with brussel sprouts instead of potatoes that is also very good.
I much prefer the flavor and bite of serrano chiles over the more widely used jalapeños.
I've often made these potatoes to accompany "hamburger au poivre", chopped beef liberally covered with cracked pepper and pan-fried over fairly high heat.
Recipe for Shepherd Potatoes.
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Stuffed PoblanosOf all the various chiles, poblanos are my favorite for being flavorful with enough bite to be interesting without overwhelming with heat. I was thinking about how to prepare them as a variant on the popular stuffed green bell peppers when I came across an old Gourmet Mag recipe (Sept. 2000). The recipe filling is chopped cooked chicken, while I decided on ground dark-meat turkey, added some seasoning, and modified a few steps.
The stuffed poblanos, accompanied by packaged Spanish Rice Pilaf and a salad, make a delicious meal.
Recipe for Stuffed Poblanos.
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Leeks with Ginger and Shrimp (or Scallops)Published in the NYTimes Food Section some time ago, this has become another favorite. It was a recipe in the regular column "The Minimalist" by Mark Bittman. The recipe works as well with scallops as shrimp.
Recipe for Leeks with Ginger and Shrimp (or Scallops).
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Curried CauliflowerAlso published in the NYTimes Food Section some time ago, this has become yet another favorite. It was a recipe in the regular column "The Minimalist" by Mark Bittman. With cauliflower, potatoes and eggplant, it's a very tasty non-meat dish. Cumin seeds add flavor and some crunch.
Recipe for Curried Cauliflower.
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Mustard-breaded Chicken CutletsA relatively quick and very good meal, it's basically chicken (or turkey) cutlets slathered with mustard, coated with herb-based breading, and then sautéed. It's adapted from a Sunday New York Times Magazine recipe.
Recipe for Mustard-breaded Chicken Cutlets.
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Mushroom Sausage StewA very flavorful stew with a delicious broth from all the portobello mushrooms in it. All the slicing and dicing of ingredients is well worth the time and effort.
Recipe for Mushroom Sausage Stew.
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Hearty Vegetable SoupThis soup recipe is entirely my own, with enough substance to approach a stew in consistency. As such, it's meant to be a meal in itself.
It also appeals to my sense of food as precious, almost sacred, by using parts that are usually discarded, namely, turkey or goose bones (carcass) from another meal, or collected giblets from whole chickens. This provides a very flavorful stock, which becomes the base for the soup.
The choice of vegetables is of course up to the cook, but my recipe always includes parsnips and Brussel Sprouts: I find that the first adds some sweetness and the other just a touch of slight bitterness which gives the soup its character.
Recipe for Hearty Vegetable Soup.
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Potato pancakes / Latkes / KartoffelpufferWhatever the name, they are delicious, and often become the main part of the meal rather than an accompaniment. And they will go fast, so 3 pounds of potatoes for 4 people is not too much. Besides, if there are really any left over, they're great reheated for the next breakfast or lunch.
Being fried in oil, latkes are a Chanukah tradition. Be prepared for the inevitable argument as to whether they should be eaten with apple sauce or sour cream. My own preference is chunky apple sauce, and Mott's at that - it's sweeter than many but that seems to go well with the latkes.
I got to know potato pancakes as Kartoffelpuffer, which is probably more of a term from Berlin than Germany. There are many recipes, all varying somewhat. The one quoted here uses matzo meal rather than flour to bind the potato mixture.
Recipe for Potato pancakes, Latkes, Kartoffelpuffer.
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Fruit Tart This recipe for fruit tarts came from a local community paper by a Christopher Kimball, who calls himself the Kitchen Detective. I look forward to his column because he uses a quasi-scientific approach to try variants of a recipe to find an optimum version.
The original recipe was for a plum tart (with Italian/purple/prune plums), but I've adapted and used it for a number of other fruit tarts, such as apple, blueberry and rhubarb, and even some non-fruit fillings. I found that a somewhat greater proportion of butter to shortening than in the original recipe made for a tastier crust.
The tart requires a tart pan, the kind with a flat detachable bottom.
Update (March 5, 2006): Added a new recipe for a red-plum tart, one that's my own creation, and quite a good one.
Recipe for Fruit Tart.
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Fruit Tart - Purple Plum
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Fruit Tart - Red Plum
Pinwheel Cookies It's been my tradition to have lots of cookies around the house at Christmastime. These in particular are a bit of a production, but well worth it. The combination of chocolate and regular cookie, together with finely chopped nuts and some orange flavor, is delicious, and the spiral pattern looks appealing too.
Recipe for Pinwheel Cookies.![]()
Pinwheel Cookies
Hazelnut (or Almond) CrescentsThis is another Christmas cookie favorite. The original recipe is for almond crescents, which are also very good, but I have a great liking for hazelnuts, so that's what this recipe uses. .
Recipe for Hazelnut Crescents.
Hazelnut BallsAnd a recipe for yet another Christmas cookie favorite, Hazelnut Balls.
Marmalade Drop CookiesThese Marmalade Drop Cookies are very easy to make. I prefer Dundee Orange Marmalade for its flavor and thick consistency; it's also less sweet than others.
Spitzbuben (Sandwich Cookies)The name means "rascals" in German, probably for the charmingly seductive combination of butter, vanilla and preserves. The original recipe did not use an egg, but I found the dough impossible to work with. A little more research showed that there seem to be two kinds of recipes, ones with flour and an egg, others with ground nut meal and no egg.
As filling, I prefer seeded raspberry preserves rather than raspberry jam, as well as apricot (but avoiding the lumps). As instructions often say, "some assembly required", but well worth the effort.
The recipe for Spitzbuben.
Filled Yeast DoughnutsI gratefully inherited a tradition of eating preserve-filled yeast doughnuts (Berliner Pfannkuchen) on New Year's Eve ("Silvester", in German). They're a full-morning production on the day of New Year's Eve, so as to be at their best that evening. My typical fillings are raspberry preserves (with seeds) and apricot.
An excellent dough recipe for this traditional German treat, the one that I use, comes from McCall's Cook Book. I learned the assembly technique from my mother and have adapted and perfected it.
We've found out, over time, that these doughnuts freeze well, and keep much better that way. A short time in the microwave will defrost and warm them nicely.
The recipe for Filled Yeast Doughnuts.
Breakfeast CrepesCalled "dessert crepes" in the book where the recipe originates, these are a treat for breakfast. They should be served immediately, and taste great with some preserves spread on them; blueberry preserves are especially good, as well as apricot and raspberry. I prefer them rolled up like palacinka.
The recipe for Breakfast Crepes.
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Stewed Red Plums (or Rhubarb)My favorite fruit to put on breakfast cereal is stewed plums. And it has to be red plums rather than, say, black, because they have much more flavor and the sourness that balances beautifully with the right amount of sugar.
First, choose plums that not the ripest of the lot, i.e., a brighter red. Then cut them into bite-size pieces and put the pieces into a pot. Sprinkle some sugar over the pieces and let them sit for an hour or so - the sugar will draw juice out of the plums which will become the cooking liquid. The objective is to use the natural plum juice rather than water for the stewing, although it might be necessary to add some water. Cover the pot, bring it just to a boil, and then simmer. Stir and check the fruit for doneness from time to time, adding enough sugar for the right balance of sweetness and tartness.
These stewed plums are also great on vanilla ice cream.
Rhubarb has a shorter season, but is a great favorite for those of us who like the heightened tartness (balanced by more sugar). Be sure to pick the reddest stalks you can find, and watch carefully during cooking because the pieces can quickly turn to mush (which is still delicious). On the other hand, the pieces from the bottom of the stalk are harder and need to cook longer, so a mixture of mush and chunks will be right.
Mashed PotatoesSimple but good, this needs nothing more than potatoes, butter, milk and salt. Peel the potatoes, cut them into pieces, and boil for about 20 minutes or until soft. Pour off the water, then toss over high flame to evaporate residual water and to fluff them. Add chunks of butter (about 1 tbsp per potato) and some salt; then mash with old-fashioned manual masher until there are no lumps. Only after that step add warmed milk (2% fat or more) and mix with the masher to the desired consistency. Add salt to taste - I believe that the mashed potatoes are best when slight over-salted.
Scrambled EggsAnother dish that's simple and good. To begin, chop some scallions or onion. Sautee in goose fat, if available, or in butter, until soft. Crack the eggs into the pan so that white and yolk are distinct. Stir to mix together the scallions/onion, egg white and yolk. Season with salt and fresh-gound pepper. Stir and fold until done.
Note that there is no pre-mixing of the eggs, and no added milk. The scrambled eggs will have a marbled appearance of white and yellow. Goose fat is excellent for bringing out the sweetness of the scallions or onion; I keep rendered goose fat from the Christmas goose.
Heirloom TomatoesThe end of summer and beginning of fall is tomato season - fresh, ripe, juicy, flavorful tomatoes from local farm stands. The rest of the year may offer hard, flavorless, pinkish, ethylene-"ripened" baseballs at the supermarket, but the seasonal tomatoes are worth the wait. Then over the last few years there has been almost an explosion in heirloom tomatoes - strange shapes and colors compared to the standard, but with varied and even richer flavors.
My own favorites are Brandywine and Purple Cherokee. The latter is a dark greenish red tending toward dark green at the top; the flesh is also tinged with dark green. It has a wonderful deep flavor with lovely acidity. The yellow tomatoes generally tend to be much lower in acidity, so I don't care for them as much.
With tomatoes as flavorful as these, simplicity is best. A toasted whole wheat muffin, a little butter, a generous slice of tomato and a sprinkling of salt is perfection.
Matzoh with Melted Cheese and SalsaThis is not really a recipe, just a delicious preparation that's a great way to use up left-over matzoh: Cover half a matzoh with thin slices of extra-sharp cheddar cheese. Microwave until the cheese melts (20 seconds at High on our unit). Slather on your favorite salsa - mine is Chile Morita Fire Roasted Salsa by Whole Foods (Bread and Circus store brand).
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