Wine Diary - April 2005


2001 Bourgogne, Domaine Roulot, France
Mild bouquet, very good acidity, medium-bodied, light touch with wood, fairly long taste. Varietal character light, not a Meursault (producer's location), but a moderately flavorful, well-balanced wine. Golden color. Close-out price $15, regular price $20.
Rating: Good ++
2001 Hattenheimer Nußbrunnen Riesling Kabinett, Langwerth von Simmern, Rheingau
Opened at the same time as a 2001 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn, which I considered to be "Very Good +", this one was smaller-scale, with less intensity, depth, and length. It was also a touch less sweet, but had the good balancing acidity, the riesling bouquet, and some spiciness which promised more complexity with time. Close-out price $10, regular price $15.
Rating: Good ++
2001 Rully 1er Cru Grésigny, J. M. Boillot, France
Sort of a cross between white burgundy and California chardonnay: it has the flavor characteristics of a good burgundy, but also has some of the softness (a touch of residual sugar?), oiliness and lower acidity of California. Oak is subdued; color is fairly deep gold. Closer to full-bodied, with good intensity and a fairly long taste. Close-out price $13, regular price $20.
Rating: Good ++
2001 Riesling Tradition, Kuentz-Bas, Alsace, France
Unusual for an Alsatian riesling, it's not totally dry, but more in a halb-trocken style. As such, it has a nice riesling bouquet and flavor, as well as very good acidity. Moderate intensity and length, and a pleasure by itself or with food (stir-fry in this case). Close-out price $11, regular price $16.
Rating: Good ++
2001 Pinot Bianco, St. Michael-Eppan, Alto Adige
Some mellowness from reduced acidity and probably a touch of residual sugar, but not off-putting. Moderate pinot bianco character, intensity and length. Pleasant drinkink. Close-out price $9, regular price $13.
Rating: Good +
2002 Sancerre, Domaine Cherrier et Fils, France
A fine example of its type, still very refreshing acidity and a good long taste. Very well balanced, without the grassiness of NZ SBs, it's dry yet not uninvitingly austere. A good buy at a regular price $15, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good
2001 Shooting Star Barbera, Lake County
Tastes more like zinfandel that barbera, with lots of flavor and without the acidity one expects from barbera. It certainly can't be confused with the Italian high-acidity, often lean version. Altogether it would be hard to pack more fruit into an inexpensive wine. It's not complex, but weighty and delicious to drink. Shooting Star is Jed Steele's second label. Sale price $8.
Rating: Good ++
2003 Fairview Goats do Roam Rosé, Western Cape, South Africa
A rosé that's fairly dark and also flavorful. It's dry but not excessively so, with good acidity. A good summer wine, although the 14% alcohol is a little strong. There's a bit of an off-flavor that I can't quite identify yet. Sale price $8.
Rating: Good
1998 Burgess Zinfandel, Napa Valley
I remember some wonderful Burgess zinfandels from the 1970s, so I was delighted to find that they still make a fine version. Lots of warm blackberry fruit with a touch of cinnamon and clove spices, some soft tannins and touch of wood. There's lots of depth, some complexity, and a fairly long taste. Deep dark red with orange tinge. All of this at an alcohol level of only 13.1%, but it would be even better with greater acidity. May be mis-priced at a close-out price of $10 and regular price of $15, since I saw a bottle of the 1997 at close-out and regular prices of $17 and $27, respectively.
Rating: Very Good -
2001 Riesling Réserve, René Schmidt, Alsace, France
Fermented dry, clean, but there's no particular depth or length to the wine. None of the floral character in bouquet or taste. Sorry, but I just can't warm up to this style of riesling. Adding some cassis to make a pseudo-kir let it serve as a good aperatif. Close-out price $9, regular price $12.
Rating: Fair
2000 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, Carneros
Lots of cherry fruit with more than a touch of clove, intensity with some structure, could use a touch more acidity, fairly long taste. Some nice perfumed aroma, fairly dark red with purplish tinge, wood and tannin in check. Not as complex as some, but good depth. Close-out price $19, regular price $27.
Rating: Very Good
2001 Rully Les Villeranges, Faiveley, France
A great deal for the price, and a great comparison of the French style (this wine) with the Californian (Saintsbury, just above). The Rully is leaner, with sour-cherry fruit, more acidity and more wood, but well-balanced between these. The color is lighter but brilliant carmine; there is some but less perfumed aroma. Goes well with food, perhaps better than the Saintsbury. Close-out price $12, regular price $17.
Rating: Good ++
2002 Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc, "Private Bin", Marlborough, New Zealand
Somewhat to my surprise, although this wine had been in my "cellar" for some time, I had not yet tasted it. The other surprise was that it was noticeably better than other versions: the 2000 Marlborough/Hawkes Bay, was good as well as inexpensive; the 2004 Marlborough had a distracting note of sweetness. This one, the 2002 Marlborough, had some body as well as depth and intensity, golden color, and a long finish. The herbal character was well-integrated with the fruit and acidity, albeit with some asparagus in the aroma. Regular price $13, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good
2001 Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves, France
If I can trust my taste memory, then this a smaller-scale version of the 2002 Graville-Lacoste. A good and flavorful wine, but without the same depth and intensity. Close-out price $9, regular price $13.
Rating: Good +
1998 Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa Valley
Probably the best California sangiovese I've tasted so far. Characteristic sour-cherry fruit with good acidity and a touch of oak; there's some complexity to go with the structure. Like chianti classicos, but more opulent. Moderate intensity, fairly long. Close-out price $11, regular price $15.
Rating: Very Good
2001 Amethystos, Constantin Lazaridis, Macedonia, Greece
The label says that the wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon with merlot and the indigenous Limnio. That may be - it is dry, but also flat and short, with some wood and a touch of tannin, but without flavor interest. The whiff of blackberry jam is a false promise. Price not known.
Rating: Fair
2000 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, Winemaker's Reserve, Willamette Valley, Oregon
A French-style pinot noir, with sufficient but not excessive cherry fruit balanced by oak and enough acidity; Fairly dark color, medium-bodied with good length. Mild, complex rather that perfumed bouquet. Altogether a nicely structured wine. Close-out price $15, regular price $20.
Rating: Very Good -
2002 Montagny 1er Cru, Jean-François B., France
Good acidity, lighter than medium-bodied with moderate intensity, fairly long. Moderate fruit without noticeable wood. Good but not special. Regular price $19.50.
Rating: Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2001 Dry Creek Vineyard Fumé Blanc DCV3, Limited Edition, Dry Creek Valley ($13, orig. $18)
2003 Hogue Fumé Blanc, Columbia Valley ($6, orig. $9)
2001 Riesling Réserve, René Schmidt, Alsace, France ($9, orig. $12)
2001 Bourgogne, Domaine Roulot, France ($15, orig. $20)
2001 Pinot Bianco, St. Michael-Eppan, Alto Adige, Italy ($9, orig. $13)


Reds:
2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, E. Guigal, France ($21, orig. $30)
2001 Ridge Three Valleys, Sonoma County ($14, orig. $20)
1998 Burgess Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($10, orig. $15)
2000 Wild Horse Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($13, orig. $19)
2001 Bogle Phantom
[Old vine zinfandel, petite sirah, old vine mourvedre]
($12, orig. $17)



Last updated 9/5/05

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