Wine Diary - April 2008


2002 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett, Dr. Loosen, M-S-R
Peach-pineapple fruit with very good acidity, medium intensity and some depth, with a long taste. Lovely riesling aroma as well. Sweetness is at the higher end of Kabinett but carried well. The price can only be mislabeling - Dr. Loosen has a fine reputation with a higher price point. Close-out price $7, regular price $11.
Rating: Very Good
2000 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, Joseph Roty, France
One of the better red Burgundies in some time, more than high acidity and low fruit masquerading as terroir. There is good cherry-raspberry fruit of moderate intensity and some depth, good acidity, and a fairly long taste. Well-balanced, so oak and tannin do not stand out. Very good with roast chicken. Close-out price $22, regular price $40.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Sula Vineyards Chenin Blanc, Nashik, India
Quite a good wine - some sweetness well-balanced by acidity. Moderate intensity with a fairly long, floral taste. Could be mistaken for a good riesling. Went superbly well with Indian food in the very good Cambridge restaurant Tamarind Bay. Restaurant price: $8 for a glass.
Rating: Good ++
2006 A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir, Oregon
Not too much there. A bit light in color and body, with not too long a taste. Unburdened by tannin or oak, with moderate varietal character. A previous year's version appeared to develop with time, but this one doesn't seem to have the substance to improve that much. Regular price $21, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good +
2004 Pouilly-Fumé, Les Rabichottes, Celestin Blondeau, France
Does not have quite the depth and length of flavor that I expected from this producer. There is still good acidity, moderate intensity; it may be showing a little age. Close-out price $12, regular price $18.
Rating: Good +(+)
Note added 6/08: This bottle delivered what I had expected - it had good depth and length with good balance typical of a good Loire wine. Bright acidity but not the grassiness of a NZ SB. Bottle variation, or taster variation?
Rating: Very Good
2006 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
A favorite from a previous year. Besides the good acidity it shows some body, depth and balance, with NZ grassiness well under control. Long taste with some complexity. Restaurant price $31 at Legal Sea Foods.
Rating: Very Good
2004 Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Laleure-Piot, France
There's a bit of the white burgundy character that I prefer, but not enough to justify the price. The acidity is good, oak is under control, but there's not quite the fruit intensity that it needs. Moderately long taste. Close-out price $25, regular price $33.
Rating: Good +
2005 Montes Pinot Noir, Limited Selection, Casablanca Valley, Chile
Well-balanced, with varietal floral aroma and taste, in a lighter style. A bit of depth, and moderately long taste. Accompanied grilled salmon very well. A very good buy at the price. Close-out price $9, regular price $13.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon, Vintner's Reserve,California
Not much varietal character or depth, but with good intensity and flavor. Easy-drinking, without much in the way of firmness, tannin or wood. Moderate length. Price unknown.
Rating: Good +
2005 Benton Lane Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Lighter and somewhat uncomplicated style. Moderate varietal aroma and taste. Light on tannin and wood. Medium length. Close-out price $19, regular price $27.
Rating: Good +
2002 Wither Hills Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
A New Zealand PN with lots of character: dark black-cherry and black-raspberry fruit with depth and intensity but without sweetness. Every sip delivers layers of flavor and a long taste. Some tannin and wood in perfect balance. Moderate floral aroma. Close-out price $29, regular price $40.
Rating: Very Good +
2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de Bois Dauphin, France
Fairly dark red with orange cast signifying that this has aged as far as it should go. Medium-bodied rather than heavy with just a touch of tar, some tannin and some wood. No great depth with a bit of hollowness, and the taste is none too long. Close-out price $21, regular price $30.
Rating: Good +
1997 Ksara, Château, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Would beat out many French bordeaux in a blind tasting. Firmness with some tannin remaining, and very good acidity, with good somewhat austere fruit. Deep dark red with just a touch of age. The taste has a bit of complexity with good length. A very good food wine that can tolerate sipping as well. Close-out price $13, regular price $24.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Riesling QbA, Willi Schaefer, M-S-R
Only a Qualitätswein, without a village or vineyard designation, but from a quality producer. Has good riesling aroma and taste, with the acidity to balance a moderate peach character, and moderately long taste. Sweetness is at the upper end of Kabinett. Close-out price $14, regular price $19.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, Les Chailloux, Auvigue, France
Has some of the real white burgundy character, although not quite the focus and definition of better ones. It's just a bit soft where a touch more acidity would make it stand out. Moderate intensity and length. Close-out price $22, regular price $40.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Spy River Gewürztraminer, Gisborne, New Zealand
Good musty-apple varietal character in the taste though not very aromatic, dry. Moderate acidity, medium-bodied, golden color, taste somewhat short. The wine seems a bit austere to sip; maybe it would work better with food. Close-out price $9, regular price $18.
Rating: Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2005 Saint-Véran, Domaine Michel Cheveau, France ($19, orig. $27)
2004 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Chailloux, Auvigue, France ($22, orig. $40)
2004 Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Laleure-Piot, France ($25, orig. $33)
2003 Chablis Premier Cru, Domain William Fevre, France ($29, orig. $50)
2003 Santenay "En Foulot", Domains Saint-François, France ($29, orig. $50)
1999 Chassagne-Montrachet, 1er Cru Les Champgains, Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils, France ($29, orig. $50)
2004 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($12, orig. $18)
2005 Spy River Gewürztraminer, Marlborough, New Zealand ($9, orig. $18)
2004 Riesling QbA, Willi Schaefer, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($14, orig. $19)
2002 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett, Dr. Loosen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($7, orig. $11)
2004 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling Kabinett, Theo Minges, Pfalz ($12, orig. $18)


Reds:
2003 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, Waipara Valley, New Zealand ($28, orig. $40)
2004 Lynmar Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($27, orig. $39)
2005 Benton Lane Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($19, orig. $27)
2005 King Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon ($21, orig. $30)
1998 Talbott Pinot Noir, Case Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, Monterey County ($28, orig. $40)
2005 Montes Pinot Noir, Limited Release, Casablance Valley, Chile ($9, orig. $13)
2005 Montes Malbec, Reserve, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($7, orig. $11)
2000 Marsannay Les Ouzeloy, Joseph Roty, France ($22, orig. $40)
1997 Ksara Chateau, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon ($13, orig. $24)
2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine de Bois Dauphin, France ($21, orig. $30)
2001 Chianti Classico Riserva, Monsanto, Fabrizio Bianchi, Italy ($17, orig. $25)



Last updated 6/16/08

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