Wine Diary - April 2009


2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, SVC Chaintré, Clos Reissier, France
A hint of the white burgundy character, dry, dark golden color, and probably a bit over the hill. What seemed like mild corkiness is probably just a touch of oxidation. Moderate intensity and length, with good acidity.
Close-out price $12.50; regular price $25.
Rating: Good
2007 Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River, Western Australia
The pedigree of a sibling winery to New Zealand's Cloudy Bay shows. There is balance and elegance, along with a long taste. Any grassiness is well-integrated. Good acidity.
Close-out price $8; regular price $12.
Rating: Very Good
2006 Foris Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley, Oregon
Fairly full-flavored, but not much varietal character. It would be hard to identify as pinot noir. There is mild tannin and wood, and moderate length of taste.
Close-out price $14; regular price $19.
Rating: Good +
2005 Tohu Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Delicious in a California style: good PN aroma, medium-bodied with very good berry/cherry flavors, little tannin and inobtrusive oak, good acidity. Fairly long taste. Accompanied chicken paprikas, but also a pleasure just to sip.
Regular price $26, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good
2004 Pouilly-Vinzelles, La Soufrandière, Bret Brothers, France
Not at the same level as the 2005 version. This one has good body and flavors, but is more diffuse and has less acidity. Moderate length. Maybe it has passed its peak.
Close-out price $24; regular price $32.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Kreuznacher Osterhöll Riesling Spätlese semi-dry, Anton Finkenauer, Nahe
This is the first time I've seen "semi-dry" on a German wine label (instead of "halb-trocken"), but that well describes this wine, which is indeed off-dry. There is the nice riesling aroma and character in the taste, with very good acidity, and some intensity and length of taste. Here Spätlese refers not to the sweetness, but correlates with the 11.5% alcohol level.
Close-out price $10; regular price $15.
Rating: Very Good -
2004 Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Rollin Père et Fils, France
Everything one might want in a white burgundy at a reasonable price: superb balance of chardonnay fruit, oak and acidity in a dry framework. The taste is long with some complexity that makes every sip enjoyable, from the first to the last.
Restaurant price at Craigie on Main $69.
Rating: Very, Very Good
2006 Chateau Indage Sauvignon Blanc, The Mist of Sahyadri, Narayangoan Estate Reserve, Sahyadri Valley, India
There's a touch of grassiness in this dry wine, but the flavors are light. Good acidity. The taste is none to long.
Close-out price $8; regular price $12.
Rating: Good
2006 Chateau Indage Shiraz, The Mist of Sahyadri, Narayangoan Estate Reserve, Sahyadri Valley, India
Dark berry flavors, strong but diffuse, without firmness or structure. Moderate acidity, and a bit of residual sugar, contribute to the general softness. Moderate length.
Close-out price $9; regular price $13.
Rating: Good
2005 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau
Good, but lacking a bit in intensity. The floral aroma, good acidity and some peach flavors are there, but not quite the depth that one might like. Moderately long taste.
Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Coopers Creek Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Only some PN character: reluctant aroma, some firmness with moderate acidity, good intensity without much depth, moderate length.
Close-out price $12; regular price $24.
Rating: Good +
2004 Gigondas, La Gille, Perrin & Fils, France
A well-structured wine with some firmness, a bit of tannin and good balancing acidity. There's flavorful dark-cherry fruit with good intensity and length. Medium-bodied.
Close-out price $18; regular price $25.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Saint-Peray, Les Balières, Les Vins de Vienne, Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard, France
A totally appellation to me, in the south of France. A white tending toward full-bodied with great smoothness and some depth; the balance is only marred by a lower acidity than I would like. It's somewhat chardonnay-like but a gentler, but very flavorful sort. Golden color with a fairly long taste with some nuttiness and honey.
Close-out price $16; regular price $32.
Rating: Very Good -
2006 Côtes-du-Rhône, "La Dame Rousse", Domaine de la Mordorée, France
A wine of some depth and intensity, with dark berry aroma and taste. Fairly dark color with purplish tinge, and noticeable tannin. Fairly long taste. Lots of sediment. Much more character than most Côtes-du-Rhônes, and very likely to improve with a few years of age.
Close-out price $14; regular price $18.
Rating: Good ++ to Very Good
2004 Saint Romain, sous le château, Domaine Coste-Caumartin, France
All the components of a very good white burgundy are present, in well-balanced proportion. Good acidity, a bit of leanness, to go with the chardonnay fruit and oak.
Regular price $25, less 20%.
Rating: Very Good
2005 Côtes du Rhône, E. Guigal, France
Reliable, without great depth or character. A touch of tannin and wood, with moderate intensity and length. Good house wine.
Sale price $12; regular price $15.
Rating: Good +
2006 Château Hermitage des Bruges, Bordeaux, France
Good wine for the price - bordeaux character with fair amount of wood and moderate tannin. Fairly dark color. Moderate intensity and length.
Regular price $12.
Rating: Good +
2007 Beaujolais-Villages, Louis Jadot, France
Typical Jadot Beaujolais: firmness with some strawberry fruit in aroma and taste, good acidity. Moderate intensity and length.
Sale price $9; regular price $12.
Rating: Good +
2004 Vouvray, Domaine Pichot, France
Off-dry with moderate acidity. similar to riesling. Medium-bodied with moderate length.
Regular price $15.
Rating: Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2004 Saint-Peray, Les Bialères, Les Vins de Vienne, Cuilleron-Gaillard-Villard, France ($16, orig. $32)
2005 Pouilly-Loché, Climat "La Colonge", Bret Brothers, France
[Very good, grab it before it disappears]
($29, orig. $43)
2002 Viré-Clessé, Climat "La Verchère", Bret Brothers, France
[May be a bit old, but worth a try at the price]
($12, orig. $??)
2006 Malomatta, Marco Felluga, Collio Bianco, Italy
[Totally new wine to me]
($11, orig. $17)
2006 Chateau Indage Sauvignon Blanc, The Mist of Sahyadri, Narayangoan Estate Reserve, Sahyadri Valley, India
[Second Indian winery that I've seen on the shelves]
($8, orig. $12)
2005 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
[Very good, and the price is great]
($10, orig. $??)
2005 Kreuznacher Osterhöll Riesling Spätlese semi-dry, Anton Finkenauer, Nahe
[Interesting marketing: "semi-dry" instead of "halb-trocken"]
($10, orig. $15)


Reds:
2006 Côtes-du-Rhône, "La Dame Rousse", Domaine de la Mordorée, France
[Their rosé is extremely good, so let's try this]
($14, orig. $18)
2006 Galil Mountain Pinot Noir, Galilee, Israel ($11, orig. $17)
2005 Coopers Creek Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand ($12, orig. $24)
2006 Allan Scott Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
[I already know this PN to be very good]
($16, orig. $22)
2005 Gravitas Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
[Another new name - let's try it]
($20, orig. $27)
2007 Enkidu Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
[Another new name - let's try it]
($18, orig. $??)
2006 DeLoach Pinot Noir, OFS, Russian River Valley
[OFS ("Our Finest Selection") - usually a cut above]
($20, orig. $29)
2002 Opolo Pinot Noir, Paso Robles ($16, orig. $23)
2006 Foris Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley, Oregon ($14, orig. $19)
2006 Chateau Indage Shiraz, The Mist of Sahyadri, Narayangoan Estate Reserve, Sahyadri Valley, India
[Second Indian winery that I've seen on the shelves]
($9, orig. $13)
2002 Chateau Ksara, Ksara, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
[A previous year was as good as many Bordeaux]
($15, orig. $24)



Last updated 5/8/09

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