2000 Meursault, Bouchard Aîné & Fils, France

A bit small-scale as a white burgundy, with balanced fruit, acidity and oak, but not quite at the intensity one would like. Golden color indicates it may be a little past its peak. Moderate depth and length. Close-out price $18, regular price $25.
Rating: Good +

2003 Coopers Creek Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

Great value for the price, as always from this reliable producer. Well-balanced with some grassiness, sufficient acidity, as well as some depth from age. Smooth, with more than medium body, golden color. Sale price $10.
Rating: Good ++

2000 Montinore Pinot Noir, Parson's Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Lots of cherry-plum fruit, balanced by enough acidity, mild tannins and wood to provide some structure. Fairly dark red color. Enough complexity for sipping. No French terroir here, but not a fruit bomb. More than medium-bodied, with a fairly long taste. Close-out price $24, regular price $33.
Rating: Very Good

1999 Pergolas, Old Vines Tempranillo, Valdepeñas, Spain

Lots of fruit, but without the effusive lushness and even sweetness of some Spanish garnachas. This has some structure from wood rather than tannin, and is more than medium-bodied but without heaviness. Moderately long taste. Not a sipping, but also not a gulping wine, I prefer it to the garnacha fruit bombs. Sale price $7, regular price $8.
Rating: Good ++

2004 Greenstone Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

A new winery to me, and one not in my NZ wine books. Our waiter at Elephant Walk graciously brought us a sample to taste when we expressed curiosity. A competent wine without special character: some grassiness in aroma and taste, lower acidity than most, and a touch of softness, perhaps from a trace of residual sugar. Subdued intensity, moderately long taste. Not a wine to go out of one's way for. Restaurant price $7.25/$27 (glass/bottle), at Elephant Walk.
Rating: Good

2002 Sancerre "La Chapelle des Augustins", Henri Bourgeois, France

A Sancerre of impressive depth and elegance. Not quite a acidic as most, very smooth and fine. Light golden color, long and complex taste with layers of flavor. A wine to sip and savor. Restaurant price $56, at Elephant Walk.
Rating: Very Good +

2000 Pipers Brook Vineyard Pinot Noir Reserve, Tasmania, Australia

Lots of cherry and plum fruit, some tannin, and wood that gives a tinge of bitterness. Dark color, and approaching full-bodied. Somewhat brawny rather than elegant and complex, this might not easy to identify as pinot noir. Moderately long taste. Close-out price $21, regular price $30.
Rating: Good ++

2002 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Willi Haag, M-S-R

Open at the same time as a 2002 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett, Reuscher-Haart. The Brauneberger had better acidity, a bit less sweetness, and a touch more intensity. Nice riesling character, with moderate length. Close-out price $11, regular price $16.
Rating: Good ++

2001 Paraiso Pinot Noir, Monterey County

Lots of fruit and flavor, with some cinnamon, somewhat more zinfandel-like than pinot noir. Moderately long taste, integrated wood and tannin. Regular price $20, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++

NV Willm Crémant d'Alsace, Brut, Blanc de Blancs

As a sparkling wine, it has an unusual touch of backbone to it, which gives it a trace of bitterness, but which also suits food well. According to the label, it is made entirely from pinot blanc. Two days later, afte the bubbles dissipated, it became a tasty pinot blanc wine, whereas most sparkling wines would become insipid. Moderate intensity and length. Price unknown.
Rating: Good +

2004 Lagrein Rosé, Alois Lageder, Alto Adige, Italy

A serious rosé, dry, with a touch of wood for structure. Moderate intensity and length. Close-out price $9, regular price $14.
Rating: Good +

2003 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Studert-Prüm, M-S-R

At the upper end of Kabinett sweetness and a bit low on acidity for a Mosel. Moderate intensity and length. It will probably develop some depth and complexity with age. Close-out price $9, regular price $14.
Rating: Good +

2001 Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett, Weingart, Mittelrhein

Superb Mosel-like acidity and lovely riesling character, to go with depth and some complexity, and a fairly long taste. Some but not too much sweetness, as befits a Kabinett. Golden color. A real find and an excellent value. Close-out price $12, regular price $17.
Rating: Very Good

2002 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Heribert Kerpen, M-S-R

A good wine with some elegance and nice riesling character but, based on past performance, I expected more from a Kerpen wine. Kabinett-level sweetness, but the intensity is a bit subdued. Close-out price $12, regular price $19.
Rating: Good ++

2003 Tres Ojos, Old Vines Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain

Bursting with sweet raspberry-cherry fruit, with little tannin or wood evident. Delicious to drink, but a little hard to match with food, given the trace of sweetness. Sale price $8, regular price $9.
Rating: Good +

Some comparisons: I actually prefer their 2004 Tres Ojos Rosé , given that it's more dry and that the rosé fruitiness is not as overwhelming. For the same reason, I consider the 2003 Viña Alarba, Old Vines Grenache, Bodegas y Viñedas del Jalón, Calatayud, to be a more sophisticated wine.

2004 Hogue Fumé Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington

Another year, another great buy. As reliable as always, with flavor intensity and good length, dry, with wood in balance but without the vanillin it sometimes has. Always recommended. Sale price $7, regular price $8.
Rating: Good +

2002 Sancerre, La Côte de Sury, Vieilles Vignes, Paul et Jean-Marc Pastou, France

A good example of Sancerre, good acidity, with moderate intensity and length. Has held up well. Sale price $15.
Rating: Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:

Whites:

2001	Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Kabinett, Weingart, Mittelrhein	($12, orig. $17)
2002	Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Heribert Kerpen, M-S-R	($12, orig. $19)
2003	Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Studert-Prüm, M-S-R	($9, orig. $14)
2002	Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Willi Haag, M-S-R	($11, orig. $16)
2001	Koberner Weisenberg Riesling Spätlese, von Schleinitz, M-S-R	($10, orig. $15)
2002	Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spätlese*, Helmut Hexamer, Nahe	($17, orig. $25)
2000	Meursault, Bouchard Aîné & Fils, France	($18, orig. $25)

Reds:

2000	Pinot Noir Reserve, Pipers Brook Vineyard, Tasmania, Australia	($21, orig. $30)
2004	Lagrein Rosé, Alois Lageder, Alto Adige, Italy	($9, orig. $14)