2002 Argyle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Color a bit lighter than most, ruby fading a bit at the edges. Some varietal aroma to go with sour-cherry fruitiness, good acidity, and some austerity from a touch of tannin and enough wood to give a touch of bitterness. Moderate length. This is more food than sipping wine, more in the French than Californian style. Regular price $19, probably less 20% discount.2005 Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves, France
Rating: Good +
Consistently reliable as a house white from year to year. Dry, with a touch of austerity, well-balanced with good acidity, good fruit, moderate intensity without real depth, and moderately long taste. For some reason, almost every year winds up on the store's close-out table. Close-out price $9, regular price $13.2004 Rully 1er Cru "Les Cloux", Vincent Girardin, France
Rating: Good +
In a Californian style, which may please some but is disappointing to me. Somewhat soft and fat, and tending toward full-bodied, with good fruit but relatively low acidity. Oak is subdued. The taste is moderately long. Close-out price $21, regular price $30.2001 Dão Reserva, Casa de Santar, Portugal
Rating: Good +
I'm pleased to have left a second bottle on the close-out table. It's a real gamble to play the risk of leaving good bottles behind against buying too many not-so-good ones, especially at higher prices.
A real find, especially for the price (possibly because of some label damage). Lots of sour-cherry fruit with very good acidity, some but not excessive tannin, and just the right amount of wood. There is some depth and complexity, and a long taste. Very much in the European style, superb with food, but also with the flavor interest for sipping. Close-out price $6, regular price $9 (although $20 would not be unfair).2001 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese, Weingut Karl Erbes, M-S-R
Rating: Very Good
I'm sorry to have left a third bottle on the close-out table; next day it was gone.
Spätlese sweetness, floral riesling aroma, golden color. Lovely peach flavors with touch of pineapple giving depth and complexity against refreshing acidity. Long, lingering taste. Regular price $15, several years ago.2001 Bacharacher Riesling Spätlese, Weingut Toni Jost, Hahnenhof, Mittelrhein
Rating: Very Good +
Closer to Kabinett in sweetness. Riesling aroma and taste without the quite the depth one expects of 2001. Deep golden color. Acidity could be a bit higher. A trusted and reliable producer, but note that there is no vineyard designation. Moderately long taste. Close-out price $14, regular price $23.2000 Pindar Gewürztraminer, Late Harvest, North Fork of Long Island
Rating: Good ++
Served with roast goose. On the table with a 2001 Winkeler Hasensprung Riesling Spätlese, Prinz von Hessen, Rheingau; the latter had true Spätlese sweetness and more depth and length of taste.
Deep golden-brown color gives a clue that it is past optimum. Moderate sweetness, probably having been reduced though ageing. Very mild gewurz character, sufficient acidity, pleasant without much depth or complexity (i.e., none of the apricot or honey shown by fine late harvest wines). Moderately long taste. Close-out price $15, regular price $30.2003 Los Vascos, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Colchagua, Chile
Rating: Good
Cabernet character with some firm tannin and some wood to give structure. Deep dark color, good black-currant fruitiness with a bit of cedariness and a bit of complexity. Lingering taste. Close-out price $11, regular price $16.2002 Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Marius Delarche, France
Rating: Very Good
Relatively light color, high acidity, some perfume, no noticeable tannin, little oak. Sour-cherry flavors of moderate intensity and length, without much depth. Not a sipping wine, but seems to open up in accompanying food very well. I like their 2002 Pernand-Vergelesses "Les Boutières" Reserve much better. Sale price $20, regular price $25.2006 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Rating: Good +
The 2006 NZ SBs have been uniformly good. Oyster Bay is usually a great value, and is so again. The acidity and flavor is there, in a dry, somewhat austere package that includes some Marlborough grassiness. Lingering taste. Regular price $13, less 20% discount.2002 Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Marius Delarche, France
Rating: Very Good
A highly reliable minor white burgundy that is always a good value. Dry, and with that fine fruit-acidity-oak balance, this one has just a bit less intensity than previous ones. Lingering taste. Close-out price $21, regular price $30.2004 Sticks Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, Australia
Rating: Very Good -
A bit light in color, noticeably high acidity, sour-cherry flavors with varietal aroma, moderate depth and intensity that seem to grow with time, moderate length. Close-out price $11, regular price $16.2005 Hogue Fumé Blanc, Columbia Valley, Washington
Rating: Good +
Always reliable and a great buy, but even better this year. It's fresher and a bit citrusy, with good intensity and balanced flavors, and moderate length. In previous years,it had sometimes seemed soft, with wood vanillin overtones. Regular price 2 for $14.
Rating: Good ++
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2004 Rully "Les Cloux", Vincent Girardin, France ($21, orig. $30) 2004 Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves, France ($10, orig. $14) 2005 Château Graville-Lacoste, Graves, France ($9, orig. $13) 2003 João Pires Vinho Regional Terras de Sado, Portugal ($9, orig. $14)
Reds:
2001 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon, unfined and unfiltered, Sonoma County ($14, orig. $20) 2001 Dão Reserva, Casa de Santar, Portugal ($6, orig. $9) 2002 Ruffino Chianti Classico, Riserva Ducale, Italy ($9, orig. $13)
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