Lunch at the Whitehaven Café, followed by cellar-door tasting: A fine place for lunch at the café, outside among greenery.

2004 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: one of our favorites, it was the tasting of this wine back in the U.S. that drew us to the winery and café. It's just as good here: Grassiness in taste and bouquet, vibrant acidity, intense and long. Rating: Very Good + 2003 Whitehaven SVR (Single Vineyard Reserve) Gewürztraminer, New Zealand Notes: Classic musty-apple taste without harshness, but low acidity and a bit short in taste, off-dry. Rating: Good 2003 Whitehaven Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Alsatian (trocken) style, nice acidity, moderately light intensity, light bouquet. Rating: Good + 2003 Whitehaven Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Very buttery, nice acidity and length, moderate fruit, light touch with oak. Rating: Very Good - 2003 Whitehaven Reserve Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Depth, elegance, subdued butteriness; long, complex taste with fine balance. Rating: Very Good

Dinner at the Hotel d'Urville restaurant in Blenheim: Fine dining, with several wines by the glass.

2004 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Compared to the Gravitas (just below), more aroma, smoother (less austere), lighter color with a touch of green. Superb acidity with some grassiness. Rating: Very Good 2004 Gravitas Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Very dry, with some austerity, light golden color, some grassiness. Wine made at Saint Arnaud's Vineyard. Rating: Very Good - 2003 Dashwood Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Very deep red color with a purple tinge, lots of plummy fruit, no noticeable tannin, integrated wood, somewhat low acidity. Full-bodied and fruity, not an easy match with food. Rating: Good +

Lunch at the outdoor café at Saint Clair, followed by cellar-door tasting: Another very pleasant place for lunch at the café, outside near the vines and local wildlife (like a chicken literally picking off low-hanging fruit).

2004 Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: A tamed version of SB, with a bit less acidity and grass than others, dry, moderate intensity and fairly long. Rating: Good + 2004 Saint Clair Unoaked Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: easy-drinking, soft, light on acidity Rating: Good 2003 Saint Clair Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Halb-trocken style, with some riesling bouquet, balancing acidity Rating: Good 2002 Saint Clair Pinot Noir, Doctor's Creek, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Buttery/flowery bouquet and taste, light color, somestructure from wood, good acidity Rating: Very Good 2002 Saint Clair Merlot, Rapaura Road Reserve, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Cedary, good fruit, tannic structure, will age well and smooth out Rating: Very Good

Cellar-door tasting at Huia: A must-visit winery because the 2002 Huia Sauvignon Blanc was the white wine we served at Ruth and Dan's wedding reception.

2001 Huia Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Varietal bouquet and taste, good acidity, could be a Kabinett at lower sweetness level. Rating: Good ++ 2004 Huia Gewürztraminer, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Typical varietal character of musty apples in aroma and taste, but has low acidity, relatively short taste and slight bitterness. Off-dry. Rating: Good - 2002 Huia Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Floral aroma of cherries, relatively light color, some wood and a touch ot tannin, moderate intensity and good length Rating: Very Good -

Cellar-door tasting at Nautilus:

2004 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc Gold, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Another good and characteristical Marlborough SB, with good acidity, tamed grassiness. Rating: Good + 2004 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc Renwick, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: More weight than the regular SB, but less acidity; more round, with greater length. Probably from the Renwick vineyard rather than a blend. Rating: Good + 2002 Nautilus Pinot Noir Gold, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Lots of cherry fruit with good acidity, light bouquet, some structure with wood and tannin in balance, will keep and develop Rating: Very Good - 2002 Nautilus Pinot Noir Reserve, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Better than the regular PN in every way - intensity, length, complexity Rating: Very Good ++

Dinner at Bellafico Wine Bar and Restaurant, Blenheim: Good selection of wines by the glass, and a long wine list

2004 Awatere Terrace Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: A small winery that doesn't yet show up in the NZ wine books. Typical Marlborough SB with some grassines, and good acidity. Moderate intensity and length. Rating: Good + 2004 TerraVin Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: A bit less acidity than the Awatere Terrace, but also some more balance and elegance. Rating: Good ++ 2002 Thornbury Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Deep color, lots of fruit, subdued aroma, light tannin, a touch of austerity from wood, fairly long but a bit rough, may develop with some age. Rating: Very Good -

Lunch at Allan Scott winery's Twelve Trees Restaurant, another lovely spot, followed by cellar-door tasting, with wide-ranging offerings. Recommended.

2004 Allan Scott Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: A very good accompaniment to a dish of green-lipped mussels. Consistent with previous notes (see). Rating: Good + 2004 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Another good and typical Marlborough SB, with characteristic acidity and some grassiness. Rating: Good + 2004 Allan Scott Prestige Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: A more elegant and tamed version - deeper, but not as acidic or grassy, moderate intensity, fairly long. Rating: Good + 2003 Allan Scott Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Lighter than Prestige (just below), good structure with some oak, nice bouquet, long taste. Rating: Good ++ 2003 Allan Scott Prestige Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Well-balanced with French oak, good but not excessive fruit, mild aroma, deep color. Long taste ending in wood; should gain some complexity with age. Rating: Very Good + 2002 (Allan Scott) Joshua Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Son Joshua gets to try his hand with a French-style pinot noir. Described as "barnyardy", while I taste a nice complexity from wood and some age (tinge of orange). Good acidity. Rating: Good + 2003 Allan Scott Late Harvest Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Yes, chardonnay can be a superb late-harvest wine! Like a semillon, apricot character that can only deepen, good acidity, intense, and very long. Deep golden color. Rating: Excellent

Cellar-door tasting at Cloudy Bay: Given Cloudy Bay's deserved reputation and iconic place in New Zealand's wine world, one might perhaps expect some haughtiness and arrogance. In fact, this is one of the friendliest and most welcoming wineries in the entire country. The staff was generous and charming, so that it was a delight to visit. Highly recommended.
My overall characterization of their style is that Cloudy Bay favors elegance over power.

2004 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: The latest version of the SB that brought New Zealand wines to the world's attention. This is sauvignon blanc with elegance, without sharp elbows, without the strong acidity and grassiness that typefy so many of Marlborough's SBs. Rating: Very Good - 2004 Cloudy Bay Te Koko (Sauvignon Blanc), Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: An attempt to make SB in a burgundy style. Rating: Good ++ 2002 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Well-balanced in a light white burgundy style, elegant, long. Rating: Very Good - 2001 Cloudy Bay Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Very close to dry, good acidity, balanced, mild. Rating: Good + 2002 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Light color, well-balanced, tinge of wood, light-bodied, fairly long taste, elegant. Rating: Very Good - 2002 Cloudy Bay Late Harvest Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Viscous, varietal bouquet, apricots in aroma and taste, fine acidity, long taste. . For comparison, the Allan Scott Late Harvest Chardonnay (above) was deeper and more intense. Rating: Very Good +

Dinner at Bacchus Restaurant, Blenheim: Another good place for dinner. The wine list is an oddity - heavy for being bound between two planks of wood.

2002 Framingham Dry Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Lots of refreshing acidity, nice riesling varietal character, close to totally dry, moderate intensity, long taste. Better than German trocken riesling. Rating: Very Good 2004 Staete Landt Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Classic Marlborough SB with grassiness and bracing acidity, dryness gives it a touch of austerity, long taste. Rating: Very Good - 2004 Nobilo Icon Series Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Compared to the Staete Landt (just above) - softer, maybe from a touch of residual sugar; not as clean and crisp. Rating: Good

Lunch at Morrison Street Café, Nelson: Nice place for lunch, on a side street off the main drag

2004 Blackenbrook Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Dry, strong acidity, subdued grassiness, somewhat austere, relatively light, moderately long. Rating: Good

Dinner at Amadeus restaurant, Nelson: The Viennese approach, with some typical waltzes, attracted older folks, but the music changed to folk and jazz later. Good dining - what looked like over-cooked rack of lamb was very tender and flavorful.

2001 Gifford Road Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Off-dry, like halb-trocken; holding well, a bit less intense than the Stoneleigh (just below). Moderate acidity, fairly long. Rating: Good + 2003 Stoneleigh Riesling, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: A touch sweeter than the Gifford Road (just above), less than Kabinett. It was also a bit more flowery, and a little fuller. Moderate acidity, fairly long. Tasted previously with consistent notes (see). Rating: Good + 2002 Seifried Pinot Noir, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Medium weight, very aromatic, little wood or tannin, good fruit but dry, with buttery bouquet. Moderate intensity, fairly long taste. Rating: Very Good

Dinner at The Cut restaurant, Nelson: Fine dining with good service, although there was a large and somewhat boisterous group when we were there.

2004 Brightwater Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Nicely balanced without grassiness or high acidity, a little subdued overall (compared to Te Whare Ra SB, below), fairly long. Rating: Very Good - 2004 Te Whare Ra Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Notes: Prototypical Marlborough SB with grassiness and bracing acidity, floral bouquet, good intensity, long. Rating: Very Good 2003 Daniel Schuster Twin Vineyards Pinot Noir, Waipara, New Zealand Notes: Sweet cherry fruit, not austere, moderately deep color, good intensity and length, no noticeable tannin or wood, acidity a bit low. Rating: Very Good -

Cellar-door tasting at Seifried Estate, Nelson: Significant winery just outside of Nelson; large variety of wines, nominal charge (waived)

2004 Seifried Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Grassy bouquet and taste, good acidity, moderate intensity, fairly long. Marlborough-like. Rating: Good ++ 2004 Seifried Chardonnay, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: A bit fat, only moderate acidity, buttery taste and bouquet. Rating: Good + 2003 Seifried Winemakers Collection Barrique Fermented Chardonnay, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: More acidity, lighter, and more refined than the regular chardonnay (just above). Light oak, long taste. Worth finding. Rating: Very Good - 2004 Seifried Riesling, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Slight sweetness, 12% alcohol, not very floral, moderate acidity. Rating: Good 2003 Seifried Winemakers Collection Pinot Noir, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: More fruit and oak, but not as seductive as the regular Pinot Noir (see). There's some backbone and austerity; needs age to gain some complexity. Rating: Very Good

Cellar-door tasting at Waimea Estates, Nelson: Another winery just outside of Nelson, also with a large variety of wines, nominal charge for tasting

2003 Waimea Estates Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Some herbal bouquet; lower acidity than most, by design, somewhat low-key overall. Rating: Good 2003 Waimea Estates Bolitho Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Balanced, refined, moderate intensity and length. Rating: Good + 2003 Waimea Estates Pinot Noir, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Lightish color, floral bouquet, little tannin or wood, good acidity, dry. Rating: Very Good - 2001 Waimea Estates Bolitho Reserve Pinot Noir, Nelson, New Zealand Notes: Surprisingly, not much darker or heavier than the regular PN (just above); some tannin and wood gives firmness and balance, also aromatic. Rating: Very Good