Wine Diary - January 2006


2002 Terra Barossa, Barossa Cuveé, Thorn-Clarke, Australia
Lots of blackberry fruit without the sweetness. A blend of syrah, caberrnet franc and cabernet sauvignon; the cabernet franc seems to supply most of the character. Some wood, not much tannin, with just a touch of backbone. A bit of complexity, good intensity and moderate length. A good hamburger wine and a bit more. Sale price $10.
Rating: Good +
2000 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru "Clos de la Boudriotte", Viellles vignes, Vincent Girardin, France
I expected more from "old vines" at this price. Relatively mild, very well-balanced, without much in the way of perfumed aroma. Moderate intensity and length, without much varietal character. Much better as a food than sipping wine. Close-out price $25, regular price $25.
Rating: Good +
2003 Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc, Groenekloof, South Africa
A well-balanced SB with some depth and elegance. There is smoothness without austerity, with grassiness well under control, medium intensity and a long taste. This label is worth watching. A great deal at a close-out price $13, regular price $19.
Rating: Very Good +
2005 House of Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Easy-drinking, with lots of fruit, some grassiness and very good acidity. Moderate intensity and length. Regular price $12, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Babich Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Open at the same time as the 2005 Stoneleigh (just below), the Babich has some more depth of intensity, while keeping the acidity and balance of a good Marlborough SB. Fairly long taste. A good deal at a regular price $15, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good
2005 Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
The very good 2005 NZ SBs continue: the Stoneleigh is a prototypical Marlborough SB - well balanced in a smooth style with non-intrusive grassiness and acidity, moderate depth, and good length. It tends toward elegance rather than power. Sale price $14.
Rating: Very Good -
2003 Glazebrook Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Lots of flavor and some depth, but some grassiness and a trace of residual sugar don't match up well. Golden color, fairly long taste. This style may please others more than it does me. Regular price $14, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good
2004 Coopers Creek Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand
Robust and flavorful, but without that much varietal character; i.e., not much floral or perfumed aroma. Also somewhat tannic - maybe the intent was to have it develop some complexity with age, but it hasn't done so over several days. Good intensity with moderate length. Regular price $18, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good
2004 Saintsbury Garnet Pinot Noir, Carneros
A relatively weak effort by a good producer: I know it's their second label, but expected a lighter but flavorful and aromatic wine. Here everything is subdued. They can do better. Clse-out price $14, regular price $19.
Rating: Good -
2004 Sherwood Pinot Noir, South Island, New Zealand
Compared to a 2001 De Loach Russian River Pinot Noir, this wine has a bit more structure and depth, with less aroma and seductiveness. Moderate intensity and depth, with real pinot noir character. Regular price $19, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++
2001 De Loach Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
Perfumed varietal aroma, a bit on the light side in color and body, moderate length. Light on tannin and wood. There's cinnamon and perhaps a bit of clove. A real pleasure to sip, at an incredible close-out price of $7, regular price of $10.
Rating: Good ++

the previous notes of Sept. '05 may have been a bit too glowing, but then this wine is very seductive.
2005 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Another fine 2005 SB, with moderate grassiness, good acidity, moderate intensity and length. This one is more balanced than other 2005's, but also a bit lighter. Regular price $16, less 20% discount.
Rating: Very Good -
2003 Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
The higher-level Nobilo SB, made in more of a a chardonnay style. The grassiness is well integrated into a wine with some body, balancing acidity, even a bit of oiliness, flavorful intensity, and good length. Close-out price $14, regular price $20.
Rating: Very Good
Take an Oyster by Surprise - by Eric Asimov: New York Times, Wednesday, Jan. 11, 2006
The four-person panel reviews some Muscadets and finds many good ones, while admitting that they seldom get respect. But what is the panel's selling point? Muscadet goes well wiith oysters. In fact, not only is the word "oysters" in the title, but they're mentioned four times in the text as well. In case anyone missed the connection, the accompanying recipe is for, yes, that's right: "Oyster Pot Pie"! No other food is mentioned at all.

Now if the Times panel would like folks to respect Muscadet and to drink more of it, then they should have mentioned some other food matches. Sales are going to be mighty slim if oysters is all that Muscadet is fit for, even no sales at all in my particular case.

At least I've found that Muscadet's acidity makes it a good wine base for kir, the cassis-laced drink that's traditionally made with Aligoté. Unfortunately Aligoté is now often made as a serious varietal, whether justified or not, with a price tag of $15 or more.
2000 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Vide Bourse", Vincent Girardin, France
Somewhat weak and low in acidity, with faint echoes of what a white burgundy should be. Moderate intensity. Surprisingly, a 2004 Oyster Bay Chardonnay from New Zealand, open at the same time, has more intensity and depth. Disappointing for a Girardin white burgundy at this price. Close-out price $25, regular price $35.
Rating: Good
2004 Oyster Bay Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand
Chardonnay varietal character with moderate intensity, somewhat low acidity but also not over-oaked. Moderate length. Not overblown Californian, nor burgundian, but a good deal at the price. Close-out price $8, regular price $12.
Rating: Good +
2000 Tim Adams Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley, Australia
Lots of cabernet cherry fruit with good acidity and backbone from some tannin and a touch of cedariness. Flavorful intensity with moderate length but not much complexity. Deep dark color. Price unknown.
Rating: Good ++
2002 Hangtime Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco, California
Nicely perfumed pinot noir, altogether a bit on the lighter side, easy on the wood and tannin and with good acidity. Cherry/raspberry fruit with moderate intensity and length. Not much complexity but a pleasure to drink. A good deal for the price. Regular price $16, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++
2000 J Vintage Brut
Fairly full-favored and very well-balanced, with good acidity and a long, elegant taste. The bubbles seemed relatively short-lasting though. I actually preferred this to a NV Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut (notes are from three years ago), which was a bit more austere, with less flavor, which is usually $35 on sale. Sale price $27, regular price $30.
Rating: Very Good

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2000 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Vide Bourse", Vincent Girardin, France ($25, orig. $35)
2002 Rully 1er Cru "Le Meix Cadot", Vincent Durueil-Janthial, Vielles vignes, vin non filtré, France ($25, orig. $35)
2004 Oyster Bay Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand ($8, orig. $12)
2003 Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($14, orig. $20)
2003 Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc, Groenekloof, South Africa ($13, orig. $19)
2002 Plozner Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy ($11, orig. $16)


Reds:
2000 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte, Vieilles Vignes, Vincent Girardin, France ($25, orig. $35)
2001 De Loach Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($7, orig. $10)
2004 Saintsbury Garnet Pinot Noir, Carneros ($14, orig. $19)
2003 Montinore Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($10, orig. $15)
2000 Gloria Ferrer Syrah, Carneros ($14, orig. $20)



Last updated 12/13/06

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