Wine Diary - January 2009


2001 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Darting, Pfalz
True Kabinett-level sweetness, moderate intensity with good riesling character; moderately long taste. Closer to a Mosel than what I think of Pfalz. A good wine from a high-value producer.
Regular price $11.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Sancerre, La Porte du Caillou, Domaine des Trois Noyers, France
Absolutely prototypical Sancerre, even at four years of age: bright acidity to go with pre-ripe honeydew flavors, medium-bodied with a long taste.
Close-out price $12; regular price $19.
Rating: Very Good
2007 Dr. L Riesling, Loosen Bros, M-S-R
Very clean, with a lovely perfumed aroma, good acidity, and mild peach flavor. Relatively light-bodied, with a moderately long taste. Sweetness conforms to Kabinett-level. If we're not looking for depth, then this is a very enjoyable wine.
Close-out price $8; regular price $12.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Hazyblur Shiraz, Baroota, Australia
The name presumably references the world one sees after drinking a substantial amount of this wine. Very dark with perhaps still a slight purplish edge, lots of extracted blackberry fruit, spice and vanillin in aroma and taste, lots of intensity and depth. There is some tannin and backbone along with 15% alcohol. Not quite a monster (which is a good thing) but it needs highly flavored food as a match.
Close-out price $19; regular price $40.
Rating: Very Good -
2007 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
A bit disappointing only because I expected more of a Huia SB. This one seems constructed on a smaller scale - all the components are there, but the acidity isn't as vibrant, and the intensity and depth seem dialed back a notch. There is some typical grassines, maybe a trace of residual sugar, and the taste is moderately long.
Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Good +
2003 Casa Lapostolle Syrah, Requinoa Vineyard, Cuvée Alexandre, Rapel Valley , Chile
Deep dark color, substantial sediment, lots of blackberry fruit. What's missing is some acidity: there's a good deal of flavor that just needs a little jolt to give it more depth and length. There's some tannin and some oak.
Close-out price $15; regular price $22.
Rating: Good ++
2001 Finca Antigua Reserva, Familia Martinez Bujanda, La Mancha, Spain
Wonderful aroma of dark red berries, realized again in the complexity that the time offers, based on good acidity, a bit of tannin and inubtrusive oak. Fairly long taste. There's some backbone to the wine, so it's very welcoming to food.
Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Very Good
2007 Morandé Pinot Noir, Terrarum - Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile
Varietal character in aroma and taste, but without much depth or length. Still, good for the price.
Close-out price $10; regular price $15.
Rating: Good +
2004 Gewurztraminer Tradition, Sipp-Mack, Alsace, France
Intense varietal character, golden color, off-dry with somewhat low acidity gives it softness. Fairly long taste.
Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Clos LaChance Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains
In a California rather than French style, but very enjoyable. Deep golden color, very well balanced with varietal fruit, enough acidity and inobtrusive wood. More than medium-bodied with some depth and complexity, and a long taste. Complemented broiled arctic char.
Close-out price $13; regular price $23.
Rating: Very Good
2004 Pinot Bianco, St. Michael-Eppan, Südtirol-Alto Adige
A well-aged pinot bianco that has acquired more body and some depth with age. Golden color, good varietal character and a fairly long taste. Probably fresher with a bit more acidity when young. This is one of those reliable producers in Alto Adige.
Close-out price $9; regular price $16.
Rating: Good ++
2006 Paraiso Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands
Surprisingly good, with very nice perfumed aroma and varietal PN taste. A bit lighter than medium-bodied, and a touch light in color, it is dry with some firmness but little noticeable tannin or wood, and with good acidity. The taste is quite long and enjoyable. The low close-out price came from a dual-label application error.
Close-out price $11; regular price $23.
Rating: Very Good
2005 Château Roland la Garde, Premières Côtes de Blaye, France
A good wine from a minor region in Bordeaux. There's plenty of merlot-like flavor, but it could use more acidity as it comes across a bit flabby. The taste is moderately long.
Close-out price $7; regular price $11.
Rating: Good +
2005 Salmos, Torres, Priorat, Spain
Another reason why Spanish wines, especially reds, are such a good buy. This wine is flavorful, medium-bodied, dry, with very good acidity and some firmness from moderate tannin and just enough wood. It could use a bit more complexity, but the taste is fairly long. It is not a fruit bomb, and so is well-suited as a dinner accompaniment.
Close-out price $12; regular price $18.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Teliani Valley Teli, Kakheti, Georgia
Somewhat over the hill, with a deep golden color and a bit maderization in the taste. Reminds somewhat of a mild pinot blanc - medium-bodied but without much intensity or depth; moderate length.
Close-out price $10; regular price $14.
Rating: Good
2004 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
New name to me, but quite a good wine. Very well balanced, with acidity and grassiness evident but not dominant. Medium-bodied, with some depth and good intensity, and a fairly long taste.
Close-out price $14; regular price $18.
Rating: Very Good
2002 Acacia Pinot Noir, Napa Valley - Carneros
Reliable producer with a lovely California-style PN: nice aroma, medium body with a bit of firmness, balancing acidity without noticeable oak or tannin, fairly long taste.
Discount price $20.
Rating: Very Good -
2006 Galil Mountain Pinot Noir, Galilee, Israel
Surprisingly good: varietal aroma and taste in a full-flavored, high-alcohol (15%) package; some, but not excessive tannin, and good acidity. Fairly long taste.
Close-out price $13; regular price $22.
Rating: Very Good -
2004 Pinot Bianco, Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige, Italy
Good varietal character with some intensity and depth; fairly long taste. Golden color, good acidity; has held up well with age. Always a reliable producer.
Close-out price $12; regular price $24.
Rating: Good ++
2006 El Ganador Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina
Typical dark color, good blueberry fruit with moderate depth, good acidity and mild tannin, moderate length. Not massively extracted like so many malbecs, so it's a good food wine.
Sale price $10.
Rating: Good +
2000 Château Mondot, Grand Cru Saint-Émilion, France
Deep dark color, mild aroma, lots of dark fruit with noticeable tannin, as well as a bit of softness from only moderate acidity. Oak is well in balance. Good flavors without any particular complexity.
Price unknown; probably about $35.
Rating: Good ++
2004 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir, Carneros
On the lighter, aromatic side, with good acidity and varietal character, cherry flavors, and a touch of firmness. Moderate intensity and length.
Close-out price $10; regular price $15.
Rating: Good +
2001 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese, Erben Stephan Ehlen, M-S-R
There is Spätlese sweetness, some nice riesling aroma and flavors, and good acidity, but the intensity is none too great and the taste is fairly short.
Close-out price $12; regular price $22.
Rating: Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine du Père Caboche, Jean Pierre Boisson, France ($21, orig. $30)
2004 Mount Nelson Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($14, orig. $18)
2008 Babich Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($10, orig. $15)
2007 Huia Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($12, orig. $18)
2007 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($16, orig. $23)
2008 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20, orig. $30)
2004 Teliani Valley Teli, Kakheti, Georgia ($10, orig. $14)
2004 Clos LaChance Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains ($13, orig. $23)
2007 Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe ($16, orig. $23)
2007 Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spätlese, Kruger-Rumpf, Nahe ($18, orig. $30)
2007 Dr. L Riesling, Loosen Bros., M-S-R ($8, orig. $12)
2004 Gewurztraminer Tradition, Sipp-Mack, Alsace, France ($12, orig. $18)


Reds:
2006 Galil Mountain Pinot Noir, Galilee, Israel ($13, orig. $22)
2005 Clos LaChance Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains ($17, orig. $25)
2007 King Estate Pinot Noir, Oregon ($21, orig. $30)
2007 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, Estate Reserve, Willamette Valley ($19, orig. $29)
2006 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir, Yamhill Cuvée, Willamette Valley ($26, orig. $37)
2007 Morandé Pinot Noir, Terrarum - Reserva, Casablanca Valley, Chile ($10, orig. $15)
2005 Chateau Roland La Garde, Premières Côtes de Blaye, France ($7, orig. $11)
2001 Finca Antugua Reserva, Familia Martinez Bujanda, La Mancha, Spain ($21, orig. $18)
2005 Malbec Reserva, Luigi Bosca, Mendoza, Argentina ($10, orig. $15)
2006 Malbec Reserva, Altos los Hormigas, Mendoza, Argentina ($15, orig. $23)
2006 Tavel "La Dame Rousse", Domaine de la Mordorée, France ($15, orig. $30)



Last updated 2/3/09

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