1999 Seghesio Pinot Noir Keyhole Ranch, Russian River Valley

Lovely pinot noir aroma, lots of sweet cherry fruit, fairly dark color, some depth and a bit of complexity, and a fairly long taste. Light touch with tannin and oak, and smooth, so that there's no trace of the austerity of a French burgundy, but there seems to be a bit of residual sugar that's just a little disconcerting. Close-out price $20, regular price $28.
Rating: Very Good -

1998 Montevina Sangiovese, Sierra Foothills, Amador County

This wine looked very promising: a winery that always offers great value for the price, as well as Amador County, known for big, flavorful wines. Alas, there's nothing special here: some of the sour-cherry fruit of a chianti, but not quite the acidity or wood to give a touch of astringency. Moderate intensity, soft tannins, and flavor that becomes hollow and drops off quickly. Montevina has done better than this. Close-out price $8, regular price $12.
Rating: Good

2001 Riesling Sprinzenberg, Geyerhof, Kremstal, Austria

Possibly the best Austrian, and dry, riesling that I've come across. Bracing acidity, maybe just a bit too much, as one might perhaps expect from unripe fruit. Yet this wine has very good riesling fruit intensity, as one would expect from 2001, a long taste, and nice bouquet. The color is golden. A wine to sip and savor. Close-out price $13, regular price $19.
Rating: Very Good +

2001 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Clos des Guettes, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, France

A real find of a white burgundy. Vanillin oak and refreshing acidity complement elegant chardonnay fruit. Moderate intensity with long taste. A very nice cross of Chablis flint and the more southern smoothness. Close-out price $21, regular price $30.
Rating: Very Good +

2000 Elk Cove Windhill Pinot Noir, Oregon

Firm, with a touch of austerity from a bit of tannin. Not as aromatic as Californians. Good cherry fruit intensity, with fairly long taste. Altogether quite good, but the PN character is subdued, and it could have more complexity. "Unfined and unfiltered", so it could take more time to come together. Close-out price $18, regular price $28.
Rating: Good ++

2001 Byron Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley

Very aromatic in bouquet and taste, smooth and softer than the Talley (just below). There's a trace of sweetness that matches food better than plain sipping; this seems to be a Byron characteristic. Fairly long taste. Close-out price $18, regular price $28.
Rating: Very Good -

2000 Talley Vineyards Pinot Noir, Arroyo Grande Valley

Lots of black cherry fruit, some firmness but no sharp edges, tannin and wood well in check, good acidity. Medium intensity and fairly long taste. PN aroma without lots of perfume. Purplish tinge says that it will last a good deal longer. Close-out price $22, regular price $32.
Rating: Very Good

2003 Viña Alarba, Old Vines Grenache, Bodegas y Viñedas del Jalón, Calatayud, Spain

The cherry/raspberry fruit is wrapped in a bit of firmness, so that it avoids the pitfalls of a fruit-bomb with a trace of sweetness. Moderately dark color, with the typical purplish tinge. Some depth with medium intensity and a fairly long taste. A great buy at the price. Sale price $8.
Rating: Good ++

2002 Montagny 1er Cru, J. M. Boillot, France

Very ripe, honeyed and flavorful, but with good acidity too. Richer than medium intensity, with fairly long taste. Golden color. Price not known - probably about $25.
Rating: Very Good

Acquisition at close-out in Feb. '06 fixes the regular price at $25, a very good deal, to say nothing of the $15 close-out price. The wine appears somewhat less lush and a bit leaner then, which makes it even a little more appealing.

2004 Tres Ojos Rosé, Calatayud, Spain

One of the best rosés I've tasted: dry, with lots of raspberry fruitiness in aroma and taste, more intensity than one would expect, and good length. The color is darker than most as well, tending toward a light red. The wine is a blend of 50% garnacha and 50% tempranillo. Highly recommended. Sale price $8.
Rating: Very Good

Note added 7/23/09: This wine recently became available again on close-out at $5. A rosé that's almost five years old is chancy, but this one has held up well. The color is a bit more coppery, and some of the freshness is gone, but it's still a dry, flavorful wine.

2000 Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling, Hirsch, Kamptal, Austria

Fairly dry, with some riesling character, and with a little fatness. On first taste, it seemed as if it could have a more intense and longer taste; it appeared much more substantial a few days later Close-out price $14, original price $22.
Rating: Good ++

2004 Babich Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

Babich SB has always been a good buy for the price, although that's been starting to edge up. This one has a touch of grassiness and good acidity, as well as a bit of softness that lessens its appeal. Moderate intensity and length. There are better 2004's that cost just a little more (e. g., Huia, Drylands, Tohu, Stoneleigh). Regular price $14, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good +

2001 Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett, Bert Simon, M-S-R

Nicely floral riesling aroma, intensity a touch light, some spiciness in the taste, good acidity, taste none too long. Sweetness is on the drier side of Kabinett. A relatively straight-forward riesling, clean and easy-drinking, without the complexity to make one savor individual sips. I don't recall the price.
Rating: Good

2000 Wild Horse Pinot Noir, Central Coast

Somewhat on the lighter side, in color and body, with lovely aroma, sufficient acidity, sweet cherry fruit, lingering taste, and not burdened with tannin or wood. Has developed some complexity with age. Close-out price $13, original price $18.
Rating: Very Good -

1999 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru "Les Serpentières", Simon Bize & Fils, France

A bit too much acidity to go with the sour-cherry fruit, well-balanced tannin and wood to provide some structure. Medium-bodied with lingering taste, and some complexity from age. Close-out price $25, original price $40.
Rating: Good ++

Red-tag close-out sales this month:

Whites:

2000	Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling, Hirsch, Kamptal, Austria	($14, orig. $22)
2001	Sprinzenberg Riesling, Geyerhof, Kremstal, Austria	($13, orig. $19)
2001	Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru, Clos des Guettes, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, France	($21, orig. $30)

Reds:

1999	Seghesio Keyhole Ranch Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley	($20, orig. $28)
2000	Cristom Pinot Noir, Louise Vineyard, Willamette Valley	($30, orig. $42)
2000	Elk Cove Vineyards Windhill Pinot Noir, Oregon	($16, orig. $23)
1998	Montevina Sangiovese, Sierra Foothills, Amador County	($8, orig. $12)
1999, 2000	Rosemount Hill of Gold Shiraz, Mudgee, Australia	($12, orig. $18)