2000 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, Waipara, New Zealand

Probably the best NZ Pinot Noir I've come across so far: Warm summer fruit with Burgundian acidity, maybe even a touch too much. Whatever wood and tannin there might been has softened with age into the fruit to give depth and complexity, as well as a lingering taste. The orange-rim color testifies to a wine at its peak. Not a fruit-bomb nor a pretender of fruit-deficient terroir, this one delights as both a sipping and a food wine. Close-out price $30, regular price $45.
Rating: Very, Very Good

2001 Côtes du Rhone, E. Guigal, France

Dry, with good acidity and some intensity, moderately long taste. Well-balanced, with a mild aroma, a very good choice as a house white. Deep golden color, indicating that it has aged well, but shouldn't age much longer. The taste profile was very similar to a 2003 Pinot Grigio, Plozner, Friuli, open at the same time, with the Pinot Grigio a little more harsh, even though the two wines consist of different grape types. Close-out price $8, regular price $12.
Rating: Good ++

New York Times - Wed., July 19:

The wine article in this week's section spoke of increasing sweetness In California red wines, especially Pinot Noir. It was fascinating to me because I had started noticing obtrusive sweetness in some California Pinot Noirs, and had started wondering about my own tasting palate. Had I ignored this effect before? Was I recalibrating my own tasting criteria? So in some sense it was good to read an expert's confirmation of what I thought I had noticed; on the other hand, I'm sorry to find out that this trend exists.

At least Pinot Noir, like Zinfandel, can carry a bit of residual sugar in the fruit-forward Californian style, more so than Cabernet Sauvignon, though not an excess. But some wine like Sauvignon Blanc cannot - there the residual sugar clashes with the natural grassiness of SB. Unfortunately, I've found a few New Zealand SBs with softness due to a bit of sugar as well as reduced acidity. I worry about this style as a trend to capture a larger market.

2001 Montevina Barbera, Terra d'Oro, Amador County

Lots of buttery aroma on first opening, then intense fruitiness, but also the noticeable acidity that is a characteristic of Italian Barbera. Besides the sour-cherry character, one can probably find a blackberry component like there is in most zinfandels. Wood and tannin are well-integrated. There is lots of flavor depth and a long taste, and although the wine may not be elegant, neither is it rustic. This one is a real winner. Close-out price $10, regular price $15.
Rating: Very Good

2001 Marsannay "Les Echezeaux", Domaine Saint-Martin, France

Characteristics very much like the 2002 Mercurey, Faiveley (just below). This contradicts the note of March '05 for the same wine. Regular price $18.
Rating: Good

2002 Mercurey, Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet, Faiveley, France

Fairly good sour-cherry fruit, high acidity, little tannin. Intensity somewhat low, no PN perfume, and a short taste. Very much a food rather than a tasting wine. Price not known.
Rating: Good

2005 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Stellenbosch, South Africa

This winery has the narrow vertical labels, and makes a very fine Sauvignon Blanc. The rosé has very little varietal character and not too much flavor. There is good acidity and it's dry, but with a short taste. Sale price $11.
Rating: Good

2002 Monthelie (blanc), Domaine René Monnier, France

The first white I've seen from this region. The wine is balanced and elegant rather than powerful. There is good acidity and the wood is subdued, but it doesn't have quite the character of a fine white burgundy. Close-out price $25, regular price $37.
Rating: Good ++

2005 Tohu Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

By the standards of the other 2005 NZ SBs, and of the previous fine wines from Tohu, relatively disappointing. There's a lot of flavor and intensity, but also some softness due to some residual sugar and less than vibrant acidity. Some Marlborough grassiness to let one know where it came from. Moderately long taste. Regular price $17, less 20% discount.
Rating: Good +

2003 Rosé, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles

According to the label, the blend is Mourv�dre 64%, Grenache 28%, and Counoise 8%. There's some substance to this one, with a hefty 14.8% alcohol too. It's held well, and does not taste old; there's raspberry with a touch of sweetness and a bit of firmness. The color is moderately deep for a rosé. Close-out price $10, regular price $20.
Rating: Good ++

It does not quite measure up to the very good 2004 Tres Ojos Rosé, Calatayud, Spain, my standard for a rosé, with its lesser intensity and touch of sweetness, but is a good deal at the close-out price.

2001 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett, Schloss Schönborn, Rheingau

Classic Rheingau, with depth and a bit of spice in ripe peach, as well as good acidity. Floral riesling aroma, fairly long taste. The wine developed in the glass, so it can take a few more years of age. Close-out price $10, regular price $14.
Rating: Very Good

Note added 11/11/07: A bottle opened yesterday had a good deal of small-bubble effervescence, more than a little champagne-like. The deep golden color with a tinge of brown indicated some oxidation. The wine was still quite enjoyable, but with less sweetness than I recall. It may have been undergoing secondary fermentation. I'll have to see what the last bottle is like.

2001 Lafond Pinot Noir SRH, Santa Rita Hills

Nice PN aroma and flavor, raspberry/cherry fruit, fairly dark color. Good intensity and moderate length, but altogether a bit hollow - i.e., could use a bit more acidity. Regular price $20 (when bought a few year ago), less 20% discount.
Rating: Good ++

Red-tag close-out sales this month:

Whites:

2002	Monthelie (blanc), Domaine René Monnier, France	($25, orig. $37)
2002	Côtes du Rhône (blanc), E. Guigal, France	($8, orig. $12)

Reds:

2001	Montevina Barbera, Terra d'Oro, Amador County	($10, orig. $15)
2003	Rosé, Tablas Creek Vineyard, Paso Robles	($10, orig. $20)
2002	Monthelie, Paul Garaudet, France	($27, orig. $40)
2000	Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir, Waipara, New Zealand	($30, orig. $45)
2001	Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva, Fabrizio Bianchi, Italy	($15, orig. $21)