Wine Diary - July 2009


2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, Tête de Cru, Château-Fuissé, France
All the components of a fine white burgundy are there, along with a rave review, but the intensity seemed a bit subdued with a meal of grilled salmon. There's the good acidity with the right amount of oak, and a fairly long taste. It's more of an elegant than powerhouse wine. Close-out price $28; regular price $38.
Rating: Good ++
2006 Londer Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
A bit of orange in the color is surprising for such a young wine. There is some complexity from the apparently premature aging, as well as a port-like character and some alcohol heat. Medium-bodied, with a fairly long taste. The aroma suggest raspberries. Close-out price $25; regular price $40.
Rating: Very Good -
2000 Rosemount Estate Syrah, Balmoral, McLaren Vale, Australia
Dark and full-flavored, with some sediment. Intense, warm blackberry fruit with some clove spice, depth and complexity, and a long taste. There's mild tannin and sufficient acidity. Top-of-the-line offering from Rosemount, denoted by "syrah" rather than "shiraz". Every sip a flavor explosion, but a bit much for some food. Close-out price $22; regular price $32.
Rating: Very Good +
2005 Pinot Bianco, Jermann, Venezia Giulia
Superb balance and a long taste, with the acidity to support varietal fruit. Medium-bodied with depth and some complexity. A very fine wine to sip and savor. Close-out price $17; regular price $34.
Rating: Very Good +
2006 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey
Morgan seems to have kept to the same reliable style of sauvignon blanc: this one has a solid dose of vanillin oak to go with good acidity in a bordeaux-like package, though not quite as balanced. No austerity here - medium-bodied with good length. A very good deal at a close-out price $7; regular price $10.
Rating: Good ++
2006 Argyle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Not too much charm here: there's neither the perfume of a California style nor the acidity and firmness of a burgundy. Overall, the wine seems a bit tired, with perhaps wood from old barrels adding an off component. There's moderate intensity and length, with a moderately deep color. It may be that I just don't like the Argyle style that much, because my notes on various vintages seem fairly consistent. Close-out price $21; regular price $29.
Rating: Good (+)
Wines tasted on a Saône-Rhône river cruise, either on the boat or in on-shore tastings. I didn't keep track of the wines as carefully as I usually do, but here are the impressions:
2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Tiare du Pape, Maison Bouachon, France
Tasted at the winery in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Very nice cherry/raspberry character without any heaviness. There was a purple tinge at the edge, some tannin, very good acidity, and a fairly long, lovely taste with some spice components. Still young and should age a few years. Winery shop price 25 euros.
Rating: Very Good
2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Tiare du Pape, Maison Bouachon, France
Also tasted at the winery, this wine was fully mature, with a bit of orange color, mild tannins, good acidity, and the complexity that comes with age of a good wine. Long complex flavors. Like the 2006, not at all heavy or fleshy. We bought a bottle to have with the last dinner on the boat that evening. Winery shop price 32 euros.
Rating: Very Good +
2006 Coste Rouge, Château La Colombière, non filtré, Fronton, France
Flavorful and somewhat fleshy, with a deep color. Good acidity and a bit of tannin in a raspberry package. Good intensity and moderate length, without much in the way of complexity. Shipboard price 33 euros.
Rating: Good ++
2005 (2006?) Pernand-Vergelesses, Dubreuil-Fontaine, France
Described as being relatively light to accompany a dish that would profit from it, that turned out to be so. There was some nice PN aroma, a light color, and fairly high acidity. Intensity and length were moderate. Shipboard price 37 euros.
Rating: Good +
1998 Pommard "Les Tavannes", Domaine C. Lescure, France
The last wine in the tasting at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune. Assuredly in the French terroir style, with very good acidity, tannins now well-resolved, some perfume in the aroma, medium-bodied with cherry fruit but not much complexity. Fairly long taste. Price 24.80 euros.
Rating: Very Good -
2007 Chenas, Domaine Granger, France
Firm structure with some strawberry but less of the charm that many beaujolais have. Good acidity, moderate intensity and length. Tasted at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune - price 10.60 euros.
Rating: Good +
2006 Mâcon Ige, "Château London", Domaine Fichet, France
Good clean wine with mild chardonnay character; probably has not seen much wood, good acidity; moderately long taste. Tasted at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune - price 12.00 euros.
Rating: Good +
2007 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Larue, France
Aligoté has come a long way since it was a thin acidic wine best used as the base for kir. This one has some character and a bit of depth, still very good acidity, and moderate length. Tasted at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune - price 7.80 euros.
Rating: Good ++

2005 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Substantial dark raspberry/cherry fruit with lovely aroma, depth of flavor, good acidity, and a touch of firmness from mild tannin and wood. There's a bit of clove complexity as well. Long taste that makes every sip enjoyable. Close-out price $22; regular price $33.
Rating: Very Good +
2004 Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaumes, Lamblin & Fils, France
Befitting a chablis, there's good acidity, some flintiness, a little oak, along with a touch of dried herbs. Medium-bodied, with a fairly long taste. Close-out price $24; regular price $32.
Rating: Good ++
2003 Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa Valley
Clearly Californian in style rather than Italianate chianti: lots of cherry fruit, some tannin and a bit much wood, which gave it a kind of corkiness character. Acidity was moderate. Flavorful, with a fairly long taste, but not too complex. The 1998 version was more impressive. Close-out price $12; regular price $15.
Rating: Good +

Red-tag close-out sales this month:
Whites:
2005 Semillon, Hobbs, Barossa, Australia
[An Aussie sticky with blacked-out text probably hiding "sauternes"]
($14, orig. $40)
[Half-bottle]
2004 Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaumes, Lamblin & Fils, France ($24, orig. $32)
2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, Tête de cru, Château-Fuissé, France ($24, orig. $32)
2006 Terlaner Classico, Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige, Italy ($15, orig. $20)
2007 Pinot Grigio, Graffigna Centenario, San Juan, Argentina ($8, orig. $12)
2005
2006
Jermann Pinot Bianco, Venezia Giulia, Italy ($17, orig. $34)
2006 Côtes de Tablas Blanc, Tablas Creek Vineyards, Paso Robles ($16, orig. $23)
2006 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey ($7, orig. $10)


Reds:
2004 Shiraz, Number One Constitution Road, Robertson Winery, South Africa ($19, orig. $32)
2000 Syrah, Balmoral, Rosemount Estate, McLaren Vale, Australia ($22, orig. $32)
2006 Amisfield Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand ($29, orig. $42)
2004 Bearboat Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($15, orig. $22)
2006 Argyle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($21, orig. $29)
2003 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, Parsons' Ridge, Willamette Valley ($26, orig. $37)
2002 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Reserve, Carneros ($19, orig. $25)
2005 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($24, orig. $34)
2006 Londer Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($25, orig. $40)
2003 Vacqeyras, Pierrelongue, Maison Bouachon, Fance ($15, orig. $19)
2004 Chianti Classico Riserva, Croce, Terrabiance, Italy ($24, orig. $32)
2004 Tres Ojos Rosé, Calatayud, Spain ($5, orig. $10)



Last updated 8/6/09

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