2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, Tête de Cru, Château-Fuissé, France
All the components of a fine white burgundy are there, along with a rave review, but the intensity seemed a bit subdued with a meal of grilled salmon. There's the good acidity with the right amount of oak, and a fairly long taste. It's more of an elegant than powerhouse wine. Close-out price $28; regular price $38.2006 Londer Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley
Rating: Good ++
A bit of orange in the color is surprising for such a young wine. There is some complexity from the apparently premature aging, as well as a port-like character and some alcohol heat. Medium-bodied, with a fairly long taste. The aroma suggest raspberries. Close-out price $25; regular price $40.2000 Rosemount Estate Syrah, Balmoral, McLaren Vale, Australia
Rating: Very Good -
Dark and full-flavored, with some sediment. Intense, warm blackberry fruit with some clove spice, depth and complexity, and a long taste. There's mild tannin and sufficient acidity. Top-of-the-line offering from Rosemount, denoted by "syrah" rather than "shiraz". Every sip a flavor explosion, but a bit much for some food. Close-out price $22; regular price $32.2005 Pinot Bianco, Jermann, Venezia Giulia
Rating: Very Good +
Superb balance and a long taste, with the acidity to support varietal fruit. Medium-bodied with depth and some complexity. A very fine wine to sip and savor. Close-out price $17; regular price $34.2006 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey
Rating: Very Good +
Morgan seems to have kept to the same reliable style of sauvignon blanc: this one has a solid dose of vanillin oak to go with good acidity in a bordeaux-like package, though not quite as balanced. No austerity here - medium-bodied with good length. A very good deal at a close-out price $7; regular price $10.2006 Argyle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Rating: Good ++
Not too much charm here: there's neither the perfume of a California style nor the acidity and firmness of a burgundy. Overall, the wine seems a bit tired, with perhaps wood from old barrels adding an off component. There's moderate intensity and length, with a moderately deep color. It may be that I just don't like the Argyle style that much, because my notes on various vintages seem fairly consistent. Close-out price $21; regular price $29.Wines tasted on a Saône-Rhône river cruise, either on the boat or in on-shore tastings. I didn't keep track of the wines as carefully as I usually do, but here are the impressions:
Rating: Good (+)2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Tiare du Pape, Maison Bouachon, France
Tasted at the winery in the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Very nice cherry/raspberry character without any heaviness. There was a purple tinge at the edge, some tannin, very good acidity, and a fairly long, lovely taste with some spice components. Still young and should age a few years. Winery shop price 25 euros.2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, La Tiare du Pape, Maison Bouachon, France
Rating: Very Good
Also tasted at the winery, this wine was fully mature, with a bit of orange color, mild tannins, good acidity, and the complexity that comes with age of a good wine. Long complex flavors. Like the 2006, not at all heavy or fleshy. We bought a bottle to have with the last dinner on the boat that evening. Winery shop price 32 euros.2006 Coste Rouge, Château La Colombière, non filtré, Fronton, France
Rating: Very Good +
Flavorful and somewhat fleshy, with a deep color. Good acidity and a bit of tannin in a raspberry package. Good intensity and moderate length, without much in the way of complexity. Shipboard price 33 euros.2005 (2006?) Pernand-Vergelesses, Dubreuil-Fontaine, France
Rating: Good ++
Described as being relatively light to accompany a dish that would profit from it, that turned out to be so. There was some nice PN aroma, a light color, and fairly high acidity. Intensity and length were moderate. Shipboard price 37 euros.1998 Pommard "Les Tavannes", Domaine C. Lescure, France
Rating: Good +
The last wine in the tasting at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune. Assuredly in the French terroir style, with very good acidity, tannins now well-resolved, some perfume in the aroma, medium-bodied with cherry fruit but not much complexity. Fairly long taste. Price 24.80 euros.2007 Chenas, Domaine Granger, France
Rating: Very Good -
Firm structure with some strawberry but less of the charm that many beaujolais have. Good acidity, moderate intensity and length. Tasted at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune - price 10.60 euros.2006 Mâcon Ige, "Château London", Domaine Fichet, France
Rating: Good +
Good clean wine with mild chardonnay character; probably has not seen much wood, good acidity; moderately long taste. Tasted at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune - price 12.00 euros.2007 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Larue, France
Rating: Good +
Aligoté has come a long way since it was a thin acidic wine best used as the base for kir. This one has some character and a bit of depth, still very good acidity, and moderate length. Tasted at "Le Cellier de la Cabiote" in Beaune - price 7.80 euros.
Rating: Good ++
2005 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Substantial dark raspberry/cherry fruit with lovely aroma, depth of flavor, good acidity, and a touch of firmness from mild tannin and wood. There's a bit of clove complexity as well. Long taste that makes every sip enjoyable. Close-out price $22; regular price $33.2004 Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaumes, Lamblin & Fils, France
Rating: Very Good +
Befitting a chablis, there's good acidity, some flintiness, a little oak, along with a touch of dried herbs. Medium-bodied, with a fairly long taste. Close-out price $24; regular price $32.2003 Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese, Napa Valley
Rating: Good ++
Clearly Californian in style rather than Italianate chianti: lots of cherry fruit, some tannin and a bit much wood, which gave it a kind of corkiness character. Acidity was moderate. Flavorful, with a fairly long taste, but not too complex. The 1998 version was more impressive. Close-out price $12; regular price $15.
Rating: Good +
Red-tag close-out sales this month:Whites:
2005 Semillon, Hobbs, Barossa, Australia
[An Aussie sticky with blacked-out text probably hiding "sauternes"]($14, orig. $40)
[Half-bottle]2004 Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaumes, Lamblin & Fils, France ($24, orig. $32) 2004 Pouilly-Fuissé, Tête de cru, Château-Fuissé, France ($24, orig. $32) 2006 Terlaner Classico, Cantina Terlan, Alto Adige, Italy ($15, orig. $20) 2007 Pinot Grigio, Graffigna Centenario, San Juan, Argentina ($8, orig. $12) 2005
2006Jermann Pinot Bianco, Venezia Giulia, Italy ($17, orig. $34) 2006 Côtes de Tablas Blanc, Tablas Creek Vineyards, Paso Robles ($16, orig. $23) 2006 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey ($7, orig. $10)
Reds:
2004 Shiraz, Number One Constitution Road, Robertson Winery, South Africa ($19, orig. $32) 2000 Syrah, Balmoral, Rosemount Estate, McLaren Vale, Australia ($22, orig. $32) 2006 Amisfield Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand ($29, orig. $42) 2004 Bearboat Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($15, orig. $22) 2006 Argyle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($21, orig. $29) 2003 Montinore Estate Pinot Noir, Parsons' Ridge, Willamette Valley ($26, orig. $37) 2002 Carneros Creek Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Reserve, Carneros ($19, orig. $25) 2005 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($24, orig. $34) 2006 Londer Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($25, orig. $40) 2003 Vacqeyras, Pierrelongue, Maison Bouachon, Fance ($15, orig. $19) 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva, Croce, Terrabiance, Italy ($24, orig. $32) 2004 Tres Ojos Rosé, Calatayud, Spain ($5, orig. $10)
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